For Those Wanting To Get Into This Hobby, Please Read

The first and most important thing you should buy even before a freshwater aquarium is......

An aquarium water test kit!
(Well that and really know what the nitrogen cycle is)

Spend $25 and get a test kit for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Test your water you will use for your aquarium. You might be surprised by what you see.

You could find you have high pH, ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. At least you know what you are getting into better. You might be having a constant battle getting your tank right as a result. Your water may be so poor quality you can’t raise the fish you really wanted.

Now there is always a way around everything, including bad water, but it is two things you need. Time and money.

So, if you are thinking about starting. Do yourself a good favor, spend $25 and get a test kit and have at it.

 

Thanks!

 

YATT.

Great advice.

Can I go second?

Prime to declorinate your water since it has other properties too.

I could go on but 1 at a time?

 

and I would like to go third....

A water changing system be it a siphon into buckets or a python type system. When your water test says it is water change time you want to be prepared to get it done.

 

Hunter1 and mattgirl

I agree with you both. I guess my point of my thread I was trying to make is, buy a test kit first. Before anything. I mean even before you buy a tank. Don’t buy anything else, yet.

Test your tap water first. What are the readings? What does that mean for your fish？

Example. My tap water is bad. 1ppm ammonia and 5ppm nitrate. Ugh. Try raising nitrate sensitive fish in that!!!! Also my tap water is near 8 pH.

All bad signs for the fish I wanted. If I had know what I know now, I might not have started.

If I had only bought the test kit first, I would have only spent $25. I’m into the multiple hundreds by now with a decision to make.

Scrape it all and sell or spend another $300 to get my water right and manageable.

 

Our water has gotten steadily harder for 40 years. It is 8.8 pH here now! And some nitrates. . . so yes, consider your local water.

I was using bottled water when I just had two small aquariums. I have 9 now, and tap water is the only way since my RO system can't keep up with my needs.

I use a lot of stuff to soften the water for some fish, but I am switching to mainly Mbuna Cichlids.

Your alternative is to go saltwater, since changes are rare, and bottled water for top-offs is cheap, once the tank is full.

 

Hunter1 and mattgirl

I agree with you both. I guess my point of my thread I was trying to make is, buy a test kit first. Before anything. I mean even before you buy a tank. Don’t buy anything else, yet.

Test your tap water first. What are the readings? What does that mean for your fish？

Example. My tap water is bad. 1ppm ammonia and 5ppm nitrate. Ugh. Try raising nitrate sensitive fish in that!!!! Also my tap water is near 8 pH.

All bad signs for the fish I wanted. If I had know what I know now, I might not have started.

If I had only bought the test kit first, I would have only spent $25. I’m into the multiple hundreds by now with a decision to make.

Scrape it all and sell or spend another $300 to get my water right and manageable.

Ditto.
I took a tank and fish after their fishkeeper passed away unexpectedly.
Never thought about my water. And I had set up 2 more tanks before the water issue really reared it’s ugly head (I’m on a well so the water is subject to fluctuations). It’s a long story that I have in my tank thread but suffice to say, I’m in the same boat as you.
Right now I’m purchasing RO water from my LFS and adding equilibrium. My rstablished tanks are doing well now. Not ready to give up so I’m looking into a small RO system at home.

 

Hunter1 and mattgirl

I agree with you both. I guess my point of my thread I was trying to make is, buy a test kit first. Before anything. I mean even before you buy a tank. Don’t buy anything else, yet.

Test your tap water first. What are the readings? What does that mean for your fish？

Example. My tap water is bad. 1ppm ammonia and 5ppm nitrate. Ugh. Try raising nitrate sensitive fish in that!!!! Also my tap water is near 8 pH.

All bad signs for the fish I wanted. If I had know what I know now, I might not have started.

If I had only bought the test kit first, I would have only spent $25. I’m into the multiple hundreds by now with a decision to make.

Scrape it all and sell or spend another $300 to get my water right and manageable.

I understand now. If one knows the perimeters of their water first then they can make different decisions.

Some species of fish do have to have very specific perimeters. Knowing the numbers you have to work with helps when choosing what to do.

I know you have gone through a lot since starting in this hobby. I was thrilled for you once you finally got your tank cycled and am saddened to hear that you are even considering giving up now.

 

I understand now. If one knows the perimeters of their water first then they can make different decisions.

Some species of fish do have to have very specific perimeters. Knowing the numbers you have to work with helps when choosing what to do.

I know you have gone through a lot since starting in this hobby. I was thrilled for you once you finally got your tank cycled and am saddened to hear that you are even considering giving up now.

