Filtration Size Help (please) For Setup!

Snaily
  • #1
Hey FishForum,

I'm in the process of dropping my wallet on a bunch of new aquarium equipment and I'm looking for some advice! All opinions are welcome. My tank I just purchased as well as the items I'm planning to purchase are as follows:

Tank: Aqueon 45 Gallon LED Aquarium Ensemble
(Aqueon® 45 Gallon LED Aquarium Ensemble | fish Aquariums)


Substrate: National Geographic White Aquarium Sand


Heater: Fluval E 200-Watt Electronic Heater OR The 300 Watt Version. Which Heater would you recommend or this good?? I'm unsure whether it is harmful to buy an 100 gallon 300watt heater for a 45Gallon tank or if it is okay.
()


Filtration: Filtration is where I need the most help! I'm stuck between two Fluval canister filters after deciding a hob wouldn't be strong enough for an established planted tank which is my goal. I figured in the long run, canister would be better anyway! I'm stuck between Fluval External 306 Canister Filter & Fluval External 406 Canister Filter.
Both found on this page here: Search Results

The 306 Canister is for 70 Gallon tanks and the 406 is for 100 Gallon tanks. My issue is that I really would like to get the 406 over the 306 but I was worried that a 100 gallon canister filter would be too much for a 45 gallon tank or even the 70 gallon canister would be too strong. Does having a filter for higher gallons than the gallons of your tank matter? I would really appreciate some feedback on this! I want the 406.


For now that is all the help I require! Thank-you for reading and please give me all the feedback that you can! All of it is appreciated especially on heaters and filters.


 
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PeauMon
  • #2
Have you asked the local fish store? They might be able to help if no one here answers your question
 
Thunder_o_b
  • #3
Greetings

If you want to grow plants I recommend going with at lease the Fluval Aqua sky. We have two and the plants do well with them. On the 150 we have the Current plant plus Pro (with a twin florescent behind it) it is a better light but twice the price.

For filtration you really want at least 10x the water column in flow (my opinion) I run HOB and canisters together on all our aquariums. (nothing but Marineland in this house) You can not go by how the manufactures rate the flow at.

Some of our filtration. All are planted:
1. 37 gallon guppy aquarium 550 GPH.

2. 44 gallon 700 GPH.

3. 55 gallon700 GPH.

4. 150 gallon 1,470 GPH

Heaters are a choice that depends on where you live. My observation is that they are good for 10 degrees above ambient room temp (in the size aquarium they are rated for) So what you would need in northern Alaska will be different than what you would need in southern Arizona.

Do not forget that with plants there will be supplement and care that goes along with having them grow and_thrive.

Also the type of sand will have a big impact on how the plants grow. Fine sand compacts and strangles the roots. I use BDBS (Black Diamond Blasting Sand) in med-corse grit my plants love it. It is $8.00 for a 50 lb bag at Tractor Supply Co. It is black in color.
 
JB92668
  • #4
for your size tank a 100 wate heater is best and filter exturnal if its just for plants u don't need it to be to strong the 306 exturnal will do the job all that is for the 45 gal tank
 
Snaily
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
If you want to grow plants I recommend going with at least the Fluval Aqua sky

Heaters are a choice that depends on where you live. My observation is that they are good for 10 degrees above ambient room temp (in the size aquarium they are rated for) So what you would need in northern Alaska will be different than what you would need in southern Arizona.

Do not forget that with plants there will be supplement and care that goes along with having them grow and_thrive.

Also the type of sand will have a big impact on how the plants grow. Fine sand compacts and strangles the roots. I use BDBS (Black Diamond Blasting Sand) in med-corse grit my plants love it. It is $8.00 for a 50 lb bag at Tractor Supply Co. It is black in color.

I completely agree on the lighting, I wasn't sure what to go for but if you recommend it, I'll definitely check it out. As for the Substrate, I'm putting material underneath the sand to help promote the growth then sustaining the plants by using fertz through the water column in combination with Root Tabs (and trimming). I didn't want to get too technical so I just focused on basics such as standard equipment. Can you really use a HoB and Canister, how much better does it work?

