Goldfish Not Looking So Good

GoggleHat

Member
I have a white ranchu that I have owned for the last year. He's never been the most active or imposing type of fish, but he's done well enough. Though I grew worried because he rarely moved from his corner of the tank. I figured it was likely because he was all alone, no other signs pointed to sickness, disease, or poor water conditions. So I got a new ranchu, one that is much more upbeat in personality.

After the mandatory quarantine period (3 weeks) w/ PraziPro, I put him in the new tank. After a day or so, the little white ranchu perked up and starting hanging out with the new guy. But I noticed that the white one is less likely to get to their food first, if at all. Today I noticed he has some red coloring near the gills (which may only be noticeable because of the white color?) and his fins have small, dark edges (but no signs of fraying or rotting)

If anyone has any answers or suggestions for me, I would REALLY appreciate it! I'm not sure what to do for him or what could be wrong.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
75g Discus Tank said:
He's not looking too good in this photo, but he's moved since then...

The tank size is 35 gallons
Temperature is about 75-80F
I haven't checked conditions in a while, but I have been keeping up with partial (30%) water changes each week and doing so has keep the conditions pretty normal.
So last I checked:
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0-2 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm

I'll try to test the water again today, but it will be difficult considering it's Mother's Day and I'm entertaining family...
 

75g Discus Tank

Member
Your tank isn’t cycled yet. You need to get that taken care of.

Also, try to turn the temp down to 72 degrees.

The isn’t working for me. Can you try another pic?
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
75g Discus Tank said:
Your tank isn’t cycled yet. You need to get that taken care of.

Also, try to turn the temp down to 72 degrees.

The isn’t working for me. Can you try another pic?
What do you mean it isn't cycled? It's not a new tank, I've had it running for over 2 years.
 

Goldiemom

Member
I’m afraid that I have to agree with 75G Discus. If it was cycled, it looks like you lost your cycle. Is your nitrite o or 2ppm? With goldfish, you should always be showing some nitrates unless you just completed a huge water change. I’d advise getting some Prime in there ASAP if you aren’t using it. Then check your water Parameters daily until you get 0, ammonia, o nitrites, and at least 5 nitrates.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
I’m afraid that I have to agree with 75G Discus. If it was cycled, it looks like you lost your cycle. Is your nitrite o or 2ppm? With goldfish, you should always be showing some nitrates unless you just completed a huge water change. I’d advise getting some Prime in there ASAP if you aren’t using it. Then check your water Parameters daily until you get 0, ammonia, o nitrites, and at least 5 nitrates.
Could someone please explain what you mean by it needing to be cycled? I've had it going for years with plants and I've only been having problems with the single fish, not the other one.

I performed another test and everything is pretty much the same except Nitrates are 5 ppm.

I also added some ice cubes and turned down the heater to bring the temperature down. It has gone from 79 or so to about 76, and hopefully will drop further down.

Goldiemom said:
I’m afraid that I have to agree with 75G Discus. If it was cycled, it looks like you lost your cycle. Is your nitrite o or 2ppm? With goldfish, you should always be showing some nitrates unless you just completed a huge water change. I’d advise getting some Prime in there ASAP if you aren’t using it. Then check your water Parameters daily until you get 0, ammonia, o nitrites, and at least 5 nitrates.
I only have PraziPro, Fluval, Epsom salts, and Ammo Lock. But I doubt any of those could help him. Would you suggest I get some Prime? Where can I buy it?
 

Goldiemom

Member
Any local fish store should have it. It will de-toxify the nitrates, ammonia, and nitrites until the tank gets cycled. That way, your fish won’t be poisoned. Use it daily when you do water changes. You can add some Seachem Stability also to put some beneficial bacteria back into the tank until it gets cycled. That will help jump start the cycle again. Keep us posted! The fish will be fine with the Prime in there.

