Finally Able to Unbox my RO/DI Now What?

Discussion in 'Reverse Osmosis Filter for Freshwater' started by Beausoleiljacob, Jul 22, 2015.

  1. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    Hi Fishlore,
    After having it sit in my Library for about a month now, I was finally able to open up my Bulk Reef Supply 6 Stage Universal Water Saver Plus - 150GPD System.This system is for my Freshwater Aquariums and I'm so glad that I can start making my own water rather than having to haul 1 gallon jugs here and from work. I haven't made any water yet because I had a few questions before I got started. 1. I know that you have to add essential minerals back into the water after taking them all out, is RO Right the correct product to use? 2. My well water has a TDS of about 600, should I use just RO or both RO/DI for my fish (Community Tank & Goldfish). 3. What products should I use to get my GH & KH to ideal levels. KH=4-8 and GH=4-12. Is this correct? What levels should you recommend? Can I use the API GH&KH kit to measure this. 4. After the water comes out of the unit will the pH match my tap water pH? What product should I use to get my pH to neutral. I really just need the most help I can get in regards to what chemicals and what to do with the water.\

    Thanks for ALL the Help! :D
  2. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    I have a 5 stage RODI treating the water from a softener. The water starts out with a ph in the high 8's and is 7.0 at the end. The tds are 1 ppm. Remember to replenish the mineral content with the proper minerals or you could suffer a ph crash. I use this.
  3. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    If the pH after going through the unit is too low, what would I use to bring that number back up? I too, have a water softener. Is this why my GH is so low 0-1 and my KH is 16+?
  4. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    What do you have the softener set to? I have mine set to 3 PPM. Then the RODI unit takes it down to 1 PPM

    Unless you have fish like Rift lake cichlids the require high ph I would not mess with it. The vast majority of fish are fine with a ph of 7.0

    I like the TDDS low so I have complete control over the water. I add what is needed for the fish and plants. No surprises.
  5. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    I'm not sure what Level you are referring to. The following parameters is what I had to set for my Water Softener. Display Format, Regenerant Flow, Control Type, Unit Capacity, Water Hardness, Reserve Selection, Saftey Factor, Fixed Reserve Capacity, Day Override, Regen Time.
  6. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    I have about 40 tanks running right now, and I have a 40 GPD 4 stage unit. What are you running that you need a 150 GPD unit!?!
  7. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    Sorry misread post. Yes that is why your readings are low.
  8. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    The only reason for that is the very High TDS of my water. It was recommended by the company to get 2 membranes and more stages so I wont have to replace everything so often. I have TDS of 600
  9. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    You are doing it right. I will be making the same upgrade soon. It also reduces the wast water by a lot. Remember to back flush the membrane often. I do it once a month. I got my system from BRS last year.
  10. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    Good To Hear! Would you be able to tell me how I should start to move my fish over to RO/DI?
  11. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    Get the RO/DI water where you want to be with the minerals and add it at each water change. This will keep the fish from stressing and allow them to ease in to the new water. Remember that if you add water to replace evaporation add straight RO/DI water. The minerals do not evaporate with the water.

    What kind of storage are you using to hold the water?
  12. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    My question was not why do you need 6-stage filtration. My question was what are you going to do with 150 gallons of R/O water per day?

    If you are planning to not run the unit for long periods, don't forget to take the membrane out and refrigerate it. Otherwise it will grow anaerobic bacteria, which will damage the membrane.

    Incidentally, TDS of my well water varies, currently at about 450ppm, but in very cold, dry weather it has gone over 1000ppm. If I filled a tank with cold well water and let it warm up, there would be a calcium film build up on the glass. You are still going to have to change out any prefilters every 4-6 months, and if you have a DI cartridge for after filtering it will likely have to be changed every 8-12 months, or sooner.
  13. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    Good points. I have two pre filters. One before the softener and one in front of the RO/DI unit. The biggest advantage of the 150 gal per day is the huge reduction in wast water. Though many people water their plants with the wast water.
  14. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    I don't call it "waste water", I call it "Byflow water". It has been through two prefilter stages, and is only slightly harder than my well water, so I use it for hard water fish and for putting minerals back into the R/O tanks. The amount I add depends on how hard I need the water to be. Unless you have heavy metals in your water supply, it should be fine. Adding all those fancy additives from the store serves the sole purpose of emptying your wallet.
  15. BeausoleiljacobValued MemberMember

    Thanks for the info! Sorry for not understanding your question. The only reason why I got the 150 GPD Unit was the Waste Water Reduction Rate & the other reason I stated above. How do I refrigerate the membranes?

    Do I want to use just RO/DI water for my water change? How much of a change would you recommend?
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 26, 2015
  16. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    Put it in a baggie and place in the refrigerator. Usually necessary if the unit is shut down for long periods, like a week or more.
  17. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    With respect I disagree. Seachem Equilibrium and Flourish add the minerals in the proper amounts for the optimum growth of my plants. My well water is heavy in iron and lacking in every thing else. Depending on what the aquifer is up to there can be a lot of copper also. There was a lot of mining here years ago. The main reason besides my planted aquariums for the RO/DI setup I have is the 150 gal reef tank, but I ran out of money to reenforce the floor and all the other expenses that I over looked in properly setting up that tank.

    Maybe next year :;dk

    I would. The frequency and amount of water in the change should bace on the water readings. PH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. This is making the assumption that the tank(s) in question are fully cycled before you do this.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 26, 2015
  18. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    I said that in the line just before saying that store supplements are a waste of money. Copper mining usually has other substances involved that can be hazardous, I would say you are justified in paying for the supplements. In my case, there is considerable iron in the water, but it's mostly calcium salts. Doesn't hurt a thing to use the byflow.
  19. Thunder_o_bFishlore VIPMember

    Exotic plants, fish, inverts and corals have very specific needs. I would rather not guess and hope the untreated water will meet the needs. I know that the treated RO/DI water does meet those needs. The RO/DI water is a foundation of keeping the more difficult species of fish, inverts and plants.

    But I will be the last person to say that one must do this. Time and loss of stock would prove this.

    EDIT: You have 40 tanks. I am jealous, I have trouble keeping up with the 8 tanks I have.
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  20. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    The needs are not as specific as many would have you believe. 20+ years of breeding fish and raising plants with R/O mixed with byflow has already proven my point. SW animals can be more specific, but this is the FW area of the forum. (Unless there are FW Corals?)