Fish Keep Dying???

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AzulFishy

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I have 1 betta and 1 harlequin Rasbora in a cycled tank. Ph 7.0 and 0,0,0. I got 2 more rasbora and 1 died 3 days later and the other 1 died 7 days after I got it. Idk what is going on and I'm getting very discouraged! The 2 were low in color when I got them but the 1 was getting more color but died. I get fish from pets + .

10 gallon
 

Iridium_2256

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Harlequin rasboras need schools of 8-10 to be happy. They also need a lower pH of about 6-6.5.
 

TexasDomer

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They are fine at your pH, though they should be in a larger group in a larger tank.

Your tank isn't cycled if you have no nitrates.

How are you acclimating them?
 

GuppyDazzle

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If you have zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and zero nitrates, your tests are not working properly (unless you're doing 100% water changes every day). Those zero numbers are saying there's zero fish waste. That can't happen when there are fish in the tank.

I recommend an API Master Test Kit. They're $30 or so, but they do lots of tests so they're cost effective in the long run. If you're using test strips, those can be very unreliable. Sometimes they work OK, but often not.

Try not to get discouraged. Everyone I know who has started keeping fish has had problems along the way. It's a learning process, and it never stops. That's why fishkeeping is such a popular long-term hobby.
 
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AzulFishy

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Iridium_2256 said:
Harlequin rasboras need schools of 8-10 to be happy. They also need a lower pH of about 6-6.5.
I'm slowly adding fish to get higher numbers.

TexasDomer said:
They are fine at your pH, though they should be in a larger group in a larger tank.

Your tank isn't cycled if you have no nitrates.

How are you acclimating them?
Hmm the pet store lady said the tank is perfect and said it's cycled..I guess not ! I float them until the same temp and slowly add tank water

WhoKnows said:
If you have zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and zero nitrates, your tests are not working properly (unless you're doing 100% water changes every day). Those zero numbers are saying there's zero fish waste. That can't happen when there are fish in the tank.

I recommend an API Master Test Kit. They're $30 or so, but they do lots of tests so they're cost effective in the long run. If you're using test strips, those can be very unreliable. Sometimes they work OK, but often not.

Try not to get discouraged. Everyone I know who has started keeping fish has had problems along the way. It's a learning process, and it never stops. That's why fishkeeping is such a popular long-term hobby.
I'm just confused why the one fish is bright in color and living! And the others aren't?

Since it's not cycled and no nitrates, then how much should I take out and how often for water changes? What can I do to get there to be nitrates? I take out 10 percent 1 time per week
 

TexasDomer

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Do you know about the nitrogen cycle?

I have found that most LFS employees don't know too much. I don't really listen to their advice, unless I've dealt with them previously and know them to be knowledgeable.
 

Jenoli42

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AzulFishy said:
Since it's not cycled and no nitrates, then how much should I take out and how often for water changes? What can I do to get there to be nitrates? I take out 10 percent 1 time per week
the only way to get nitrates is to grow your beneficial bacteria colonies.

in case the cycle isn't clear to you, hers a simplified version:

put simply, your fish poo. that poo breaks down into ammonia which is toxic to fish. imagine breathing your own poo.

one type of bacteria eat the ammonia. those bacteria then poo and create nitrite. nitrite is also very toxic to fish.

a second type of bacteria (nitrobacter) start growing. these guys grow more slowly but they eat nitrite. when nitrobacter poo, they produce nitrate.

that's how to get nitrate.

nitrate is less toxic & perfectly safe for fish until it gets higher than 20-40 ppm. you remove nitrates when you do weekly water changes. most of us keep nitrates below 20ppm.

I hope that makes sense?

getting seachem prime will keep your fish safe as long as the levels of ammonia plus nitrite combined add up to less than 1ppm. example: ammonia at .5 + nitrite .25 = .75 total toxins = safe with prime.

when your levels are higher, you need to do partial water changes (usually daily) to remove the toxins back down to a safer level. you do this until your bacteria grow and can do it themselves.

the way you test your levels is test kits like the API freshwater master test kit. or bring water from your tank into your lfs every other day...
 
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AzulFishy

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Jenoli42 said:
the only way to get nitrates is to grow your beneficial bacteria colonies.

in case the cycle isn't clear to you, hers a simplified version:

put simply, your fish poo. that poo breaks down into ammonia which is toxic to fish. imagine breathing your own poo.

one type of bacteria eat the ammonia. those bacteria then poo and create nitrite. nitrite is also very toxic to fish.

a second type of bacteria (nitrobacter) start growing. these guys grow more slowly but they eat nitrite. when nitrobacter poo, they produce nitrate.

that's how to get nitrate.

nitrate is less toxic & perfectly safe for fish until it gets higher than 20-40 ppm. you remove nitrates when you do weekly water changes. most of us keep nitrates below 20ppm.

I hope that makes sense?

getting seachem prime will keep your fish safe as long as the levels of ammonia plus nitrite combined add up to less than 1ppm. example: ammonia at .5 + nitrite .25 = .75 total toxins = safe with prime.

when your levels are higher, you need to do partial water changes (usually daily) to remove the toxins back down to a safer level. you do this until your bacteria grow and can do it themselves.

the way you test your levels is test kits like the API freshwater master test kit. or bring water from your tank into your lfs every other day...
I don't have a test kit I go to pet store to test. I can't go often. I did use that TSS and waited 2 weeks to do change and then tested it and those were the results in zeros. And I've been doing 10 percent change once a week (just because I was told to).
 

TexasDomer

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I would increase your water changes to 50% weekly, and I'd get your own liquid test kit.
 
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