Yeah, here in Canada, Ontario it really doesn't get too cold. Especially in our house So I'll stick with the recommended 200 Watt heater. The flow rate for the 306 Canister is 1150 LPH (303 US GPH) and about 380 US GPH for the 406. I'm sticking with my white sand because I've used it before, I prefer the aesthetic and I'm used to handling it, but I have heard tons about how good blasting sand is!

for your size tank a 100 wate heater is best and filter exturnal if its just for plants u don't need it to be to strong the 306 exturnal will do the job all that is for the 45 gal tank
I thought the 306 would be great too! I'm leaning towards it more now and will probably end up buying it but the bigger more expensive stuff always intrigues me the most ;P
 
Dave Weber
  • #6
Hey FishForum,

I'm in the processors of dropping my wallet on a bunch of new aquarium equipment and I'm looking for some advice! All opinions are welcome. My tank I just purchased as well as the items I'm planning to purchase are as follows:

Tank: Aqueon 45 Gallon LED Aquarium Ensemble
(Aqueon® 45 Gallon LED Aquarium Ensemble | fish Aquariums)


Substrate: National Geographic White Aquarium Sand


Heater: Fluval E 200-Watt Electronic Heater OR The 300 Watt Version. Which Heater would you recommend or this good?? I'm unsure whether it is harmful to buy an 100 gallon 300watt heater for a 45Gallon tank or if it is okay.
()


Filtration: Filtration is where I need the most help! I'm stuck between two Fluval canister filters after deciding a hob wouldn't be strong enough for an established planted tank which is my goal. I figured in the long run, canister would be better anyway! I'm stuck between Fluval External 306 Canister Filter & Fluval External 406 Canister Filter.
Both found on this page here: Search Results

The 306 Canister is for 70 Gallon tanks and the 406 is for 100 Gallon tanks. My issue is that I really would like to get the 406 over the 306 but I was worried that a 100 gallon canister filter would be too much for a 45 gallon tank or even the 70 gallon canister would be too strong. Does having a filter for higher gallons than the gallons of your tank matter? I would really appreciate some feedback on this! I want the 406.


For now that is all the help I require! Thank-you for reading and please give me all the feedback that you can! All of it is appreciated especially on heaters and filters.
I always go higher when it comes to filtration, I have a 55 gallon tank with a sunsun canister rated for 75 .. after the filter is filled with media I read somewhere it cuts down in flow rate a little ..after I set mine up after a few days I realized I needed a power head to move additional water around because I had a huge dead spot,
 
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Mike1995
  • #7
idk if cost is an issue but I recommend looking into the aquatop forza canisters. They're not tge ones that are the sane as sunsun. It's a completely different line. But anyway, I have one on my 112g. It fits a lot of media, comes with spray bar and regular output and has awesome flow. It's unbelievably quiet. has a handle on it and everything. I only go against fluval because I don't think they're that good for the price.
also heater size is fine at 200 watts Imo for 45 gallon. In my 112 I have a 400 watt and heats like a charm.
 
Blitzar
  • #8
for your size tank a 100 wate heater is best and filter exturnal if its just for plants u don't need it to be to strong the 306 exturnal will do the job all that is for the 45 gal tank

A 100 watt heater? I would go more towards 150, but that's because I keep fish that need higher temps, so I might be over-balling a bit.
 
Thunder_o_b
  • #9
I completely agree on the lighting, I wasn't sure what to go for but if you recommend it, I'll definitely check it out. As for the Substrate, I'm putting material underneath the sand to help promote the growth then sustaining the plants by using fertz through the water column in combination with Root Tabs (and trimming). I didn't want to get too technical so I just focused on basics such as standard equipment. Can you really use a HoB and Canister, how much better does it work?

Yeah, here in Canada, Ontario it really doesn't get too cold. Especially in our house So I'll stick with the recommended 200 Watt heater. The flow rate for the 306 Canister is 1150 LPH (303 US GPH) and about 380 US GPH for the 406. I'm sticking with my white sand because I've used it before, I prefer the aesthetic and I'm used to handling it, but I have heard tons about how good blasting sand is!

I use multiple filters for several reasons:

1. If one breaks down you still have filtration and do not loose cycle.

2. If I start up another aquarium all I have to do is pull one of the cartrages from the HOB, stick it in the new filter and the new aquarium is fully cycled in a day or two. This is why I only use one brand of filters.... Well, and the fact that I think Marineland is the best

3. If the power goes out having more than one filter spreads the bb die off across greater surface area for a shorter recovery time.

4. Waterfall HOB's do the job diffrently than canisters. The gasous exchange takes place at the air water interface. The water fall adds a lot of extra surface area. The canister used properly will increase surface area by creating waves.

5. A canister's out put can be positioned to create flow that elimates dead spots and mimics natural water movement for the fish. You can see several species of fish willfuly swimming in the out flow from a strong canister.
 
