Fish Breathing Rapidly After A Water Change; Too High Ph

Tank

First off, our freshwater fish tank is a 29 gallon fish tank, and it has been established/running for years, but I don’t know the exact timespan.
It does have a filter and I don’t remember the brand but it does use EZ-change #3 carbon filters. We have a heater in the tank, but have it off for a couple days because it’s been warmer in the house lately(broken AC). Lately the water temperature has been 76-80ish because of the house being warmer than normal. Currently I have 3 Glo Tetras in the tank, but I used to have a total of 5 Glo Tetras and a plecostomus algae eater/catfish(I think it was an Amazon sailfin catfish). One tetra died from a bladder issue months ago as well as the other from a fungal infection on the gill. Just yesterday my pleco(whom was my most precious fish) died(I’ll explain below).

Maintenance
I haven’t changed the water too often since I didn’t encounter issues as far as I could tell, but for the past month I’ve had to do small water changes every 4 days, following what the anti-fungal medication said. Normally I had planned to do changes monthly. I try to do around a 25-30% water change when I do water changes, and I use Jungle Start Right water conditioner in the water before adding it in the tank. The gravel used to be worse off in the past, but with every water change nowadays I clean parts of it while siphoning water to make sure I don’t make nitrates and stuff jump around too much.

*Parameters - Very Important
We had this tank for many years, but yes it was initially fully cycled back when we got the fish years ago. I use the Tetra 5-in-1 strip test for nitrites, nitrates, hardiness, alkalinity, and ph, and the Jungle ammonia test strips for ammonia.

The tests show color results that are in between colors, so it’s hard to say exact numbers for some. Because of all the recent water changes, the nitrates and nitrites are 0 but it used to be previously cycled with higher numbers for many years(hadn’t tested it in the past until the fish got sick).

Ammonia: It’s hard to tell the shade it is, but it’s either 0 or around 0.25(not very clear on the test but I did put 2 Jungle Ammonia Clear fizz tabs to help if there is).
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: According to the strip test, it’s in the 7.8-8.4 range, which is quite higher than I normally see it.

Feeding
I feed the fish in the afternoon and later at night before I go to sleep. I feed them enough for them to finish within a few minutes and any extra the algae eater used to eat up(I lost the algae eater yesterday though ): ). I feed them Wardley tropical fish flakes and I occasionally used to give my algae eater/pleco an algae wafer or two now and then.

Illness & Symptoms
The current fish affected are all three Glo fish tetras(only ones in the tank). I first noticed a month ago that the blue Glo tetra had a white patch on its tail, it came and went, eventually I noticed a part of the tail was missing as if it had been cut off, I started the medicine and it recovered after about 5-6 treatments or so. I used the Jungle Fungus Clear tabs and it made a full recovery recently. With that medicine, it said a dose can be given every 4 days after doing a water change before each dose. The last dose was Tuesday May 28th, and I did the most recent water change 4 days later on Saturday June 1st. Right after that water change, all three fish(and the pleco who’s deceased now due to some other issue it was having prior) started breathing rapidly and one fish’s gills are “raised outwards” or inflamed and they’re still breathing hard. We have had the Glo Tetras for at least 4 years now and had the pleco for more than 7(probably around 9) years before its recent passing. None of the fish had any ailments when we got them. The Purple Glofish Tetra had a clear bubble at one point on its analfin but it deflated and eventually didn’t come back, the blue one had a fungus on its tail which it recovered from thankfully, and all three Glo Tetras are breathing rapidly and only the blue one seems to have more interest in food. They all kind of hover at the bottom area of the tank, they swim fine, and the fins are normal, but their gills are darker and looked irritated(no evident signs of parasites).

Explain your emergency situation in detail.

I started medication for the blue Glo Tetra about a month back for a white fungus on its tail, and every 4 days I did a dose and a water change, which is what the medicine called for(I started around the beginning of May, which is how long it took to cure the fish). The last dose was on Tuesday May 28th, and the fish made a full recovery. In order to get the remaining medicine(or some of it) out of the water, I did a water change 4 days after the last dose and put the carbon filter back in(I had taken it out at the start of the treatment). Immediately after I finished the water change(which was about 30%), all the fish were breathing heavily and so I tested the water right away and noticed the ph and alkalinity were very high. It’s higher than I remember, however I didn’t check the parameters before the water change. I had very limited options, so I added a couple Jungle Correct PH tabs to see if that would give some help. The next day is when the algae eater/pleco was dead but it had some issues few days prior to that water change(it was skinny, lethargic, and would only eat algae wafers if I put them like right in front of it). I think the meds and all the water changes screwed the bacterial/algae growth or something. There were no other signs of parasites and the pleco had normal poop but some parts were clear at times. The main issue now is that a day or two later and the fish that are left(3 Glo Tetras) are still breathing fast, but slightly less fast as that day before. I gave them a couple Jungle correct ph and ammonia clear to see if that helped but it doesn’t seem to make a difference in ph or anything. Also, ever since that water change on Saturday, the tank has been really cloudy when it should have started to clear by now right? I did make sure I added the water conditioner to the new water before adding it in too. I’m at a loss on what to do but I really want to help my fish, and I’ve put so much effort to do maintenance. I know some say to use peat moss or driftwood for lowering ph, but that simply isn’t an option for me. If someone with extensive knowledge on all this can help me, I’d greatly appreciate it.

Forgot to mention, I use tap water for the water changes and the ph, hardiness, and alkalinity are the same as the tank water(it’s really hard and high alkalinity water). I don’t know if they changed something in the water recently or not, but how do I fix the water in my tank?

