Fin Rot/ich - update

I won a fair goldfish last Friday and almost immediately he developed some kind of fin rot/Ich. Over night he had small chunks taken out of his fin and a white fuzz spot that appeared. Since then he has been on Jungle Fungus Clear and is on the second dosage. Yesterday removed him from the tank briefly in a cup with water and used a q tip dipped in 3% hydrogen peroxide to gently work off the fuzz spot as it didn’t seem much better. Since her started the Fungus Clear his fins have not rotted anymore but they developed little white spots on them but they don’t seem to be growing? Just today he developed a small spot on his eye and that’s worrying as well. I’m puzzled on what else to do. I’d like to get an opinion on how his fins look and if they look like they may be healing at all. Right now he’s alone in a 10gal which is a little too small but this is only a temporary home until I have a better setup. He does have a filter and an air pump I took the carbon out of the filter as if stated in the directions for his medicine. Temperature is about room temp no heater and his behavior has not changed much. The tank was not cycled sadly because this was a last minute habitat. Since I got him on Friday I’ve done 2 10% water changes. Not really sure what else I could do for him. The white fuzz spot seems to be coming back a little bit. First two s are his tail, next one is the spot of concern sorry for blurry picture I will update if needed, last one is a blurry of the small mass on the eye.
Sorry did not mean alone one other small goldfish with no symptoms tank is by mine and others standards over crowded with 2 gold in a 10 gal but they will get an upgrade soon within the next 2 days

 

If possible you should get an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. No matter what you're doing with an aquarium, being able to test for toxins is crucial, especially while a tank is cycling. The big problem for new tanks is buildup of ammonia and nitrite, which the API test kit will show. I'd recommend staying away from test strips. Test strips have a reputation for being wrong.

With a test kit you can manage the cycling process with fish in. Add your readings together for ammonia and nitrites (parts per million PPM). Do water changes to keep the number at 1 ppm or below. You'll need to do partial water changes more than 10%. For example, if your toxin levels are 2 ppm, you need to do a 50% water change to get the toxins down to 1 ppm.

A 10G will be fine for now. I'd concentrate on trying to get your fish cured and water stabilized before you switch tanks again. Switching tanks will cause cycling issues, and will cause stress on the fish.

Your fish definitely have ich. Once the white spots appear, the parasite has been active in the tank for some time. The entire tank is infested, so it won't do any good to remove a fish showing symptoms. All the fish will show symptoms at some point. The parasites are active before the white spots appear. You should start treatment right away, and make sure to keep treating for at least a week or two after the white spots disappear. There are three ways to treat ich, the temperature method, the salt method, or the medication method. Each way will work. What's best depends on your situation. Don't combine methods. Stick to one method for the duration.

The fuzz could be fungus, or it could be anchor worms, which will blast out the side of the fish in a few days. The medication for ich might be the same as for anchor worms.

A fish getting ich and fin rot is usually in a situation where water quality is an issue. You're on the right track to do frequent water changes, they never hurt, but I'd recommend doing more like 50% rather than 10%. Prime is recommended for water conditioner because it not only neutralizes chlorine, but also neutralizes ammonia and nitrites temporarily, which is good when cycling.

 

If possible you should get an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. No matter what you're doing with an aquarium, being able to test for toxins is crucial, especially while a tank is cycling. The big problem for new tanks is buildup of ammonia and nitrite, which the API test kit will show. I'd recommend staying away from test strips. Test strips have a reputation for being wrong.

With a test kit you can manage the cycling process with fish in. Add your readings together for ammonia and nitrites (parts per million PPM). Do water changes to keep the number at 1 ppm or below. You'll need to do partial water changes more than 10%. For example, if your toxin levels are 2 ppm, you need to do a 50% water change to get the toxins down to 1 ppm.

A 10G will be fine for now. I'd concentrate on trying to get your fish cured and water stabilized before you switch tanks again. Switching tanks will cause cycling issues, and will cause stress on the fish.

Your fish definitely have ich. Once the white spots appear, the parasite has been active in the tank for some time. The entire tank is infested, so it won't do any good to remove a fish showing symptoms. All the fish will show symptoms at some point. The parasites are active before the white spots appear. You should start treatment right away, and make sure to keep treating for at least a week or two after the white spots disappear. There are three ways to treat ich, the temperature method, the salt method, or the medication method. Each way will work. What's best depends on your situation. Don't combine methods. Stick to one method for the duration.

The fuzz could be fungus, or it could be anchor worms, which will blast out the side of the fish in a few days. The medication for ich might be the same as for anchor worms.

A fish getting ich and fin rot is usually in a situation where water quality is an issue. You're on the right track to do frequent water changes, they never hurt, but I'd recommend doing more like 50% rather than 10%. Prime is recommended for water conditioner because it not only neutralizes chlorine, but also neutralizes ammonia and nitrites temporarily, which is good when cycling.

I was thinking more along the lines of fungus for the white spot, looks like cotton wool disease. They’ve been on treatment since Saturday, not much improvement should I be expecting to see anything by now? I thought after 3 days I’d at least see improvement but it seems to be getting gradually worse. I’ve been taking the medication method and using Fungus Clear and the ingredients are Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, Pnotassium Dichromate. Based on what I read about it from others it’s supposedly very effective with a variety of things but I’m not getting much results.

 

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Well, is suspect something with water quality. 10 gallons may suffice for a month, but the tank will eventually need to be upgraded to a 100+ gallon.

 

Well, is suspect something with water quality. 10 gallons may suffice for a month, but the tank will eventually need to be upgraded to a 100+ gallon.

100+? I’ve read that 20 gallons is the standard for one goldfish + 10 for every additional one. Do you think a 35 gal would be already?

 

nope. common goldies can grow 1-2 inches every month in the proper conditions, but I'm afraid 35 is too small for a common goldfish.

Single goldfish 100 gallon + 30 gal for each additional

 

The last time I updated here my goldfish had a gigantic white fuzz spot on him as well as some fin rot and ich spots. I’m now happy to report that the fuzz spot is not longer fuzzy, it’s just slightly white and I can see new scale growth over it. Most of the ich spots have disappeared and the go rot now had black starting around the edges instead of white, if I’m correct I think that means healing? If so I’m very glad I’ll show before and after if fins and would like feedback if they look to be healing

 

Yes, black is usually healing.

Just keep up with water changes. Clean water reduces illnesses and diseases, and helps healing.