Fert regime for low tech, 2 gallon bowl

Joshaeus

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Hi everyone! I just got my 2 gallon bubble bowl in the mail today, the one that will eventually house my female Betta smaragdina, Prisca. I am not immediately able to set it up, but I want to be prepared for when I do...

With that in mind, I have come up with a dosing regime for this bowl. How does this sound?
Once per week;
- .125 ml Nilo CG GH booster (2.53 ppm K, 1.3 ppm C, .26 ppm Mg)
- .015 ml plantex CSM+B (.11 ppm Fe, .024 ppm Mg)
- .03 ml KNO3 (3.31 ppm NO3, 2.08 ppm K)
- .015 ml KH2PO4 (1.55 ppm PO4, .64 ppm K)

Total macronutrients; 3.31 ppm NO3, 1.55 ppm PO4, 5.21 ppm K. Unsure whether I will be doing regular WC's...the guide I found recommended not doing so unless you did extensive pruning. The lean nitrate levels were intended to encourage red tones in red plants, such as brown hygro. Thanks :)
 

-Mak-

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Really curious, where did you get the bowl? I've been thinking about doing a bowl aquarium for a while but haven't found a good one yet!

Fert regime looks good imo. How heavily planted will it be?
 
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Joshaeus

Joshaeus

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-Mak- said:
Really curious, where did you get the bowl? I've been thinking about doing a bowl aquarium for a while but haven't found a good one yet!

Fert regime looks good imo. How heavily planted will it be?
- they have a second, discounted listing if you buy two of these bowls. After shipping, this bowl was just shy of $23.

The tank is going to be stuffed with plants. I was going to let it cycle for a month in darkness before introducing the plants. Here's the bowl;

Prisca bowl.jpeg
 
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Joshaeus

Joshaeus

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RDcompton03 said:
Why complicate it? Buy a good quality fert and dose to its recommendations.
Good question! I do have Thrive C lying around; however, it does not directly list how much it adds to the tank (only the fertilizer percentages of the product itself). I wanted more control than that.
 

RDcompton03

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The dose for Thrive is 1 squirt for each 10 gal. In a low tech tank I would do half the recommended dosing maybe once a week and go up from there depending on the condition of the tank and plants. In my low tech 10 I dose one squirt of Easy Green once a week and one third of a cap of Flourish once a week. Tank and plant are really doing well and look good
contest.jpg
 

YellowGuppy

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I'm curious about the methodology - how do you plan on reliably measuring 0.03ml of something on a regular basis? What kind of equipment are you using for these measurements?
 

RDcompton03

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Thats a bit like asking how you reliably measure water parameters. All your test kits do is get you close and some are better than others. I dont get overly concerned about the exact measurement of the .03ml. Its not really that important. A few drops more, a few drops less really wont make that much difference. Thrive and Easy Green tells you to add a "squirt." How precise is a squirt. Ultimately I judge the effectiveness of the method by the results.
 
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Joshaeus

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RDcompton03 said:
The dose for Thrive is 1 squirt for each 10 gal. In a low tech tank I would do half the recommended dosing maybe once a week and go up from there depending on the condition of the tank and plants. In my low tech 10 I dose one squirt of Easy Green once a week and one third of a cap of Flourish once a week. Tank and plant are really doing well and look good
Nice tank :) Thrive C is from the same company as Thrive but is less potent. Unfortunately, unlike regular thrive, the bottle does not state how much nitrogen, phosphorous, etc. each pump adds to the water; it just recommends 1-2 ml a week per 5 gallons. Thrive C is also missing from the Rotala butterfly nutrient calculator, for some reason.

YellowGuppy said:
I'm curious about the methodology - how do you plan on reliably measuring 0.03ml of something on a regular basis? What kind of equipment are you using for these measurements?
Excellent question! My smallest measuring spoons are .15 ml, so I would be premixing the ferts with water and bottling what I do not immediately use.
 

