First fish tank: 10 Gallon

Gingerbaby9
  • #1
Hey there,
I have a 10 gallon with 2 dalmatian mollys, 2 balloon belly mollys, 2 albino cory catfish, and 1 sunburst platy. I started with one more female platy but she died shortly after bringing her home. It was bittersweet since after removing her from the tank I realized she had left me nearly 10 fry! I have since gotten a 3 gallon tank that I'm cycling now. My question is will it be suitable for the fry until I can get my 50 gallon up and running?
 
Peacefantasy
  • #2
Your 10 gallon is really overstocked. And the cories need to be in a group of six in at least 20 gallon long tank.
I think you need to leave the fry in your main tank and let nature take its course. Unless you want to keep the 10 gallon for fry

How close are you to getting your 50 gallon cycled and ready?
 
Gingerbaby9
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
I'm in the process of moving, I'll be in my new home by early May. Then I can set up the 50 gallon.

How many should be in the 10 gal?
 
Jaxsco
  • #4
How many of what?
 
Gingerbaby9
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
Mollys I suppose since that's what I have the most of.
 
el337
  • #6
Welcome to Fishlore!

I'd move everything over to the 50g. None of the fish you have are suitable for the 10g. If you're not planning on having any more fry, I'd rehome the female mollies and then up your corys.

Is the 10 gallon cycled?

Edit: Just saw that it was your other platy that left the fry. Are any of your mollies females?
 
Gingerbaby9
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Yes three females and one male balloon belly. So you think the corys can stay if they had more mates?
 
Jaxsco
  • #8
And the cories need to be in a group of six in at least 20 gallon long tank.

A 10 gallon is too small for any Cories.
 
el337
  • #9
Yes three females and one male balloon belly. So you think the corys can stay if they had more mates?

Not in the 10g. Everyone will have to go to the 50 gallon and then you'll want to up your corys to at least 6.
 
Gingerbaby9
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Ok thank you
 
DaltonR121
  • #11
Hey all,

I have been doing research for a few weeks on fish for a few weeks now until I finally came across a deal on a 55 gal. tank! I got a 55 gal. tank, stand, hood, lighting, extra bulbs, air pump, two filtration systems, decorations, and other little extras including fish!

She is all set up and running now! Of course here come the problems haha. There are so many outlets for research out there so I have done a lot of looking on my own but I thought maybe someone one-on-forum help would be great!

I'll try not to leave anything out!
- Tank was set up with new conditioned water Saturday with Aqueon filter and a heater
- I replaced one of the two filters. I left one old one in for the sake of bacteria growth.
- We placed the fish we received (2 angels, 1 opaline gourami, 1 rainbow shark, 4 platies, 2 black mollies, 1 cichlid, and 3 that I think are loaches. They look like tiny eels but upon research, I think they are loaches) in the tank
- I used aquarium sand from LFS for substrate
- A buddy of mine brought a fake plant straight from his cycled tank for me to throw in to try to promote bacteria.
- All readings from Tetra Easy Strips have shown nitrates, nitrites, and chlorine at 0 or very close to it. I'm sure the Chlorine was 0. Water has been very soft. The alkalinity and pH have been ridiculously high. I have tried easy balance to straighten this out.
- After one fish acting somewhat lethargic this morning, I read on one forum that at the beginning of cycling the tank, water changes are the best idea for straightening out your pH. I did a 50% water change this evening and am still getting the same results. The fish do seem very active and happy at this point though! They seem to be acclimating great. Rainbow Shark seems to have established himself as alpha and is somewhat territorial but everyone seems good!

Do you think the sand could contribute to the pH being so high? Was that a bad substrate choice? Should I continue to do big water changes every few days?

I know I would like to invest in the liquid tests ASAP. I also plan on getting a Cascade 1000 Canister filter and a better heater in the very, very near future as well.

Any constructive criticism? Thank you all in advance! Can't wait for your responses!
 
Bithimala
  • #12
Do you happen to know the pH in the tank when you got it? Also, what is your pH? You're saying it's really high, but that could mean any number of things.

Unless you used something like cichlid sand that intentionally raises the pH, it shouldn't really have had an effect on it.
 
DaltonR121
  • #13
According to the scale that came with those test strips, it looks around 8.4. I'm not sure what the pH was in the tank when the previous owner had it.
 