If nitrates are 5, you may be cycled. Please read about the nitrogen cycle under Freshwater Beginner section under Fish Forum Topics. It will be in yellow.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
If nitrates are 5, you may be cycled. Please read about the nitrogen cycle under Freshwater Beginner section under Fish Forum Topics. It will be in yellow.
So I just say him drifting along at the top of the tank. He moved back down below, but I'm really concerned. Should I move him to a quarantine tank? Maybe add some PraziPro? I'm not sure, again, I have two fish and only one is having the problem. And as I stated before, I'm unsure if he's getting enough food as he's always been more skittish than the other one.
 

Discus-Tang

Member
Wait, why is there a heater??
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Discus-Tang said:
Wait, why is there a heater??
To prevent the tank from getting cold in the winter. Considering I'm still experiencing very cold days, the heater maintains the proper 70 degrees or so. Before installing the heater, it would often fall to 50 degrees
 

Discus-Tang

Member
GoggleHat said:
To prevent the tank from getting cold in the winter. Considering I'm still experiencing very cold days, the heater maintains the proper 70 degrees or so. Before installing the heater, it would often fall to 50 degrees
I see.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Discus-Tang said:
...You wouldn't happen to have any helpful advice here, would you?

75g Discus Tank said:
Your tank isn’t cycled yet. You need to get that taken care of.

Also, try to turn the temp down to 72 degrees.

The isn’t working for me. Can you try another pic?
Do you still have any advice that could help here?
 

75g Discus Tank

Member
Just WCs constantly. This will make the water safe for the fish.

25% daily should be good.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
75g Discus Tank said:
Just WCs constantly. This will make the water safe for the fish.

25% daily should be good.
Do that until the fish seems okay? Or are you saying do it every day all the time, because that doesn't sound right for a 35 gallon tank with two fish, several plants, and a filter. Wouldn't it eventually eliminate nitrates completely?
 

75g Discus Tank

Member
GoggleHat said:
Do that until the fish seems okay? Or are you saying do it every day all the time, because that doesn't sound right for a 35 gallon tank with two fish, several plants, and a filter. Wouldn't it eventually eliminate nitrates completely?
You need to do daily WCs until you don't have nitrites anymore and you have some nitrates.

You could do it every other day though.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
75g Discus Tank said:
You need to do daily WCs until you don't have nitrites anymore and you have some nitrates.

You could do it every other day though.
I have no nitrites right now. I don't believe I've ever had them in this tank.

Seriously, I really need some advice. Again, this is a problem with a single fish, all water conditions are ideal and the other fish is perfectly fine. The weaker fish has red around the gills and fins with dark edges. It also isn't moving as much as the other one and earlier today was floating around the water's surface.

I'm sorry, but I'm really worried and frustrated, and I'm not receiving any advice to what I should do now. Should I quarantine it or not?

My last thread now seems to be ignored... My small, white ranchu is acting weakly, whereas my other ranchu in the same tank is fine. The white one has red around the gills and dark edges to its fins, neither did it have before.

The tank temperature is 75 F
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm
PH - 6.0

Here is the (I had to use a hosting site which for some reason won't work here):


Seriously, I am very worried, I don't want to lose this fish, I've had it for over a year
 

Goldiemom

Member
I replied to your other thread earlier. So have others. Please, try to keep your threads together as it gets very confusing. I understand you are worried but we are here to help. You don’t seem to want to accept the advice that has been offered. Starting another thread is only going to get people frustrated and we will give up on trying to help.

You keep asking for advice but your not taking any that is offered.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
I replied to your other thread earlier. So have others. Please, try to keep your threads together as it gets very confusing. I understand you are worried but we are here to help. You don’t seem to want to accept the advice that has been offered. Starting another thread is only going to get people frustrated and we will give up on trying to help.
What do you mean? I already responded to each person in the last thread, no one offered an actual solution except for you about the Prime. No one answered my followup questions either.

Goldiemom said:
You keep asking for advice but your not taking any that is offered.
Again, no one has given me answers and all the advice has been regarding tank conditions which I have confirmed have no problem. Conditions are fine, it doesn't need to be cycled, temperature is fine, the other fish is fine, it just the one fish that has problems and I'm scared because I really care about it .I keep asking about the quarantine, no one has responded.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
A cycled tank means that ammonia has been converted to nitrites, which has been converted to nitrates, which is then removed by water changes. Having any sign of ammonia or nitrite can be dangerous if not lethal in higher doses. When you added the second goldfish, you added too much ammonia that your cycle couldn’t process it fast enough and your nitrites built up. By doing water changes you can lower it to a much safer point.

