Emergency help - severe finrot in small ranchu

HELP PLEASE!
Have been given a ranchu from a friend who did not know how to look after it and the poor thing is SERIOUSLY ill with fin rot to the point where it barely has any tail left at all.

It was previously being kept in a 35l cube which as far as I can tell was uncycled; it was dirty and as far as I could see had little to no cycle established (ammonia burns before fish arrived which I got under control with WC) and the finrot was progressing rapidly despite daily 50% water changes.

I've now moved it into a 60l temporary Ciano tank with a U2 fluval filter I removed from my cycled 200l fluval. The plan is for the ranchu to join my other goldfish in the 200 when its healthy. I've only just moved the ranchu and filter into the ciano so haven't been able to establish how the cycle in there looks yet as the filter I've removed from my main tank was only in there brielfly and so I'm not 100% how established the bacteria colonies are in it but I'm planning on testing water tonight when the ranchu has been in there 24hrs to establish some baseline parameters.

I'm struggling to keep the finrot at bay and it actually seems to have gotten a lot worse; the fish barely has any tail left and the rot is effecting its other fins as well.

How can I treat this? I don't have a particular hospital tank (The ciano was supposed to be that but the ranchu will need to live in this until it is bigger after recovery as it's a lot smaller than the fish I have in the 200.) I also don't have any other filter media I can spare for a makeshift hospital tank as I've used it in this new tank, and I have no idea how I should use medications as I have never had to before.

I have Myaxin finrot treatment, Esha 2000 and aquarium salt to hand after seeing all of these treatments recommended but I am seeing so much conflicting advice that I don't know what to do or which is the right course of treatment.

I'm also using Seachem Prime as a water conditioner and conscious of the fact that it can't be used with some medications such as Esha. How can I medicate this fish while also performing water changes, and what is the best course of action to treat the finrot for this poor fish?

Thank you

 

HELP PLEASE!
Have been given a ranchu from a friend who did not know how to look after it and the poor thing is SERIOUSLY ill with fin rot to the point where it barely has any tail left at all.

It was previously being kept in a 35l cube which as far as I can tell was uncycled; it was dirty and as far as I could see had little to no cycle established (ammonia burns before fish arrived which I got under control with WC) and the finrot was progressing rapidly despite daily 50% water changes.

I've now moved it into a 60l temporary Ciano tank with a U2 fluval filter I removed from my cycled 200l fluval. The plan is for the ranchu to join my other goldfish in the 200 when its healthy. I've only just moved the ranchu and filter into the ciano so haven't been able to establish how the cycle in there looks yet as the filter I've removed from my main tank was only in there brielfly and so I'm not 100% how established the bacteria colonies are in it but I'm planning on testing water tonight when the ranchu has been in there 24hrs to establish some baseline parameters.

I'm struggling to keep the finrot at bay and it actually seems to have gotten a lot worse; the fish barely has any tail left and the rot is effecting its other fins as well.

How can I treat this? I don't have a particular hospital tank (The ciano was supposed to be that but the ranchu will need to live in this until it is bigger after recovery as it's a lot smaller than the fish I have in the 200.) I also don't have any other filter media I can spare for a makeshift hospital tank as I've used it in this new tank, and I have no idea how I should use medications as I have never had to before.

I have Myaxin finrot treatment, Esha 2000 and aquarium salt to hand after seeing all of these treatments recommended but I am seeing so much conflicting advice that I don't know what to do or which is the right course of treatment.

I'm also using Seachem Prime as a water conditioner and conscious of the fact that it can't be used with some medications such as Esha. How can I medicate this fish while also performing water changes, and what is the best course of action to treat the finrot for this poor fish?

Thank you

Try seachem stressguard, it has healing properties, and do 25% water changes daily and follow the instructions on the bottle for stressguard. I would treat the water with it every 2-3 days. GL

 

Salt 2tbs per 10g and change water regularly readied the salt that was removed.

 

Salt 2tbs per 10g and change water regularly readied the salt that was removed.

Thank you, would a salt bath/dip in e.g. a bucket be useful at all or would you recommend salting the entire tank? Have used these before with my fish to relieve swim bladder and constipation so feel fairly confident with the dip but less so with salting the whole tank, which I've not done before.

My only concern with salting the tank itself is that this does seem quite advanced indeed and I'd rather not do anything to the tank which would prolong any time window in which I could add medication if that does turn out to be necessary.

 

I would actually do 2 tbsp per 5 gallon to start, especially if the fin rot is severe. Goldfish have a high salt tolerance so they can take it. You can always increase salt concentration if you see no improvements, just be sure to remember how much you put in.

I would recommend salting the whole tank vs a dip since it is less stressful for the fish. It's not as advanced as it may seem. You just need to pair it with water changes and replace a proportionate amount of salt (e.g. if you do a 50% WC dissolve 1 tbsp back into the water to keep concentration of the tank at 2 tbsp/5 gallon). In the past when I've used salt I would usually do a 50% WC every 2 days and re-dose the salt.

