First fish tank: Dirted, Natural, Jungle Tank

Hello all,
A couple days ago I started my first ever aquarium. Amidst great excitement there is cautious optimism. I thought it would be fun to document my experience in hopes that it might help out others that are interested in the hobby. I have received a lot of great advice in the past 4 months of researching, so it will be my way of trying to give back to this community. I have started a Dutch/Walstad tank, in which detailed information has been proven to be rather sparse. There is great information to be found on the merits of such a set-up, however no real instructional on the step by step process to get it started. Therefore, hopefully this will help others who are interested in such tanks. (Hopefully, this isn't a manifesto on how not to create such environments)

Please feel free to add any criticisms or commentary; it will be much appreciated.

Day 1

Basic details:
Organic soil substrate: depth of about 2-3inches.
Black Diamond "sand" cap: depth of about 1 inch
20 Gallon tank (24x12x17)
Nicrew Skyled light
No CO2, No filter (aside from the plants/bacteria)
No water movement

Plants:
Anubias Nana (3)
Hydrocotyle Tripartita
Dwarf Nomaphila Siamensis (Hygrophila Corymbosa Compact)
Hygrophila Lancea 'Araguaia'
Amazon Sword
Sag Subulata (2)
Hornwort
Salvinia Natans (floating)
Christmas Moss

Picture after the planting:

 

Very good, but I believe that a dutch tank is a tank with only plants, and no hardscape? And personally I would remove the stone(grey things?) and keep the wood.

So really the tank is more of a nature/walstad style, coming from the AMAZING centerpiece wood.

 

Day 3

Water parameters:
PH 7.6
KH 4dKH 71.6 ppm
GH 9dGH 161.1ppm

NH3 .25ppm
NO2 .25ppm
NO3 0ppm

(water parameters from the tap)
PH 8.2
NH3 1ppm
NO2 0ppm

Lighting:
On between hours of 8-1, 4-9
Off between the hours of 1-4

Starting to develop greenish-water, as well as a pretty substantial film on the water level. So might have to diminish the lighting exposure to prevent a considerable algae growth. My initial plan is to let the plants and substrate settle for a week or two before a water change. As always, comments always appreciated! (criticisms even more so!) PascalKrypt

 

YES! Walstad setups rock! I've got 7 of them! I like your cap, its a nice color and will help those green plants pop Floating plants in my opinion really benefit the walstad aquariums. In Diana's book, she references their supreme capability in being able to remove nutrients from the water directly at a much more efficient rate then other plants due to the fact the roots are exposed to open water.

That driftwood piece is seriously to die for. Love its look. Following!

 

Very good, but I believe that a dutch tank is a tank with only plants, and no hardscape? And personally I would remove the stone(grey things?) and keep the wood.

So really the tank is more of a nature/walstad style, coming from the AMAZING centerpiece wood.

Oops, that very well could be. I just heard someone call it a Dutch aquarium interchangeably with the Walstad. I'm not much into categorizing things, I just like what I like. The theme around the aquarium is to blend my deep interest in history with my love for the environment/nature. Therefore, what is probably an eye-sore to most, the décor is the history aspect. It is intended to look like sunken artifacts of an ancient civilization in a Central American jungle.

YES! Walstad setups rock! I've got 7 of them! I like your cap, its a nice color and will help those green plants pop Floating plants in my opinion really benefit the walstad aquariums. In Diana's book, she references their supreme capability in being able to remove nutrients from the water directly at a much more efficient rate then other plants due to the fact the roots are exposed to open water.

That driftwood piece is seriously to die for. Love its look. Following!

Yep! I have read that book cover to cover at least twice! So I made sure to include some surface plants. The one chosen is fairly uncommon, but worked for what I was going for. (no long roots) So hopefully, it will grow like a duckweed etc.
Thank you so very much for the kind words. 7?! Please let me know if you have any suggestions!

 

Day 5

Not much new to report today. On Friday I’ll check my water parameters to see where I am at. Last night I skimmed the top of the water to remove some of the algae. Man does the tank create a awful smell. (Well...like a pond)

This made me ponder if I should add some water movement which would maybe decrease the surface algae. But I have decided to stay the course as through research, I found Walstad tanks to have success without it. Just trust the system.

After work today I found the the algae is back on the surface and might be accumulating on the plants/wood. Hard to tell if it is growing or simply settled there from last night’s “cleaning.” Obviously hoping it is the latter.
I then thought about adding a snail to clean up some of the algae but scratched that idea after research. It looks as though that would be far too early as I assume I have detectable ammonia.

Anyways, thank you for reading. (I’ll try to keep these uninteresting entries as brief as possible) As always: criticism very much welcomed!

Light on from 9-1 and 4-7.
Temperature is at around 78/79

 

Day 7
Made it one week! Haha.

Anticipated big entry today so stay with me.

Checked my water parameters for the first time in a week:

NH4= between .25-.5 ppm
NO2= 0ppm
NO3= 0ppm

Didn't check my water parameters in the tank this time. I assume it is still:
PH 7.6
KH 4dKH 71.6 ppm
GH 9dGH 161.1ppm)

I adjusted my lighting schedule to provide light between:
9-1(13:00); then again from 4(16:00)-6(18:00).
The tank does receive some natural light (very indirect) from a south facing (in the Northern Hemisphere) window.

I did about a 60% water change for the first time since setting up the tank. I did do some skimming of algae from the top of the tank two days ago and replaced water, but this was the first official change. I am starting to grow concerned about my plants so wanted to remove most of the film in the tank. But really, the main reason was to save my marriage. I have convinced my wife to allow me to set up the aquarium in the bedroom (even convincing to get one took some work); but man did it start putting off an unpleasant odor!

As always, I almost forgot to add the API Stress Coat +; and I almost forgot to unplug the heater! That will be a chore to remember, but hopefully it will become habit.

In order to combat the algae, last night I borrowed two pothos plants from my extensive plant collection (another hobby of mine) and added them as floating nutrient absorbers. Hopefully this will impede the algae on the surface.

Would it be wise to add water movement to this set-up? It seems all the algae appears on the surface on the tank.




I would also like to provide an update on my plants:
*I know the likelihood that all plants will make it is slim, and is a experimental process to determine what works in my water parameters; but I just would like some opinions/criticisms/suggestions to get the most of what I have. I welcome all commentary, but would like to shamelessly shamefully bother several individuals specifically. PascalKrypt and Guy25 ; you both have experience with these types of tanks, and I would really like to hear your opinions (if I so may impose) on how I have started.
SeattleRoy , Vishaquatics , I don't believe we have interacted in the forum but in my free time I like to continually educate myself on different topics regarding fish tanks. I find your contributions extremely valuable and was wondering if you could provide your insights into my current aquarium plants situation.

Anubias
I am mildly concerned about these plants. I know these plants are fairly hardy, and take few requirements to grow (slow growing, not ideal for Walstad tanks, however I loved the leaves and have added other power growers) but I have observed some discoloration and even some "thinning/decomposition" of some leaves. Notice the dark spots on the leaves. I first thought that it might be too close to the light, but through research it seems as though you can't really give the "too much" light. I could be mistaken though. Some of the leaves look to be "stretching" which is a common occurrence in terrestrial plants that don't get enough light, so...(?)




Hygrophila Lancea 'Araguaia'
This plant seems to be doing alright. There are some small brown patches on some of the leaves. But hasn't really wilted yet. So I am cautiously optimistic about this one.



Dwarf Nomaphila Siamensis (Hygrophila Corymbosa Compact)
These plants are somewhat hit or miss. Two of the plants look like it will not make it. The leaves have become transparent and is losing leaves. On the other side of the tank it seems to be doing a little better, but does show signs of some transparent leaves. This is a picture of the better looking one.




And the not so good-looking one



Amazon Sword
This plant came with some small brown spots, but if I am not mistaken, I think there are more since adding to the aquarium. Some sort of deficiency?



