Found Some Stringy Poo In Two Of My Fish Help

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by Mizzom, Aug 17, 2019.

  1. Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Hi Guys - I have had my new 125G tank set up for about three months now, and have noticed that two of the three rainbow fish I have stringy poo - the third one does not. I have the levamisole to treat the whole tank. The fish I have :
    1 angelfish
    2 bala sharks
    6 rainbows
    6 clown fish
    4-5 glass cats
    3 cory cats
    1 BN pleco

    I tested my water two days ago before I did a water change, and it was 0-0-10/20. PH is 8ish. Tank temp - 77.5
    I am battling a bad case of detritus.
    During my water change, I noticed the outtake of my FX4 was very low compared to gushing out like it usually does. Since it's only been up and running for a few months, I was kind of surprised, but curious what it looked like inside. (I haven't been successful in getting my water crystal clear like my 40G tank). When I opened it up, the sponges were barely dirty at all, the purigen I put in there was barely used, but the polishing pad I put in there at startup was really dirty. So...not being quite sure of how much stuff this filter needs/uses, I kind of just stuffed stuff in there (I know, I know), probably not the best thing to do. I stuffed a chemi-pure elite in there too in order to try and clear the water up, and it's only gotten worse! Probably because I've got stuff in there all wrong.
    Oh, and I watched the video from the pond guru and did what he suggested by putting some Eheim Mech(?) in the outside bottom of the filter (in the ditch).

    So, I need to open the filter up again to get the carbon out of there so I can treat the tank with levamisole. Can someone suggest how I stack the filter? Should I remove the thin black pad that came in the very bottom of the filter?
    The first pic shows the one rainbow that has normal poo, the second pic is one that has the stringy white poo.
    In the third pic, look at the top of the water. There's this stuff that I 'think' may be detritus? It's only at that end of the tank because the wave make pushes it all down to that end. (Don't laugh at my ship, that's where the loaches and BN pleco live - they love it)!
    One last thing, I bought a UV sterilizer, the green killing machine. It got a lot of good reviews. I haven't opened it up yet, so want to know if it would do me any good in keeping the water clear and kill parasites/bacteria. Is there a better one anyone would recommend that is easy to use, like just putting it in the tank and plugging it in?
    I would appreciate any input/information/suggestions. Thanks!
    Fish pics 1.
    fish pics 2.fish pics 3.
     
  2. bettaf1sh 7789

    bettaf1sh 7789Valued MemberMember

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    I would personally quarantine and medicate only the ones showing symptoms of internal parasites, but I don’t think treating the entire tank should hurt. Did you feed anything that could cause stringy poop? This was in my saltwater tank, but once I fed mysis and it caused my clowns to have white stringy poop, immediately after I stopped feeding the mysis, the white stringy poop went away. Just something to consider.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Thanks so much for getting back to me. I thought about just quarantining the two fish that I 'saw' have stringy poo, but then thought about what if it's in the tank, or if any other fish have it and I don't know it.
    As far as food goes, I haven't fed these fish any frozen bloodworms or anything like that. I feed New Life Spectrum, Wardley and Omega One shrimp pellets, and some Omega One flakes for the little guys. Oh, I give them some bug bites for tropical fish once in a while too.

    I just got done doing a water change. Will have to wait until tomorrow to check out the filter, get the carbon out and medicate the tank.
     