Bithimala
  • #14
Wow ok, that is high. Is it that high out of the tap as well? I don't know if any of the fish would have issues with a higher ph, most will adjust. You might be better off just leaving it higher for now instead of trying to adjust it. Ph swings will usually be more stressful than a higher ph.
 
DaltonR121
  • #15
It is that high out of the tap, unfortunately. And 8.4 is the highest reading I see on the test kit scale.

Maybe I should conduct an experiment in a 5 gallon bucket full of tap water with the easy balance and see how much it takes to lower the pH? I'm afraid the results wouldn't compare to the actual aquarium because of the filtration, temperature, etc. Plus, like you said, a swing could just hurt more than it would help. I guess water changes, keeping an eye on the test strips, and closely monitoring the fish would be the best options until this thing gets further into the cycle?
 
Shel
  • #16
I would recommend asking the previous owner what their PH was at if you can. The additional knowledge wouldn't hurt. When there is a significant PH difference, you're gonna want to make sure the fish will adapt, and be comfortable ((most will)), and make sure you can slowly acclimate the fish. Best to research what works best, with what you have. As Bithimala said, PH swings are very stressful. And depending on your filtration, and what you have in in, it may just suck up whatever you add in. Highly recommend the API freshwater master test kit. They are easy to use, and easy to read, and are very reliable. My tap is between 7.8-8PH. I have a Discus tank, and will usually do 50% tap, and 50% RO water when I add in new water. I do strictly RO water with my SSS Crystal Cherry Shrimp. With my community tank, I just use Tap water. I have a pleco, guppies, mollies, and loaches in that one.
 
DaltonR121
  • #17
Well, my fiancé texted me and told me we lost one of the Dalmatian Platies this morning. RIP little guy

I hate that I have to be away from my tank for 10 hours a day while I'm working during this stage. I'm going to be checking the water again as soon as I get home this evening.
 
Tk82
  • #18
I would invest in an apI freshwater test kit...way more accurate than test strips.. And I would be careful with any ph down additives you use
 
Mom2some
  • #19
You got rid of one of the filters... so at the very least you are going to experience a mini-cycle. Can you pick up an API liquid test kit on the way home? Water changes are going to be the way to go for now I would think to keep the ammonia & nitrites under control. Maybe get some Seachem Stability (do you already have Seachem Prime to detoxify the ammonia and dechlorinate the water) to help boost your tank through this mini-cycle?
@CindiL is the guru for fish-in odd cycles, especially with pH challenges... so CindI - do your magic! Are you going to get tired me calling you in when I know I would be way over my head giving advice?
 
CindiL
  • #20
Hi, welcome to fishlore

I agree with everyone to not use Easy Balance. It would be very helpful for you to pick up the API kit today, the strips are super inaccurate and only give a ballpark reading at best. Your fish would be fine in a ph of 8.4 (especially the livebearers) but we don't really know if that's what it is.

I also agree to pick up Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability while you're there.

Your alkalinity and ph are high....your gh is low? What would you say the number looks to be? Are you on a water softener?
If so, your fish cannot live in that kind of water with basically 0 magnesium and calcium but we can talk more about that later if you have a water softener or if instead your tap is just low though I wouldn't expect it to be.

Am assuming you removed the old substrate in addition to tossing one of the filter cartridges? Like Mom2some said, you're probably experiencing a mini-cycle and most likely have ammonia in your tank which will easily kill your fish at that ph. Another good reason to pick up Prime or Amquel Plus, any water conditioner that states it detoxifies ammonia in addition to chlorine and chloramines.

Once you get the kit, test your tap for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph, then test your tank for all of them as well. Post them back here and we can go from there.

What is your tank temperature also?

You got rid of one of the filters... so at the very least you are going to experience a mini-cycle. Can you pick up an API liquid test kit on the way home? Water changes are going to be the way to go for now I would think to keep the ammonia & nitrites under control. Maybe get some Seachem Stability (do you already have Seachem Prime to detoxify the ammonia and dechlorinate the water) to help boost your tank through this mini-cycle?
@CindiL is the guru for fish-in odd cycles, especially with pH challenges... so CindI - do your magic! Are you going to get tired me calling you in when I know I would be way over my head giving advice?