Hydrocotyle Tripartita
Not sure if I am worried about this one or not. It isn't showing signs of displeasure, but it isn't necessarily showing signs of growth either. It has only been a week, so this one probably just needs more time to establish and get going. This is my first try at nurturing submerged plants/aquatic plants; so I don't really know what to expect growth-wise.




Hornwort and Sag Sub.
These two plants I am not really worried about. I added the Hornwort last Sunday and it predictably is growing quite well. Ugh, I am going to be disheartened if that is the only thing I can keep alive. I dislike the look of it... Oh well, people have much worse problems right?
My biggest worry is that the hornwort is releasing chemicals that are impeding or harming my other plants that I actually want to have in the tank..

The Sag Subulata hasn't done much, but hopefully within the next couple weeks, I will see runners and expansion.


I would also like to include the water quality report from my area that discloses in-depth parameters more than ph etc.

Quality Report
Typical Water Summary

Through research it seems that some plants will wilt then recover. I am just interested in anyone's thoughts about my situation. I have read the brilliant pinned post regarding deficiencies in aquarium plants (in the plants section) and have some thoughts on what some deficiencies might be, however as I am completely new to this I am not 100% sure.
Anyways, as always, all commentary welcomed especially criticisms!
(I always find criticism gets a bad connotation.)

*I am so sorry for the long entry today

 

Well not bad! Just remember its only day 7! I find when I start walstads, the plants kinda are in this weird limbo state, some dying some thriving, while everything settles and the tank is striving for equilibrium. I'll be honest, I don't have allot of knowledge when it comes to exactly what plants work together and which ones don't, aside from guess and check ( if they are all doing well, and I introduce a new species and another flourishing species begins to tank, I chalk it up to allelopathy ).

Regarding the status and health of plants - so many factors it could be? Light ( PAR, distance from tank, wattage, etc..), water chemistry ( seems ok to me though ), decor ( depending on what it's made out of? ( the rock/slab ). It seems there are a few species ( anubias, sword, Siamensis, Hygrophila Lancea, ) that all have those brown spots. Speaking from experience, this happened to me and it turned out there was a bunch of nitrates in the tank that caused this. AND...I did exactly what you did to fix! I added pothos plants, that actually grew a vine around the top of my tank which looked really cool. I also added some giant duckweed, ( I just needed nitrate sponges really ), and this really helped the other plants flourish...all while competing with algae. How is the Salvinia ( floating ) doing? Regarding your question on water movement....i've personally had good and bad experiences. Sometimes it seems like its just what the tank needed, a little more oxygen + nutrient flow around the tank...and other times it seemed to be just what the algae wanted XD. I think some experimentation is in order, unless some other folks know better than I.

Good luck! Love the updates, keep it up.

 

Hmm, looks like some plants aren't doing so hot indeed. But dieback upon introducing them to the very different water of your tanks is, as you noted, quite common and not immediately something to be alarmed about. As long as the tips and buds of the plants are still doing well.
Do remove melting and overly damaged leaves as they may add to your algae problems. That one hygrophila that is essentially a bunch of dead leaves now should be removed.

Both the sword and the anubias are indicating deficiencies. They are both flexible in terms of light, so I don't think you should seek the cause in the lighting, whether too much or too little. The problem is more likely to have to do with nutrients. The anubias looks like it is purposely reabsorbing its lower leaves to recover nutrients that it can use for newer growth. That's not immediately a red flag as long as that new growth looks good. The sword is a different story, there seems to be something in the way of imbalance there.

For the hygrophila, unless you are sure that the plant you bought was originally growing submerged, it could be massive transplant shock. It is rather common for it to have been grown (semi) emersed before sale and it doesn't adapt all that quickly. In general plants that look more like 'earthplant', like hygrophila, nomophila, etc. can have a hard time switched to underwater growth. Sometimes I tie these plants to the rI'm of the tank when first introducing them, leaving 1-2 leaves sticking out of the water and the roots just suspended in the middle of the tank. Then when the leaves start growing, I lower it a bit every water change until it can eventually be planted.
Not sure if that is a solution but it is something to consider for future purchases.

I don't know what is going on with that hydrocolyte but it looks abysmal to be honest...

If you continue to see leaf melt (with the leaves turning translucent), try adding a bit of fertiliser with balanced macronutrients for a few days to see if that changes anything. Might make algae worse if that's not it though, so that's a bit contentious.

Water movement is a double edged sword. It makes algae growth on the plants and surfaces worse (in my experience) but it does help the plants thrive better.
You could also consider adding a large air stone, I've found that effective sometimes. It create surface agitation and a little bit of water movement but neither excessively, and it helps replenish CO2 during the day when the lights are on.

 

Well not bad! Just remember its only day 7! I find when I start walstads, the plants kinda are in this weird limbo state, some dying some thriving, while everything settles and the tank is striving for equilibrium. I'll be honest, I don't have allot of knowledge when it comes to exactly what plants work together and which ones don't, aside from guess and check ( if they are all doing well, and I introduce a new species and another flourishing species begins to tank, I chalk it up to allelopathy ).

Regarding the status and health of plants - so many factors it could be? Light ( PAR, distance from tank, wattage, etc..), water chemistry ( seems ok to me though ), decor ( depending on what it's made out of? ( the rock/slab ). It seems there are a few species ( anubias, sword, Siamensis, Hygrophila Lancea, ) that all have those brown spots. Speaking from experience, this happened to me and it turned out there was a bunch of nitrates in the tank that caused this. AND...I did exactly what you did to fix! I added pothos plants, that actually grew a vine around the top of my tank which looked really cool. I also added some giant duckweed, ( I just needed nitrate sponges really ), and this really helped the other plants flourish...all while competing with algae. How is the Salvinia ( floating ) doing? Regarding your question on water movement....i've personally had good and bad experiences. Sometimes it seems like its just what the tank needed, a little more oxygen + nutrient flow around the tank...and other times it seemed to be just what the algae wanted XD. I think some experimentation is in order, unless some other folks know better than I.

Good luck! Love the updates, keep it up.

Well thank you for the encouragement. As you stated, so many different variables it is almost impossible to scientifically eliminate what is the cause.
The decoration is actually concrete (I know..) that I have sealed (hopefully) thousands of times.

The Salvinia… well I am unsure. The bottom of the plant has turned brown, but my wife has said that she thought it looked to have grown slightly...so who knows. I guess we will see in the coming days. Might have to add a different floating plant.

Hmm, looks like some plants aren't doing so hot indeed. But dieback upon introducing them to the very different water of your tanks is, as you noted, quite common and not immediately something to be alarmed about. As long as the tips and buds of the plants are still doing well.
Do remove melting and overly damaged leaves as they may add to your algae problems. That one hygrophila that is essentially a bunch of dead leaves now should be removed.

Both the sword and the anubias are indicating deficiencies. They are both flexible in terms of light, so I don't think you should seek the cause in the lighting, whether too much or too little. The problem is more likely to have to do with nutrients. The anubias looks like it is purposely reabsorbing its lower leaves to recover nutrients that it can use for newer growth. That's not immediately a red flag as long as that new growth looks good. The sword is a different story, there seems to be something in the way of imbalance there.

For the hygrophila, unless you are sure that the plant you bought was originally growing submerged, it could be massive transplant shock. It is rather common for it to have been grown (semi) emersed before sale and it doesn't adapt all that quickly. In general plants that look more like 'earthplant', like hygrophila, nomophila, etc. can have a hard time switched to underwater growth. Sometimes I tie these plants to the rI'm of the tank when first introducing them, leaving 1-2 leaves sticking out of the water and the roots just suspended in the middle of the tank. Then when the leaves start growing, I lower it a bit every water change until it can eventually be planted.
Not sure if that is a solution but it is something to consider for future purchases.

I don't know what is going on with that hydrocolyte but it looks abysmal to be honest...

If you continue to see leaf melt (with the leaves turning translucent), try adding a bit of fertiliser with balanced macronutrients for a few days to see if that changes anything. Might make algae worse if that's not it though, so that's a bit contentious.

