Fluval 405

Discussion in 'Freshwater Tank Equipment' started by jpc94513, Apr 11, 2010.

  1. jpc94513New MemberMember

    have a 60x19x20 w/ FLUVAL 405 filter .....couple live plants , 1 plecto ,and 1 unknown orange 6" crooked jawwed fish in it now (plan on couple oscars soon)... question is "should i have anything else?"filter wise or like air stones? (so dislike air stones) Tank and unknown fish given by a friend,the Fluval 405 ialready had-new unused.(filter it came with was a Marine something,hoses and unit leaked, and a weak little air stone)
     
  2. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Given you have live plants, lighting should also be a consideration.

    Re your filtration, it is probably adequate atm, but you want to be careful as you increase the population to ensure you don't 'over-run' the filter, but I would suggest you should be fine, so long as you don't overstock the tank.

    my 2c
     
  3. OP
    OP
    j

    jpc94513New MemberMember

    right on ryan , thanks for your input.

    when you say 'over-run',you mean over populating tank thus heavier cleaning for the filter(im thinking) , and that all makes sense.

    my main concern was oxygen and after doin some research, i understand the science part completely its just the "visual" part of not having to have a air stone (never been an air stone fan),so not seeing or hearing oxygen is only thing i keep getting caught up on.Thanks again man for your time.
     
  4. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    jpc,
    On the filtration side of things, there are varying opinions of what is necessary. Some people will advise a filter capable of turning over the water 3 times and hour, 4, 5 and 6 times an hour. e.g. I have a 70L tank, with a 440l/h filter (Eheim 2213 Canister), meaning my water is turned over approx 6 times an hour. I personally recommend at least 4 times an hour.

    Consider that in most rivers, the flow/turnover of the water is probably a lot higher.

    As you add to your population, the bio-load on the tank increases, meaning more waste that needs to be filtered, so by over-run, I am referring to the filter's beneficial bacteria colony size being able to handle the load. In general, the bigger the filter, the bigger the biological filter area, the more b/bacteria can live, the more waste they can handle in a given time. Hope that makes sense.

    You will get an idea of whether your filtration is handling the load by monitoring your ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte levels. Amm should always be 0, NitrIte 0, nitrAte 0-10ppm (plants require nitrAtes, so 5-10ppm would be fine)

    Regarding oxygen levels - your oxygen levels are affected by population and temperature. The higher the population, the higher the demand for oxygen from your fish. The higher the temperature, the less oxygen can be 'held' by the water. Air stones aren't necessary unless you find your fish 'gasping' for oxygen. i.e. faster gill rates, or going to the surface gasping for 'air'.

    Surface agitation is required for gas exchange, so if you position your filter return head near the surface, this should agitate the surface enough to facilitate gas exchange (getting more O2 back into the water). That said, plants require CO2 (carbon dioxide), and too much surface agitation will result in too much CO2 leaving the water. It's a fine balance ;)

    My advice, go without the air stone unless your fish indicate they need more oxygen.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2010
  5. OP
    OP
    j

    jpc94513New MemberMember

    Ryan,thanks again man.....i worry NO MORE over the oxygen! you have made all that wasnt clear- well,very clear!

    Now (lol) if you could lend me some more valuable time saving advice on the hardness of my water.(live outside city limits=well water) As hard as hard water can get.finally got down to almost perfect levels only by sub'ing in water via my 5 gallon drinking water jugs.looking back i should have filled the whole thing this way,cuz getting the hardness out has been,well you know what i mean.

    Question... come time to clean gravel ,(basic main.) how would YOU go about the process? I know (think i do) the answer but want to , have to hear it from a pro(you!)

    Thanks again man , you ROCK!
     
  6. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    I'm no Pro, I'm still learning more and more everyday ;)

    You've probably got two different topics here, one on hardness, and one on cleaning methods.

    I'd suggest first searching the forums for threads on both topics, and if you still don't get your answer, start a new topic/thread for the specific question. And there is also a number of threads that deal with Well water (for which I have no experience, I'm in Melbourne Aus, and our water has no hardness at all)

    Two reasons: 1st - it keeps this thread related, 2nd you'll get a much larger audience with a different heading, most members won't read this because it's about Fluval 405, whereas a heading of 'recommended gravel cleaning techniques' will attract more members to reply.

    HTH
     




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