First Aquarium - Complete Beginner!

HI Everyone,

I thought that reading through all the guides and suggestions people have here would inform me well enough how to proceed with my first aquarium build without an account. Truth is the more I read and learn, the more daunting the entire process is becoming and this is before even buying anything.

So here I am... I may not be asking the right kinds of questions so please bear with me. I'm very much learning.

Tank
1. Start with a larger tank
- I originally was looking at 20 gallons but I seem to be persuaded to go for a 30 gallons based on guides

- They're all shapes and sizes... I suppose this is where the types of fish depends on the shape of tank. Right?

2. Filter
- I was suggested by a friend of mine to always get a anaerobic filter

- Looking at guides, there are other types of filters and I've personally never seen more than 1 so...

-- which should I go for or are there other suggestions?
- Some say air pump is cosmetic, some say its needed, which is it?

3. Heating and Lighting
- Both 2x 200W or 4x 100W seems reasonably priced...

-- is this overkill? Am I overthinking this?

4. Future stuff?
- I think I have an understanding of basic equipment needed for general maintenance and the importance of not letting anything touch soap.... is this overkill? Like rinsing things out really really well should do the trick right? I imagine sometimes soap is needed for bacteria right? Unless I should just be using peroxide as a disinfectant?
-

5. pH? Nitrogen Cycle? Gas Pockets?! oh my
- I understand the importance of regulating all of these and making sure things go well. Clean the fish tank at least once a week, replace 25% of water once a week, condition the water before putting in. The guide recommends every other day to check on water pH, this sounds like a costly ordeal and more devastating if I don't upkeep this. How much leniency is there on this?
- Clean the substrate often, agitate it and vacuum up poop

Am I missing anything else before even getting to the next part?


Piecing things together
- Alright assuming that I have a decent understanding of everything else listed above, There's the build portion. Clean the substrate until the water is clear. I prefer using sand as I heard it is easier maintenance but how much of toxic gas pockets do I have to worry about?

- Fish type combinations.
My only experience has been with Bettas and this was when I was a kid. So I have a bit of preference for them... I am hoping to have a combination of maybe 3 types of fish though I'm depending on you guys for guidance on suggested limits

* I'd like some algae eaters to help maintain with algae. Shrimp seems cool but they sound awfully not-hearty and susceptible to being eaten by other fish?

* schooling fish seem cool but there's only so much you can put in a tank and is 30 gallons enough room?

* What other fish can I look at?



Thank you everyone for helping me out. Any tiny bit of advice is helpful. Just not sure how to wrap my head around the whole thing

One combination I was thinking of is Betta, Silver tip Tetras (since they school very tightly and like to follow your finger - seen it in videos), and red cherry shrimps.

Heard that shrimps can be eaten by bettas so it can be hit and miss right? Can I do more? Sorry for double post

 

For most fish the longer the tank the better , a 20 gallon long is a good beginner tank , if you have the money and space a 30 gallon would be even better. 30 gallon is where you can start housing two groups of schooling fish.

anything under 55g, a hang on the back filter is fine such as a AquaClear HOB. when dealing with HOB it's best to get atleast 10× the amount of gallons for filtration meaning if you go with a 30 gallon then 30g×10=300gal/h so a AquaClear 70 (300gal/h) would be good filtration.

an air pump isn't absolutely necessary, it does add extra surface agitation which will then create more oxygen , but majority of the time your HOB will supply enough surface agitation.

for cleaning , you can do anywhere from 30% to 50% but it must be done atleast once a week to keep parameters in check. You clean clean the aquarium glass with a sponge , clean ornaments as you please but do not clean it with soap or any other products just water. Also very important every so often to clean your filter media , sponges , bio rings and whatever else you may use in AQUARIUM WATER not tap or it will kill off beneficial bacteria

regarding stocking in a 30g

I would do

3 Honey Gouramis
2 Bolivian Rams(male/female)
8 Harlequin Rasbora
8 Neon Tetras
8 Panda or Peppered Corys
1 Bristlenose pleco

Me and Other members can suggest other stocking options depending on what you like.

before adding any fish I would do a fish-less cycle, using pure ammonia and testing every so often with a API freswater master test kit and readings when tank is fully cycled should be 0 ammonia 0 nitrites and 20ppm or less nitrates to be ready for fish.

Also did I miss anything?