 

Your fish are probably suffering from ammonia and/or nitrite and/or nitrate poisoning. When fish are kept in a closed system (aquarium) their waste has nowhere to go. Nitrifying bacteria will oxidize ammonia and nitrites producing nitrates. Nitrates can ONLY be removed by physically removing them through water changes. In nature, fresh water is moving through ponds and lakes continuously. The other thing water changes do is remove excess salts and minerals. If you just 'top off' your tank you are adding water to replace water that has evaporated, but you are also adding more 'junk' the fish can't use. That junk is not removed when water evaporates it rapidly builds up and your tank and fish are simply suffering from that. You've already begun fixing it. You should continue 25-50% water changes every week. Get a reliable liquid test kit like the API Master Test kit and start paying attention to your water conditions. Ammonia and Nitrites need to be staying at 0 ppm and Nitrates need to be kept well under 20 ppm with water changes.
Your pH is fine for the fish you have.

 

I don’t just replace evaporated water, I use a gravel/water siphon to suck out 25% water and vacuum gravel and then fill a gallon of water with as close of water temp as I can get it, then add the water conditioner. The problem is the fish were breathing perfectly fine before this last water change. They were fine with all other previous water changes but the only thing I’ve noticed was the PH is higher than it should be. This isn’t a slight change they’ll adapt to, it’s a very noticeable difference and I’m worried because the tap water also is of a high ph and it used to be lower before(a level where they weren’t stressed). I don’t understand why this water change in particular made them do this when the others haven’t. The fish have never shown these symptoms before the water changes. The nitrites and nitrates have been at 0 for a while now so I don’t understand how it could be that. The ph is too high in the tank and tap water, and I’m worried if I continue constant changes that it’ll kill them.

 

It is flushing season for some with municipal water . The signs are up on the end of my street this week..
It could just be from Spring/Summer flushing ..

 

It is flushing season for some with municipal water . The signs are up on the end of my street this week..
It could just be from Spring/Summer flushing ..

We usually get a notice in the mail about that stuff, so idk. I just want to fix the water without hurting the fish or killing them and I don’t have a quarantine tank.

 

If you have an air stone you can add that .It is all you can do .
If you had a Qt you would still need water and that seems to be the problem ?
I would watch them closely .

 

If you have an air stone you can add that .It is all you can do .
If you had a Qt you would still need water and that seems to be the problem ?
I would watch them closely .

Well I have small old fish tank but it’s not set up and I may still have the same issues since the tap water ph is really high just like the tank. Plus, these 3 Glo Tetras are the only fish I have in the whole tank(used to be more) and al three are showing the fast breathing. Quarantine might also give them even more stress. I’ve also read that aerating the tank more can make the ph go higher which is definitely not what I want.

 

The ph was lower when they were fine, but now it’s jumped higher than what it WASand that difference can’t not be doing something to them(it’s not a slight change). surely that kind of fish could be in a higher ph, but in this situation they aren’t used to it and it’s really stressing them. If there was pre-existing stress then how come the fish started showing all of this at this very specific time, and not sooner. It has been monitored to an extent in the past, maybe not as much as right now, but the nitrites and nitrates are nonexistent rn and have been for a month now. They aren’t acclimated enough to this higher ph change and due to other tank inhabitants I’ve had and plan to get, they need that ph to get back to how it was. I’m not just having Glo fish in the tank. If neglect were the whole case then why haven’t they shown this rapid breathing sooner?

I need to know how exactly I can fix the cloudy/high parameter water without hurting the fish, because I can’t leave it at this level. Drastic water changes could overstress and kill them, but doing nothing would be just as bad. Any time a fish has a negative reaction to its environment is not normal, so it’s not where it should be. We have had these fish for a long time and I can tell when they’re stressed; and they’re really stressed. If the ph was normal, then the fish wouldn’t be breathing like this. Everything but the alkalinity and ph looks normal, so what else could there possibly be that’s causing them to be so stressed suddenly? Even the gravel is around 95% clean(left tiny bit for bacterial growth; no nitrates or nitrites though).

 

I need to know how exactly I can fix the cloudy/high parameter water without hurting the fish, because I can’t leave it at this level. Drastic water changes could overstress and kill them, but doing nothing would be just as bad. Any time a fish has a negative reaction to its environment is not normal, so it’s not where it should be.

You should continue weekly 25-50% water changes, keep your nitrates to less than 20 ppm. Watch to make sure your ammonia and nitrites remain at 0 ppm. If ammonia and/or nitrites start rising at all, you'll need some Seachem Prime to treat your water with. It binds with low levels of ammonia and nitrites making them harmless to fish but still available to nitrifying bacteria. Test your water every 3 or 4 days to keep an eye on ammonia, nitrites and nitrates until things calm down in your tank and your fish either get better or die. Big, less- frequent water changes are better than small water changes. Your "parameters" aren't high. A pH of 8.4 isn't that high. MY water has a pH of 8.2. My GH is astronomical aand my KH (carbonate hardness or "alkalinity" is very high as well. aand My fish are fine and I've had every kind of fish you have now in this water. Test your tap water pH, ammonia and nitrates. My guess is that your tap water pH is at 7.8-8.4 but that in 72 hours your tank pH will be a bit lower. Try that. I'm guessing that you may have a trace of ammonia in your tap water too.
Your cloudy water will clear itself up when your tank settles down. Right now, just keep the water clean, keep your fish tank lights off, let your fish recover.