Ok, I have an engineer mind. This hobby is a little science and mostly art it seems. I'm frustrated I can't enjoy it as much and feel like I'm just working to keep everyone alive. I have not killed any fish since my first introduction where I had 8 and introduced them to quickly or I didn't realize I bought sick ones and I lost 3. I have since added 16 more fish (6 are not neons) and I haven't lost any, but I do have one that looks rough and I'm questioning if I see others with very light symptoms.

I just keep learning and wonder when the learning will slow and enjoyment can begin more. Problems and resolutions to date.
1. Stalled cycle b/c I was following known directions. Need to do some art to fix it (with your help!)
2. Stressed fish and killed 3
3. Added more plants and had snail explosion (seem to have under control, only a couple and I let them in there)
4. Hair algae problem (was overwhelmed, but doing better now, still not ideal in my mind)
5. Now, I have fish disease in one that can is affecting whole tank. Treating with medicine and trying to lower pH that I thought was fine, but API test isn't as accurate as I would like. 8.6 at the LFS!!!!!
6. Trying to figure out how to safely lower pH but it seems nothing is easy and many are patches that just take tons of maintenance. Easy solution is to buy a $300 RO/DI, but what happens after that.....just another issue? Another $100? I'm surprised by how much this 20G tank has cost me to day.

Do I enjoy the tank? Yes I do.
Part I don't enjoy is when the answers are not clear on what to do and I end up wiping out my tank inhabitants.

 

I am assuming that you determined that your one neon did in fact have a disease and it wasn't just a scuff from going somewhere it shouldn't have gone. If you posted more on your thread I didn't get a notification so missed it. I just popped over to that thread and see that the little guy is/did get worse and now understand your total frustration.

Hopefully replacing the filters will get the PH down and this will soon be behind you.

I feel so blessed to live where I do and have the water I do. I do have to contend with spikes in chlorine but thankfully a good water conditioner will take care of that.

 

Well since you suggest buying the water kit before actually buying the tank....would it not be even better to test your water for free at the fish store? I find it that in many places they do that for you.

Isn't there already a good beginner guide with what to do Before and After you got the first thank on this forum?

 

Our water has gotten steadily harder for 40 years. It is 8.8 pH here now! And some nitrates. . . so yes, consider your local water.

I was using bottled water when I just had two small aquariums. I have 9 now, and tap water is the only way since my RO system can't keep up with my needs.

I use a lot of stuff to soften the water for some fish, but I am switching to mainly Mbuna Cichlids.

Your alternative is to go saltwater, since changes are rare, and bottled water for top-offs is cheap, once the tank is full.

Saltwater is like burning money I hear!

I am assuming that you determined that your one neon did in fact have a disease and it wasn't just a scuff from going somewhere it shouldn't have gone. If you posted more on your thread I didn't get a notification so missed it. I just popped over to that thread and see that the little guy is/did get worse and now understand your total frustration.

Hopefully replacing the filters will get the PH down and this will soon be behind you.

I feel so blessed to live where I do and have the water I do. I do have to contend with spikes in chlorine but thankfully a good water conditioner will take care of that.

He got fuzzy on top and bottom and then I dosed the medicine 2 days ago (another $11). I need to dose again today. He looks better, but I'm worried I'm seeing the very beginnings on other fish. So medicine helps, but the cause of the disease exists and my fish will only get sick again. Likely pH...

Well since you suggest buying the water kit before actually buying the tank....would it not be even better to test your water for free at the fish store? I find it that in many places they do that for you.

Isn't there already a good beginner guide with what to do Before and After you got the first thank on this forum?

Agree. I thought about that also after I made this post.


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So, I just got back from LFS. My test at home is light brown pH test. Per API test kit that is like an 8. The test at LFS said 8.6!!!!!!! I had to take action, so I bought Fluvial Peat Granules and a media bag. I just put it in my HOB and hoping to reduce pH enough to give fish comfort while I decide what to do next. Yeaaaaah, another $20 with tax. Just put it on my tab will yah?

LFS guy confirmed that my thoughts on my local water are true.
He said Ammonia is about 1ppm and up to 2ppm in the area when the reservoir lakes turn over. He also confirmed <5ppm nitrates. Basically using tap water here is out of the question. Hooray!

They sell RO/DI water for $0.59/gal with a $10 deposit per 5gal tank you use. So 5gal per week is $6 x 52week = $312/year + gas for driving to store all the hassle....
This doesn't seem like a reasonable option at all, but maybe short term to avoid death if peat doesn't work. Would have to get my own RO/DI system. ompous:

He also said that he'd like me to bring in my RO water for them to test. He said they'd do all the tests (TDS, GH, KH, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and maybe one or two I don't know about. They should like me as much money as I have spent there.