 

If you can get a 30 gallon I say go for it! More fish that way. You could get a nice school of smaller tetras or other fish in there. In a 30 gallon you could have a Bristlenose or Clown Pleco as well. Below 30 gallons I recommend just shrimp and snails. For a top dweller you could do a Gourami perhaps?

While cycling perhaps test water everyday. My 10 gallon is cycled and I check my water once a week. You want stable pH over perfect pH. Get the API Master kit. Lasts for a long time so while more expensive to outright buy than test strips it is more cost effective and accurate.

Do not let fish stuff touch soap. At all. I have soaked decorations and plants in a water/peroxide solution before with lots of rinsing in dirty tank water after.

You could do a Hang on Back filter for this size tank. I recommend AquaClear. Pay attention to gallons per hour. You want 8-10x tank size so for a 30 gallon you want 300 gph. One heater should be ok for a 20-30 gallon. Temperature will be a factor in picking your fish as well as tank size and temperament.

 

1) 30 gallons is an ideal size for a beginner. Big enough for a few fish and reasonably stable water but not so big that water changes are a chore.

Longer tanks are best for most fish but some fish (like angelfish) get tall so need a tall tank

2) Internal filters are pretty cheap and would be fine for this tank size. I mostly use internal filters. Canister filters are excellent but more expensive.

Air pumps with oxygen stones are beneficial to the fish however they are not essential if you have plenty of surface movement with your filter.

4) Along with the tank, heater, filter and light you will need a good test kit (the API Freshwater master test kit is great), water conditioner, fish food, a siphon, gravel or sand, decoration and a 5 gallon bucket.

Do not use soap or disinfectant for cleaning fish stuff. Just use hot water.

5) Test the water in your tank weekly for the first few months after cycling for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and Ph. Ammonia and nitrite should be 0, nitrate should be 20 or less and Ph should stay the same.

40-60% water changes weekly is great but some people do less. I do water changes on most of my tanks at least twice a week

Don't worry about gas pockets unless the sand is really deep.

Here are a couple of ideas for stocking a 30 gallon
1 betta
10 kuhlI loaches
1 clown pleco
3 nerite snails (excellent algae eaters)
2 rabbit snails
possibly 10 amano shrimp depending on your betta's temperament

or
2 honey gouramis
12 neon tetras or 10 skirt tetras or 10 zebra danios
10 panda cories
1 bristlenose pleco
2 nerite snails
10 amano shrimp

or
1 angelfish
10 rummynose tetras or cherry barbs
8-10 bronze cories
3 nerite snails

 

Wow thanks everyone for the tips! I suppose I underestimated the potential of a 30 gallon tank.

Now to do some research on each of the fishies listed.

BottomDweller - you had mentioned that gas pockets isn't something to worry about unless the sand is deep. I was intending on doing a cascading landscape where its taller in the back than the front, is this ill advised?

 

Welcome . I'm a beginner myself only having gotten into fish keeping for a year now. I have a 10 gallon with a betta and a nerite snail.

 

Wow thanks everyone for the tips! I suppose I underestimated the potential of a 30 gallon tank.

Now to do some research on each of the fishies listed.

BottomDweller - you had mentioned that gas pockets isn't something to worry about unless the sand is deep. I was intending on doing a cascading landscape where its taller in the back than the front, is this ill advised?

Up to about 1" should be fine. If you're really worried about it get some Malaysian trumpet snails or rabbit snails which bury through the sand and stir up any gas pockets.

 

I think for your fish you should get mollies, guppies, and platys. There are so many different kinds of each of them and they're super hearty. When I first got my tank I got really fancy expensive fish that were not very hearty and they all died. And aquarium snails do an amazing job keeping your glass clean and they're super cool. I currently have sand in my aquarium and it is super hard to clean. I find gravel much much easier to clean. Every time I clean it I suck up so much sand and some sort of algae grows under the sand. But if you really want it just for the looks I'm sure you can handle it. Also, I suggest that you get your tank and let it run with the filter for about a week before you buy fish. And last, always have water dechlorinated. I have two 5 gallon home depot buckets and one always has water in it. It just makes it much easier to do water changes. Anytime one of my fish look a little off I do a 20% water change and they usually look better the next day. When you do get fish do a 10% water change every couple of days. It just helps prevent diseases and bad water quality. I hope I sort of helped and your aquarium works great!