That’s what it sounds like to me, is either ammonia or nitrite poising from an tank that is not fully cycled. Quarantining won’t help if you don’t have another cycled filter. Prime detoxifies ammonia (and I’m pretty sure nitrite) as well as any chlorine in tap water. That and water changes are your best bet until your cycle can catch up.
 

Goldiemom

Member
I encouraged you to read about the nitrogen cycle. I answered your question regarding where to get Prime and suggested you add some Seachem Stability. Both 75Discus and I advised you to do water changes daily until your tank cycles. I’m not sure what you are looking for. We are trying to help. We do care.

2211Nighthawk said:
A cycled tank means that ammonia has been converted to nitrites, which has been converted to nitrates, which is then removed by water changes. Having any sign of ammonia or nitrite can be dangerous if not lethal in higher doses. When you added the second goldfish, you added too much ammonia that your cycle couldn’t process it fast enough and your nitrites built up. By doing water changes you can lower it to a much safer point.

That’s what it sounds like to me, is either ammonia or nitrite poising from an tank that is not fully cycled. Quarantining won’t help if you don’t have another cycled filter. Prime detoxifies ammonia (and I’m pretty sure nitrite) as well as any chlorine in tap water. That and water changes are your best bet until your cycle can catch up.
Here’s another person with the same advice. Please, accept our help and get your fish well.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
Can you get some better pictures of him? I saw the one on the last thread but do you have more? I’m gonna be cautious about this cause I’m not 100% sure. But my Goldie is also white, and his gills have always had a pink look to them, just because of his color. It just occurred to me, but the floating is a problem. Swim
Bladder issues and bloating usually loop back to overeating.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
A cycled tank means that ammonia has been converted to nitrites, which has been converted to nitrates, which is then removed by water changes. Having any sign of ammonia or nitrite can be dangerous if not lethal in higher doses. When you added the second goldfish, you added too much ammonia that your cycle couldn’t process it fast enough and your nitrites built up. By doing water changes you can lower it to a much safer point.

That’s what it sounds like to me, is either ammonia or nitrite poising from an tank that is not fully cycled. Quarantining won’t help if you don’t have another cycled filter. Prime detoxifies ammonia (and I’m pretty sure nitrite) as well as any chlorine in tap water. That and water changes are your best bet until your cycle can catch up.
But the nitrites didn't build up according to the test kit. It and ammonia have remained at 0 ppm and the new fish was added almost two months ago. Are you certain this could be the problem? I tested it today as well and both were 0 ppm while nitrate was 5 ppm

The fish keeps drifting and I'm worried it will get hurt, would it be a bad idea to put it in a Ziploc bag within the tank, by the surface to keep it in one place with smooth walls?

2211Nighthawk said:
Can you get some better pictures of him? I saw the one on the last thread but do you have more? I’m gonna be cautious about this cause I’m not 100% sure. But my Goldie is also white, and his gills have always had a pink look to them, just because of his color. It just occurred to me, but the floating is a problem. Swim
Bladder issues and bloating usually loop back to overeating.
It's really hard to get a good pic, but I can try right now. He's never had this much red, and he's gasping more. I wouldn't think it's overeating, I rarely see him eat... Originally I was concerned he may not be eating enough.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
If that’s what parameters are sitting at, that’s good. Might be on the tail end of a cycle hiccup.

What’s your filtering system look like? Gasping could be lack of oxygen, or even if he’s stressed if he’s being bullied. Goldfish can be jerks if they feel like it.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
If that’s what parameters are sitting at, that’s good. Might be on the tail end of a cycle hiccup.

What’s your filtering system look like? Gasping could be lack of oxygen, or even if he’s stressed if he’s being bullied. Goldfish can be jerks if they feel like it.