Water movement is a double edged sword. It makes algae growth on the plants and surfaces worse (in my experience) but it does help the plants thrive better.
You could also consider adding a large air stone, I've found that effective sometimes. It create surface agitation and a little bit of water movement but neither excessively, and it helps replenish CO2 during the day when the lights are on.

Well, that is disheartening to hear. However, I won't give up!

I have went ahead and removed all of the dwarf nomophila/hygrophila save for one. They were all mush and basically disintegrated. I was going to take the last one out ("best" one pictured) but it has a small root growing from the stem, so I left it.

So in summary:
Anubias: (attached the rhizome to the wood via aquarium safe super glue gel) which are not looking too good.
Nomophila: almost all removed
Hydrocolyte: Pretty much dead

Amazon Sword: showing signs of deficiencies, but not dead yet
Hygrophila: Have some brown spots but haven't yet turned to mush (looks to be the next in line to)
Salvinia: looking pretty brown
Sagittaria: at a stalemate current, only plant not showing as though they have at least had a conversation with the plant grI'm reaper.

And the stupid hornwort looks to be excelling. Go figure!

Oof, what a first week. That was (could turn out to be) a fairly expensive "failed" experiment. I could only end up with 1 or 2 original plants. Others make it look so easy!

Failure isn't the opposite of success, it is part of it.
So I will continue!

I will do as recommended and monitor the plant situation then add fertilizer if needed. Through browsing the forum I noticed that many people use Thrive all in one fertilizer so I might invest in that. (Or try and find a cheaper alternative)

I have lost a good deal of plant coverage in the tank so probably will have to consider adding new plants.
Any suggestions? I think I have killed (or at least would be charged with attempted murder by a jury of my peers) most of the "easy" "beginner" plants. There is a general lack of freshwater plants locally so I have to order them online.

Also, thank you both for taking the time to read and comment on my situation. I'm sure you have better things to do then read these long posts. So I greatly appreciate you donating your time and expertise.

Kind regards,

 

Well thank you for the encouragement. As you stated, so many different variables it is almost impossible to scientifically eliminate what is the cause.
The decoration is actually concrete (I know..) that I have sealed (hopefully) thousands of times.

The Salvinia… well I am unsure. The bottom of the plant has turned brown, but my wife has said that she thought it looked to have grown slightly...so who knows. I guess we will see in the coming days. Might have to add a different floating plant.


Well, that is disheartening to hear. However, I won't give up!

I have went ahead and removed all of the dwarf nomophila/hygrophila save for one. They were all mush and basically disintegrated. I was going to take the last one out ("best" one pictured) but it has a small root growing from the stem, so I left it.

So in summary:
Anubias: (attached the rhizome to the wood via aquarium safe super glue gel) which are not looking too good.
Nomophila: almost all removed
Hydrocolyte: Pretty much dead

Amazon Sword: showing signs of deficiencies, but not dead yet
Hygrophila: Have some brown spots but haven't yet turned to mush (looks to be the next in line to)
Salvinia: looking pretty brown
Sagittaria: at a stalemate current, only plant not showing as though they have at least had a conversation with the plant grI'm reaper.

And the stupid hornwort looks to be excelling. Go figure!

Oof, what a first week. That was (could turn out to be) a fairly expensive "failed" experiment. I could only end up with 1 or 2 original plants. Others make it look so easy!

Failure isn't the opposite of success, it is part of it.
So I will continue!

I will do as recommended and monitor the plant situation then add fertilizer if needed. Through browsing the forum I noticed that many people use Thrive all in one fertilizer so I might invest in that. (Or try and find a cheaper alternative)

I have lost a good deal of plant coverage in the tank so probably will have to consider adding new plants.
Any suggestions? I think I have killed (or at least would be charged with attempted murder by a jury of my peers) most of the "easy" "beginner" plants. There is a general lack of freshwater plants locally so I have to order them online.

Also, thank you both for taking the time to read and comment on my situation. I'm sure you have better things to do then read these long posts. So I greatly appreciate you donating your time and expertise.

Kind regards,

Sorry about it Next purchase you could to spread things but putting a few stems of the plants incoming into a tall vase next to a sunny window. So you have a back-up in case it doesn't work out immediately in the new tank.

Other easy plants to try:
- Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia), can also be grown emersed and half-half.
- Pogostemon (hates my largest display tank but thrives in most others)
- Banana Plant (Nympoides "Taiwan", I believe)
- Rotala Rotifunda
- Bacopa (this one never works for me, think it hates my water, but most people have an easy time growing it)
- Ludwigia
- Ceratopsis
- Limnophila (very fast growing and dense, very adaptable too)
- Riccia (never did well for me, stagnates at best, but other people can't manage to eradicate the stuff)
- Vallisneria (if it does well, it propagates very quickly which makes this a great floor-to-surface plant to fill space cheaply)
- Myriophyllum (bought one of the species being sold for outdoor, frosted-compatible pond use. It explodes outside in my tubs, so I put some in a 78F indoor tank as an experiment and it is very robust and fast-growing.)
- Alternatives to Salvinia include: Amazon frogbit, duckweed and pistia (water lettuce).


Don't be discouraged! The first time I started a large walstad tank, I included a lot of Alternanthera which had this beautiful purple foliage and I was amazingly in love with it. At first it looked to be doing okay, then after a week it started melting. The entire background consisted of it and all of it just completely rotted away, but at a slow pace and I didn't want to remove them because I loved the way they looked.
I later also realised the leaf structure they had (and the ones I saw for sale later with different leaves) probably meant I bought ones that had only emersed leaves. Anyhow it caused a huge mess and even after the last one melted, my tank was still unbalanced and plagued by intermittent algae problems for months. I still feel that tank is one of my least successful walstads, which is disappointing because my favourite fish are in there and I take a lot of pictures of it.
*cough* anyhow. That's how we learn, we do stuff and sometimes we make a mess of things. One thing I've learnt for sure is not to allow failing plants to rot completely in your tank, it creates trouble in your overall tank balance.

 

HI cmid21

I have never done a "Walstad Tank" but I thought the layer of dirt was supposed to be rather thin (1/2" - 1") and the capping material thicker (3" - 4"). You can try adding an airstone to the tank however it will likely increase the odor in the room for a while.

If the "unpleasant odor" you are referring to is sort of a "rotten egg" odor, it is likely hydrogen sulfide gas and is likely caused by anaerobic bacteria decomposing organic material in the substrate.

 

HI cmid21

I have never done a "Walstad Tank" but I thought the layer of dirt was supposed to be rather thin (1/2" - 1") and the capping material thicker (3" - 4"). You can try adding an airstone to the tank however it will likely increase the odor in the room for a while.

If the "unpleasant odor" you are referring to is sort of a "rotten egg" odor, it is likely hydrogen sulfide gas and is likely caused by anaerobic bacteria decomposing organic material in the substrate.

Oh yes, I forgot to mention this in my post but a healthy walstad tank should not have a strong odor (other than a natural earthy one, but it certainly wouldn't be classified as "a smell" unless you hate the smell of 'outdoors' in general). If it is wafting outside of the tank that is definitely a sign you have too much decomposition going on.

Just for reference - indeed the dirt should be on the thin side, but 1/2 an inch is too little for proper rooting. 1.5-2.5" is better for a shallow tank. Taking another look at that picture though... cmid21 maybe I can't find the info right now, but that substrate looks a little high. How much dirt did you use? I think we had a discussion on this before but can't quite remember.
The capping on the other hand should be as thin as possible because it only serves to keep the dirt in place, and any more you add on risks suffocating plant roots by restricting water flow to the dirt.

 

Oh yes, I forgot to mention this in my post but a healthy walstad tank should not have a strong odor (other than a natural earthy one, but it certainly wouldn't be classified as "a smell" unless you hate the smell of 'outdoors' in general). If it is wafting outside of the tank that is definitely a sign you have too much decomposition going on.

Just for reference - indeed the dirt should be on the thin side, but 1/2 an inch is too little for proper rooting. 1.5-2.5" is better for a shallow tank. Taking another look at that picture though... cmid21 maybe I can't find the info right now, but that substrate looks a little high. How much dirt did you use? I think we had a discussion on this before but can't quite remember.
The capping on the other hand should be as thin as possible because it only serves to keep the dirt in place, and any more you add on risks suffocating plant roots by restricting water flow to the dirt.

