Finally Got The Stuff

ponitboss

Well Known
My last message never got through, I asked about the shrimp were they dead before you added the water and what's the new tds

No the shrimp died after adding the new water about 3 hrs after the new tds is 474ppm
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
What was the tds before adding the water because it was 465after adding the first lot
 

ponitboss

Well Known
What was the tds before adding the water because it was 465after adding the first lot

I didn't measure it before I measured it yesterday tho an it was 469ppm
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
And what is it now the gallon as had time to mix
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
So after putting 1gal of RO water in its gone up 4 points, do you have a lot of evaporation in the heat, that's not right
 

ponitboss

Well Known
So after putting 1gal of RO water in its gone up 4 points, do you have a lot of evaporation in the heat, that's not right

Yes I get alotttttttt of evaporation in a week if I don't top up its about 4 gallons r so
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
That's why the tds as gon up you'll have check your tds every other day and top up with a pint of RO treated at 50 below reading from tank this should help with evaporation and bring it down a bit, if it's stable leave it three days but as soon as you see the TDS going up add to it gently. With the readings you gave me today they would not have killed those two shrimp as there was no change realy, just add slowly
 

ponitboss

Well Known
That's why the tds as gon up you'll have check your tds every other day and top up with a pint of RO treated at 50 below reading from tank this should help with evaporation and bring it down a bit, if it's stable leave it three days but as soon as you see the TDS going up add to it gently. With the readings you gave me today they would not have killed those two shrimp as there was no change realy, just add slowly

I notice tonight what looked like a shrimp attacking another shrimp so maybe they killing each other, one was on top the other the other was upside down tryour to get away. Do u think I need a booster pump r can I just stay at 40psi
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
The only reason shrimp would be like that is if the other was dead or slmost dead they do not kill each other. Or was it a moult. Most RO units perform better above 60psl this is what's recommended by most manufacturers so id say yes you would benefit
 

ponitboss

Well Known
The only reason shrimp would be like that is if the other was dead or slmost dead they do not kill each other. Or was it a moult. Most RO units perform better above 60psl this is what's recommended by most manufacturers so id say yes you would benefit

Oh okay could of been a molt then. Does the booster pump last long? How long have u had yours? I'm doing some research but pexpletive are saying they don't last very long
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
They should last year's I've had mine quite a few years and still going strong
 

tjander

Well Known
I am wondering if TDS is not your biggest problem. If I remember right your water was high in Nitrates I am tossing thoughts out for consideration only, but could you have a copper problem.?
I am thinking your water might the problem but the RO system should take care of any problems, IDK...Also, just a point molts look like a shrimp but they are normally white dead shrimp are normally pink. To confirm a molt pull it from the tank and look at it.
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
tjander you right there's more going on and your input as just given me a thought, I agree the tds is not a big problem getting it down with evaporation is challenging. This is where I'm now starting to think about temperature, air temp is going up to 29 to 31c in Barbados if that's the case tank temp will be going up gradually with it so @pointboss we need to know what your tank temperature is, if it's in the high 20s you will start to loose shrimp prolonged high temp is fatal
 

ponitboss

Well Known
I am wondering if TDS is not your biggest problem. If I remember right your water was high in Nitrates I am tossing thoughts out for consideration only, but could you have a copper problem.?
I am thinking your water might the problem but the RO system should take care of any problems, IDK...Also, just a point molts look like a shrimp but they are normally white dead shrimp are normally pink. To confirm a molt pull it from the tank and look at it.

Not sure if we have copper in our water are not and it wasn't a molt it was the actually shrimp it was red not white like molt

tjander you right there's more going on and your input as just given me a thought, I agree the tds is not a big problem getting it down with evaporation is challenging. This is where I'm now starting to think about temperature, air temp is going up to 29 to 31c in Barbados if that's the case tank temp will be going up gradually with it so @pointboss we need to know what your tank temperature is, if it's in the high 20s you will start to loose shrimp prolonged high temp is fatal

Temperature in the tank is normally 80 degrees
 

stella1979

Fishlore VIP
OK so today I finally got the tds, bacter ae, salty shrimp and ro/dI system. First problem is my tap water maxed out the meter at 999ppm, rain water read at 31ppm. Will the ro/dI filter bring this to 0?
I'm sorry that I don't have time to read the entire thread right now, and please forgive me if this has been mentioned... but I did not see anything on the first page. Your RODI system's stages will exhaust themselves at a much higher rate if you're putting 999+ TDS tap water through it rather than the 31 TDS on your rainwater. If you can gather rainwater, and want to make your sediment and carbon cartridges, RO membrane and DI resin last longer, then do gather that rainwater to put through your RODI system. In the end, a properly working RODI system will strip the dirtiest water until it's clean as a whistle. 0ppm on the TDS meter means you have absolutely pure water... nothing to dechlorinate, nothing to contaminate the tank, just pure water for you to use in making the best water for your shrimp.