The ph was lower when they were fine, but now it’s jumped higher than what it WASand that difference can’t not be doing something to them(it’s not a slight change). surely that kind of fish could be in a higher ph, but in this situation they aren’t used to it and it’s really stressing them. If there was pre-existing stress then how come the fish started showing all of this at this very specific time, and not sooner. It has been monitored to an extent in the past, maybe not as much as right now, but the nitrites and nitrates are nonexistent rn and have been for a month now. They aren’t acclimated enough to this higher ph change and due to other tank inhabitants I’ve had and plan to get, they need that ph to get back to how it was. I’m not just having Glo fish in the tank. If neglect were the whole case then why haven’t they shown this rapid breathing sooner?

What was your pH "before"?
I just noticed you said you added "Jungle pH Correct" right? That product is to raise the pH of acidic water, not to lower the pH. It's for water with a pH of less than 7 aand is formulated to raise the pH to 7 and stabilize it temporarily. So that's why it did nothing for your pH.

 

What was your pH "before"?

I forgot to check what it was right before this recent water change, but it’s usually hovering around a 7.2 range or slightly below that I believe. Today is Monday and I did that water change Saturday, and I have tested the water in the tank and tap water as well, both have the same ph, nothing has changed in the tank at all.
Edit: I’ve tested both at least two times today.
Edit: Really? It doesn’t say on the package it’s for lower levels, it just says it’ll stabilize the ph. Guess they should put more info on the box then. ;:l

 

I forgot to check what it was right before this recent water change, but it’s usually hovering around a 7.2 range or slightly below that I believe. Today is Monday and I did that water change Saturday, and I have tested the water in the tank and tap water as well, both have the same ph, nothing has changed in the tank at all.
Edit: I’ve tested both at least two times today.

Okay. Well, it's your fishes new normal. Unless you want to buy an RO system, invest in replacement minerals and electrolytes and have to micro manage your aquarium chemistry, you have what you have. Raising a pH is easy, lowering a pH requires chemicals and constant vigilance or RO filtration and mineral supplementation.

Where do you live? In the US most of the east coast has soft acidic water, the mid west and southern deserts tend to have harder, more alkaline water. The west coast water varies up and down the coastal states.

 

Okay. Well, it's your fishes new normal. Unless you want to buy an RO system, invest in replacement minerals and electrolytes and have to micro manage your aquarium chemistry, you have what you have. Raising a pH is easy, lowering a pH requires chemicals and constant vigilance or RO filtration and mineral supplementation.

Is there really no way to get the ph to where it was? I’m also afraid the weekly changes with this higher ph will harm them. I just want the tank ecosystem to get back to how it was, but still clean ofc. Maybe there’ll be a shimmer of hope and the tap water will magically reduce but I can only hope. >_<

Where do you live? In the US most of the east coast has soft acidic water, the mid west and southern deserts tend to have harder, more alkaline water. The west coast water varies up and down the coastal states.

I’m more central and we have really hard and high alkalinity water here in this area. I haven’t tested the tap water in the past, but I have been recently and all I know is what my fish tank parameters were, idk what tap water used to be like. I just know the tank water had the lower ph as I’ve mentioned. I swear doing the water tests for the tank it used to show it being at or below ph 7.2 and 180 and below alkalinity. According to the test, the tap and tank water are 180-300 alkalinity, which is higher. Something has to have changed recently.

 

I’m more central and we have really hard and high alkalinity water here in this area. I haven’t tested the tap water in the past, but I have been recently and all I know is what my fish tank parameters were, idk what tap water used to be like. I just know the tank water had the lower ph as I’ve mentioned. I swear doing the water tests for the tank it used to show it being at or below ph 7.2 and 180 and below alkalinity. According to the test, the tap and tank water are 180-300 alkalinity, which is higher. Something has to have changed recently.

It might have. You can call your water company and find out. Testing is public information. Most water companies have their testing on their websites. Most water companies change alkaline buffers and disinfection protocols during seasonal infrastructure maintenance so they may be using a different buffer for the summer.

 

It might have. You can call your water company and find out. Testing is public information. Most water companies have their testing on their websites. Most water companies change alkaline buffers and disinfection protocols during seasonal infrastructure maintenance so they may be using a different buffer for the summer.

I actually even tested our bottled water to see if that had a different ph and alkalinity, but it appeared the same as the tap water. I really want to help the fish, but the levels are still concerning. I suppose if the tank water is already higher and matches the tap, it shouldn’t jump around, but I’m worried if I don’t get those two levels under control that the fish could die. After seeing my precious pleco dead for reasons I’m still not sure of, it worries me that I’ll wake up the next day to see the other fish dead. Are the weekly water changes the only option to get things back to normal, like would it work? It’s unfortunate because when I get another pleco and more fish, I don’t want the ph so high like this. I don’t want to get more fish until the tank and everything is ok. IF there’s a slight chance that it’s not the ph or alkalinity making the fish super stressed, what else could it be? It just started after that last water change so it can’t be parasites. The ammonia test results are a bit “iffy”, but I have those ammonia clear tabs to help neutralize any levels and I only did it once so I’m not sure if it works. How long do you think the tank will be really cloudy for? It’s been like two days and this is the longest it’s been cloudy after a water change. Is there a particular part of the filter I should inspect perhaps? The carbon filter is new so that can’t be it(I rinsed it with some tank water beforehand to remove those particles). Oh man, what are the odd chances that the filter system is messed up and that’s what’s causing all this? •_•

 