PascalKrypt , thank you for taking the time to respond, for the encouraging words and for the extensive list of plants.

The depth of the substrate is between 2-3inches. The sand cap is roughly 1 inch. Now the sand is rather compact, so much so that some of the dirt below the cap is still dry.

When I set up the tank I:
Put my organic potting soil in the bottom of the tank. (sifted out some large chunks) Let it air out overnight. Wet the placed soil then added a little more soil, to a depth of 2-3 inches of dry soil to keep the wet down. (some was starting to move/float) Then capped with a small amount of "sand."

I know we had a long conversation regarding anoxic zones and planted tanks. I felt 2-3 inches of soil was adequate enough to provide room for plant growth while remaining on the thin side. My initial plan was to make a deep substrate that aimed for anoxic zones for denitrification. I since postponed that experiment until I could get think tank started. (I know you spoke about testing the effects of anoxic zones on plant roots. How is that going?)

Now I could be mistaken, but I believe the smell was cause by the film/algae on the water surface of the aquarium. After removing the film and doing a large water change, the smell did subside a little. I wouldn't categorically state that it smelled like rotten eggs (H2S) but it didn't smell like nature either. A very stale pond I would say.

However, as H2S is neutralized by O2, the water change/adding of O2 might have neutralized the H2S temporarily. I wouldn't think that only 2-3 inches of soil would create anoxic zones, but the cap is pretty compact.(?) Assessing the situation of my plants, maybe I do have some anoxic zones in the tank. As the plants are not growing/providing enough O2 to neutralize the H2S...

I guess I could add an airstone (O2) to the aquarium to see if the smell does disappear. That might indicate that I do have anoxic zones in the substrate. Maybe it will help with the surface algae as well. With the current state of my plants however, I am weary about the results. (algae growth as advise previously) Another solution might be to aerate (by poking into the dirt) the substrate and document the results.

I am hesitant to keep throwing money at the problem without really having an idea of the cause. Air stone, fertilizer, more plants; it will add up...

SeattleRoy , thank you for taking the time to comment.
I have read many of your posts explaining the needs/deficiencies of certain aquatic plants, which are very helpful. (vast understatement) It looks as though my Amazon Swords and Anubias plants are showing signs of deficiencies, and I am determined to save them.

Based on my water measurements (0 Nitrites and 0 Nitrates), I might conclude (in my limited knowledge) that there might be a Nitrogen deficiency? I guess this should be easy to correct, as I could just add fish food to the tank. It was stated earlier that it as though the Anubias was absorbing the older leaves. Would this be indication of a phosphate deficiency also?

Local water:
Phosphorus= not tested
Calcium= 8-24ppm
Magnesium= 15-18ppm
Potassium= 0-6ppm
Sulfate= 12-128ppm
Iron= Not detectable
Manganese= Not detectable
Copper= Not detectable
Zinc= Not detectable
Boron= Not detectable
Molybdenum= Not detectable

I have these local water parameters, however I am unsure how to utilize this information. I am unable to find a blueprint on the plants I own and their respective requirements of each nutrient. Is there such a database? Or are you able to tell by looking at the data, the most likely deficiency(deficiencies)?
I know there are generic all-in-one fertilizers but also specific (powder) nutrients. Which would be the better option in my case? Any suggestions for brand names? Obviously, the hesitancy with fertilizers being algae growth. I don't want to use anything unnecessarily. (And again, the money concerns)

As always, thank you thank you for any insights.

*edit*
My wife said it smells like “someone getting a perm.” (Something done to one’s hair) Whatever that means in the contexts of my tank... At least it isn’t rotten eggs.

 

HI cmid21

Most folks describe the smell of a perm as either burnt hair or rotten eggs.

So this is a new tank? Are the swordplants and anubias new as well? Are the plants recently purchased?

The water parameters do not look bad with the exception of the lack of iron. A Walstad tank will not typically show much nitrogen, the plants should get their nutrients from the substrate and to a much lesser extent the water column. Most folks do not dose nutrients into the water column for a Walstad tank.

Probably the best sources for plant information are the books by Christel Kasselmann, the plant explorer. The first one she did is in English, her second one has not been translated from German yet. For an online source I like the plant database at AquaticPlantCentral.com for information.

Hope this helps!
-Roy

 

About the deep substrate experiment, so far it is looking pretty poor actually, though I'm not 100% sure if the problem is caused by the substrate depth. But the lily in that 'tank' completely melted within 2-3 weeks after some two months of vigorous growth.
The hairgrass also present in that tank is still green and thriving though, since that is also a substrate-rooted plant I'm not quite sure if the lily's demise is due to the substrate but I'm guessing the hairgrass roots don't go nearly as deep.
Anyhow, I've kind of revised my recommended substrate depth downwards a bit. I think 2.5 is now really the maximum I recommend, though as stated before it depends a lot on the density.
If a part of your sand is still dry... that sounds way too compacted. And in that case you definitely have anoxic zones. If water with that much pressure coming from above can't manage its way in, then oxygen won't either. Even that excessively deep substrate from that experiment is wet throughout.

 

HI cmid21

Most folks describe the smell of a perm as either burnt hair or rotten eggs.

So this is a new tank? Are the swordplants and anubias new as well? Are the plants recently purchased?

The water parameters do not look bad with the exception of the lack of iron. A Walstad tank will not typically show much nitrogen, the plants should get their nutrients from the substrate and to a much lesser extent the water column. Most folks do not dose nutrients into the water column for a Walstad tank.

Probably the best sources for plant information are the books by Christel Kasselmann, the plant explorer. The first one she did is in English, her second one has not been translated from German yet. For an online source I like the plant database at AquaticPlantCentral.com for information.

Hope this helps!
-Roy

About the deep substrate experiment, so far it is looking pretty poor actually, though I'm not 100% sure if the problem is caused by the substrate depth. But the lily in that 'tank' completely melted within 2-3 weeks after some two months of vigorous growth.
The hairgrass also present in that tank is still green and thriving though, since that is also a substrate-rooted plant I'm not quite sure if the lily's demise is due to the substrate but I'm guessing the hairgrass roots don't go nearly as deep.
Anyhow, I've kind of revised my recommended substrate depth downwards a bit. I think 2.5 is now really the maximum I recommend, though as stated before it depends a lot on the density.
If a part of your sand is still dry... that sounds way too compacted. And in that case you definitely have anoxic zones. If water with that much pressure coming from above can't manage its way in, then oxygen won't either. Even that excessively deep substrate from that experiment is wet throughout.

Yes, brand new tank (the actual tank is old, cleaned etc.) My first fish tank ever. All plants were bought a week ago new.

Well then, I might have some anoxic zones. My substrate at its maximum is 2.5 inches and the cap is .5 inches for a total of 3 inches deep. I have heard of people using a cap that is well over that number, so I am shocked that this depth created anoxic zones. The sand was wet but it looked as though a small section of the dirt just under the cap was dry. (Only based on color analysis)
In preparation, I did wet the “sand” down to rinse the substrate of any dirt/film; so maybe that made it more compact? Still, this is a fairly common cap and a common preparation practice, so I am confused on why this occurred. You can see some soil leeching, but also a lighter brown band.



Anyways,
Day 9

Due to the great information provided by the responses here I decided to tackle the anoxic zone issues along with the sad state of the plants.

Today I did another water change. The surface algae has not been back since I added the pothos and did a large water change; so I decided to continue with what worked. In addition, after the addition of the pothos/water change, the smell has almost vanished.
In retrospect, it could be due to:
1. The addition of oxygen through the water change to neutralize the H2S
2. The algae actually causing the odor

I also modified the temperature to around 77/78 degrees.

In addition to the steps outlined above, I have since removed the lid for more gaseous exchange and have tried to aerate the substrate by poking; hoping this would help with the anoxic/smell issues.