 

This is all so helpful, thank you so much. How do I go about correct dosing, given the displaced water from the filter, substrate etc? Concerned that the margin for error may be slim and obviously don't want to overdose by assuming the tank's full capacity is the exact amount of water.

Likewise with WC, obviously the removed amount is dependent on which container it's emptied into but also exact amount is never 100% certain - I would be estimating how much salt was removed to replace as closely as possible. Any tips on getting this amount as exact as possible would be so helpful if salting the whole tank is what's needed.

 

This is all so helpful, thank you so much. How do I go about correct dosing, given the displaced water from the filter, substrate etc? Concerned that the margin for error may be slim and obviously don't want to overdose by assuming the tank's full capacity is the exact amount of water.

Likewise with WC, obviously the removed amount is dependent on which container it's emptied into but also exact amount is never 100% certain - I would be estimating how much salt was removed to replace as closely as possible. Any tips on getting this amount as exact as possible would be so helpful if salting the whole tank is what's needed.

Luckily the margin of error isn't as slim as you think. Like I mentioned goldfish have a really high salt tolerance. My 2tbsp/5 gallon recommendation is on the much lower side and you might even have to increase it if you don't see improvement within a few days of treatment. I would just estimate it but keep the dosage consistent. Even if it's over 2 tbsp/5 gallon you're still well within the safe range. The most intense salt treatments are 1 tbsp / gallon.

Yes, but if you can easily eyeball/estimate how much you remove. If you look at the tank and remove 50% of the water each time then it's close enough to 100% certain +/- a few mL. You could also do this by having an exact container/bucket that you know the volume of. Though, I usually just look at the tank to gauge how much water I've removed. It's more important that you make sure the salt is fully dissolved in water before you add that water to the tank.

 

I would actually do 2 tbsp per 5 gallon to start, especially if the fin rot is severe. Goldfish have a high salt tolerance so they can take it. You can always increase salt concentration if you see no improvements, just be sure to remember how much you put in.

I would recommend salting the whole tank vs a dip since it is less stressful for the fish. It's not as advanced as it may seem. You just need to pair it with water changes and replace a proportionate amount of salt (e.g. if you do a 50% WC dissolve 1 tbsp back into the water to keep concentration of the tank at 2 tbsp/5 gallon). In the past when I've used salt I would usually do a 50% WC every 2 days and re-dose the salt.

Just to clarify - is this US gallons for dosing? I'm in UK and about to begin dissolving salt so just checking I have the amount correct. Tank is around 60l, I'd say probably 50l full.

 

Just to clarify - is this US gallons for dosing? I'm in UK and about to begin dissolving salt so just checking I have the amount correct. Tank is around 60l, I'd say probably 50l full.

Yes, I meant US gallons.

 

HELP PLEASE!
Have been given a ranchu from a friend who did not know how to look after it and the poor thing is SERIOUSLY ill with fin rot to the point where it barely has any tail left at all.

It was previously being kept in a 35l cube which as far as I can tell was uncycled; it was dirty and as far as I could see had little to no cycle established (ammonia burns before fish arrived which I got under control with WC) and the finrot was progressing rapidly despite daily 50% water changes.

I've now moved it into a 60l temporary Ciano tank with a U2 fluval filter I removed from my cycled 200l fluval. The plan is for the ranchu to join my other goldfish in the 200 when its healthy. I've only just moved the ranchu and filter into the ciano so haven't been able to establish how the cycle in there looks yet as the filter I've removed from my main tank was only in there brielfly and so I'm not 100% how established the bacteria colonies are in it but I'm planning on testing water tonight when the ranchu has been in there 24hrs to establish some baseline parameters.

I'm struggling to keep the finrot at bay and it actually seems to have gotten a lot worse; the fish barely has any tail left and the rot is effecting its other fins as well.

How can I treat this? I don't have a particular hospital tank (The ciano was supposed to be that but the ranchu will need to live in this until it is bigger after recovery as it's a lot smaller than the fish I have in the 200.) I also don't have any other filter media I can spare for a makeshift hospital tank as I've used it in this new tank, and I have no idea how I should use medications as I have never had to before.

I have Myaxin finrot treatment, Esha 2000 and aquarium salt to hand after seeing all of these treatments recommended but I am seeing so much conflicting advice that I don't know what to do or which is the right course of treatment.

I'm also using Seachem Prime as a water conditioner and conscious of the fact that it can't be used with some medications such as Esha. How can I medicate this fish while also performing water changes, and what is the best course of action to treat the finrot for this poor fish?