  4. Momgoose56

    Momgoose56Fishlore VIPMember

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    In my fx5, I stack media from top tray down like this:
    1.top tray
    Biomedia- ceramic beads+plastic bioballs on bottom
    Coarse media sponge in top
    2. Middle tray
    Bio media- ceramic beads on bottom
    Medium coarse media floss on top
    3. Bottom tray
    Biomedia- ceramic beads on bottom
    Medium coarse media floss on top.
    When I add carbon, I use high quality carbon and rinse it really well in a strainer under running water, put it in a mesh bag, then place it spread out flat on top of the bio media in the very bottom tray with the coarse media mesh on top of that.
    Water filters through the fx series canisters from the top down. Coarse debris is caught in the top basket sponge and travels down through the other trays, ending up with media in the bottom tray exposed to the water the longest before being pumped back into the tank. This bottom tray is where you want your chemical media: carbon, resins for nitrate removal, water polishers etc.
    I put some biomedia in all my trays as well as a mechanical filter (floss or sponge) on top of the contents of each tray. The floss and sponges are critical for removing coarse to fine particulate matter (fish poop, sand, dust and other insoluble detritus) from tank water and also provide additional surface area for bacteria growth.
    You said your outflow from your filter isn't as strong as it had been, right? Make sure that your intake and outflow hoses from the filter up to the tank do not sag at all. They should travel in a straight, gradual incline from the valve hookup on the filter to where the hose curves over the rim of the tank to attach to the tubing in the tank. If there is any sag at all, water flow can be compromised. The hoses can be trimmed to remove any excess length. Note: I always keep an extra hose or two, rubber connectors, and parts for all my tank filters just in case of damage, leaks, failures or wear and tear.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019
  5. OP
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    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Thank you so very much for your input. I know I have it stacked wrong. I will take it apart tomorrow and redo it. I do have biomedia in both trays. The very top tray has that black course sponge that it came with. I'm not exactly sure if the bottom tray came with a sponge on top of the media, but it came with a thin black pad. Not sure what that is for. I only have two trays with the FX4, so the bottom tray I'll put the bio media on the bottom, then coarse media sponge on top of that. Q: Where do people put the white polishing pads at? Purigen at? I'm assuming if you put the carbon in the bottom tray between bio media and sponge, that is where you would put the purigen? Can you please tell me what carbon you buy? Thanks.
    My son installed the filter for me and did an excellent job with the hoses, no sag at all. He set his up a few years ago, and did mine for me, so we're good there.
    Thanks again. I'm going to do this tomorrow.
     
  6. jdhef

    jdhefModeratorModerator Member

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    You may want to stop using the polishing pads. They are so fine, that they clog very quickly, and may need to be changed out every day or two.

    I believe internal parasites are contagious, so I would treat the entire tank, and not separate/quarantine. The best way to treat for internal parasites (if the fish are still eating) is with a medicated food.

    I'm not familiar with the FX4, but in my 306 I have three trays. I have the black sponges (the ones with "peaks" on the bottom) in the bottom tray. Then I have ceramic media in the middle tray and lastly in the top tray I have carbon and crushed coral.

    Best of luck!
     
  7. OP
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    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Thanks for reminding me about medicating the food. i do have the stuff to do that. I will give it a try for sure. And I think you are right about he polishing pads, because when I took apart my filter, the pad was really dirty and I didn't even take out the side sponges because they were hardly dirty at all. Makes sense. Thanks so much.
     
  8. RSababady

    RSababadyWell Known MemberMember

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    I like that idea. I use a pre-filter on the intake of one of my canister filters - this catches all the muck and thus I only open my canisters for cleaning every 6 months and is an easy clean without having to open the main filter unit. Don't want to hijack the post, but this is an idea to solving filters clogging up with fine polishing pads.
     
  9. Momgoose56

    Momgoose56Fishlore VIPMember

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    Puragen aand other chemical treatments and polishing pads in bottom tray. Black thin pad may be carbon embedded. Check your user manual. It should say there.

    Because water enters the the fx series filters from the top and moves down through the media (water from the tank hits the top tray first, dwells around the bottom basket last), the recommendation is to load trays so that bigger debris is caught in the top tray first and finer filtration is added to lower trays. The bottom tray (that's in the water longest and last) is where they recommend any chemical filtration be added.- like carbon, puragen, resins etc. as I listed above. I use the older fx5's in my big tanks. But all the fx series canisters are designed and stacked the same way--top down filtration, same order of media with + or - the number of internal baskets for media placement.

    If you placed the polishing pad in the top tray, it will get mucky and clog really fast. It belongs in the bottom tray. BUT, without a pre filter it will get mucky because that's its job-to filter out the tiniest particles that can cause duller, cloudier water, just before your water is returned to your tank-- hence the term "polishing" pad lol!
    Sorry @jdhef, I didn't use the "quote" feature again and stacked responses, I'm still working on getting better at that....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 18, 2019
  10. OP
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    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    You know, I have pre-filters on both my AC70's in my 40Breeder and love them. My water is crystal clear. I didn't know, but was wishing there is such a thing to go over the intake filter on the FX4. Where can one? Yep, my polishing pad was the whole reason my filter outtake was very slow. I probably had it in the wrong place too. I'm going to go and redo it now. I need to take the carbon out so I can put the levamisole in the tank. I'm pretty sure I need to do a huge water change 24 hours later, right?