I have to give another statement of complete appreciation to the expertise and suggestions regarding the issues with the plants in the tank. I would be literally lost without it.
Now I am unaware of the actual problems regarding the plants, however I am able to narrow it down from context of the information provided above. It seems as though my water parameters should be sufficient for growth. Which was my main concern. So I am able to tentatively discard that as a cause. Obviously there is something seriously lacking in regards to the plant care. If my tap water parameters indicate that there are enough nutrients for plants growth, then my thought would be to add new water consistently to replenish nutrients in the water through water changes. Makes sense right?

The lack of nutrients would make sense as I have zero algae in the tank. Even with the mortality rate of plants in the tank, algae has not been present. I would think that the plants are absorbing nutrients faster than can be provided. My question would be... why hasn’t the soil provided this?

Maybe there was also an issue with the light? With the lid attached, the condensation might have dispersed the light in a unsatisfactory manner? Who knows. I am optimistic about the future of a couple of the plants. The amazon fern and the nomophila (my favorite) seem to have new leaves. Also, some of the Anubias have new root growth; so that is a little victory

So in the interest in brevity, that is what I will conclude with.




New root growth is in the top right corner. Leaves still look horrible though.




Amazon sword, new leaves in the middle?




Nomophila new leaves?

Thanks for reading!
Please leave any criticisms!

 

then my thought would be to add new water consistently to replenish nutrients in the water through water changes. Makes sense right?

Good thought!

Looks like you've got the start of new growth, looks promising.

 

Good thought!

Looks like you've got the start of new growth, looks promising.

Thanks! Hoping for the best. As stated previously, without everyone's help I would be pretty lost right now. So in positive spirits now.

PascalKrypt, if I may ask you a separate "scientific" question: Why do my plants seemingly do better with frequent water changes? I know I am adding nutrients but the majority of my plants are stem plants. Shouldn't they be getting (the majority) of nutrients from the soil? I am growing worried that the substrate isn't going to provide what the plants need. Or is the situation being that while the roots are establishing, the majority of nutrients are being absorbed from the water column?

*The reason I ask, is because I am considering investing in fertilizer which will reduce the need for daily/every other day water changes. (water consumption consideration) I also have to consider the extra nutrients and the opportunity for algae.

 

Thanks! Hoping for the best. As stated previously, without everyone's help I would be pretty lost right now. So in positive spirits now.

PascalKrypt, if I may ask you a separate "scientific" question: Why do my plants seemingly do better with frequent water changes? I know I am adding nutrients but the majority of my plants are stem plants. Shouldn't they be getting (the majority) of nutrients from the soil? I am growing worried that the substrate isn't going to provide what the plants need. Or is the situation being that while the roots are establishing, the majority of nutrients are being absorbed from the water column?

*The reason I ask, is because I am considering investing in fertilizer which will reduce the need for daily/every other day water changes. (water consumption consideration) I also have to consider the extra nutrients and the opportunity for algae.

Stem plants are stem plants precisely because they can take nutrients from both. I think it is much due to what you suspect, they are newly establishing and have an easier time absorbing from the water column. Daily water changes is a little excessive though (I notice weekly changes make a difference, but anything beyond that doesn't do much), but maybe it is because of that? That or the soil is too dense and is suffocating the roots.. but it is a little early to say.

Like I said, fertiliser is a double edged sword. I've experimented with it in filterless tanks and the only time it caused more plant growth instead of an algae bloom is when it was added to very shallow tanks (<10") with excessive lighting, or to tanks that had an inert substrate instead of soil (e.g. gravel, leaves). You can try it, naturally, but keep a close eye and stop dosing when problems first start appearing. One of those liquid CO2 pumps might be of more use, actually, as it will benefit the plants (CO2 is usually the most limiting factor in no tech tanks) with no risk of encouraging algae. It's not nearly as good as injection and you shouldn't use it as a long-term solution, but it can help in the establishing phase.
(Also you can try tossing in some dried leaves, the decomposition should create a bit of CO2 over time as well).

Here is what you should keep in mind:
CO2 + Light + Nutrients = Plant growth. All three need to be present in order for any one of them to be used. So if the plants run out of Light, nutrients and CO2 won't be used. In this case there simply won't be growth, as algae also require light to use nutrients. Then, if you have light and CO2 but no nutrients, plants will either stall or reabsorb older leaves to build new ones (other than lack of light, this may be a reason why plants are bald below their tops). But again, in this scenario algae won't grow since there aren't enough nutrients.
Then if you have nutrients and light but no CO2, this is when algae will grow while plants won't.

Your current (no algae, plant melt) situation does seem to indicate lack of nutrients, though it could be CO2 lack with inadequate lighting as well. Seeing how you have plants that are fine with no light and that are also doing poorly that also seems unlikely.

Hmm. Don't get too impatient though, plant can just struggle in the beginning and may need to sort themselves out.

 

Day 13

Well, almost two weeks have past now. Just a quick update.

Unfortunately a lot of the plants have perished. I currently only have one Nomophila, one Anubias, one Hygrophila left. The Anubias is turning yellow, Hygrophila has stalled and isn't looking good at all, Nomophila looked to have new leaves but the stem looks to be turning to mush.

Instead of looking like the majestic Amazon or beautiful Manuel Antonio National Park in Costa Rica; it is now starting to represent the deforestation threat that many of them face.

The positive news is that the Amazon Sword is doing well, along with the Hornwort. The Saggitaria has not done anything, but at least it is still green. Same goes for the Salvinia.

Two days ago I experimented with the water parameters. I agreed with PascalKrypt suspicions and thought that the plant stall was due to lack of nutrients. To understand my aquarium more, I decided to run as controlled of experiment as I could. I purchased a plant fertilizer (Thrive for low tech aquariums) and added this into the aquarium at a strength of 50% of what was suggested. (Initially did 25%; but was a little impatient)
At the end of yesterday I closely inspected the tank, and there was some small algae growth on the glass. Now with my dwindling plant population I can't definitively state what the deficiencies/problems with the water is (in regards to plant growth) but I think I can reasonably deduce that there:
1. There is most likely a deficiency in nutrients. (Algae wasn't growing prior to the addition of fertilizer)
2. There is probably a deficiency in CO2 as well (Algae growth was observed. If the plants had nutrients and did not outcompete the algae, then CO2 might be lacking)

So the question is, how do I address each point.

1a. This is the easy part. Just add fertilizer. The more tricky question is the second point
2a. Deficiency in CO2, without injecting CO2.

Unless I am mistaken, CO2 is produced in the substrate of a Walstad style tank. The idea is that decomposition of organics produces CO2 in the presence of Oxygen. A lack of Oxygen will impact the CO2 produced from the decomposition, and will then create anoxic zones. You want enough organic matter in the substrate to supply CO2, but if there is too much decomposition and too little O2, then the processes switch to anoxic processes that produce toxic compounds. (Which seem to be evident with the odor coming from the tank)

I think this is exactly what I have here. I have low levels of Oxygen, low levels of CO2, low nutrients and an excess of toxic compounds. So... save from completely turning this tank into a completely high tech tank by adding CO2 and O2; how do I get more levels of O2 and CO2 in the tank.

O2 levels are supposed to be boosted by the aquarium plants. However, if the plants aren't doing well, the O2 production won't be there. Which in turn impacts the production of CO2 which is the reason the plants aren't doing well. What a vicious cycle.

It seems the most prudent course of action would be to add oxygen to the tank; with the thought being:
Oxygen will kick-start the CO2 production process through the substrate. Which will in turn benefit the plant growth, which will then connect the cycle and generate more oxygen. If there is H2S present in my tank, I can (again theoretically) use Sulfate reducing bacteria to create CO2 using sulfates. (If there is Oxygen present to neutralize the H2S)

Theoretically, I could also add a temporary DIY CO2 addition to aid with the plant growth, which will then aid the oxygen production. If I was to add a new component to the tank, I would probably go with the addition of Oxygen (air stone) as this will both help with the problems I am experiencing and neutralize any H2S that is present in the tank.