 

As for sand, I would recommend a dark substrate... since fish poop and algae can really be seen on the lighter stuff. Imo it brings out the colours of the fish and the plants. Also sand is way less of a hassle when cleaning, all you need to do is hover the siphon over the sand and it will pick everything up. With sand, the fish poop and other things don't fall through the gaps like it does in gravel. The only hard thing with sand is that there are gas pockets and planting small things can be harder. Sand is also good for corys. I used the word sand way too much...

 

There's not much I can say that hasn't been said. I have a 29 gal as well and it's been going well. If I were to start over I would figure out what the main fish was that I wanted the most and what look I was wanting.

Do you like schooling fish, shoaling or loners?
Schoolers are like a flock of birds flying as a group, examples are cardinal tetras, harlequin rasboras and white cloud mount minnows.
Shoalers are like kids on a playground. They swim together in chaos. Guppies, Platy and mollies are shoalers.
Loners either need to be the only one of their species or don't want any friends. Common example is male betta.

You can get a school and a loner or 2 schools with or without loners or a tank of shoalers. Some have a full tank of guppies and the males are quite pretty.

Whatever you do, don't go to the store and settle for something else because they don't have what you want in stock. If you're not close to a store, call beforehand and see if they'll hold them until you get there.

 

Would recommend sand over gravel every time. As stated above don't push your siphon in as that will suck your sand out just hover above the surface.

As for running filter for a week before putting fish in this actually does nothing at all you either need to decide on fish in cycle or fishless cycle. Most people do fishless but I have always done fish in for 30yrs and not had a problem but I keep larger tanks 50gal is my smallest with fish and I will start with a small fish for a month and very slowly build up only adding 1 or 2 fish a month till I know the bacteria can catch up fast.
Once your tank is stable I only check ph once a month but still check my ammonia cycle each week.

I am not going to give fish suggestions as I generally keep larger fish except my 55 which I keep guppies, shrimp, snails and bn plecos.
With filters the same as I have large tanks and fish I use canisters and so on and have over filtration, but I have used hob when stating out and they work great.
I would also recommend live plants they will make your fish keeping much easier as they help make fish comfortable and will also help keep levels in check.

Hope some of my info helps even if most of it was just agreeing with people

 

Welcome, from another newbie!

Lots of great tips already... one thing I'll mention that I haven't seen explicitly yet is, while your pH from the tap is important to know, it doesn't necessarily dictate your fish or plant choices. It's more important to keep a stable pH -- sudden changes are bad -- than to chase a specific number. That being said, it's good to read around places like this forum to see which fish can handle a wide range of pH values. Bettas are really adaptable, for example.

 

You already received really great advice.
I personally like canisters over hobs. I hate the waterfall effect, and like the fsct with a csnister I can direct how the water is circulated. I don't like a bunch of equipment taking away from the look of the tank, you can hide a canister, in my opinion canister filters are easier to maintain and less maintenance (except for a sponge filter).
As far as testing your water, as a beginner I suggest that you test once a week. But as you get more experieence, you will get to the point you rarely test. I test my water about once every 3 months. I would go longer in between testing, but I do every three months just to make sure the city hasn't made any changes to the water supply.
You are getting a lot if suggestions for your "run of the mill fish" that you get at the lfs. Don't pigeon hole yourself into just these fish. There are so many other fish that are better and different than what you will find at the lfs.
For example check out Lake Tanganyika Shell Dweller Cichlids.

 

Would recommend sand over gravel every time. As stated above don't push your siphon in as that will suck your sand out just hover above the surface.

As for running filter for a week before putting fish in this actually does nothing at all you either need to decide on fish in cycle or fishless cycle. Most people do fishless but I have always done fish in for 30yrs and not had a problem but I keep larger tanks 50gal is my smallest with fish and I will start with a small fish for a month and very slowly build up only adding 1 or 2 fish a month till I know the bacteria can catch up fast.
Once your tank is stable I only check ph once a month but still check my ammonia cycle each week.

Sorry but, fish in cycle or fishless cycle? What is that?

Welcome, from another newbie!

It's more important to keep a stable pH -- sudden changes are bad -- than to chase a specific number.

Oh god something else to worry about by the fish. lol - at least this one makes sense to me

You already received really great advice.
I personally like canisters over hobs. I hate the waterfall effect, and like the fsct with a csnister I can direct how the water is circulated. I don't like a bunch of equipment taking away from the look of the tank, you can hide a canister, in my opinion canister filters are easier to maintain and less maintenance (except for a sponge filter).