Bermuda Triangle
  • #10
HI snaily ,
I recommend the Marineland c-220 good up to 55 gals . Also go to Petsmart or Chewy online . Petsmart store will match their online prices !
I just replaced my Eheim pro4 350 with a Marineland c-360 . In store is $229, they matched online price of $149 ! Amazing savings .
I’m very happy with Marineland. Great flow easy setup and startup .
My tank is 65gal aqueon setup . Planted with Malaysian drift wood . My busy nose plecos love it . In fact the female layed eggs , male guards them until they hatch . I now have a bunch of baby plecos . I also have mystery snails , they to layed eggs . The little ones are awesome .
Awesome Hobby !!!
Another note, if you want a large selection of Malaysian driftwood to select from , I suggest if your in the Lancaster, PA area, go to That Fish Place store . They have a huge crate to pick from .
Good luck !!!

Snaily ,
Also , I’ve learned not to make things much into a science projetct.
I use seachem Flourite substrate . It’s rich in iron and I think looks great in color . I turn off my air pump during the day and on at night . I use API Leaf Zone and API CO 2 booster . My plants look great and growing like weeds . I trim them a lot .
Also online price is almost half the store price . Since I have nerite , apple snails , Amano shrimp, and red cherry shrimp, I need to make sure the water is hard with calcium . I use Seachem - Equilibrium. Safe for your plants and fish . Other calcium products that have chlorides are not good for plants so stay away from those products .
Good luck , very exciting to setup a new tank . Only hobbyists alike understand that .
 
Kodie
  • #11
I tend to run overkill on equipment I honestly don't have a logical reason for most of it but that's neither here nor there. As for your heaters I usually run 2 of them at opposite ends of the tank. I usually run whatever size heater is necessary on both ends (I have 2 150w Jagers in my 75g.) As for your Filtration IMO bigger is better as you can always reduce the flow if need be. Personally I like canisters for the reasons stated above.
 
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DarkOne
  • #12
The guideline of 10x turnover is for HOBs. 4-8x turnover is for canisters. I like overkill so I go a step up (at least).

I have Fluval canisters (206, 306, 406 and FX4). I have a 306 on a 40 gallon breeder tank and it does well. I have a 406 and FX4 on my 75 gallon and LOVE the FX4. I originally got the FX4 to replace the 406 but I'm currently running both. I thought about moving the 406 to the 40 gallon but it doesn't seem to need more filtration. I don't use charcoal and have BioMax filling out 2 of 3 trays on it and 3 of 4 trays on the 406. You don't want to over pack the trays or it won't stack properly and/or will impede the flow.

With a taller 45g tank, the 406 wouldn't be a bad choice.
 
Sanderguy777
  • #13
I am an overkill guy... If I had had the money, my 60 gal would be running a fluval 406. But since I didn't, I have a penguin 350 and a sponge filter. My experience tells me that overkill is not necessary....
My tank is not planted but with only those relatively wimpy filters, my nitrates are fine.
The only thing that I would like about a canister in my tank is the ability to create a current and hence move any waste off the sand and into the canister....
So I guess that was just to let you know that it is possible to have fish without a nuclear reactor to clean the water :-b

By the way, what kind of fish are you planning on?
If cichlids, I would watch a few videos from Ben ochart and look hard at dual sunsuns.
Community can be anything from a sponge filter to an fx6....
 
Snaily
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
after I set mine up after a few days I realized I needed a power head to move additional water around because I had a huge dead spot,

Thanks for the insight! I had no idea about canister dead spots, mostly read about set up and filtration, etc.

I use multiple filters for reasons 1-5
Thankyou!!! You've helped quite a lot, that's really good to know. Once I can I'll tag a HoB filter along with my tank! I'll have to figure out how to set up the canister correctly to rememdy dead spots. I've had that quite a bit and I'm on a powerbackup now since without fail in heavy storms the powers goes out at least once every year in Canada

HI snaily ,
I recommend the Marineland c-220 good up to 55 gals . Also go to Petsmart or Chewy online
Another note, if you want a large selection of Malaysian driftwood
use seachem Flourite substrate, I use API Leaf Zone and API CO 2 booster I have nerite , apple snails , Amano shrimp, and red cherry shrimp, I need to make sure the water is hard with calcium . I use Seachem - Equilibrium. Safe for your plants and fish

OH wow I'll definitely check that out! Right now the Fluval is on sale but if its worth it, I'll pay the extra! I have the belief that since I'm choosing to have live 'animals' I have a responsibility to provide the best care. Yeah I've used some of those products and they work great, seachem is my go to brand. I used to use flourite substrate but mixed with sand it gets dug up and ruins the entire substrate so I've stuck to root tabs and ferz with my sand. The drift wood however I'm new to, so I'll go there and look!