I actually even tested our bottled water to see if that had a different ph and alkalinity, but it appeared the same as the tap water. I really want to help the fish, but the levels are still concerning. I suppose if the tank water is already higher and matches the tap, it shouldn’t jump around, but I’m worried if I don’t get those two levels under control that the fish could die. After seeing my precious pleco dead for reasons I’m still not sure of, it worries me that I’ll wake up the next day to see the other fish dead. Are the weekly water changes the only option to get things back to normal, like would it work? It’s unfortunate because when I get another pleco and more fish, I don’t want the ph so high like this. I don’t want to get more fish until the tank and everything is ok. IF there’s a slight chance that it’s not the ph or alkalinity making the fish super stressed, what else could it be? It just started after that last water change so it can’t be parasites. The ammonia test results are a bit “iffy”, but I have those ammonia clear tabs to help neutralize any levels and I only did it once so I’m not sure if it works. How long do you think the tank will be really cloudy for? It’s been like two days and this is the longest it’s been cloudy after a water change. Is there a particular part of the filter I should inspect perhaps? The carbon filter is new so that can’t be it(I rinsed it with some tank water beforehand to remove those particles). Oh man, what are the odd chances that the filter system is messed up and that’s what’s causing all this? •_•

What bottled water? Bottled drinking water should not have a pH much higher than 7.0 and definitely not a high alkalinity. I think your test kit (strips) are the problem. I suggest that you go get a good liquid test kit like the API Master test kit and some Seachem Prime and retest your water. Stop putting stuff in there to try to get rid of the ammonia. You're just going to muck up your beneficial bacteria that are growing there. Read this:
https://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

 

HI I understand that there have been changes to your water but wanted to chime in here and say that test strips are notoriously inaccurate. So while changes have likely occurred, your data is likely flawed.

Unfortunately, your fish have already been affected but like has been said, this is their new normal. However, regular (weekly) water changes of 20-30% do not expose fish to sudden changes and fish are adaptable to changes as long as they are exposed to them slowly... so even if the water has changed, a small water change done once a week does not suddenly change the chemistry of our tanks. Because you were suddenly doing a lot more water changes than usual... well, your tap could have changed but perhaps it wasn't even recently. The slow exposure the fish got with your old routine would not have hurt them but the sudden frequency with which you were changing water (you had to, meds, I know) may have caused a greater and more sudden exposure to changes in your tap.

Hmm, I am one of those with an RO/DI filtration system and I do manage my own water parameters. This is nothing to be embarrassed about. I purchased the system because I wanted a reef tank and pure water is necessary for that. The added benefit was, suddenly, I didn't have to worry that my southeast Florida tap water (which is notoriously hard) has the following parameters using API's liquid test kits...

pH - 8.2 - 8.4
KH/Alkalinity - 25
GH - 44
Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 30-40ppm (my tanks never had nitrates under 20, I kept hardy fish and I and they were happy with nitrates under 40ppm. I achieved this with strict large weekly water changes and a few plants to eat up nitrates in between.)

If we really want to know the level of everything in our water... that's not water... then we use a TDS meter to measure total dissolved solids. My tap's TDS is 350 and that's quite high. For a long time, there were certain fish I wouldn't keep with such hard and nitrate ridden water, (though your fish are fine with hard water.) Once I had an RO/DI system installed, it was very easy to make pure water and dose it with minerals and buffers to make it safe for fish. Just like those who use tap gather their water and dose it with a dechlorintator, I am simply gathering pure water and dosing it with things needed to make it safe for fish, (and inverts, and coral.) I'm far from shy about admitting that I manage water this way because you know what? Because I have learned how to 'make' water, I can make it however I want and thus, keep any kind of tank I would like.

Anyhow, the point of explaining my story is this... when I switched from tap to managed water, all of my tanks were then exposed this 'different' water. My routine didn't change though. 20% weekly water changes eventually transitioned my tanks to new parameters with a lower pH, KH, and GH, and certainly lower nitrates. I had 3 stocked freshwater tanks at the time and none of the life within those tanks suffered due to the changes I forced on them. They slowly acclimated and one would assume, happier and healthier in cleaner water.

So, I can firmly assure you that as long as you know your source water is free of dangerous contaminants, then starting a good regular water change routine now will absolutely not cause further harm to your fish. Furthermore, getting your pH back to where it used to be will probably not be the cure that I know you are so desperately looking for. In fact, it may cause more harm than good to make more changes now. The fact is... if they are suffering due to pH, it is not because of the current pH level, it is because of a sudden change in that value. Changing it again, particularly suddenly by with a scary supplement, will most likely cause more harm.

Lastly, most freshwater fish are highly adaptable to a different pH than what may be recommended. A lot of us are dealing with hard water and high pH's, but most of us do not have troubles because of it. As has been said, stability is more important than a precise number. What is most important with any tank is stability. Right now, your testing gear is not allowing you to easily see changes or instability, so the number one recommendation is to pick up a liquid test kit so you may keep a closer eye on things. Providing yourself and us with better data will assist in making sure your tank is safe. In an effort to make sure things are safe right now, just in case you are experiencing any low levels of ammonia or nitrite, you may want to pick up that bottle of Seachem Prime. Prime is a water conditioner that also binds ammonia and nitrites for 24-48 hours and users may safely dose it to a tank that often to manage a cycle bump. When at the pet store looking at the shelf, folks may avoid Prime as a simple conditioner because it doesn't appear to be worth its higher price. What they don't know is, you use very much less Prime than other dechlorinators. One drop per gallon is all that is needed for dechlorination and the binding of ammonia and nitrite. Its value lies in how long the bottle lasts.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

 

Thank you so much for both of your replies in trying to help me with my fish issues, it means a LOT to me. I’ve never used prime before and I heard it’s easy to overdose the fish on, does the bottle have like a special cap to do drops instead of too much coming out? I’ve always used the jungle start right conditioner so will changing that affect the fish because I’ve used this since the start of the tank? I’ll try to see if I can get ahold of a apI liquid master test(hope it’s not too pricey lol) and redo the tests. Because of life reasons, once the tank is 100% better, would it be safe to do slightly bigger changes like every couple weeks or so rather than every week? Also my purple Glo Tetra had a clear bubble on its analfin a long time ago and it came and went then deflated and never returned, any idea what that could’ve been because I’m curious?