Ha ha no. It saves me from searching
 
DaltonR121
  • #21
Water temperature has been pretty constant at 78 degrees.

Unfortunately, I didn't check this before and I went ahead and ordered the test kit as well as Seachem Prime, and the new Cascade 1000 Canister filter. I was thinking I could get by on the strips for a few more days but that was obviously a bad choice

No water softener unless it is coming from what I have been using. I am currently at work still but I used Readistart and I don't remember the name of the water conditioner with every 5 gallon bucket I filled and then siphoned back into the tank.
 
Bithimala
  • #22
You should be ok with the strips for a few days. They aren't very reliable, but since you've got the other on the way, that's a good thing.
 
DaltonR121
  • #23
And I want to say again, thank you all for all your help and the warm welcoming! It is much appreciated!
 
CindiL
  • #24
Are you in a house or an apartment? Can you find out if there is a water softener?
Also, what number are you showing the GH to be at?
 
DaltonR121
  • #25
I am in a house. You mean a water softener through the tap water or in the conditioner I used?

According to the strips (I feel like this has to be inaccurate) it is between 0-25GH from the looks of it.
 
Bithimala
  • #26
Through the tap water, like, if you are on a well, people will have a water softener which is basically a machine that removes stuff from the water. It's sort of a huge people filter
 
CindiL
  • #27
I am in a house. You mean a water softener through the tap water or in the conditioner I used?

According to the strips (I feel like this has to be inaccurate) it is between 0-25GH from the looks of it.

Usually when you have high alkalinity and ph but low GH then that person is using a mechanical water softener in their house that exchanges hard water (calcium and magnesium) with sodium ions which softens the water. Where the water comes into the house there is usually a container with salt. This would be your water softener.

The mollies and platies need a GH of at least 150ppm so you can see your GH is way too low for them.
 
DaltonR121
  • #28
Well, I am still patiently waiting for my test kit so I don't have any exact numbers for you Everyone seems to be doing great though!

I was hoping you could help me identify one of little wet family members!

I THINK it's a loach of some kind!



 
Aichmalotizo
  • #29
Well, I am still patiently waiting for my test kit so I don't have any exact numbers for you Everyone seems to be doing great though!

I was hoping you could help me identify one of little wet family members!

I THINK it's a loach of some kind!
Looks like a dojo loach to me! What's the temp set at? They're relatively Coldwater species, don't like it above 75, prefer it around 68-70 I believe.
 
CindiL
  • #30
I've never had a loach but TexasDomer will probably know.
 
TexasDomer
  • #31
Looks like a dojo to me. You have some stocking incompatibilities (i.e. dojos and angels), so if you want to discuss them, we can help you fix them
 
DaltonR121
  • #32
TexasDomer That would be much appreciated!! We received these fish with the tank and she really seemed adamant about her fish so I never would have guessed there would be a stock problem but there definitely is.

At the moment there are:
- 3 Dojos
- 1 Rainbow Shark
- 1 Opaline Gourami
- 1 Cichlid
- 3 Platies
- 2 Black Mollies
- 2 Angels

We're waiting to be approved for a Facebook group for aquarists in East Texas in hopes of re-homing the Cichlid. I just don't like his temperament with the other smaller fish. I feel he's placing unnecessary stress on everyone else in the tank.

My fiancé and I would also LOVE to have a Figure 8 Puffer. From my research, it seems that they like brackish water. Are any of my stock okay with brackish water parameters? Would I have to reconfigure the whole tank or...? What's my best options here?

Also, what part of Texas are you in?? Bryan College Station here!
 
TexasDomer
  • #33
Whoa, small world! I'm in BCS too! If you ever need any help/plants/mystery snails/equipment, let me know! (Can't private message until you get 50 posts though).

Do you know what species of cichlid?

So you have both subtropical and tropical fish. I would pick one group and rehome the others, or you can split the tank with a divider, make it brackish, and keep a Figure 8. They're best kept by themselves due to aggression, but they, like all puffers, are great fish to keep. If you split your tank, you can put mollies on the other side (so rehome everyone but the mollies).

Subtropical:
3x Dojos
Rehome everyone else. Can stock with other subtropical fish (like a large school of white cloud mountain minnows)

Tropical:
1 Rainbow Shark
1 Opaline Gourami
1 Cichlid
3 Platies
2 Black Mollies
2 Angels
Within this tropical group, you can keep everyone after you rehome the cichlid, just watch for aggression. You have room to add more fish. Or you can rehome the ones you don't want and we can help you stock new fish.
 