The guideline of 10x turnover is for HOBs. 4-8x turnover is for canisters. I like overkill so I go a step up (at least).

I have Fluval canisters (206, 306, 406 and FX4). I have a 306 on a 40 gallon breeder tank and it does well. I have a 406 and FX4 on my 75 gallon and LOVE the FX4. I originally got the FX4 to replace the 406 but I'm currently running both. I thought about moving the 406 to the 40 gallon but it doesn't seem to need more filtration. I don't use charcoal and have BioMax filling out 2 of 3 trays on it and 3 of 4 trays on the 406. You don't want to over pack the trays or it won't stack properly and/or will impede the flow.

Oh wow then that's awesome, I'm still going a bit overkill since the 306 is for up to 70gallons vs my 45 gallon tank so I think it'll be awesome if you say your experience has gone well! I may have a different size aquarium, the one I picked up from petsmart today was cracked in the bottom.... I called and they said they would replace it but I hope they even have another of the same!

By the way, what kind of fish are you planning on?
If cichlids, I would watch a few videos from Ben ochart and look hard at dual sunsuns.
Community can be anything from a sponge filter to an fx6....

Sadly no cichlids, I am however going to pick up a school of Adolfoi Corydoras from Discus.com, Maybe a pleco and or possibly other types of peaceful fish. I honestly have not researched which fish I want yet too much other than corydoras! I'm not interested in predator fish though.
 
ParrotCichlid
  • #14
Go for the Fluval 406 Filter.

You can never have to much filtration. I repeat, never.

By installing the 406 on your tank all you do is essentially increase your beneficial bacteria colonization and overall tank stability. Tanks with overkill filtration can withstand longer without water changes with little detrimental changes in water quality.

I aI'm for a 12 times a hour turn over rate in all my tanks but I have had up to 30 times the volume each hour on some smaller overstocked tanks.
 
Wraithen
  • #15
Go for the Fluval 406 Filter.

You can never have to much filtration. I repeat, never.

By installing the 406 on your tank all you do is essentially increase your beneficial bacteria colonization and overall tank stability. Tanks with overkill filtration can withstand longer without water changes with little detrimental changes in water quality.

I aI'm for a 12 times a hour turn over rate in all my tanks but I have had up to 30 times the volume each hour on some smaller overstocked tanks.
My only concern with the bigger idea for the OP would be flow. Is it adjustable on this can? I agree you can't overfilter, but flow can become a concern.

Also, how does more filter change water change schedule? You're still going to have the same amount of ammonia converted to nitrites and then nitrates. Most people do water change to get rid of nitrates so... without a special reactor to remove nitrates... what gives here?
 
ParrotCichlid
  • #16
My only concern with the bigger idea for the OP would be flow. Is it adjustable on this can? I agree you can't overfilter, but flow can become a concern.

Also, how does more filter change water change schedule? You're still going to have the same amount of ammonia converted to nitrites and then nitrates. Most people do water change to get rid of nitrates so... without a special reactor to remove nitrates... what gives here?

The 406 canister filter turns the OPs tank water just over 9 times each hour. 9 times is really nothing and would at the minimum end of what I would choose for a 45g tank. Really, for a healthy, stable aquarium the filtration should provide 8-12 turn overs each hour with 8 being the minimum.

Providing you put the outlet from the 406 at one end of the tank, low down ideally a few inches above the substrate you shouldn't have flow problems.

About the water changes, its not just nitrates. Most fish can handle low amounts of nitrates in the water. Most of them fish will begin to suffer detrimental effects from the slightest ammonia. I know most of my heavily stocked tanks started to get a build up of ammonia after 2 or more weeks without a water change. Upgrading the filtration sorted that out in most of the cases.

Aquariums run on beneficial bacteria. The more room for colonization the more stable the setup will be overall.

But if you did want to handle the nitrates too then that isn't hard. Building a nitrate reactor is simple and takes about 20 minutes with a few basic parts. I've been meaning to put a few nitrate reactors together, when I get round to it I will probably do a DIY thread on building them.
 
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Wraithen
  • #17
I'm curious as to why you build up ammonia at all. I've never heard of that happening after cycling. If I skip changes my nitrates are the only thing I have.
 
ParrotCichlid
  • #18
I'm curious as to why you build up ammonia at all. I've never heard of that happening after cycling. If I skip changes my nitrates are the only thing I have.

I've always thought it was due to not enough BB to adequately handle the bio load of the aquarium.