Edit: According to my search, there are two different bottles that say prime(by seachem) on it with different labels; which one should I be looking at?

What bottled water? Bottled drinking water should not have a pH much higher than 7.0 and definitely not a high alkalinity. I think your test kit (strips) are the problem. I suggest that you go get a good liquid test kit like the API Master test kit and some Seachem Prime and retest your water. Stop putting stuff in there to try to get rid of the ammonia. You're just going to muck up your beneficial bacteria that are growing there. Read this:
https://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

HI I understand that there have been changes to your water but wanted to chime in here and say that test strips are notoriously inaccurate. So while changes have likely occurred, your data is likely flawed.

Unfortunately, your fish have already been affected but like has been said, this is their new normal. However, regular (weekly) water changes of 20-30% do not expose fish to sudden changes and fish are adaptable to changes as long as they are exposed to them slowly... so even if the water has changed, a small water change done once a week does not suddenly change the chemistry of our tanks. Because you were suddenly doing a lot more water changes than usual... well, your tap could have changed but perhaps it wasn't even recently. The slow exposure the fish got with your old routine would not have hurt them but the sudden frequency with which you were changing water (you had to, meds, I know) may have caused a greater and more sudden exposure to changes in your tap.

Hmm, I am one of those with an RO/DI filtration system and I do manage my own water parameters. This is nothing to be embarrassed about. I purchased the system because I wanted a reef tank and pure water is necessary for that. The added benefit was, suddenly, I didn't have to worry that my southeast Florida tap water (which is notoriously hard) has the following parameters using API's liquid test kits...

pH - 8.2 - 8.4
KH/Alkalinity - 25
GH - 44
Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 30-40ppm (my tanks never had nitrates under 20, I kept hardy fish and I and they were happy with nitrates under 40ppm. I achieved this with strict large weekly water changes and a few plants to eat up nitrates in between.)

If we really want to know the level of everything in our water... that's not water... then we use a TDS meter to measure total dissolved solids. My tap's TDS is 350 and that's quite high. For a long time, there were certain fish I wouldn't keep with such hard and nitrate ridden water, (though your fish are fine with hard water.) Once I had an RO/DI system installed, it was very easy to make pure water and dose it with minerals and buffers to make it safe for fish. Just like those who use tap gather their water and dose it with a dechlorintator, I am simply gathering pure water and dosing it with things needed to make it safe for fish, (and inverts, and coral.) I'm far from shy about admitting that I manage water this way because you know what? Because I have learned how to 'make' water, I can make it however I want and thus, keep any kind of tank I would like.

Anyhow, the point of explaining my story is this... when I switched from tap to managed water, all of my tanks were then exposed this 'different' water. My routine didn't change though. 20% weekly water changes eventually transitioned my tanks to new parameters with a lower pH, KH, and GH, and certainly lower nitrates. I had 3 stocked freshwater tanks at the time and none of the life within those tanks suffered due to the changes I forced on them. They slowly acclimated and one would assume, happier and healthier in cleaner water.

So, I can firmly assure you that as long as you know your source water is free of dangerous contaminants, then starting a good regular water change routine now will absolutely not cause further harm to your fish. Furthermore, getting your pH back to where it used to be will probably not be the cure that I know you are so desperately looking for. In fact, it may cause more harm than good to make more changes now. The fact is... if they are suffering due to pH, it is not because of the current pH level, it is because of a sudden change in that value. Changing it again, particularly suddenly by with a scary supplement, will most likely cause more harm.

Lastly, most freshwater fish are highly adaptable to a different pH than what may be recommended. A lot of us are dealing with hard water and high pH's, but most of us do not have troubles because of it. As has been said, stability is more important than a precise number. What is most important with any tank is stability. Right now, your testing gear is not allowing you to easily see changes or instability, so the number one recommendation is to pick up a liquid test kit so you may keep a closer eye on things. Providing yourself and us with better data will assist in making sure your tank is safe. In an effort to make sure things are safe right now, just in case you are experiencing any low levels of ammonia or nitrite, you may want to pick up that bottle of Seachem Prime. Prime is a water conditioner that also binds ammonia and nitrites for 24-48 hours and users may safely dose it to a tank that often to manage a cycle bump. When at the pet store looking at the shelf, folks may avoid Prime as a simple conditioner because it doesn't appear to be worth its higher price. What they don't know is, you use very much less Prime than other dechlorinators. One drop per gallon is all that is needed for dechlorination and the binding of ammonia and nitrite. Its value lies in how long the bottle lasts.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

 

There should be only one Seachem Prime. They do have a couple of labels though. The important thing is to be sure it says that it removes chlorine and chloramine and detoxifies ammonia and nitrites. The directions for using Prime should be on the label. You can't overdose the tank with Prime if you follow the directions on the label. While you are using it, you won't need another water conditioner so you can put your bottle of Jungle Start Right away for awhile.
The API Freshwater Master test kit sells for anywhere between $20 and $30 depending on where you buy it. In the long run, it is MUCH less expensive than the test strips. It will do about 600 to 800 individual tests or 160 sets of tests (pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates). If you also want to keep track of your general water hardness (GH) and your carbonate hardness or alkalinity (KH) API also sells a GH/KH liquid test kit for $8 to $10.
The bubble on your tetras fin could have been from adding very warm water to a tank with cold water in it. You said you add water with a bucket? It's best if the temperature of the water you add is within a couple degrees of the water in the tank. Also, if you use a hose to fill your tank, be sure the hose is not submerged as it's filling the tank. The splashing allows gasses trapped in the source water to escape while the tank is filling. Here's more info on that phenomenon:

Once your tank is restabilized, you might be able to do bigger water changes less frequently as long as you don't overstock your tank (have to many fish) and monitor your parameters to see what kind (volume) of water changes you need to do to keep your nitrates under 40 ppm all the time. Once your nitrifying bacterial colony is reestablished, it should be able to keep your ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm. Right now I suspect that the medications you were using on your fish may have killed some of your good bacteria and that's why you're seeing some ammonia in the tank now. That ammonia is the biggest problem for your tetras right now. The Prime, and water changes will help that.