I think my next course of action will be to remain patient. I am not going to invest more money into an air stone etc. to chase some of the problems with the tank. My plan is continue to do water changes every other day which will in effect add more Oxygen to the water along with nutrients to see how that effects the inhabitants.

I am not sure if this journal is helping anyone, but I will continue to report my experiences in hopes it helps at least one person trying out this style of tank. There really isn't any how-to guides out there, but maybe this will help others in their experiments. In addition, almost all tanks you see on YouTube etc. show a perfect tank and how "easy" keeping one can be. I want to show you that this isn't always the case.

As always, any comments welcomed.

 

Sorry to hear it As I said before, it is really hit and miss. Sometimes it is just impossible to tell why some tanks thrive and others don't due to the incredible multitude in factors. I would indeed go with an air pump before anything else. They really don't have to be expensive. I have three of them, the most expensive one cost me ~20 euros and I run 7 tanks on with splitters and valves that cost maybe 15 euros together.

Once you have it in there, try fertilising again and see if the algae appear again. Algae on the glass is completely normal by the way (that is just biofilm) unless it was really filamentous or black and bushy? If no algae appeared on plants anywhere, I would just continue fertilising, because apparently the plants are making use of the additional 'food' in the water.

It is really surprising me that your anubias is doing so poorly.

This isn't your first planted tank right, or is it? Do you have 'normal', filtered tanks with plants growing in them?

 

This isn't your first planted tank right, or is it? Do you have 'normal', filtered tanks with plants growing in them?

This is my first tank ever. Have never kept a fish or any kind of aquatic tank. My first go at it!

No need to be sad. I am actually finding this project rather fascinating! (the science involved) Speaking of the science involved. Do my thoughts look correct regarding CO2/O2/H2S and the interactions of the substrate/plants?

It is really surprising me that your anubias is doing so poorly.

I know! Several resources stated that this plant is basically bullet-proof. I keep some pretty demanding terrestrial plants, so I was surprised that I was able to kill this particular one.

I would indeed go with an air pump before anything else. They really don't have to be expensive. I have three of them, the most expensive one cost me ~20 euros and I run 7 tanks on with splitters and valves that cost maybe 15 euros together.

Once you have it in there, try fertilising again and see if the algae appear again. Algae on the glass is completely normal by the way (that is just biofilm) unless it was really filamentous or black and bushy? If no algae appeared on plants anywhere, I would just continue fertilising, because apparently the plants are making use of the additional 'food' in the water.

I think I am going to skip the pump for now. (But indeed, will be the first thing I invest in due to the thoughts in my previous post) I think the water changes should help with the problems I am facing. If not, then adding Oxygen through a pump it is. I fully recognize that adding an air pump is the probable "fix" but wanted to try this experiment first.

I am hesitant to continue the fertilizer. There was a considerable amount of small brown algae that accumulated on the glass in a short period of time. Obviously in regards to nutrients I am currently at or below the balance of what plants need. (No algae= no excess) I fear that my CO2 levels are low which will stimulate algae growth. My plan being:
"Well some plants are growing. The ones that have struggled have died so there is no sense in trying to chase their growth. Focus on the ones that are. Don't change much and let the few plants that are able to grow, grow. That way algae will not have a chance to thrive, which is the current situation. (Don't mind algae, as I know it can be beneficial, just don't want it inhibiting plant growth) When these few plants get established, the O2 output will be greater making it "safer" to add other plants; both by aerating the substrate through the roots and creating CO2 through the substrate decomposition."

PascalKrypt , please provide any amendments as you see fit. I appreciate all the advice you provide. Dank je

 

How about adding CO2 as liquid? There are different products, one of the best seem to be Excel Flourish. It doesn't add nutrients, just carbon. That might work as first aid.

 

Definitely not a Dutch aquascape. Dutch scapes have little to no hardscape, have stem plants lining the back and sides, and have ground cover in the middle.

 

Can't at the moment go into the lengthy post (bit short of on time and rather too tired to concentrate), but having read that this is your first planted tank - the reason I was asking is that killing even pretty much indestructible plants with no readily identifiable huge problems makes me a bit worried about your water and soil. Is there any possibility something is in it that could be harming the plants? Do you dose this tank with the same conditioner as your non-planted ones? What soil did you use again?

Get a small transparent container (plastic or glass vase, anything 1 gallon or so works) and put a small crypt or anubias plant in it, near a window or windowsill somewhere. See how that plant fares. If it starts dying straight away too, something is wrong with your water.

 

Can't at the moment go into the lengthy post (bit short of on time and rather too tired to concentrate), but having read that this is your first planted tank - the reason I was asking is that killing even pretty much indestructible plants with no readily identifiable huge problems makes me a bit worried about your water and soil. Is there any possibility something is in it that could be harming the plants? Do you dose this tank with the same conditioner as your non-planted ones? What soil did you use again?

Get a small transparent container (plastic or glass vase, anything 1 gallon or so works) and put a small crypt or anubias plant in it, near a window or windowsill somewhere. See how that plant fares. If it starts dying straight away too, something is wrong with your water.

Wow, now you have me very concerned.

The soil I used was:


The conditioner I used is:


I don't have any other tanks or have ever had any in the past. This is my first try at any fish or planted tank.

I know the PH out of the tap is rather high. (see parameters in initial post) But I was told previously in this thread that my water looked fine. I also was told that high PH shouldn't be a problem with the plants. (The PH inside the tank is around 7.5, I believe the last time I checked; 8+ from the tap)

Free time is at a premium, so maybe in the near future I can set up the experiment suggested.

How about adding CO2 as liquid? There are different products, one of the best seem to be Excel Flourish. It doesn't add nutrients, just carbon. That might work as first aid.

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I'll do some research on this.

 

Day 26
Haven't updated this in a long time as I don't know if this is interesting or not. Either way, I have decided to provide an update. A lot has changed.

In summary:
I had a lot of plant melt from my initial plants. The only survivors were basically the Amazon Swords, Hornwort, Sag Sub., and one Nomophila(!) The Nomophila is in the center of the frame. Its stem turned to mush, however, it grew roots right below the leaves! I currently have it suspended in the water to facilitate root growth. I figured it grew in the water column out of the soil on its own, so let it be for the time being. I might plant it in the substrate if the roots get established enough, as I don't want to suffocate the roots in my substrate cap. I also had a weird smell emitting from the tank after my first week or so. There has been no algae growth and I attributed that to not enough excess nutrients. The inevitable white "stuff" has grown on my wood installations, but has since declined, so hopefully that ugly phase is coming to an end. Overall a pretty rough start, but I was determined not to give up.

Since:

1. I removed the acrylic lid from the tank to stimulate better gaseous exchange. Also, the lid might have had an adverse effect on the lighting; diffracting the light away from the plants.
2. I have removed the decorations from the tank. I am not sure if these items were the cause of any negative outcomes within the tank, but decided to remove them just in case. They were made or Portland cement and coated many times with aquarium safe epoxy, but I just didn't want to take the chance. Admittedly, I think I prefer the tank better without the décor.
3. I have replaced the original plants that did not make it. Since my Amazon Swords are thriving (putting out a new leaf seemingly every week) I decided to stick with Echinodorus plants. I have added two different types of Echinodorus along with more Sag Sub. I also invested in water lettuce (floating) as my previous floating plant is not doing so well.
4. I have removed the Pothos from the tank as I think they were too efficient at gathering nutrients towards the top of the tank at the expense of my floating plants. (Could be a stupid idea, but I like to experiment)
5. After my first couple weeks, I decided to do regular (every 2 or 3 days) water changes. This was to add more nutrients (from my tap water) back into the tank along with Oxygen.

Reflections:
The changes listed above, at first look, seem to have greatly benefit my aquarium. Now, with all the different variables present it would be imprudent to make any definitive conclusions about what caused the change in trajectory of the tank. I could have very well been all changes outlined above, or conversely have been none of the above and the plants just needed to adjust. Whatever the case may be, the initial surviving plants are thriving and the odor has not returned in several weeks. I have trimmed the Hornwort several times and have replanted the trimmings throughout the tank as to not have compartmentalized sections for specific plants; and create more of a impressionistic swath of color and texture.