....

For example check out Lake Tanganyika Shell Dweller Cichlids.

I like the idea of generally easier maintenance. But I've also heard this argument before too. Hobs are cheaper significantly and easily replaced - you can essentially purchase 2-5 for the price of one cannister (before the filtering stuff you add in it right?) Got any suggestions on this matter?

I'd much rather have a more expensive first time build that pays for itself over time than something that I'll find myself regretting in the long run, ya know?

Also, the Tanganyika Shell Dwellers look amazing! Inadvertently, I came across a video of Masked Julie and thought those looked amazing too! I'm trying to keep an open mind of my first selection of fishies. There just seems to be scattered tidbits of information about what is ok with what fish and what is not.

 

Don't stress so much.
There is a lot to learn about this hobby, and there is a big learning curve at first. It's best that you keep things simple at this point.
When it comes to filters, I wouldn't go cheap. Do you want to keep buying cheap filters that constantly break down were you have to replace parts or replace the whole filter? Or do you want a more expensive, bigger, better built, more powerful, plus a filter that can be transfered to a bigger tank in the future? This is not to say all big name brands won't fail, or that cheap brands will fail.
Don't start off too expensive, make sure that this is a hobby that you love, and if it is, that's when it's best to start upgrading to bigger and better.
When it comes to tank size, bigger, longer, and (most importantly) what you can afford is best.
I've just recently got extremely interested in Lake Tanganyika fish and absolutely love them over the normal fish that you see in stores. Don't get me wrong I still have my favorites, and if I set up another tank, I will go back to those.
Funny that you mentioned Masked Julies. Right now in my 75, I have four Julidochromis marlieri, and as soon as I can find some Multies or Similis, (without crazy shipping prices) they will be added.
When it comes to stocking and compatibility, it will take some time to figure that out, but not too hard. Remeber you can always come to this forum and there are members here that are great with stocking recommendations.
Yes there is a lot to this hobby, but as I mentioned...K.I.S.S. One of my Drill Sergeants use to love saying this. The experience will come with time, and before you know it, you will look back and wonder why you made every thing harder than it was.

 

Hello Pete =)

As a STBFO (soon-to-be-fish-owner) =) I'm going to throw my suggestions into the "tank" as well (our current aquarium has been set-up since 2015, though we've owned various tanks at different times in life)

Q1 - Tank
A = The short answer is get the largest you can comfortably 1)afford + 2) fit in your space (and yes very much depends on the fish type you prefer), as already noted, larger generally equals easier maintenance & care, because changes won't be as drastic as in small tanks.
We went straight for a 40gal breeder (width to depth profile) because we knew we would not get Angels (prefer/need tall tank). The footprint will allow us to get a 65gal should we ever decide to (custom built stand).
The depth vs width is how much surface water is exposed for air exchange, the more you can expose the better =) (this doesn't mean don't cover the tank, it's just in reference to the amount of surface area)

Q2 - Filter
A = You said "Anaerobic" (this would be bad bacteria in substrate/sand/gravel, undisturbed) that release the "bad gas" vs Aerobic which is what would be in the hang-on/HOB (hang-on-back) filter, which has beneficial bacteria that break down ammonia from fish waste & left over food (try not to overfeed, it's a learning curve for each tank & fish)

All of that aside, we use HOB (hang on) filters due to lower cost & ease of getting them on/in the tank. You can also have multiple little filters so that if you get fish that prefer "calmer" water (Betta, Harlequin Hatchetfish, etc) you aren't bashing them around with flow (there are of course many many DIY modifications for adjusting/tempering filter outflow, another discussion).

We use a combination of filter media including lava rock/poly water polisher "filter floss"/sponge intake covers).

Q3 - Heating & Lighting
A = Basically straightforward, make sure the light is strong enough to reach the bottom of your tank depending on your chosen "livestock" (fish & inverts). But you can OVER expose the tank, so you could end up with too much light.
Heating is same thing, once you know which fish you want, then you can decide on the size/qty of heaters you would like.