 

I use a bucket when I siphon water/clean gravel from the tank, and I use a water gallon/jug(it’s not dirty since it’s dedicated for clean tank water use) and add the conditioner in that before adding it to the tank however many gallons I need to replace. The gravel/water siphon I have works really well, it’s just a pain to add all that water back in one jug at a time lol. Also I thought two fish didn’t want to eat, but last night and today they scarfed the flakes right up so I think they’re doing a bit better. The Tetra had that bubble before all those water changes, so the real cause is beyond me. How long do you think it’ll take for it to get re-established? Once the tank recovers, I want to get another pleco like the one I just had, a couple more Glo Tetras, and possibly a couple guppies. Guppies should be ok in this general ph level and temperature right? If I will ever need to acclimate them, what’s the best way to do so if I don’t have a drip valve and such? Sorry for asking so many questions lol.

There should be only one Seachem Prime. They do have a couple of labels though. The important thing is to be sure it says that it removes chlorine and chloramine and detoxifies ammonia and nitrites. The directions for using Prime should be on the label. You can't overdose the tank with Prime if you follow the directions on the label. While you are using it, you won't need another water conditioner so you can put your bottle of Jungle Start Right away for awhile.
The API Freshwater Master test kit sells for anywhere between $20 and $30 depending on where you buy it. In the long run, it is MUCH less expensive than the test strips. It will do about 600 to 800 individual tests or 160 sets of tests (pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates). If you also want to keep track of your general water hardness (GH) and your carbonate hardness or alkalinity (KH) API also sells a GH/KH liquid test kit for $8 to $10.
The bubble on your tetras fin could have been from adding very warm water to a tank with cold water in it. You said you add water with a bucket? It's best if the temperature of the water you add is within a couple degrees of the water in the tank. Also, if you use a hose to fill your tank, be sure the hose is not submerged as it's filling the tank. The splashing allows gasses trapped in the source water to escape while the tank is filling. Here's more info on that phenomenon:
https://m.petmd.com/fish/conditions/cardiovascular/c_fi_gas_bubble_disease
Once your tank is restabilized, you might be able to do bigger water changes less frequently as long as you don't overstock your tank (have to many fish) and monitor your parameters to see what kind (volume) of water changes you need to do to keep your nitrates under 40 ppm all the time. Once your nitrifying bacterial colony is reestablished, it should be able to keep your ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm. Right now I suspect that the medications you were using on your fish may have killed some of your good bacteria and that's why you're seeing some ammonia in the tank now. That ammonia is the biggest problem for your tetras right now. The Prime, and water changes will help that.

 

Oops, you know what, I was mistaken in my earlier reply about Prime's dosage. Sorry, I haven't needed it for a long time. The bottle is, of course, your best source for directions but I believe it's actually 1ml of Prime for each gallon of water. Yes, the thread lines on the inside of the cap on Prime can be used for measuring, but there's a better way. Are you familiar with the plastic syringes used for administering medications to infants? It's a 5ml syringe (no needle) and the pharmacy gives them away for free. All you have to do is ask for an infant dosing syringe. These go a long way in the hobby because they are helpful in measuring supplements but also because API's liquid test kits require 5ml of tank water to run the tests. So, I couldn't recommend a trip to the pharmacy for a free measurement tool more.

Speaking of the test kit... Idk about everywhere else but my local big box pet stores (Petco, Pet Supermarket) sell the Master Kit for close to $40. This is is ripoff because it's usually much cheaper on Amazon.

Don't worry about asking questions. That's precisely what this place is for.

The pleco... well, I'm not a good advisor on freshwater stocking since I am a salty girl after all, but... I do not believe there is a pleco species that will live its entire life comfortably in a 29 gallon tank. These guys get big and have a big bioload so are not really appropriate for smaller water volumes.

As for acclimation, no worries. You can acclimate in a bucket following the same rules as when using a drip acclimator. The difference is, you'll be doing micro water changes on the bucket rather than letting your tank water slowly drip in. Here's how I've done it before...

The fish is in a bag, yes? The water in that bag is not enough to create a large volume within the bucket, so rather than pouring the fish and its water into the bucket, the fish actually acclimates in the bag. However, the bucket is still filled with enough water to float the bag in, (the bucket water has been temp matched to the tank AND dechlorinated just in case of accidental transfer.) Using a clip of some kind, securely attach the bag to the side of the bucket and keep the bag and the bucket's waterline close to equal so the bucket water will maintain temp... and won't squish or flood the bag. Then, using a small measuring cup or a turkey baster, remove a small amount of water from the bag and replace it with the same amount of your tank water. I use a turkey baster do 2-4 ounce changes. Removed water can just be poured into the bucket. Do this micro change every 15 minutes or so. Some bucket water may need to be removed to maintain the waterline correctly.