So, I have a choice to make.
Should I go into the rabbit hole?
Should I come back to see the sun?

 

He got fuzzy on top and bottom and then I dosed the medicine 2 days ago (another $11). I need to dose again today. He looks better, but I'm worried I'm seeing the very beginnings on other fish. So medicine helps, but the cause of the disease exists and my fish will only get sick again. Likely pH...



Agree. I thought about that also after I made this post.


v
v
v
So, I just got back from LFS. My test at home is light brown pH test. Per API test kit that is like an 8. The test at LFS said 8.6!!!!!!! I had to take action, so I bought Fluvial Peat Granules and a media bag. I just put it in my HOB and hoping to reduce pH enough to give fish comfort while I decide what to do next. Yeaaaaah, another $20 with tax. Just put it on my tab will yah?

LFS guy confirmed that my thoughts on my local water are true.
He said Ammonia is about 1ppm and up to 2ppm in the area when the reservoir lakes turn over. He also confirmed <5ppm nitrates. Basically using tap water here is out of the question. Hooray!

They sell RO/DI water for $0.59/gal with a $10 deposit per 5gal tank you use. So 5gal per week is $6 x 52week = $312/year + gas for driving to store all the hassle....
This doesn't seem like a reasonable option at all, but maybe short term to avoid death if peat doesn't work. Would have to get my own RO/DI system. ompous:

He also said that he'd like me to bring in my RO water for them to test. He said they'd do all the tests (TDS, GH, KH, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and maybe one or two I don't know about. They should like me as much money as I have spent there.

So, I have a choice to make.
Should I go into the rabbit hole?
Should I come back to see the sun?

With my finances, I couldnt do it. Maybe you are better off then me. I'm not sure anyone can tell you what is best for you in that situation, you need to decide that for yourself, affordabilitly, time, desire.

If you decide you just can't manage it, can your lfs take the fish? I understand you feel responsible for their care, but not at the expense of your home and health if that is a concern.

 

Hm, I don't know the prices there but check if it is not cheaper to buy distilled water.

 

With my finances, I couldnt do it. Maybe you are better off then me. I'm not sure anyone can tell you what is best for you in that situation, you need to decide that for yourself, affordabilitly, time, desire.

If you decide you just can't manage it, can your lfs take the fish? I understand you feel responsible for their care, but not at the expense of your home and health if that is a concern.

Home and health are fine, thanks!
If I knew this would be the last significant thing I'd have to buy, I'd do it. But what is next?

Hm, I don't know the prices there but check if it is not cheaper to buy distilled water.

Yeah, distilled isn't good. It is actually bad for people and fish alike. It strips minerals out of your body basically. You'd die if you just drank distilled water.

 

Home and health are fine, thanks!
If I knew this would be the last significant thing I'd have to buy, I'd do it. But what is next?



Yeah, distilled isn't good. It is actually bad for people and fish alike. It strips minerals out of your body basically. You'd die if you just drank distilled water.

RO water is essentially distilled water and additives are added back in. Just manufacturing RO water is cheaper then buying gallons of distilled water from a store usually. (Unless youcan buy from LFS on the cheap)

Especially for shrimp keepers, RO water is used regularly so minerals can be added back in for the species of shrimp.

 

In my humble opinion your tap water isn't nearly as bad as you think. A fully cycled tank can process that amount of ammonia quickly and the nitrates are really not that bad. Say the ammonia reads 1. You do a 50% water change. That cuts the ammonia down to .5 Your cycle should process that amount of ammonia in just a few hours. If you have added prime then even that low amount of ammonia is neutralized long enough for your bacteria to remove it.

When you have them run the tests see if they have one that can tell the difference between ammonia and ammonium. It is possible that what you are seeing is ammonium and that is considered safer for fish.

 

Yeah, distilled isn't good. It is actually bad for people and fish alike. It strips minerals out of your body basically. You'd die if you just drank distilled water.

It's pretty much the same as RO water; both lack all minerals, which need to be added after in the form of salts.

 

What fishes do you keep exactly, besides Neons, and why do you think it's pH?

Edit: I agree with mattgirl. Your water isn't that bad. But what do I know? I never test my tap water.

 

What fishes do you keep exactly, besides Neons, and why do you think it's pH?

Edit: I agree with mattgirl. Your water isn't that bad. But what do I know? I never test my tap water.

I think it is columnaris disease. I made another post about that here and FL helped me there.
Help Is This A Disease Or Just Discoloration - Neon Tetra

My research said it likely comes from stressed conditions. I keep my tank clean (well vacuumed, scrubbed, etc.and my nitrates low). Temp is good for neons (74). 0, 0, <10 for ammonia cycle. GH 8, KH 3. pH is the outlier at 8.6! These fish like acidic conditions to start with and I'm basic.