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Joshaeus said:
The tank is going to be stuffed with plants. I was going to let it cycle for a month in darkness before introducing the plants. Here's the bowl;
I guess I don't understand the reason for this bowl to be kept in darkness to cycle it and without plants. What is your ammonia source going to be? Were I doing this I would go ahead and plant it. Give it a few drops of ammonia as needed and let the cycle grow that way. Just because I would do it that way doesn't mean however you are doing it won't work though. :)

BTW: I do have a bowl much the same size as this one. It is mostly a plant bowl but does have a few snails living in it. Mine sits right inside a north facing window so it gets plenty of light without having a light on it. Mine doesn't have a normal filter but I do run an airstone inserted inside a pre-filter sponge in it.

This bowl gets a squirt of Thrice C after each weekly water change. I don't have any red plants though so am not a concerned with the nutrients and the light necessary to keep them red. If I were I might have to consider your fert dosing regiment.

I originally set it up to house a few shrimp but haven't taken the plunge yet. They would be pretty spendy for me since I would have to order them online and pay a pretty hefty shipping charge for them. I am afraid after paying so much for them they would end up dying on me so have been holding off on getting any.
 

californiascape

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:( are you sure you want to put a female smaragdina in a tiny 2 gallon? she really would be happier in a bigger tank, at least 5g. these fish are just so active if kept properly, I feel like a 2 really isn't enough swimming room
 
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Joshaeus

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mattgirl said:
I guess I don't understand the reason for this bowl to be kept in darkness to cycle it and without plants. What is your ammonia source going to be? Were I doing this I would go ahead and plant it. Give it a few drops of ammonia as needed and let the cycle grow that way. Just because I would do it that way doesn't mean however you are doing it won't work though. :)

BTW: I do have a bowl much the same size as this one. It is mostly a plant bowl but does have a few snails living in it. Mine sits right inside a north facing window so it gets plenty of light without having a light on it. Mine doesn't have a normal filter but I do run an airstone inserted inside a pre-filter sponge in it.

This bowl gets a squirt of Thrice C after each weekly water change. I don't have any red plants though so am not a concerned with the nutrients and the light necessary to keep them red. If I were I might have to consider your fert dosing regiment.

I originally set it up to house a few shrimp but haven't taken the plunge yet. They would be pretty spendy for me since I would have to order them online and pay a pretty hefty shipping charge for them. I am afraid after paying so much for them they would end up dying on me so have been holding off on getting any.
Thanks for your experiences :) this bowl is going to have a substrate of 3 parts pool filter sand to 1 part top soil; while the top soil will likely leach some ammonia, I was also going to add very small amounts of cleaning ammonia as well (for comparison, my 5 gallon high tech tank I am cycling right now is getting .5 ml of a mixture of 1 part cleaning ammonia - itself only 5-10% ammonia - to 9 parts water). Ammonia is exceedingly good at promoting algae growth, so I wanted to get the tank mostly/entirely cycled before adding the plants. I will also be using an air pump, but it will be attached to an air lift tube, hopefully promoting a more circular, regular flow than a standard air powered filter.

californiascape said:
:( are you sure you want to put a female smaragdina in a tiny 2 gallon? she really would be happier in a bigger tank, at least 5g. these fish are just so active if kept properly, I feel like a 2 really isn't enough swimming room
She's already in a tank that size, and it doesn't seem to have made her any more lethargic. She's actually more active than my male smaragdina (Azure) in my 5 gallon. Thanks for your concern, though :)
 

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About dosing, the only thing I can add is that NiloCg uses nitrogen (instead of no3, what you want) and P205 instead of po4. So it isn't ideal for the plant's nutrient uptake.
 

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californiascape said:
About dosing, the only thing I can add is that NiloCg uses nitrogen (instead of no3, what you want) and P205 instead of po4. So it isn't ideal for the plant's nutrient uptake.
I don't think this is a concern, P2O5 reacts quite violently in water to form H3PO4, which I believe may then further react to lose the H and become the plant preferred H2PO4 or HPO4. Depending on pH and such. At least in soil, PO4 isn't the usual form for uptake.

Also I'm quite sure they use NO3 in their fertilizers, there isn't really a form of free N as nitrogen, and KNO3 would be the easiest and simplest to use.
 

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