You may do this for about an hour, or longer if you are acclimating particularly sensitive species. Just remember that temp management becomes an issue when doing very long acclimations... and in a bucket, even the smallest heaters can easily overheat. I have acclimated sensitive species for more than two hours before and it's a pain in the rear... adding a heater, keeping a close eye on the temp, removing the heater before it gets too hot in the bucket... watch temp... add the heater back if it starts getting cold in the bucket. Certainly, there are better ways but looong acclimations are rarely necessary.

 

To detox ammonia, it's 1ml per gallon Prime per 1ppm of ammonia

 

I use a bucket when I siphon water/clean gravel from the tank, and I use a water gallon/jug(it’s not dirty since it’s dedicated for clean tank water use) and add the conditioner in that before adding it to the tank however many gallons I need to replace. The gravel/water siphon I have works really well, it’s just a pain to add all that water back in one jug at a time lol. Also I thought two fish didn’t want to eat, but last night and today they scarfed the flakes right up so I think they’re doing a bit better. The Tetra had that bubble before all those water changes, so the real cause is beyond me. How long do you think it’ll take for it to get re-established? Once the tank recovers, I want to get another pleco like the one I just had, a couple more Glo Tetras, and possibly a couple guppies. Guppies should be ok in this general ph level and temperature right? If I will ever need to acclimate them, what’s the best way to do so if I don’t have a drip valve and such? Sorry for asking so many questions lol.

I don't really know how long it will take. If you really are having ammonia showing up and nitrites and nitrates are absent, it may take several weeks. Here is the link that explains the nitrogen cycle-I had posted it above -but don't know if you got a chance to look at it. It explains what your tank has to do to be able to process the ammonia and nitrites created by fish waste. It will help if you get that test kit. I am pretty sure your strips are inaccurate because you got the same readings for bottled purified water as you did for your tap water. A better test kit would give you a much better picture of what's really happening with your water.

 

Actually I think we do have an extra plastic syringe like that in the drawer that I can use. Also, the pleco I had was an Amazon sailfin catfish(my pfp is an old pic of the pleco) and we’ve had it for over 7yrs(probably closer to 9 yrs) with no issues til recent events where it died. This siphon/gravel vac we have is amazing once it gets going, so managing pleco bioload will be fairly easy this time around, for sure.
I think around here the kit is $20 or so if I get it at Walmart, so I’ll definitely look into getting one. The purple fish’s gills are kind of more raised or outward than normal, so is that a side effect of all this or will the gills be permanently like that? The gills aren’t being eaten away, they do look darker under the hill flaps though. I’ll try to get the prime too ASAP.

Oops, you know what, I was mistaken in my earlier reply about Prime's dosage. Sorry, I haven't needed it for a long time. The bottle is, of course, your best source for directions but I believe it's actually 1ml of Prime for each gallon of water. Yes, the thread lines on the inside of the cap on Prime can be used for measuring, but there's a better way. Are you familiar with the plastic syringes used for administering medications to infants? It's a 5ml syringe (no needle) and the pharmacy gives them away for free. All you have to do is ask for an infant dosing syringe. These go a long way in the hobby because they are helpful in measuring supplements but also because API's liquid test kits require 5ml of tank water to run the tests. So, I couldn't recommend a trip to the pharmacy for a free measurement tool more.

Speaking of the test kit... Idk about everywhere else but my local big box pet stores (Petco, Pet Supermarket) sell the Master Kit for close to $40. This is is ripoff because it's usually much cheaper on Amazon.

Don't worry about asking questions. That's precisely what this place is for.

The pleco... well, I'm not a good advisor on freshwater stocking since I am a salty girl after all, but... I do not believe there is a pleco species that will live its entire life comfortably in a 29 gallon tank. These guys get big and have a big bioload so are not really appropriate for smaller water volumes.

As for acclimation, no worries. You can acclimate in a bucket following the same rules as when using a drip acclimator. The difference is, you'll be doing micro water changes on the bucket rather than letting your tank water slowly drip in. Here's how I've done it before...

The fish is in a bag, yes? The water in that bag is not enough to create a large volume within the bucket, so rather than pouring the fish and its water into the bucket, the fish actually acclimates in the bag. However, the bucket is still filled with enough water to float the bag in, (the bucket water has been temp matched to the tank AND dechlorinated just in case of accidental transfer.) Using a clip of some kind, securely attach the bag to the side of the bucket and keep the bag and the bucket's waterline close to equal so the bucket water will maintain temp... and won't squish or flood the bag. Then, using a small measuring cup or a turkey baster, remove a small amount of water from the bag and replace it with the same amount of your tank water. I use a turkey baster do 2-4 ounce changes. Removed water can just be poured into the bucket. Do this micro change every 15 minutes or so. Some bucket water may need to be removed to maintain the waterline correctly.

You may do this for about an hour, or longer if you are acclimating particularly sensitive species. Just remember that temp management becomes an issue when doing very long acclimations... and in a bucket, even the smallest heaters can easily overheat. I have acclimated sensitive species for more than two hours before and it's a pain in the rear... adding a heater, keeping a close eye on the temp, removing the heater before it gets too hot in the bucket... watch temp... add the heater back if it starts getting cold in the bucket. Certainly, there are better ways but looong acclimations are rarely necessary.

 

To detox ammonia, it's 1ml per gallon Prime per 1ppm of ammonia

So for example, if there were 2ppm ammonia, then two gallons with 1ml of prime in each would treat it when adding the two gallons in the tank?

 

So for example, if there were 2ppm ammonia, then two gallons with 1ml of prime in each would treat it when adding the two gallons in the tank?