Here are some more photos I tried to get. My camera doesn't work well with the tank...

My filter is changed monthly, though it has picked up some stuff around the nozzle (or whatever the technical name is for the tube structure that takes in water.) I have a large air stone that provides a wall of bubbles that stretch along almost the width of the tank.

The photos I took should better show the dark edges to his fins...

Also, the Ziploc idea? What's your advice? I feel it would be safer, but I'm concerned about the oxygen.
 

wodesorel

Member
Tank conditions are always the first place to start - it is often the root of the problem, and if it isn't right then no amount of medication or quarantining is going to make a difference.

The reason why everyone is focusing on the conditions is that there are potential issues. You said 0-2 nitrites and 5 nitrates - any amount of nitrite means there are not enough beneficial bacteria in the system to handle the fish waste, and for goldfish who are notorious poop factories 5 nitrates would be on the low end of what would be expected if the bacteria were doing their job, unless you had just done a major water change. If the bacteria aren't doing their job properly, then the redness is from ammonia or nitrite poisoning and the "cure" is lots of water changes and monitoring the levels to make sure they stay in the safe range. It doesn't matter how long the tank is set up, crashes can happen for seemingly no reason.

Goldfish are coldwater fish, so heat can also adversely affect them. It's why there was such a strong reaction when you said you use a heater. 50 is tolerable for them, over 80 is not. Too much heat can stress out their bodies and lower their immune systems. Lowering the heat will help them deal with whatever is happening, possibly even allow them to heal on their own.

There are also individual tolerances in fish. Just because it is only one fish now does not mean you won't wake up to both in bad shape tomorrow or the next day. I know how tempting it is to think the others are fine so it has to be just one fish, but that is not always the case.
 

Rtessy

Member
I couldn't get the pic to work, any chance of you uploading it again? And when you say the edges of the fins are also dark, are they also red? Or a different color?
What kind of oxygenation do you have vs what did you have in the QT?
You may want to consider moving the lethargic fish back to QT since it's realtively new, if that happens to be an option.
I wouldn't treat with prazipro as it doesn't sound like parasites and you want to avoid using two medications at once this is just in case you have to medicate for something else
 

Goldiemom

Member
I am going to back out and let Nighthawk help you. Good luck and I hope everything works out for you and your fish. Let us know if you need anything else.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
What kind of filter? Does it have the cartridge or is everything individual.

Goldiemom said:
I am going to back out and let Nighthawk help you. Good luck and I hope everything works out for you and your fish. Let us know if you need anything else.
AK!! Don’t leave me!!
 

Goldiemom

Member
GoggleHat said:




Here are some more photos I tried to get. My camera doesn't work well with the tank...

My filter is changed monthly, though it has picked up some stuff around the nozzle (or whatever the technical name is for the tube structure that takes in water.) I have a large air stone that provides a wall of bubbles that stretch along almost the width of the tank.

The photos I took should better show the dark edges to his fins...

Also, the Ziploc idea? What's your advice? I feel it would be safer, but I'm concerned about the oxygen.
Don’t Change your filter unless it is falling apart. Just clean it in tank water. Otherwise, you’re throwing your beneficial bacteria out which will lose your cycle.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
wodesorel said:
Tank conditions are always the first place to start - it is often the root of the problem, and if it isn't right then no amount of medication or quarantining is going to make a difference.

The reason why everyone is focusing on the conditions is that there are potential issues. You said 0-2 nitrites and 5 nitrates - any amount of nitrite means there are not enough beneficial bacteria in the system to handle the fish waste, and for goldfish who are notorious poop factories 5 nitrates would be on the low end of what would be expected if the bacteria were doing their job, unless you had just done a major water change. If the bacteria aren't doing their job properly, then the redness is from ammonia or nitrite poisoning and the "cure" is lots of water changes and monitoring the levels to make sure they stay in the safe range. It doesn't matter how long the tank is set up, crashes can happen for seemingly no reason.

