First Breeding Attempt - Green Aeneus Corys

Discussion in 'Breeding Fish' started by Culprit, Apr 17, 2017.

  1. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    Hey guys! I just got, 4 days ago, the rest of my green aeneus corys, rounding out my school to 10. I would love to breed them now before I get my ember tetras and GBR. That way I don't have to set up a entirely different tank. Actually... Could I put them in a breeder box with a airstone underneath? Would that work? I'm trying to plan this out before I get eggs and panic.

    So I know to induce spawning you do a large (how large?) water change thats several degrees cooler, then watch for the t spawning. Will the corys themselves eat the eggs? Will they raise them by themselves since there are no other fish in the tank atm? Will my MTS or nerite snails eat the eggs?
  2. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    The cories themselves will eat the eggs, they do not care for them, like most cichlids will. you will have to separate the eggs and resulting fry from the adults as they are an easy snack. And they need good clean water to grow up well. Feed really well a week or two before the large water change, they way the females can get fat with eggs.

  3. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    Alright, like one pellet apeice? Does it matter that I got them recently? They seem pretty settled in. So I need a breeder box and an airstone right? Feed them really well for one week then do how large of a water change? With water 2 degrees cooler or more like 5?

    Then as soon as they breed remove the eggs and put them in the breederbox with the airstone under them. Do 25% wcs every day for good water quality. How soon could they go out with the adults?

  4. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    Put the airstone in the net or box with them, make sure to have some moss or other cover (a net is better because the fry are tiny when they first hatch out) in for the babies. I drop a pinch of pellets in with my albino cories (there are five adults, every time I've tried to add more to their shoal the new ones have always died off). A separate ten gallon to move the babies cories into after they have been hatched out for a week would be best, it took mine about two months before they were of a good enough size for me to be willing to put them in with their parents.
    I would hold off water changes for the first week as they are tiny (think pen tip tiny), crushed pellets, bbs, and other baby food will help them.

    My adult female (she is only one of two females that I have seen laying eggs, she is larger than the other) I had for a while because I got her as a young cory before she was old enough to spawn. She regularly spawns at least once a month. If they are adult sized they should give you no big issue with spawning.

  5. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

  6. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    You'd want to extend the time they are in the net to two weeks is you are switching in with skirt tetra. But at that time they could go in with just adults cories (you may still lose some to cannibalism but not as many as you would to skirt tetra).
    That's the exact type I have, works great, the hole are perfect for raising them without them falling through.

    The ground pellets and flakes would be good (I honestly just dropped in a couple whole pellets mornings ng and night after a week, had 15 survivors from a batch of about 50 eggs, though I'll admit to accidentally killing several when moving them into their grow out tank, I moved about 25 living babies at two weeks old into a grow out tank and fed them daily with crushed snails, pellets, and fry flake food.
    They need the water circulated, an air line running full blast will allow that to happen, the eggs go on moss and slowly tossed by an air pump rated for a 20 gallon (it has a split so it is the equivalent of a ten gallon flow).
  7. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    So... I need:

    1 20 gallon air pump with air stone
    1 breeder net

    Put the net on the side, with the air pump under it, or in it? What if they lay their eggs on something else... Like a sword leaf? Do I then just lay the sword leaf in? Otherwise if they are layed on the glass then scrape them off (how?) and lay them on one of my sheets of moss in the breeder net. Do daily 25% wcs for optimal water quality.

    And then just get them to spawn, then keep them in the net two weeks and put them in the with corys. Is that two weeks from when they hatch? How do you tell if they mold or are not fertilized?
  8. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    Two weeks from hatching. While small they are not bite sized anymore.
    Air pump in it otherwise the bubbles won't get through the net to circulate them.
    I trim the sword leaf or gently roll them off with my thumb (if my nail is long enough I will scrape the eggs off carefully *they bust somewhat easily, so a razor blade might be better* from the glass or use moss to get them off by rubbing the ballet moss over them).
    the non fertile eggs turn white, the fertilized ones will stay a clear or tan color, after a few days you should see eye balls in the eggs, they take 5 days (albinos did at least for me) to hatch out, so you have close to 20 days before you can put them with adults (they should be close to a half inch or under that size but over a 1/4 inch).
  9. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    So scrape them off with a razer blade. Use moss to get them off? Whats ballet moss? Do they just unstick from the glass and stick to the moss? Would flame moss work? So in the box.
  10. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    Ball of, I'm on my phone and it thinks it knows what I'm typing lol. Flame or any other type will work. They should unstick right after they are laid.
    If it has been longer you'll need a razor blade or a sharp fingernail (gently with both options).
  11. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    Lol perfect! I will order the net and an airstone and pump and line and then start fattening them up lol
  12. SoocoldWell Known MemberMember

    ive scraped mine off with a thumbnail, but havent sucessfully hatched any. (havent really been trying) the moss goes into the breeder net giving them something to eat with the fish food. My led lighting has a cloud and lightning feature, ive had to disable the lightning, its induced the female to lay eggs every other day.
  13. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    Lol. Were they fertilized? No scraping off with a fingernail here :nailbiting::rolleyes:

    Would I need an airstone in there for flow if I put the box in front of my HOB? I could either use my aqueon QF 30 or my AC50. If the AC50 I could reduce the flow so its not blasting. Would that work instead of an airstone?
  14. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    What should I do for food? I have NLS Thera A+ .5mm and shrimp pellets. Should I order some baby food like Hikari first bites or liquifry or something?
  15. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    If it can go through the box without sinking or pushing it around that should work, my most recent spawn I hatched out in a small container doing daily water changes on it with methylene blue in it, they hatched out fine (meth blue was only put in once after eggs where collected it was floated in a heated tank).
    Crushed what you feed the adults should work (so crush the pellets up the first week and sprinkle it in, after that point you can just drop the whole pellet in if it softens quickly. i use Wardley shrimp pellets, all my fish like them and im okay with the ingredients in them.

    (Dont use methylene blue where you want to keep a cycle. Enclosed containers if floating in another tank.)
  16. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    I use omega one shrimp pellets.

    So just those adult pellets ground really fine will work? How soon should I feed them? When they start swimming around? How do you tell when they hatch? So I don't need special food for them? I think I will just use the filter for flow. I heard some people saying put in some used filter media and they will eat off it as well... would that work?
  17. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    They will eat from the moss.
    They should start hatching out on the fifth day after they are laid (you should see little clear movements in the container you use. They are tiny and clear when they hatch feed as soon as you see them.
  18. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    So don't feed them when they haven't hatched yet?

    But I still need to feed them the ground up pellet right? And surely it wouldn't hurt to put some filter media in there too right?
  19. McasellaFishlore VIPMember

    Why would you feed unmatched eggs? You can feed you adults like normal, just feed the babies after they hatch.
    Just make sure they can't get stuck in the media. The babies get the ground pellets.
  20. CulpritFishlore VIPMember

    I heard people saying that they used up their yolk in 24 hours.

    Alright as soon as i get the net I'm set

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