You will need to follow the directions on the label. The normal dosing of Prime, to remove chlorine and deactivate ammonia and nitrites, is 1 ml per 10 gallons of water. 1 ml per gallon is 10 times the recommended dosing. Before you use that much more than recommended you might want to contact the manufacturer at the Seachem support site to see if it's necessary or safe. Here's the link to their site:

 

Oh I was reading what they said above cause they said 1ml for 1 gallon, must’ve been a typo then never mind. I haven’t been able to get the test kit yet because apparently they don’t have it at the store... didn’t check the pet store yet. Guess I’ll have to wait another day til I get the kit. At least the fish’s breathing looks sorta normal now, but I’m still concerned tbh. The store(according to my mom) doesn’t have the prime either so this is kinda unfortunate that I have to wait now.

You will need to follow the directions on the label. The normal dosing of Prime, to remove chlorine and deactivate ammonia and nitrites, is 1 ml per 10 gallons of water. 1 ml per gallon is 10 times the recommended dosing. Before you use that much more than recommended you might want to contact the manufacturer at the Seachem support site to see if it's necessary or safe. Here's the link to their site:

 

Does Mom have Amazon Prime? I have found both Prime and API's Master Test Kit to be less expensive online than they are at big box pet stores.

I'm sorry for the confusion on dosing Prime. I shouldn't run my mouth without being sure. Just as an FYI, when it comes to any kind of supplement, be it something like Prime, supplements for plants, and especially meds... do not trust what folks say more than the label. Remember that the corporations that have made such products are the ones who have put in the research and development time, and they know what is safe. This is why it's also important to put your trust in good brands and Seachem is a good brand.

 

Does Mom have Amazon Prime? I have found both Prime and API's Master Test Kit to be less expensive online than they are at big box pet stores.

Lol my parents don't use amazon or anything but I’m going with to this one smaller non-chain pet store tomorrow to check. It’s a small store but they still have quite a variety so hopefully we can find it there.

 

Lol my parents don't use amazon or anything but I’m going with to this one smaller non-chain pet store tomorrow to check. It’s a small store but they still have quite a variety so hopefully we can find it there.

They should have Prime as well.

 

Finally got the apI freshwater master test kit and tested the aquarium water. The ph is around 7.4-7.8(more closer to 7.4), and the ammonia appears to be between 0.50-1.0. I got Prime(by seachem) and have given a dosage according to the label, so hopefully the ammonia drops. Didn’t test for nitrites or nitrates yet either but I am going to do a water change Saturday since the last one was Saturday. I’ll just have to wait and see if things improve, so thanks for the help everyone! ;D

Does Mom have Amazon Prime? I have found both Prime and API's Master Test Kit to be less expensive online than they are at big box pet stores.

I'm sorry for the confusion on dosing Prime. I shouldn't run my mouth without being sure. Just as an FYI, when it comes to any kind of supplement, be it something like Prime, supplements for plants, and especially meds... do not trust what folks say more than the label. Remember that the corporations that have made such products are the ones who have put in the research and development time, and they know what is safe. This is why it's also important to put your trust in good brands and Seachem is a good brand.

 

Finally got the apI freshwater master test kit and tested the aquarium water. The ph is around 7.4-7.8(more closer to 7.4), and the ammonia appears to be between 0.50-1.0. I got Prime(by seachem) and have given a dosage according to the label, so hopefully the ammonia drops. Didn’t test for nitrites or nitrates yet either but I am going to do a water change Saturday since the last one was Saturday. I’ll just have to wait and see if things improve, so thanks for the help everyone! ;D

Really, you might want to do water changes to keep the combined total of ammonia plus nitrites at less than 1.0 ppm. Your ammonia and nitrite levels will be even higher by Saturday. You may need to be doing a couple of 50% water changes a week until your tank finishes cycling. In any case, re-dose the Prime every 48 hours while ammonia and nitrite are testing positive. Good Luck!

 

I was just thinking, so since 1ml of prime treats 10 gallons of water, how much do I need if I need to add water to the tank via one gallon at a time after a water change? You know, how much to put in each gallon?

 

I was just thinking, so since 1ml of prime treats 10 gallons of water, how much do I need if I need to add water to the tank via one gallon at a time after a water change? You know, how much to put in each gallon?

One-tenth of a milliliter per gallon.
Are you in an apartment or a house?
It's much easier to siphon water out into a yard or bathtub then refill the tank with a hose. What are you using to measure the Prime with? If you have a syringe, 1 ml is about 20 drops. So 1 tenth of a milliliter would be 2 drops.

 

We live in a house, and I just have a water gallon I fill with tap water, add conditioner in it, then put it in the tank and repeat. There’s no way using a tub would work because we use the shower daily and we can’t just use a hose in the house lol. I'm fine with using my method; it gets the job done in the end. So it’s 2 drops per gallon? I just want to double check cause even the manufacturers website doesn’t say and I just want to make sure I’m giving enough but not too much when I go to do the water changes.

One-tenth of a milliliter per gallon.
Are you in an apartment or a house?
It's much easier to siphon water out into a yard or bathtub then refill the tank with a hose. What are you using to measure the Prime with? If you have a syringe, 1 ml is about 20 drops. So 1 tenth of a milliliter would be 2 drops.

 

We live in a house, and I just have a water gallon I fill with tap water, add conditioner in it, then put it in the tank and repeat. There’s no way using a tub would work because we use the shower daily and we can’t just use a hose in the house lol. I'm fine with using my method; it gets the job done in the end. So it’s 2 drops per gallon? I just want to double check cause even the manufacturers website doesn’t say and I just want to make sure I’m giving enough but not too much when I go to do the water changes.

Yes, 2 or 3 drops per gallon.