Otherwise, I see you've got some shrimpy gurus here, so I'll leave the advice to them, and will happily catch up on your shrimp build a little later.

Hope this helped!
 

ponitboss

Well Known
I'm sorry that I don't have time to read the entire thread right now, and please forgive me if this has been mentioned... but I did not see anything on the first page. Your RODI system's stages will exhaust themselves at a much higher rate if you're putting 999+ TDS tap water through it rather than the 31 TDS on your rainwater. If you can gather rainwater, and want to make your sediment and carbon cartridges, RO membrane and DI resin last longer, then do gather that rainwater to put through your RODI system. In the end, a properly working RODI system will strip the dirtiest water until it's clean as a whistle. 0ppm on the TDS meter means you have absolutely pure water... nothing to dechlorinate, nothing to contaminate the tank, just pure water for you to use in making the best water for your shrimp.

Otherwise, I see you've got some shrimpy gurus here, so I'll leave the advice to them, and will happily catch up on your shrimp build a little later.

Hope this helped!

Didn't think about using rainwater good idea wed have to get a submersible pump with at least 80psi

tjander you right there's more going on and your input as just given me a thought, I agree the tds is not a big problem getting it down with evaporation is challenging. This is where I'm now starting to think about temperature, air temp is going up to 29 to 31c in Barbados if that's the case tank temp will be going up gradually with it so @pointboss we need to know what your tank temperature is, if it's in the high 20s you will start to loose shrimp prolonged high temp is fatal

80F is the temperature just test the tds of the tank it 484 now. I have some ro/dI water here about 4 gallons should I add it now? Add plain or add salty shrimp
 

stella1979

Fishlore VIP
Didn't think about using rainwater good idea wed have to get a submersible pump with at least 80psi

A pump purchase that should give you at least a couple of years of use is likely worth it against frequently and continuously buying filtration parts. I mean, we do have to maintain our units, but the goal is to reduce the frequency of the units needing maintenance. I've been using RODI for a couple of years now and I appreciate anything that will keep that TDS at 0ppm for a longer period of time.

Also, if wastewater is a concern... and don't we all hope to waste less water? A unit sterilizing water with a TDS over 1000 will produce more wastewater than the same unit purifying 31 TDS water. Plus... the water bill!
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
Add the 4galons and reminerilise to 300 very slowly not to shock 80 could have a bearing on the shrimp death or at least reduced lifespan
 

ponitboss

Well Known
Add the 4galons and reminerilise to 300 very slowly not to shock 80 could have a bearing on the shrimp death or at least reduced lifespan

Oh ok np
 

tjander

Well Known
I have never ran my shrimp tank up to 80. I have gone to 76 before but 80 seems pretty hot. Got me thinking of a shrimp cocktail. . Sorry could not help myself
 

ponitboss

Well Known
I have never ran my shrimp tank up to 80. I have gone to 76 before but 80 seems pretty hot. Got me thinking of a shrimp cocktail. . Sorry could not help myself

Lol yes it's hot here in Barbados
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
There you go this is the pump I use and water about pressure at 138psi
 

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ponitboss

Well Known
There you go this is the pump I use and water about pressure at 138psi

Ok I talked with the supplier and they said I need a booster pump the the 40 psI is bare minimum
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
Thought so mine was 40psI when I first started
 

ponitboss

Well Known
Thought so mine was 40psI when I first started

But they also said that my tds is really high an even with booster pump the ro membrane should reduce it to 80ppm then the resin would do the rest but it will use up resin fast. How much ppm do u get after the ro membrane?
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
I get o across the board it then quietly starts to raise over a 12 month to around 10 when I change all the filters excpt membrane, remember you water is bad so your unit must work harder yet you will see a difference with a booster, did you ask about using an extra pod to assist and would it make a difference
 

ponitboss

Well Known
I get o across the board it then quietly starts to raise over a 12 month to around 10 when I change all the filters excpt membrane, remember you water is bad so your unit must work harder yet you will see a difference with a booster, did you ask about using an extra pod to assist and would it make a difference

I mean after the ro membrane but before the dI resin
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
all my readings are done first by the TDS inlet that also gives me a reading after the final stage which is the DI resin.its then kept for about 4 days with prime in. prime takes it up 6ppm for 12ltr then I add minerals I take that into account and raise to what I need
 

ponitboss

Well Known
all my readings are done first by the TDS inlet that also gives me a reading after the final stage which is the DI resin.its then kept for about 4 days with prime in. prime takes it up 6ppm for 12ltr then I add minerals I take that into account and raise to what I need

Do u have your pump setup before the pre filters(straight from the tap) or after the prefilters?
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
yes it must be setup before the first filter

Mines running at the moment you can see the red inlet to the pump from supply then red into first stage
 