Koniucha
  • #34
Sorry to hijack, just curious what size tank would a figure 8 puffer fish need?
 
TexasDomer
  • #35
They only get around 3", so a 20 gal should suffice. Bigger is always better though!
 
jdhef
  • #36
Can't private message until you get 50 posts though).

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You cannot Private Message until you have 50 posts, but you can visitor message. Just keep in mind any member can see your visitor messages.
 
DaltonR121
  • #37
Alright, all. My API kit is here and I am very disappointed. I'll post a picture of what I've got but it looks like I don't have ammonia, nitrate, or nitrate it seems. I think the pH is between 8.6 or 8.8. I would think I've got plenty enough bioload.

What should I do?

Order is Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH.
 
Koniucha
  • #38
Well, I am still patiently waiting for my test kit so I don't have any exact numbers for you Everyone seems to be doing great though!

I was hoping you could help me identify one of little wet family members!

I THINK it's a loach of some kind!
What a sweet face!
 
DaltonR121
  • #39
So it was an eventful weekend. I definitely made some mistakes and learned a lot.

My API Master Test Kit came in yesterday. I have been watching my water parameters like a hawk. My new Cascade 1000 filter came in as well. We also decided we didn't really like the sand and figured we were hardly even close to being cycled so if we were going to make a change, now would be the time. So here is where it went wrong...

In my excitement to use the new filter, we did a 50% water change, siphoned up all the sand, put the gravel in, took the HOB filter off, and installed new canister filter. I tested my water parameters and as you would figure, 0s all the way around. pH at 8.4. We then started to get a lot of foamy bubbles and fish were hanging towards the top and just acting funny in general. After doing as much research as I could, quickly, I put the HOB filter back, unhooked canister filter, and dosed with Prime. This worked as a good temporary fix. I was afraid of an ammonia spike. That probably wasn't it but it was just one of those fears that I constantly have running through my mind. I didn't react quickly enough to grab a cup and get a water sample before I dosed with Prime.

I think the bubbles were coming from not rinsing the gravel enough. I did a 100% water change first thing this morning. I rinsed the gravel very thoroughly. I also rinsed everything in the canister filter very, very well for good measure. I now have the HOB filter going as well as the canister. This took care of the foamy bubbles. Water is slightly cloudy but looks good. As of 7:30 this evening, I had 0.25 for Ammonia. I used EasyBalance and got pH down to 8.2. I have used recommended dose for my tank. I'm not going to throw anymore chemicals in it for the pH at the moment. The pH out of the tap is 8.8.

So I tested it again 5 hours later and I have straight 0s again. I think I remember reading somewhere that the AC in a canister filter helps eliminate ammonia. Should I remove it for cycling purposes or will my ammonia jump enough that it will allow me to start cycling even with the AC if this is correct?

Should I just keep an eye on the pH and as long as it remains at 8.2, stay away from the chemicals? I'm going to get my hands on some Seachem Stability but the only options I have here are Petco and Petsmart and I haven't seen it at either. I think I will have to order it.

What would be my best course of action here?
 
CindiL
  • #40
You can test with prime. It will read the same with or without prime. I think people get confused on this. Prime puts ammonia into a detoxified state of ammonium. The API Master test kit measures Total Ammonia so it will still pick up an ammonium reading even though it is in its non-toxic form.

Dose prime daily for the full volume of the tank while you have any ammonia. At your PH and anyone around 8.0, even .25 is toxic.

Yes, stay away from the chemicals, I think 8.2 is fine.

Good thing you put the HOB back on. Its always a good idea to have two running in case one fails there is always another one that can handle the nitrification,

Did you figure out if you're building is on a water softener? Important to find this out. I guess either way you'll need to order some Seachem Replenish. It is a liquid pre-mixed calcium/magnesium mixture that you add to the tank. It only raises GH, not KH or PH so you don't have to worry about those.

You can order it through Amazon and while you're at it, order the Stability. Until then if you dose prime daily you'll be ok up to about 1.0 ammonia and nitrites (added together). If it gets close to 1.0 do a large water change.
 

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