Q4 - Future stuff?
A = It is NOT overkill to have most everything on hand and ready to go =)
The gravel/cleaner siphon has been our BEST purchase to date. We use black diamond blasting grit as our substrate (resembles black sand) and the large gravel siphon makes it SO easy to clean the broke down waste out of the substrate w/o sucking up all of it (the suction created by gravity lifts the substrate and pulls the crud out of it and the substrate falls back to the aquarium)
Yes never use SOAP or cleaners on anything that is going into the aquarium, occasionally disinfection with very diluted bleach solution maybe needed, but never into the tank =)

Q5 - ? Nitrogen Cycle? Gas Pockets?! oh my
- Clean the substrate often, agitate it (see below) and vacuum up poop
A = Only agitate it WHEN you gravel vac (siphon for cleaning/water changes), otherwise the 'yuckies' you stir up "could" pollute the tank if not removed during cleaning.
As already mentioned many times, invest in the API Master Freshwater Testing Kit, your fish & peace of mind will thank you for it! And it could answer questions if difficulties come up.
Also the frequent testing is only during the first few months, as another poster said, we only test every few months. (we do have to monitor our local PH more frequently during water changes due to our tap water variables)
The Nitrogen Cycle will start as soon as water starts being circulated and a safe ammonia source is added to the tank (fishless uses fish food)

Am I missing anything else before even getting to the next part?
Depending on your local water source, a tap water conditioner (a complete one will neutralize all sanitizers, heavy metals & ammonia), ammonia neutralizer (if not in your water conditioner), Quality fish food!! (you can feed less & they can digest most of it)


Piecing things together
- Alright assuming that I have a decent understanding of everything else listed above, There's the build portion. Clean the substrate until the water is clear. I prefer using sand as I heard it is easier maintenance but how much of toxic gas pockets do I have to worry about?
Here is a BRILLIANT sand rinse technique that we swear by! (I've linked to the oldest video I can find of this technique so that proper credit is given!)

HOWEVER we always do this in a 5gal bucket outside! (never introduce unrinsed sand/substrate into the aquarium directly, you risk adding bacteria, chemicals, etc)
You fill a plastic bottle with sand, fill it with water and then turn it upside under water (in your bucket don't do this in the tank please), all the light crud is pulled up in the bottle and rinsed sand is left behind =) This 1st rinse sand can be poured into a strainer (to get it out of the initial rinse water), treated with tap water conditioner and ready for putting in the tank!

- Fish type combinations.
My only experience has been with Bettas and this was when I was a kid. So I have a bit of preference for them... I am hoping to have a combination of maybe 3 types of fish though I'm depending on you guys for guidance on suggested limits
As long as your schooling fish aren't fin nippers, a Betta loves having a huge tank for swimming and you'll enjoy some gorgeous color!

* I'd like some algae eaters to help maintain with algae. Shrimp seems cool but they sound awfully not-hearty and susceptible to being eaten by other fish?
If you can find TRUE SAE, they are great with almost any kind of other fish (different habits), but they are tricky to -correctly- identify

* schooling fish seem cool but there's only so much you can put in a tank and is 30 gallons enough room?
This has everything to with their mature size And having adequate filtration w/regular water care changes

* What other fish can I look at?
Many good suggestions, I have nothing to add here =)


Thank you everyone for helping me out. Any tiny bit of advice is helpful. Just not sure how to wrap my head around the whole thing
Thank you for being a interested in starting right, so you have years of enjoyment instead of headache!! Your fish will reward you with good health and fun antics!

 

Sorry but, fish in cycle or fishless cycle? What is that?

Fish in cycling is using fish to cycle the tank. Fishless is cycling a tank without fish.
Most members recommend a fishless cycle, because it is to be safer for fish. But a fish in cycle can be done, and if done right can be just as safe. There are several ways to do both, and the way that you do it is a personal choice. I myself prefer to do fish in cycles. My personal opinion is that fish in cycling using Tetra Safe Start Plus (TSS+) and Seachem Prime is the easiest and fastest way to cycle.
Again, my personal opinion.

 

I'm pretty new, so just wanted to add- one thing I learned in here is some fish have very different temperature needs than seemingly similar fish. In my case I got peppered corys, then found out they are happy at like 72F not 78-80 like many tropical fish. Many other corys like it hotter, so check the parameters for each species of fish you want to make sure they can be happy in the same tank. When you have idea of what you want to stock, but before committing, post ideas in the stocking topic forum and people will help you check if it makes sense. There are also forums for specific breeds of fish if you have a specific type you want to know more about. Good luck!