    Thanks to all who are helping me along with this. I appreciate you all.
     
  11. nothreat33

    nothreat33New MemberMember

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    A sign of overfeeding
     
  12. richie.p

    richie.pFishlore VIPMember

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    On the intake of the fx4 take it out and the cage will split in two get some course sponge and fit inside the cage and snap back together, this will take out the big stuff before it reaches the outer sponges inside, I spoke to Richard regarding the stone in the outer ramp and he told me he didn't think it made much difference if it's in or out

    You can introduce these filter booster onto any fluval eheim, or similar filters allowing more room in the main filter for your Biological side, unfortunately due to the size of hose on the fx range it's not possible this is why we are using sponge in the intake pickup of the fx
     

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  13. Momgoose56

    Momgoose56Fishlore VIPMember

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    I tried a coarse sponge in the intake strainer cage of my fx5 (the cage strainer is the same as fx4) and it sucked partway up in the intake tube and really caused flow problems. Maybe one of those stiffer sponges, cut to fit would work better?
     
  14. Ronniethewitch

    RonniethewitchValued MemberMember

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    I don't think it's parasites. Their poo is stringy but it's not white. Looks like constipation and stress poops.

    Add: the first pic has pink poo (colour of flakes?) which is thick ...says constipated poo to me, and the second pic looks see through which says stress to me, rather than worms.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
  15. richie.p

    richie.pFishlore VIPMember

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    Some of the lads here were talking about the sponge they used I'll try and find the thread, i understand if the sponge is soft it will suck up the intake, this is what I use and very effective , don't look out of place in the tank ether, it's just a stocking
     

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  16. OP
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    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Yes, I have definitely been over feeding my fish. Don’t know why, I only fed my fish once a day in my 40 gallon tank. Since moving them to the 125, I was feeding twice a day, and yes, using flakes for the glass cats, and rummy nose tetras. I’m only going to feed once a day starting yesterday. I just worry about everyone getting enough. But thinking about it now, am sure it has contributed to my cloudy water along with the clogged polishing pad.
    I removed the polishing pad last night and replaced it with a course and a medium sponge along with a bag of purine.

    Richie, this is brilliant!! I’m definitely going to do that!!! Problem solved. thank you!

    I don’t know what they would be stressed about,really. I watch my fish a lot and don’t see any aggression or anything going on in the tank. My rule is, if I have a bully in my tank, he goes back to the LfS! I don’t want any bully’s in my tank. Perhaps feeding them twice a day was affecting them? What to give for constipation if that is it? I’m going to only feed them once a day from now on.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 19, 2019
  17. jdhef

    jdhefModeratorModerator Member

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    Maybe you watching them all the time is stressing them out. They probably feel like they can get away with any shenanigans. (man, the spellchecker got a workout on that word!)

    You could give them a blanched frozen pea with the skin removed and cut into bit size chunks. That will cure constipation if they will eat it. Much easier is to feed them daphnia if you can find it. Frozen would be best, but freeze dried would be good too (just rehydrate in tank water first).
     
  18. Ronniethewitch

    RonniethewitchValued MemberMember

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    Constipation can be stressful, so can bad water quality if they are living with lots of un-eaten food.

    Best cure for constipation is peas. I stick a few frozen peas in a dish of boiled water to thaw, then I take the shell off and put them through my garlic press befor feeding to the fish. (People food falls to the bottom faster so I try to make it small enough to be eaten before it hits the bottom). They really poop a lot after so a tank clean is necessary quite soon after.

    I really hope it gets sorted without too much discomfort.
     
  19. OP
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    Mizzom

    MizzomValued MemberMember

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    Hahaha! I’ll check the LFS tomorrow after work. If I can’t find daphnia,I’ll get some frozen peas and blanch them.
    Does daphnia work like peas/good for constipation?

    I put the levamisole in the tank last night, a lower dose for 100 gallons instead of 125. I will do a huge water change and put carbon in the filter to get the meds out, then feed them with peas.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 20, 2019
  20. jdhef

    jdhefModeratorModerator Member

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    Yes, daphnia does work like peas for constipation.
     
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