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thank you for your answer, let me explain my situation, I have 16 days doing fishless cycling the ph was stable 8.0 from my tap water, my ammonia wasnt dropping 2pmm since the beggining I had .25ppm nitrites so I went to my lfs and they told me that the water in our town is hard with a lot of heavy minerals, so they recommend me to do a 50% water change with RO Water So I did it 2 days ago, and thats why im pretty sure that the ph is now lower than 8.0, for me match exactly the color of 7.4 hr but i dont know why on the normal range is 7.6, btw its a 45g tank,FishGirl38 said:Have you tried laying the tubes down horizontally next to the color ranges? I find that helps me see and compare the colors better.
If you're unsure still, you could try re-testing to see if the results are different (if the first test was flawed at all). If anything, look for hues or color tones - if it's darker, go with the darker number. If it's lighter, go with lighter, more green instead of blue, etc...that's how I discern when I can't quite tell.
Right now, in a fishless cycle, the PH is not extremely important to take note of. At least, not down to the .2 - so long as you get a general idea of where your PH is on average and that is stays constant, that's the important part. You can assume your PH is between 7.6 and 8.0. A little on the higher side, but tolerable for most robust freshwater community fish.
Since you're mentioning you're just starting out and you're new on here, Welcome! and as a personal piece of advice about PH (I like to over-inform), if you need to change it (make it higher or lower) I (personally) dont recommend using liquid buffers, instead try natural methods - like peat/driftwood/tannins (to lower) or crushed coral/coral stone (to increase).
Additionally, researching GH/KH and alkalinity (related to KH) might [be confusing at first] help you understand the whole PH measure better.
I left my entire take on PH on this thread, if you're just getting started out and are unsure of some things about it still.
Filter Replacement Cycle Issue Help - | 463892 | Filters and Filtration
thank you for your help.FishGirl38 said:Best bet, I think, would be that it stays steady. Considering your water is hard, you may want to consider this in the future as you're doing water changes. Perhaps a 50% change of your tank water with 25% replacement being tap water and 25% replacement being R/O water (or a similar ratio) would be better than only using one or the other in the future (so as to not continue to regularly increase or decrease your PH).
The R/O water that I used has no minerals.mattgirl said:To be perfectly honest I don't see a problem with your pH. It is better to work with what you have instead of going down the rabbit hole and trying to get perfect numbers by using water from 2 different sources. I would balk at having to buy RO water. Do you know if they re-mineralized the RO water?
As long as your pH is consistent in my humble opinion it is better to work with what you have instead of trying to get to a specific number. I am seeing 7.6 Having the ability to test both high and low pH has caused a lot of confusion for a lot of folks. The reason for the test kit containing both is because some folks do have a very high pH and need the high pH test. I don't see the need in your case to use that test.
I have always felt it is best to work with what we have. If I had to buy water to supplement my tap water my fear would be the day would come when I had to do an emergency water change and couldn't get any of the supplemental water. If you are making your own that may never happen though. 8.0/8.2 is on the higher side but as long as you have fish that are comfortable with that number, it isn't too high.Jorgenp12 said:The R/O water that I used has no minerals.
But since my tap water is very mineralized I think is a good idea to use always 50%tap water and 50% R/O, am I wrong? or what do you think?
btw my tap water is always between 8.0 and 8.2 ph, I think is a little bit hight right?