Practically doubling the filtration seemed to solve the problem. I still get nitrates building up after 2 weeks but they aren't at dangerous levels. Manageable with 2 week water changes thankfully
 
FriarThomasIII
  • #19
As long as the filter has enough flow for your fish tank's size, you just need filter media. As long as there is water flow through and around the bacteria media, it filters the tank. Add any accessories and other filter media wherever you can put it will drastically increase filtration.
aquarium coop has a wonder video I recommend watching.
 
Sanderguy777
  • #20
[QUOTE="
Sadly no cichlids, I am however going to pick up a school of Adolfoi Corydoras from Discus.com, Maybe a pleco and or possibly other types of peaceful fish. I honestly have not researched which fish I want yet too much other than corydoras! I'm not interested in predator fish though.[/QUOTE]

That's me!
I have bottom feeders and got angelfish as an after thought lol
 
Thunder_o_b
  • #21
Marineland Magnaflow 360. We have three and love them.
 
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Thunder_o_b
  • #22
My only concern with the bigger idea for the OP would be flow. Is it adjustable on this can? I agree you can't overfilter, but flow can become a concern.

Also, how does more filter change water change schedule? You're still going to have the same amount of ammonia converted to nitrites and then nitrates. Most people do water change to get rid of nitrates so... without a special reactor to remove nitrates... what gives here?
One of the big things most people miss is the need to export organics BEFORE they enter the nitrogen cycle. Properly serviced filters do this. Sadly most people think that having the filters run till they slow down then cleaning them is ok. It is not...Unless you like water changes. We clean our filters every two weeks. HOB's then the next two weeks the canisters. So in answer to your question, the greater the filtration the lower the need for water changes IF you properly service the filters to export the organics.
 
Wraithen
  • #23
One of the big things most people miss is the need to export organics BEFORE they enter the nitrogen cycle. Properly serviced filters do this. Sadly most people think that having the filters run till they slow down then cleaning them is ok. It is not...Unless you like water changes. We clean our filters every two weeks. HOB's then the next two weeks the canisters. So in answer to your question, the greater the filtration the lower the need for water changes IF you properly service the filters to export the organics.
I get all of that. I guess what I meant to say, or was trying to say tactfully, is that you don't need super high flow to get your filtration, you need enough bb, bio media, and flow. Excessive filtration, while it doesn't hurt, won't be any better at export of those elements on its own, than normal filtration.
 
Thunder_o_b
  • #24
I get all of that. I guess what I meant to say, or was trying to say tactfully, is that you don't need super high flow to get your filtration, you need enough bb, bio media, and flow. Excessive filtration, while it doesn't hurt, won't be any better at export of those elements on its own, than normal filtration.
Bio media does not export organics, it converts organics in the cycle. The first stage of the canister and the cartrages in a Bio wheel HOB trap non converted organics. You then remove the media/cartriges thus removing the organics. The bio media is only good for dealing with ammonia once the organics are being broken down.
 
fissh
  • #25
get the 406
200watts is great for your tank
the Fluval 2.0 plant light is a real good plant light
there is no such thing as over filtering, I use canisters that are rated for 200 gallon tanks on 40 gallons.
all the tanks in the pictures use Fluval 2.0's and Fluval E series.


DSCN4466.JPG
DSCN4475.JPG
DSCN4476.JPG
 
Thunder_o_b
  • #26
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ParrotCichlid
  • #27
I get all of that. I guess what I meant to say, or was trying to say tactfully, is that you don't need super high flow to get your filtration, you need enough bb, bio media, and flow. Excessive filtration, while it doesn't hurt, won't be any better at export of those elements on its own, than normal filtration.

When I say over filtering I don't mean hooking up a huge pump to a filter with the same amount of media. Over filtering means upgrading the filter, more flow, more media ect.

If you could hook up the Fluval 306 pump to the 406 canister filter you would see that it wouldn't work very well. In general larger filtration with more media requires stronger flow to work adequately, in canister filters.
 
Wraithen
  • #28
Bio media does not export organics, it converts organics in the cycle. The first stage of the canister and the cartrages in a Bio wheel HOB trap non converted organics. You then remove the media/cartriges thus removing the organics. The bio media is only good for dealing with ammonia once the organics are being broken down.
Ok, now I'm picking up whay you're putting down. But until those trapped parts are removed, they are in fact slowly becoming converted.
 
Sanderguy777
  • #29
Not sure how often he does water changes, but primetime aquatics uses 3 sponge filters on an Oscar tank...
 
Snaily
  • Thread Starter
  • #30
That's me!
I have bottom feeders and got angelfish as an after thought lol

I'm so far 100%, only ever getting one pleco, and that's a gold nugget pleco + 7 adolfoi corydoras. As for the higher areas of the tank; not too sure yet.
 

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