 

Fish in cycling is using fish to cycle the tank. Fishless is cycling a tank without fish.
Most members recommend a fishless cycle, because it is to be safer for fish. But a fish in cycle can be done, and if done right can be just as safe. There are several ways to do both, and the way that you do it is a personal choice. I myself prefer to do fish in cycles. My personal opinion is that fish in cycling using Tetra Safe Start Plus (TSS+) and Seachem Prime is the easiest and fastest way to cycle.
Again, my personal opinion.

So... you're saying that I 'could' add my heater/therm/filter/plants/substrate/dechlor'd water and couple of fish safely together early on as long as I keep a watchful eye on the nitrate/ammonia levels and often do water changes as needed? I have a better understanding of the cycle but... first setup seems to be a stump I'm having a hard time understanding.

Going to check out my first 30 gal acrylic tank today from Craigslist that's out for a really good deal. It's a used Sea Clear aquarium which brings up another question... glass vs acrylic? I don't think the green tinge is going to be a problem in glass but everyone seems to side with acrylic more.... any thoughts?

 

So... you're saying that I 'could' add my heater/therm/filter/plants/substrate/dechlor'd water and couple of fish safely together early on as long as I keep a watchful eye on the nitrate/ammonia levels and often do water changes as needed? I have a better understanding of the cycle but... first setup seems to be a stump I'm having a hard time understanding.

Going to check out my first 30 gal acrylic tank today from Craigslist that's out for a really good deal. It's a used Sea Clear aquarium which brings up another question... glass vs acrylic? I don't think the green tinge is going to be a problem in glass but everyone seems to side with acrylic more.... any thoughts?

I would go with a fish less cycle , it's easier and you don't need to put fish through any stress.

The only real big difference between the two is Acrylic is much lighter.

 

Going to check out my first 30 gal acrylic tank today from Craigslist that's out for a really good deal. It's a used Sea Clear aquarium which brings up another question... glass vs acrylic? I don't think the green tinge is going to be a problem in glass but everyone seems to side with acrylic more.... any thoughts?

Glass vs. Acrylic The Differences Between and the Debate About Glass Aquariums and Acrylic Aquariums
Best comparison I've seen online =) It really boils down to personal preference (we do have glass because of local convenience)

So... you're saying that I 'could' add my heater/therm/filter/plants/substrate/dechlor'd water and couple of fish safely together early on as long as I keep a watchful eye on the nitrate/ammonia levels and often do water changes as needed? I have a better understanding of the cycle but... first setup seems to be a stump I'm having a hard time understanding.

Fish Cycling: It would require daily partial water changes at first plus testing for levels

Once you DO start adding fish (earlier or later) and your filter has established it's BB (beneficial bacteria) i.e. you are getting 0/Ammonia,0/nitrItes, +/nitrAtes, DON'T restart the cycle by throwing away good filter media and putting new in =) We rinse our "permanent" DIY filter media in dirty tank water to clear it of large debris, and it goes right back in the filter.

 

You can definitely get everything setup and running.
If you are going to do a fish in cycle, this is what I suggest once everything is setup.
1:Get a big bottle of Tetra Safe Start Plus and a bottle of Seachem Prime.
2 : Add Prime, wait 24 hours. After the 24 hours are up, you can then add the whole bottle of TSS+. Make sure that you shake the mess out of the TSS+.
This is important : Once you add the TSS, it's best to add fish within 45 minutes to make sure that the BB in the TSS doesn't die off. If you go with a 30 gallon tank it's best to just start with 3-4 fish.
4: Here is the hard part. For the next two weeks all you have to do is feed your fish, watch and observe your fish. This means no water changes, or substrate vacuuming, no topping off the evaporated water and no water changes. I don't even suggest testing the water. You will get readings that may make you think that its not working and you may do something to "fix" what's wrong.
5: After the two weeks is up, do a water change of 50% , then test your water. you should be cycled.
As you can see when doing a fish in cycle using TSS+ and Prime there is no water changes. You can test the water if you want, but not necessary.
There is another way of doing a fish in cycle using Stability, but I've never done it, and can't tell you how to do it. The one thing that I do know about it is that you must do constant water changes and testing.
I suggest that you research the different ways to cycle, and go by what you feel is easier for you.
Acrylic is good, but make sure that you are getting a quality tank. I've seen some that weren't made well and the clarity was not that good. I personally like acrylic tanks that are over 200 gallons, that's where the weight difference from glass comes into play. Since you are only going up to 30 gallons, stay with glass, it's much cheaper. But if the tank you are going to look at is in very good condition, snatch it up. I also suggest that you try to see the tank setup, that way you can see any flaws on the glass.