Goldfish are coldwater fish, so heat can also adversely affect them. It's why there was such a strong reaction when you said you use a heater. 50 is tolerable for them, over 80 is not. Too much heat can stress out their bodies and lower their immune systems. Lowering the heat will help them deal with whatever is happening, possibly even allow them to heal on their own.

There are also individual tolerances in fish. Just because it is only one fish now does not mean you won't wake up to both in bad shape tomorrow or the next day. I know how tempting it is to think the others are fine so it has to be just one fish, but that is not always the case.
Fancy goldfish need warmer then common/comet goldfish so where it’s at is good.
 

Jenoli42

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
AK!! Don’t leave me!!
I'll jump in!

Sorry, i'm not sure if I saw the first thread, but i'm confused by this one. so I'll ask a couple of questions to clear things up for me.

in the first post on this thread, the OP says the nitrates are 0ppm. in a later post, the OP says the nitrates are 5ppm. our advice changes depending on which one is the true and current result. is it currently oppm or currently 5ppm?

if the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0ppm, and the nitrates are 5ppm, then it sounds like the tank is cycled now? however, if the fish were in the tank when the ammonia and nitrite were higher, then that could have caused a swim bladder issue.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
Don’t Change your filter unless it is falling apart. Just clean it in tank water. Otherwise, you’re throwing your beneficial bacteria out which will lose your cycle.
I only mean the cartridges, it that what you mean as well?
 

Jenoli42

Member
Goldiemom said:
Don’t Change your filter unless it is falling apart. Just clean it in tank water. Otherwise, you’re throwing your beneficial bacteria out which will lose your cycle.
Couldn't agree more! if the OP is chucking out all the filter media every month, it means the tank needs to start cycling new every month. so do keep all the old media in your filter. just rinse it in a bucket of tank water if it gets dirty.
 

Discus-Tang

Member
GoggleHat said:
...You wouldn't happen to have any helpful advice here, would you?
I think it could be an ammonia burn. Do loads of partial water changes.
 

Jenoli42

Member
GoggleHat said:
I only mean the cartridges, it that what you mean as well?
Yes, i'm assuming the cartridges are what contain the filter media. so don't throw them away... that's where your good bacteria live
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
What kind of filter? Does it have the cartridge or is everything individual.
It has cartridges I change out monthly. It's an Aqueon QuietFlow 30 for 30-45 gallons
 

75g Discus Tank

Member
GoggleHat said:
It has cartridges I change out monthly. It's an Aqueon QuietFlow 30 for 30-45 gallons
The cartridges hold the cycle. That’s where the vast majority of the bacteria is. As stated many times above, do not throw them away. Just rinse them lightly in tankwater.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Jenoli42 said:
Yes, i'm assuming the cartridges are what contain the filter media. so don't throw them away... that's where your good bacteria live
Then I'm incredibly confused... Aren't I supposed to change filter cartridges after they've become all scummy? What should I do then?

Jenoli42 said:
I'll jump in!

Sorry, i'm not sure if I saw the first thread, but i'm confused by this one. so I'll ask a couple of questions to clear things up for me.

in the first post on this thread, the OP says the nitrates are 0ppm. in a later post, the OP says the nitrates are 5ppm. our advice changes depending on which one is the true and current result. is it currently oppm or currently 5ppm?

if the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0ppm, and the nitrates are 5ppm, then it sounds like the tank is cycled now? however, if the fish were in the tank when the ammonia and nitrite were higher, then that could have caused a swim bladder issue.
The ammonia and nitrite were never high, I may have just mixed up nitrite and nitrate in the first post before. Nitrates have been 0 ppm
Nitrites are 0 ppm

75g Discus Tank said:
The cartridges hold the cycle. That’s where the vast majority of the bacteria is. As stated many times above, do not throw them away. Just rinse them lightly in tankwater.
Does that mean I should never throw away filter cartridges? Just rinse them? But does that relate to this exact problem?
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
GoggleHat said:
Does that mean I should never throw away filter cartridges? Just rinse them? But does that relate to this exact problem?
Yes. That bacteria that converts everything? It lives in that filter cartridge. Give it a good rinse and scrub in tank water (DONT use tap) and then replace it. If it starts getting really bad, you can cut the floss off (the white stuff) put a new cartridge in, and stuff the old floss in behind it. Not only does it keep your cycle (which goes though a major hiccup every time you throw it out) it saves a ton of money on new cartridges.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Okay, so confirming this:
I need to keep water conditions the way they are now, being:
Ammonia - 0 ppm (which I was certain of)
Nitrites - 0 ppm (which I was also sure of)
Nitrates - 5 ppm or so?