Current undertakings:
Monday is when I added the new plants to the tank. During that endeavor, I drained roughly half the water from the tank. Before refilling with fresh water, I added about 25% recommended strength of Thrive fertilizer; just out of curiosity. Previously I added a small amount of fertilizer to the tank and got a sizable but manageable amount of algae growth. Due to my lack of water movement, I estimated that most of the fertilizer stayed toward the surface of the tank and didn't make it down to the lower layers. (Coincidently, that is where most the algae growth was) I haven't seen any algae growth to date. I can only guess that there were far too few nutrients in the water column for my initial plants ie. Anubias, which led to their demise. In the future, I might try Anubias again with fertilizer as an experiment.
Today my water parameters were:
Ammonia : .25ppm
Nitrite: ~2-5+ ppm
Nitrate: 0-5ppm
I haven't tested the water parameters in a while, so I has happy to see the large Nitrite readings. I will monitor the Nitrite readings more closely as once this goes to zero I should be fully cycled. In addition, it seems as though it is rather common to stall on a high nitrite spike; which can be helped along by some water changes.
I also realized recently that my heater is not properly calibrated. It was set to a temp of 78, but the actual tank was around 73/74. Maybe when I am not being lazy I will recalibrate, however, currently it doesn't bother me as I know the difference between the two readings. I thought that plants would see better growth at a higher temperature but if it isn't broke then don't fix it. The temperature is currently at an actual reading of ~76F.

My near future plan is to closely monitor the new additions, and try to stay away from water changes. I want to see if the odor I was experiencing early on in the life of the tank was from the greenish film at the surface of the water (also had air trapped in via a lid) or if I potentially have anoxic zones in my substrate. I have installed a cheap air stone to help with my experiment. If the smell does not return then I can guess that it might have originated from the film. If it does return I can engage the air stone to see if it is the deadly H2S that is causing the smell. Since it is neutralized in the presence of O2, if it then disappears I know if have anoxic zones in my substrate along with low Oxygen levels in the water. (which isn't the end of the world as they can help with denitrification) If the new plants start to suffer, I might have to suspend my H2S experiments and go back to my water change schedule to see if that helps in their growth.

Thanks for reading.

 

Day 38

I recently left for a business trip that lasted around six days. I tested the water parameters before I left, and was still getting a high nitrite reading. Upon return I came back to a tank with some algae growth.



Not the most appealing thing, but not the worst either.
I took some water readings and discovered that the nitrite spike had completely vanished. All readings were at zero. As the tank is heavily planted I didn’t anticipate having a significant nitrate reading as the plants should soak that up. Therefore I concluded that my cycle was complete.
I waited a couple of days to make sure there wasn’t any weird spikes; and then decided to add some shrimp.

I picked up some yellow neos that a local fish shop had to get an established shrimp colony before adding fish. My wife really loved the cherrys, so I purchased 5 yellows and 2 cherries on impulse. Later that night, I realized through research that it probably wasn’t the best idea to mix colors as breeding might cause the shrimp to lose their specifically bred colors. Oh well, I don’t mind the natural type. But good to know for future use.

I initially planned to drip acclimate the shrimp but read some fascinating thoughts on introducing new live stock to tanks. In summary, instead of prolonging the stress and suffering I filtered the shrimp into a net then added them directly to the tank. Ripping the band-aid off quickly sort of theory.

The shrimp took to their home quickly, and began eating the algae immediately after addition. They were very exploratory throughout the tank but no doubt very stressed, which is to be expected. Overnight one of the shrimp shed it’s shell, which I took as a positive sign. Yesterday before work, I checked on my new inhabitants and they were all congregated in one spot near the surface of the tank. JayH , you previously gave me great advice on shrimp and when to add them. Sorry for the bother, but I would very much be interested in your take on this situation as it is very valued.




This was alarming to see. The only explanation I could generate was that there might be lack of oxygen in the tank? I left for work without taking any measures to fix any issues. After work I came home to the same sight. The shrimp were all near the surface not moving much. I then turned on an air stone in the tank. Within several minutes, the shrimp were moving around the tank again. Due to the heavily planted nature of the tank, tank I am a little flummoxed on why there might be lack of oxygen. Pretty strong coincidence, if it wasn’t lack of oxygen.
*note the temperature is actually around 76degrees in the tank, the thermometer is mis-calibrated.

Throughout the night I have the air stone working at half hour intervals with hour breaks to see if this makes a difference. Without light, algae shouldn’t have the chance to grow. Since plants use Oxygen at night, maybe this will also help the plants. I can only conjecture that through the night, all the plants exhausted most of the oxygen from the tank.

I will continue to report my findings in hopes that this is still helpful; and please let me know if you have any suggestions.
Thanks for reading!

 

Day 41

I'll try to keep this post brief as I know no one wants to read my long ramblings. (or short ramblings as the case might be)

I have come to the conclusion that the tank was lacking oxygen. Right after starting up the air pump, not 5 minutes went by before the shrimp became more active. I deduced that the shrimp were probably at the top of the tank as the water is more oxygen rich.

Updates:
I have added 5 more yellow neo shrimp to the tank. Mostly for more shrimp, but also to decrease the chances of the red and yellow breeding. I have become content with mixing the two color neos and have actually embraced the idea of having a majority yellow but a small chance that I get some weird combination or naturals. I think it will be neat to see what I get.

I have adjusted and calibrated the heater. It is now set at around 73 degrees in anticipation of adding fish inhabitants. I will probably go with Celestial Pearl Danios as I completely adore these fish and they more coalesce with the needs of the shrimp temperature wise.

The air pump/stone will continue to work during the night for 30 minute spans with a hour rest in between. The schedule was created with the "fear" (for lack of a better term) of over-oxygenating. It will only run at night because plants use oxygen at that time; and will not run during the day for algae concerns.

I am also strongly considering adding Otocinlus to the tank in the near future. I am currently doing my due diligence in researching these fish. I know that they can be very fragile unfortunately; but I also just love these little guys. I was looking at getting a BN Pleco, but due to the size considerations and the bio-load etc. Ottos just seem the better prospect. Plus I like the Ottos better. Ottos dictate consideration of algae growth. Which seems contradictory to what I am trying to accomplish in this dirted tank: balance. However, if I dose ferts in excess of what the plants use I will not only get algae growth for the Ottos but also reinvigorate the substrate after it loses its nutrients (whenever that is: I've heard 6 months to a year; so I will see for myself) as the soil will soak up some of the ferts. So that could be a harmonious undertaking.



Anyways, as always thanks for taking the time to read. Any ideas or comments are welcomed.
Regards,

 

Day 43

Bad news for this entry. My shrimp are having issues.Through help in a separate thread, I have determined that H2S gas is the culprit.

To summarize the shrimp’s behavior in case this might be useful to others: the shrimp basically have the motor skills of a 1 year old with one leg that is completely intoxicated. Barely any swimming, and when it happens it is very fast and erratic. The shrimp stumble around and some are stagnate. I feel terrible for them.

I have around only 2 or 3 that seem normal, the rest I am expecting the worst. I put out some shrimp pellets and carrots in an effort to draw them out and to get an estimate on how many healthy shrimp I have.

I believe I tried to outthink the customary practices based on some heavy research and it cost me.
1. I made the substrate a little too deep
1a. I made it deeper than the suggested 1.5 inches to allow room for extensive root growth. I know amazon sword roots can dominate a tank, so I tried to make extra accommodations.
2. I knew that I ran the risk of creating anoxic conditions in the substrate by increasing the soil depth
2a. I was alright with that as anoxic zones can help with the denitrification process.
2b. In addition, I estimated that due to the heavily planted nature of the tank, oxygen would take care of any H2S that made it way to the water column as H2S is neutralized in the presence of O2.

It seems as though those assumptions are wrong.

Future plans:
I plan to continually run an air pump 24hours to help with gas exchange
I have to decide if I want to completely start all over or continue to fight the H2S. (Or even continue in the hobby)

Pretty discouraging start to the hobby to say the least.