I'm not sure what else it can be. It could be "overcrowding" I guess. I have 15 neons and 6 white clouds, 20 gallons.

Oh, the other fish are golden white cloud minnows. They seem to be tanks and oblivious to any ill effects. Look super healthy and active.

 

The first and most important thing you should buy even before a freshwater aquarium is......
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An aquarium water test kit!
(Well that and really know what the nitrogen cycle is)

Spend $25 and get a test kit for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Test your water you will use for your aquarium. You might be surprised by what you see.

You could find you have high pH, ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. At least you know what you are getting into better. You might be having a constant battle getting your tank right as a result. Your water may be so poor quality you can’t raise the fish you really wanted.

Now there is always a way around everything, including bad water, but it is two things you need. Time and money.

So, if you are thinking about starting. Do yourself a good favor, spend $25 and get a test kit and have at it.

I can't believe people didn't say the next thing: fish.

On a more serious note, which is better: test strips or actual bottles of PH up and down, and what set of test strips is a good one?

 

And if you can't afford a water test kit start a go fund me on facebook to raise the money and you will probably end up with enough money to buy several

 

Test strips are more expense per test and you really have to take care to store them properly. The liquid test kit is supposed to do around 800 tests and you could probably store then in your tank with no loss of accuracy. I wouldn't store the bottles in the tank but you get the idea.

 

YATT.

I agreed with the original post.

Without a water test kit, everything else is a guess.

Sorry for all of your issues. I have good water here, and at my home so I guess i’m Lucky.

But whether your cycling, adding fish or just maintaining what you have, the test kit is necessary.

 

Test strips are more expense per test and you really have to take care to store them properly. The liquid test kit is supposed to do around 800 tests and you could probably store then in your tank with no loss of accuracy. I wouldn't store the bottles in the tank but you get the idea.

I've heard varying reports on them. Some people say the liquid kits are better, while other people are firm believers in the strips.
Are you saying they are the same then? That there isn't a 'better' kit?

 

Moisture is the top killer of stripes. Even leaving the lid off for a few hours can effect them. I think that's why most like the liquid since you take all that out of the equation. That and the liquid kits give you that chemist factor.

 

Moisture is the top killer of stripes. Even leaving the lid off for a few hours can effect them. I think that's why most like the liquid since you take all that out of the equation. That and the liquid kits give you that chemist factor.

Thanks once again david1978 . The chemist factor lol xD

 

The API master test kit works for me.

If others are satisfied with strips, good for them.

I have confidence in the liquid test kit.

 

Strips do have a shorter shelf life.

 

Hunter1 and mattgirl

I agree with you both. I guess my point of my thread I was trying to make is, buy a test kit first. Before anything. I mean even before you buy a tank. Don’t buy anything else, yet.

Test your tap water first. What are the readings? What does that mean for your fish？

Example. My tap water is bad. 1ppm ammonia and 5ppm nitrate. Ugh. Try raising nitrate sensitive fish in that!!!! Also my tap water is near 8 pH.

All bad signs for the fish I wanted. If I had know what I know now, I might not have started.

If I had only bought the test kit first, I would have only spent $25. I’m into the multiple hundreds by now with a decision to make.

Scrape it all and sell or spend another $300 to get my water right and manageable.

Oh man, that's a tough decision and both probably feels like you're throwing away money not to mention you got into the hobby because you obviously like fish. I have no advice except it's probably something that everyone should be aware of as far as their own safety. We all assume our water is safe but then some days when I'm filling the buckets the smell of chlorine is much stronger than others and I wonder what the heck I'm putting into my own body and showering in. I wish you luck with your decision and that you make a decision you are comfortable with.

 

Oh man, that's a tough decision and both probably feels like you're throwing away money not to mention you got into the hobby because you obviously like fish. I have no advice except it's probably something that everyone should be aware of as far as their own safety. We all assume our water is safe but then some days when I'm filling the buckets the smell of chlorine is much stronger than others and I wonder what the heck I'm putting into my own body and showering in. I wish you luck with your decision and that you make a decision you are comfortable with.

So, I had a moment of frustration. (Well a few)
I really enjoy this hobby and staring at them swimming around is enjoyable. I and just hope this is the end of my major unexpected expenses. I do well enough to afford this hobby. In the long game a RODI system won’t break me. It’ll be here next Friday.

 

I agree with you, the API master test kit should be the first investment.

That’s why I posted #2 IMO.

You had already taken #1.