I should not change the cartridge every month, just rinse it out when it needs to be (with only tank water or could clean water be fine?). When should I change the cartridge for the 35 gallon tank?

And I should add Prime to help the water? Or do you think it should be fine with the conditions as they are?

Are we certain these things could help my fish right now? I'm not sure why it's only the one fish that has problems, not the other... Is there anything I can do for him right this moment? I won't be able to get Prime until tomorrow.

2211Nighthawk said:
Yes. That bacteria that converts everything? It lives in that filter cartridge. Give it a good rinse and scrub in tank water (DONT use tap) and then replace it. If it starts getting really bad, you can cut the floss off (the white stuff) put a new cartridge in, and stuff the old floss in behind it. Not only does it keep your cycle (which goes though a major hiccup every time you throw it out) it saves a ton of money on new cartridges.
Regarding the tap water, not even if it's well water with no ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, a decent ph, and no added chemicals?

Also, what white stuff? The actual white covering around it? So I cut that entire sheet off the plastic?
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
GoggleHat said:
Regarding the tap water, not even if it's well water with no ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, a decent ph, and no added chemicals?

Also, what white stuff? The actual white covering around it? So I cut that entire sheet off the plastic?
Well water changes things, I’m not sure about that. But to be better safe then sorry I suggest it. When I do water changes, I just swish it in that water cause all the gunk I sucked up stays at the bottom of the pail. The floss, yes. That’s what you want to keep. The cartridge I would rinse monthly if not more often, but it doesn’t need to be completely replaced often. I have filters with customizable inserts and I don’t change them for months because I just rinse them off. The floss I do more often just cause it can get nasty with my tank.

Your plan sounds great cause honesty? It’s a little pathetic in a good way how much daily water changes can make a difference. He dosen’t look bad, not enough for meds, and sometimes, one fish is just hardier then another. Weird things happpen.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
Well water changes things, I’m not sure about that. But to be better safe then sorry I suggest it. When I do water changes, I just swish it in that water cause all the gunk I sucked up stays at the bottom of the pail.

Your plan sounds great cause honesty? It’s a little pathetic in a good way how much daily water changes can make a difference. He dosen’t look bad, not enough for meds, and sometimes, one fish is just hardier then another. Weird things happpen.
Okay, thank you. Is it a good idea to have him in the Ziploc, like I was asking before? I don't know if you caught that question. How much and for how long should I change the water each day? Normally I just stuck to a 1/3 change once a week.
 

2211Nighthawk

Member
GoggleHat said:
Okay, thank you. Is it a good idea to have him in the Ziploc, like I was asking before? I don't know if you caught that question. How much and for how long should I change the water each day? Normally I just stuck to a 1/3 change once a week.
I would not, not something solid like a ziplock. A breeder basket or even a big net is better. I’d just be too parinoid about water parameters going all over the place. I personally do 50% daily on my goldfish (he’s in quarantine) I’ve also gotten permission to spike the water bill. Because daily water changes are usually done when a fish is sick, usually more is done. *I’d* say 50% but it can be anywhere from 25-90% in a drastic case.
 