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stella1979

Fishlore VIP
HI again. I'm no pro with this stuff... have no idea what my psI is... hubs says we sure could use a booster, but we have been doing okay without one for a couple of years. Anyway, lol, I use my system a bit differently and RO is dispensed along with RODI. Sooo, my 350-400 TDS tap water is reduced to about 40 TDS after going through the RO membrane and the DI resin does get it to 0 TDS. I maybe shouldn't (because I have hair algae in the reef tank) but I do let my RODI's TDS creep up to 3 before changing the DI resin, use about 6-7 gallons of RODI per week, and I have to change the DI resin twice a year. Hope that helps!
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
HI stella1979 mine today is going in at 349 out 1 in photo, one reading as it comes the other is after the dI resin, I'd have thought yours should be similar, with my pump the wp is 138psi. Mind I believe the pump makes things more efficient, it works out 12ltr just over 3gall in 31 minutes at the moment due to it being cold, I never measure between membrane and dI resin, I do leave mine go to its 10ish tds before I change, I also flush for 10 minutes before and after each use. Thought I'd give you this for you to compare
 

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ponitboss

Well Known
all my readings are done first by the TDS inlet that also gives me a reading after the final stage which is the DI resin.its then kept for about 4 days with prime in. prime takes it up 6ppm for 12ltr then I add minerals I take that into account and raise to what I need

Went an ordered the pump today
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
Well done now your talking there'll be no stopping you now
 

ponitboss

Well Known
Well done now your talking there'll be no stopping you now

I got the inline tds today, waiting on a flush kit and gh/kh test

HI again. I'm no pro with this stuff... have no idea what my psI is... hubs says we sure could use a booster, but we have been doing okay without one for a couple of years. Anyway, lol, I use my system a bit differently and RO is dispensed along with RODI. Sooo, my 350-400 TDS tap water is reduced to about 40 TDS after going through the RO membrane and the DI resin does get it to 0 TDS. I maybe shouldn't (because I have hair algae in the reef tank) but I do let my RODI's TDS creep up to 3 before changing the DI resin, use about 6-7 gallons of RODI per week, and I have to change the DI resin twice a year. Hope that helps!

Yes it helped thank you
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
Once this is setup and working it'll be the best move you've made
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
stella1979 please give input any time it's nice to get other opinions on how their systems work
 

ponitboss

Well Known
Right now I can get yellow,orange,black and blue shrimp but trying with what I have before getting other types
 

ponitboss

Well Known
stella1979 please give input any time it's nice to get other opinions on how their systems work

Will keep other kinds of shrimp went I get the hang of it. Or went I get the booster pump I wurst get a 5 gallon tank and try one other kind. What is the basic ppm for cherries because I will be using ro/dI water
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
220 tds is a good figure but what's more important is the gh we need that around 8 and kh 3 now it may be the tds is 300 to get those readings and if that's the case that's where you aI'm but need to experiment first, once we know the gh is 8ish you take a tds reading and that will be your mix every time and a stable tank
 

ponitboss

Well Known
220 tds is a good figure but what's more important is the gh we need that around 8 and kh 3 now it may be the tds is 300 to get those readings and if that's the case that's where you aI'm but need to experiment first, once we know the gh is 8ish you take a tds reading and that will be your mix every time and a stable tank

Ok Kool I'm having a problem getting the gh/kh test it not coming keep saying delivered but it's not they so IDK when I'll get it. It got ordered 3 times and nothing came got back the money from amazon order from somewhere else and still nothing
 

ponitboss

Well Known
220 tds is a good figure but what's more important is the gh we need that around 8 and kh 3 now it may be the tds is 300 to get those readings and if that's the case that's where you aI'm but need to experiment first, once we know the gh is 8ish you take a tds reading and that will be your mix every time and a stable tank

I got the gh/kh test kit and the flush kit
 

ponitboss

Well Known
Its all go then

Booster pump came tds out of membrane is 30ppm now. Tds in the tank is 518 should I remineralize the ro water to 400ppm?
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
You can do a change of straight RO water no need to add minerals at this point just be careful how fast you add it to the tank, in fact if you use air tube you can leave it siphon straight in, no more than your standard water change
 

ponitboss

Well Known
You can do a change of straight RO water no need to add minerals at this point just be careful how fast you add it to the tank, in fact if you use air tube you can leave it siphon straight in, no more than your standard water change

Ok the kh is 5 drops and gh is 14 drops
 

richiep

Fishlore Legend
That's fine your GH will fall a couple of points and the GH is going to be your guide so once you done the first change leave it 24hs and test your GH again and let us know,
 

ponitboss

Well Known
That's fine your GH will fall a couple of points and the GH is going to be your guide so once you done the first change leave it 24hs and test your GH again and let us know,

24 hrs later kh is 5 drops and gh is 12 drop. Tank water ppm is 458.
 

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