 

HI cmid21

Some quick advice if I may... Surface tension is how you replenish oxygen inside the aquarium. Without it the aquarium becomes more pond like than actual aquarium. You can create this this tension via an airstone and bubble maker. Or via a spray bar/returning water from a filter.

Rolla

 

HI cmid21

Some quick advice if I may... Surface tension is how you replenish oxygen inside the aquarium. Without it the aquarium becomes more pond like than actual aquarium. You can create this this tension via an airstone and bubble maker. Or via a spray bar/returning water from a filter.

Rolla

Absolutely! Any and all commentary and critiques are very much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Yes, that was a main issue in my tank; therefore I added an air pump/air stone about a week ago to help with dissolving oxygen from the surface.

Day 44

The continued battle with H2S.

Today I am optimistic about my chances of success. I have taken several steps to remedy the situation which I will outline below in case it might help others:

1. A week ago I added an air stone to help add oxygen to the tank; note that this doesn’t directly add oxygen but generates it through the surface agitation
2. I have aerated the substrate to release the H2S gas. I was initially concerned about doing this with shrimp in the tank but I made sure none were close to the poking and made sure to do a water change to add more oxygen.
3. I decreased the temperature slightly, as lower temperatures are able to hold more oxygen. The water is around 72 or so from 76. Added bonus: the shrimp probably enjoy it more.
4. My wood pieces were held down by significant sections of slate. Because I wanted the wood pieces at a certain height, I placed the slate on top of the soil rather than at the bottom of the tank then covered with dirt. (Which is the recommendation) This has created a cap on the substrate which probably created large anoxic zones. I have detached the wood from the slate and retired the use of the slate. Luckily for me, the wood sinks now so I don’t have to figure out another way to sink the wood

I will continue to aerate the soil daily if feasible. It doesn’t seem to affect the shrimp currently in the tank. Frequent water changes are also the plan in order to add oxygen. In addition, I have borrowed a dissolved oxygen meter to check my tank’s parameters. I will test the readings today (water change was yesterday) and in a couple of days with no water changes for comparison. That way I can measure the effectiveness of the air stone.

Last thought:
I’m am completely glad that I decided to do months of research before starting to understand the basic chemistry and biology behind keeping an aquarium. Yes, it probably got me into some trouble by overthinking it, but it has allowed me to respond swiftly and effectively. I have lost only 2 shrimp and don’t anticipate losing much more. Along with research, there are many wonderful people here that have helped me greatly.

A big thanks to everyone, I’ll keep you posted on my progress.

 

Day 50
The war with H2S seems to have been won. I borrowed a H2S detector and multiple checks disclosed a reading of zero. I also borrowed a DO (dissolved oxygen meter). As plants use Oxygen during the night, the time with the least amount of Oxygen should be the morning. The morning readings came out to 7.6ppm and the evening reading (right after a full day of photosynthesis) were around 8.4. Both readings I was really happy with and should be able to handle any H2S making its way to the water column.

Several days ago I picked up one Otocinclus. I know they should be kept in numbers but there was only one full-bellied eating Otto. I drip acclimated the Otto as I know they can be rather fragile. He seemed to take to the tank right away and I observed him grazing on algae.
Yesterday I purchased 10 celestial pearl danios and 4 more Otocinclus, which will round out my tank. No other fish will be added. Immediately the original Otocinclus paired up with one of the new ottos and have been swimming all over the tank together. It is like it is a completely different fish, he looks so happy. I am beginning to suspect that one is male and one female. I am hoping that at least 3 or 4 ottos make it past the 2month threshold.

I have found through research that celestial pearl danios are fairly timid and might not eat for several days or weeks in a new tank. Mine however starting eating the same day. I believe it might have something to do with zero competition for food from other fish.

I have tried to create certain harmonies in my tank. Competition for food was considered. The ottos have the algae, the shrimp have their pellets, and the CPDs have the flakes/pellets/worms. None will hinder or harass the others. In addition, each species does well in the same temperatures (cooler water). The addition of an air stone to stimulate gaseous exchange has boosted algae growth in the tank. This has combatted H2S, but at the aid of algae. The algae in turn will provide the food for the ottos. So win win.

As always, thanks for reading.

 

I am late to the thread, I know, but figured I chime in anyway. Glad to hear things are under control. By now you have probably learned that two inches of dry soil is way too much. Like, way too much, and contributed to the hydrogen sulfide issue. Adding fertilizer to a new Walstad tank is unnecessary, too. Glad to hear you added an airstone (I would just run it 24/7). Need surface agitation to avoid the biofilm on the surface of the water especially during the first several months. And need a lot more plants to soak up all the ammonia and nutrients from the soil

My dirted tank is now almost 5 years old, and I didnt start adding root tabs until about 2 years in. Will subscribe to see how your tank progresses. Share photos .

 

bigdreams , thank you so much for taking the time out of your day to read and respond to my journal. I wasn’t sure if anyone cared or not but figured I would continue in case someone did.
I appreciate your input and kind words. I would be more than appreciative if you provided your thoughts (and more importantly criticisms) no matter how delayed they might seem.

I will definitely provide pictures in the next update. I was a little embarrassed about the condition of the tank and the amount of algae growth after leaving for a vacation. I left it for the ottos, so I will let them have some time to make it more presentable.

Thanks again

 

I am guessing it's brown diatome type algae. If so, every new tank gets this... It will pass, Eventually.

If you are getting a lot of green hair algae, then too much light likely (light/co2/nutrients out of balance). Send pics so we can help.

Dirted tanks are not a "beginner's tank". Even though beginner's can succeed with them (myself included!). Happy to share my experiences. And don't be embarrassed about the pics.

 

Day 52
Wow, what a rough start to the hobby. On Friday, I started with numerous shrimp, 5 otos 10 celestial pearl danios. In three days I’m down to 6 CPDs and 3 otos. The shrimp are fine.

Two otos have perished as I don’t think they were eating. They were on the skinnier side so I was cautiously optimistic about their survival. The other three are doing good.

The CPDs are another story. At first all were fine and were eating. (Feeding frozen baby broke shrimp) Then about two a day died (one at a time about half a day apart). Same thing happens everytime. The danio can’t control their buoyancy and sink. They are dead within the hour of that happening. I thought maybe it was a bladder issue so I fed the remaining 7 danios peas last night. 6 came toward the surface and the remaining on stayed amongst the plants. I did witness it getting some peas however. One of them died tonight shortly after feeding.

The shrimp and otos seem fine so no signs that H2S is to blame. I can only deduce that it was either: a bad batch of CPDs or ph shock or stress. One day all are fine then all of a sudden one dies. I don’t get it and it is very frustrating.

bigdreams, you are correct. I am going through the diatoms phase currently. Hopefully that passes soon. I figure it’s time for an updated picture.



I guess we will see what tomorrow brings.

 

Do you have an API Master test kit? Liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH? You should be testing daily at this point given what's going on in the tank. My guess is the tank is releasing massive amounts of ammonia/nitrite or you pH is all over the place ,etc. May need more details on the type of topsoil you used (brand name etc) to make sure we didn't miss anything there.

 

Some things I would do, do liquid test and see what the water params are. I would consider strongly doing daily water changes if the numbers look bad.

You should let the hornwort "explode" in the tank. No pruning hornwort until you can't see your fish!! Got that? That plant will save your fish if there's ammonia in the tank . It grows insanely fast if u let it.

If your pH is above 7 any ammonia is toxic. My fish tank is at 6.4 pH , maybe lower. Not ideal but that's where it is. (Ideal for my fish actually but can crash if I am not careful). Ammonia is not toxic at that pH. So I am lucky in that way. If you pH is higher than 6.8 I believe , you gotta be careful.

You used that black sand stuff. I used ecocomplete. It's a pain to plant in but it's really good in letting water circulate in the substrate. I am concerned you sand may be too compact and not let water circulate below. You may need to poke the substrate to get some gas exchange going. If you smell rotten eggs you know what's going on. Get some Malaysian trumpet snails they really help