 

Just no. Please.
THAT is exactly the stress everyone doing fish-less cycles is avoiding.
ETA to clarification:
The no water changes on new tank for 2wks,
that is what is not 100% agreed with.

Granted 3-4 small fish in 30gal is better then the "common scenario" of someone putting a goldfish in <2gal bowl, but still unnecessary fish health stress.

If you are going to do a fish in cycle, this is what I suggest once everything is setup.
1: Get a big bottle of Tetra Safe Start Plus and a bottle of Seachem Prime.
2: Add Prime, wait 24 hours. After the 24 hours are up, you can then add the whole bottle of TSS+. Make sure that you shake the mess out of the TSS+.
This is important : Once you add the TSS, it's best to add fish within 45 minutes to make sure that the BB in the TSS doesn't die off. If you go with a 30 gallon tank it's best to just start with 3-4 fish.
4: Here is the hard part. For the next two weeks all you have to do is feed your fish, watch and observe your fish. This means no water changes, or substrate vacuuming, no topping off the evaporated water and no water changes. I don't even suggest testing the water. You will get readings that may make you think that its not working and you may do something to "fix" what's wrong.
5: After the two weeks is up, do a water change of 50% , then test your water. you should be cycled.

 

Just no. Please.
THAT is exactly the stress everyone doing fish-less cycles is avoiding.

Granted 3-4 small fish in 30gal is better then the "common scenario" of someone putting a goldfish in <2gal bowl, but still unnecessary fish health stress.

Well, I imagine 'fish in' cycles apparently exist for a reason and reading BluMan1914's guide doesn't seem all that difficult to maintain.

Then again doing a fishless cycle also seem difficult too. I'm all open for ideas - right now I'm really out for learning what have been practices people recommend and why. How do you do your fishless cycle? Is it a much longer and difficult process? I've seen people list it as weeks to a month before being able to put in your first fish

 

Live plant your tank right away!!!!!!! As long as you have standard LED lights you will be able to grow low light plants. I started with fake plants and a few weeks later I realized low light plants are really easy to take care of, so I bought live plants. The first thing you will do once you are fully stocked with fish is buy live plants, if you don't have any in your tank. I wasted about $60 on fake plants and shouldn't have. Moss balls, Windelov Java Ferns, and Java Ferns are good starter plants.

 

Well, I imagine 'fish in' cycles apparently exist for a reason and reading BluMan1914's guide doesn't seem all that difficult to maintain.

Then again doing a fishless cycle also seem difficult too. I'm all open for ideas - right now I'm really out for learning what have been practices people recommend and why. How do you do your fishless cycle? Is it a much longer and difficult process? I've seen people list it as weeks to a month before being able to put in your first fish

Cycling (tank/filter maturing) doesn't need to be "difficult" per say =)
It's (preferably) about finding the most efficient method with least stress on fish =)
The fishless is the least difficult and zero livestock stress:
1) Set-up the tank/decor/filters (per instructions if needed)
2) Fill with treated water (chlorine will kill good bacteria)
3) "Feed" or dump food it in
4) You can add a biological beneficial bacteria starter (either the TSS suggested by Bluman above) or another
5) Let it "mature"
6) After 12-14 days, Start testing for nitrates, once you start getting a reading, your filter will be "established", IF = 0/ammonia, 0/nitrItes
7) ETA - Start your partial water change regimen.
8) Then you can start slowly adding fish =)
You can actually start the tank cycle while you are looking for fish, then you'll have a healthier headstart for them =)

 

I'm gonna gracefully bow out of this conversation.
Everybody has their own personal opinion on the best way to cycle a tank. It comes down to how you want to do it. Are you a person that has to micromanage everything, are you a person that likes things that are less complicated, or are you a person that just likes to learn new things and want to go through the process of seeing the different stages of a cycle?
Also remeber that some members that are against fish in cycle have never done one. Every tank that I've cycled, it was done with fish in. Never had a fish die during the process.
You received many different opinions (pros and cons) on fish in vs fishless. Do more research on your own and figure out the best option for you.
One last thing. To avoid all of this, if you know someone with a established tank, or maybe your local fish store (lfs) see if you can get some of the media from their filters to get an almost instant cycle.