Jenoli42

Member
GoggleHat said:
Nitrates have been 0 ppm
Nitrites are 0 ppm
I know you were trying to clear things up for me, but you wrote 0ppm for both and then below wrote "5ppm or so" for nitrates.

i'm just going to assume you mean 5ppm nitrates.

if you're currently at ammon 0, nitrIte 0, nitrAte around 5 then your water is not currently harming your fish. but if ammonia or nitrite were above 0 with your currently sick fish in your water, then that may well have caused the problem. swim bladder can be caused by poor water quality in the tank or things like constipation.

does your sick fish have white stringy poo? is it bloated? if you see white stringy poo and your fish is a bit bloated, it may simply be constipated. in which case, the treatment is to boil/blanch a pea, peal the skin off, soak it in garlic and try to see if your fish will eat.

if that's not the problem, here's all of the stuff I found about swim bladder

this guy's channel is helpful but sadly not if the problem is swim bladder because the procedure he describes can only be done by a fish vet.


here's another video describing how and when to use salt to help your fish:


keep in mind that if your other fish is fine, you may not want to do this unless you have another cycled quarantine/hospital tank.

I also found this. you should make sure you think your fish has a swim bladder problem before doing any of the treatments that you might find online or in these resources.
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
2211Nighthawk said:
I would not, not something solid like a ziplock. A breeder basket or even a big net is better. I’d just be too parinoid about water parameters going all over the place. I personally do 50% daily on my goldfish (he’s in quarantine) I’ve also gotten permission to spike the water bill. Because daily water changes are usually done when a fish is sick, usually more is done. *I’d* say 50% but it can be anywhere from 25-90% in a drastic case.
Would these large/frequent changes cause any problem with the other fish? I don't have a breeder basket or a large enough net... Do you have any suggestions for what I could use?
 

Goldiemom

Member
Do not change the cartridges monthly. Until you take the time to read up on The nitrogen cycle like I asked you to do earlier today, we may as well be speaking French to you. You don’t understand what we are talking about or the importance of the cycle. I have to admit, I find it a little odd that you said you had o nitrates until I said you should have at least 5ppm.. Then you changed it to having 5ppm nitrates. I am trying to figure out what you want from this forum. We welcome you here but can only help you if you take our advice and are honest with us. I feel like you are playing us all. If you don’t want the advice offered by experienced aquarists on here, then please let us help those who do. I have been trying to help you all day but you have not done anything that I advised you to do. Are you just playing us all here? We are a bunch of nice people but we can’t seem to help you or give you what you’re looking for. You argue more than you listen. Do you want dead fish or do you want the help? It’s as simple as that. Either take the advice we offer or quit asking for the help. I apologize for sounding a bit rough but this has been going on all day long. What test kit do you use to test your water?
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
Do not change the cartridges monthly. Until you take the time to read up on The nitrogen cycle, we may as well be speaking French to you. You don’t understand what we are talking about or the importance of the cycle. I have to admit, I find it a little offf that you said you had o nitrates until I said you should have at least 5ppm.. Then you changed it to having 5ppm nitrates. I am trying to figure out what you want from this forum. We welcome you here but can only help you if you take our advice and are honest with us. I feel like you are playing us all. If you don’t want the advice offered by experienced aquarists on here, then please let us help those who do. I have been trying to help you all day but you have not done anything that I advised you to do. Are you just playing us all here? We ate a bunch of nice people but we can’t seem to help you or give you what you’re looking for. You argue more than you listen. Do you want dead fish or do you want the help. It’s as simple as that. Either take the advice we offer or quit asking for the help. I apologize for sounding a bit rough but this has been going on all day long. What test kit do you use to test your water?
Things are fine now, this message doesn't help with anything. Obviously there has been a miscommunication, there's no point in throwing accusations at me. It only makes more problems.
 

Goldiemom

Member
What test kit do you use so we can help?
 
  • Thread Starter

GoggleHat

Member
Goldiemom said:
What test kit do you use so we can help?
API Freshwater Master Test Kit

For the record, I mixed up Nitrates and Nitrites in the beginning and both were an estimate. Then I checked the conditions with this test kit and found it was Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, and Nitrate: 5 ppm or so

But honestly, if you're just going to continue accusing me of things, or refusing to consider my immense fear for the life of my goldfish as a potential reason for why I am not accepting of advice that doesn't relate to my problem or has been offered due to misunderstanding, then please try to understand I really don't need that. Especially not while I'm under a great deal of stress for the life of my pet.
 

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