Fishless Cycle with Fish Food?

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mattyluke

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Now that I'm hooked on being an aquarist, I went ahead and set up a 10 gallon tank I had in my garage from when I had an Iguna. I'm doing it right this time, fishless. By using the article on this website, I'm putting in a few flakes of food every 12 hours. My question is: what is a few? I've been dropping in about three (3). Is there any particular food I should use? Right now, I'm using Tetra Crisps. I started this on Saturday and don't have any test readings yet. Also, should water changes and vacuuming be done during the initial cycle?

Thank you,

Matt
 

shollia

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If you can, it would be best to try to get pure ammonia to use. With fish flakes, you can't really control how much ammonia you are putting into your water.
If you just wanna try flakes though. Use a net to put the flakes it.
Float a fish net or something in the tank and place the flakes into it. That way it's easy-peasy to clean up
Water changes... I don't think you have to do a water change at all when fishless cycling. Just make sure that when the tank is fully cycled, to do a large water change the day before you add in the fish.
 
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mattyluke

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Shollia, thank you very much for the prompt reply ;D. Do you know how I would be able to get pure ammonia? Is it to late to do that sinceI already started with flakes? I also put a tiny bit of gravel from my cycled tank to this one. As for the net, are you saying that I just need to dip the flakes in the water then remove them and that I shouldn't let the food hang out at the bottom? How many flakes should I use during each treatment>


Thanks again,

Matt
 

shollia

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Heh I meant that you should float the net in your water, and then place the flakes into it to let the food rot in the net. That way later on you wouldn't have to worry about the frustrating task of trying to clean out all the rotten flakes later on.... cause they'd already be in the net Like put part of it in the water, leave some of it out, that way the flakes won't float out of it.
That make any sense? lol

I'm really not sure how many flakes to use though. I would just do whatever fishlore says heh.

As for pure ammonia... is there a hardware store anywhere near you? That's where I finally found some pure ammonia. Just ask an employee if they sell any and make sure that it's pure. No color, no scent (well other than the ammonia smell )... etc. Also shake the bottle, if it bubbles like a soap would do, then it's no good to use. If there are only air bubbles that quickly go away, then it's what you're looking for

You can always switch to ammonia. That's what I did when I finally got my hands on some.
 
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mattyluke

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Shollia, thanks again. My apolgogies on the confusion. I didn't realize that the flakes wouldn't totally break down as part of starting the cycle. Now I understand what you mean. I started doing the net thing tonight.

Shollia and anyone else that would be kindly enough to assist:
Just an update, I sent up the 10 gallon on Saturday and I stilll don't hve any readings. I've done my home work and have done alot of reseach through the fishoore messages and I've gathered that it varies and is inconsistent on now long it takes sometimes to cycle a tank. But, should I have at least some traces of ammonia so far? I guess that goes back to my question on how many flakes to put in the tank evey twelve hours.

Thank yery nuch!

Matt
 

ewolfe315

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Matt,

Your best bet is to use Ammonia,at least it was the best for me for a 120 gallon tank. Or you may want to try,( I assume you have a filter on this tank, you can put this filter on the other tank,with the filter, that has cycled and wait for about 2 weeks and move it back).

In other words run 2 filters on the the cycled tank and just move it to this tank in about 2 weeks.

I do this all the time, as a matter of fact I have 2 canister filters for my 120 gallon tank and I always have a hang on back filter to keep on hand in case of emergency. I have 2 filters on the 55 and 20 gallon tanks also. I may be over doing it but if I should get another tank all I need to do is move a filter here. Heck I even have 2 sponge filters running in various tanks just to keep them seeded.

Plus when I was doing the Ammonia method I never changed the water at all til the Ammonia and Nitrites were at 0. Then I did my only water change to get rid of the high Nitrate level at the very end.

I'm not sure if your the one that lives in Florida stating about the water and how bad it is coming from the tap. I'm here in Pa. and we have high chlorimine levels and was advised to double up on the dechlorinator. Instead of useing 1 tsp.per 10 gallons I now use 1 tsp. per 5 gallon. I also had a problem with the PH levels going up and down. To fix that problem(to keep it at 7.0-7.4) add some crushed coral to your gravel bed.IT'll take a few weeks before you notice a difference  Now the only reason I did this is because the 1 and only LFS that I trust has his PH setup in all his tanks in the 7.0 area and it's much easier to acclamize the fish if your tanks are at the same PH level and it'll also help with the fish from stressing out to much.

The only time I'll need my PH  lower is if my Discus decide to breed and I'll have to get that down into the low 6's at which time I'll get another tank and have nothing but a bare bottom plus I'll just add a filter from one of my tanks .

Hope this helps

John
 
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mattyluke

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Ewolfe,

Thanks alot for the detailed information. Since I'm already started with the food, is it ok to switch to pure ammonia? BTW, I'm not the one in Florida, but I also live in PA, NE Philly. The Ammonia in my tap water (from the "Schukel Punch") is disgustingly high so I can't use that when I do water changes. I'm at Wal Mart getting gallons of water when I need to do water changes. The bad thing is, I didn't realize this until about 6 weeks in to my first fish tank cycle. I was confused on why it wasn't lowering with 50% water changes everday so I finally tested the Tap. Got to love the city of brotherly love.

Matt
 

ewolfe315

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mattyluke said:
Ewolfe,

Thanks alot for the detailed information.  Since I'm already started with the food, is it ok to switch to pure ammonia?  BTW, I'm not the one in Florida, but I also live in PA, NE Philly.  The Ammonia in my tap water (from the "Schukel Punch") is disgustingly high so I can't use that when I do water changes.  I'm at Wal Mart getting gallons of water when I need to do water changes.  The bad thing is, I didn't realize this until about 6 weeks in to my first fish tank cycle.  I was confused on why it wasn't lowering with 50% water changes everday so I finally tested the Tap.  Got to love the city of brotherly love.

Matt
Matt,
I'm over here in the Wilkes-Barre area and I see no reason why you could'nt switch to Ammonia. Wow Ammonia in the drinking water, well lets put it this way if your still living,I'm sure the fish will.

Buying water to do water changes would be to much for me. Luckily we get our drinking water from a dam and not the Susky. Now I'm not sure if you can let the water sit out in open containers to help with the ammonia,I know it's a good way to get rid of chlorine but then again it'll take a long time to get rid of chlorimine(if it does,I don't know). By the time you get rid of chlorimine more then likely your water would have evaporated >..

How far are you from Lancaster? That pet place is having a huge sale on aquariums,$1 per gallon on 75 and 125 gallon all glass tanks in March.

But 1 thing I would do if I were you is to add the filter to your other tank. Nothing more I can say if your getting Ammonia out of your tap,sorry.

John
 
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