 

Also, get a quality filter. I have a canister because it is quieter than the cheap hang over the back that came with my starter kit. Before you buy an aquarium I would try to find multiple places where you could possibly place it. Even the best equipment will still make noise. I bought my quieter canister filter because after the second night I had trouble sleeping since I had mine in my bedroom and the cheap HOB filter was waaaaaaay too loud. The only wall I could place an aquarium against was in my bedroom. If you turn everything on and say, "This is too loud to have in my house" then everything you just read on here is pointless.

When reading reviews, remember that there are people who can fall asleep next to a jackhammer and there are people that will wake up, if they hear a pin drop.

 

Cycle fishless or fish in. Your own personal choice and decision to make. They both have their own list of pros and cons.

 

Boo, so the the acrylic tank I wanted to check out yesterday was a bust - I can deal with polishing out haze but the yellowing......

Went to Petsmart yesterday and saw a 40 gallon TopFin for sale for 67$ - seems like a much better deal though I didn't buy because I had to measure the size I wanted to cover at home...

 

Boo, so the the acrylic tank I wanted to check out yesterday was a bust - I can deal with polishing out haze but the yellowing......

Went to Petsmart yesterday and saw a 40 gallon TopFin for sale for 67$ - seems like a much better deal though I didn't buy because I had to measure the size I wanted to cover at home...

Don't get in a rush and keep your eye on craigslist. You'll save money, if you can find a used one. Most people need to get rid of their pets ASAP when they post on craigslist, so you can get a good deal.

 

I just set up my first submersible filter (Fluval U4) and it is really quiet compared to my other filters. Just one option. Honestly I think establishing the beneficial bacteria is the main filter thing, any style of filter can work as long as it can process enough tank water.

 

Don't get in a rush and keep your eye on craigslist. You'll save money, if you can find a used one. Most people need to get rid of their pets ASAP when they post on craigslist, so you can get a good deal.

I bought both of my tanks used. We resealed them both which was easier than it sounds (youtube it with the DIY King). The one is a 29 gallon with a wood stand, it was $100, came with a filter, hood, light, heater, some ugly decorations that I chose (but could have used), some blue gravel (that I also could have but chose not to use), fish food, siphon and possibly more. My other tank is a 38 or 40 gallon (she wasn't sure and it's an odd size which would require math that I don't want to do ), it also came with a wood stand, lid, filter, siphon, 2 fish, basically all of the stuff plus a couple of buckets, that one was $110. Both were within 20 minutes of my house and both thanked me about a million times for taking it off of their hands.

At least wait until Petsmart/Petco,/Pet Supplies Plus is having there $1/gallon deal. They have them frequently.

Editing: Resealing cost was about $10/tank, roughly. It took 2 days to do it and then 5 days to air out.

 

At least wait until Petsmart/Petco,/Pet Supplies Plus is having there $1/gallon deal. They have them frequently.

Actually, Petco is having theirs now! 10g, 20 gallon (tall and long) and 29 gallon are $1/gallon, and tanks up to 55, I think, are marked down significantly. The sale runs through the 19th.

I picked up a 20 long for playing with now and a 29 for later, empty tanks don't go bad in storage...

 

Then again doing a fishless cycle also seem difficult too. I'm all open for ideas - right now I'm really out for learning what have been practices people recommend and why. How do you do your fishless cycle? Is it a much longer and difficult process? I've seen people list it as weeks to a month before being able to put in your first fish

Fishless cycles are actually usually faster.

I would always recommend a fishless cycle, especially for a beginner. Fish in cycles can be done without harming the fish badly but to do that you would need to monitor the levels very carefully, do water changes whenever needed and be able to spot signs of stress straight away. Fishless cycles are so much easier and you don't hurt any fish.

 

Totally agree with you Bottom Dweller, I learnt that the hard way... I started off with 3 danios in a 15 gallon, with no checking of parameters. I don't know how I did it but it was a pain, 1 died right off the bat, another disappeared and the last one also died right after the cycling was finished (checked with lfs on water parameters). Now I have a nice established 15 with 10 neons, 3 corys and a bunch of amanos