Thank you

Stressguard is a aquarist must have, you can give it to your fish therapeutically prophylactically, to prevent any disease that may occur in the fish tank hobby. Research it ,it also replaces damaged fin or skin and replenishes the slimecoat and doesn't include medication, It the less invasive approach and very safe. The other methods may kill your fish, as salt is toxic to the fishes kidneys.GL

 

Luckily the margin of error isn't as slim as you think. Like I mentioned goldfish have a really high salt tolerance. My 2tbsp/5 gallon recommendation is on the much lower side and you might even have to increase it if you don't see improvement within a few days of treatment. I would just estimate it but keep the dosage consistent. Even if it's over 2 tbsp/5 gallon you're still well within the safe range. The most intense salt treatments are 1 tbsp / gallon.

Yes, but if you can easily eyeball/estimate how much you remove. If you look at the tank and remove 50% of the water each time then it's close enough to 100% certain +/- a few mL. You could also do this by having an exact container/bucket that you know the volume of. Though, I usually just look at the tank to gauge how much water I've removed. It's more important that you make sure the salt is fully dissolved in water before you add that water to the tank.

I added the salt treatment at a ratio of 2 tbsp per 5 Gallon and after adding it realised I had spilled some of the solution on my hob whilst sloshing the water around the pan to get it to dissolve, I am now worried about how much actually went in of that dose now and also about doing water changes and then adding more salt in as I don't know how much is in the tank. I am thinking about doing a 100% change over the next couple of days to clear treatment and start again with the correct dose for sure but also worried in case my boy does not make it through the stress of the water changes without the treatment working as the dose is too low.

Stressguard is a aquarist must have, you can give it to your fish therapeutically prophylactically, to prevent any disease that may occur in the fish tank hobby. Research it ,it also replaces damaged fin or skin and replenishes the slimecoat and doesn't include medication, It the less invasive approach and very safe. The other methods may kill your fish, as salt is toxic to the fishes kidneys.GL

Thank you

 

I added the salt treatment at a ratio of 2 tbsp per 5 Gallon and after adding it realised I had spilled some of the solution on my hob whilst sloshing the water around the pan to get it to dissolve, I am now worried about how much actually went in of that dose now and also about doing water changes and then adding more salt in as I don't know how much is in the tank. I am thinking about doing a 100% change over the next couple of days to clear treatment and start again with the correct dose for sure but also worried in case my boy does not make it through the stress of the water changes without the treatment working as the dose is too low.

So, the salt concentration you intended was added but you splashed some salt water into into the filter. Your total salt concentration should be the same unless you added more after the spill. I'm confused why you think you overdosed the salt? The salt may affect the cycle in the tank, but clean water is more important then a cycle in this case. Unfortunately this means a lot of WCs.

 

So, the salt concentration you intended was added but you splashed some salt water into into the filter. Your total salt concentration should be the same unless you added more after the spill. I'm confused why you think you overdosed the salt? The salt may affect the cycle in the tank, but clean water is more important then a cycle in this case. Unfortunately this means a lot of WCs.

Sorry, I meant on my stovetop while I was heating and dissolving the salt, I am worried that I have now underdosed because of the spillage on my stovetop.

 

Ok salt will desolve in the tank no need to desolve before adding. Salt is very hard to overdose. So don’t worry. How much was lost. At 2 tbs per 5g if you change out 10g of water replace with 4 tbs of salt with new water. Again you can’t overdose salt. And there no such thing as underdoseing . So no worries .

 

Hello,
First of all thanks for all of your fantastic advice, I have done a 50%WC and replaced the salt with the appropriate amount.

A few things to note, yesterday his tail looked a bit fluffy but now he has very little of his tail fin left and it looks as if a sore is developing at the base of his tail.
The tips of his fins are now also looking a bit fluffy and he has a dark mark that has formed on his head I think this may be because he was getting bounced into the tank yesterday due to having no tail or dorsal fin to stabilise himself. Today he is moving around more and able to eat with more ease

What I am most worried about is the tail rot moving into his body with the sore that is now developing.

Thanks again.

 

Pictures will help. It sounds like a fungus is grow over the fin rot.

 

Pictures will help. It sounds like a fungus is grow over the fin rot.

Hi,

the sore was visible even before the tail had rotted down this far, it's only on one side of the body and looks a darker red in this picture due to the flash on the phone camera.

There was originally a plastic plant in with the fish which was causing cuts, I took it out at the beginning of treatment as I saw a long cut along the body from it (which has since healed) so could be that. Hoping it isn't body rot but it was definitely there before the rot reached this far down the tail also, it's only on one side.

The tail itself has the little 'bone' parts sticking out of it still, and he struggling with mobility because he has so little fin left on the tail but is *definitely* able to move around when needed and is eating well also the white string behind the fish in the net is poo as it hasn't been fed as much the past 24 hours so as to not dirty the water

 

Aww poor baby...

 

That is much more severe than I thought. Is there any improvement with the salt? If not I’d double the dose. Next and I’m no expert on fish diseases is I’d try erythromycin. It’s an antibiotic and may help.

 

That is much more severe than I thought. Is there any improvement with the salt? If not I’d double the dose. Next and I’m no expert on fish diseases is I’d try erythromycin. It’s an antibiotic and may help.

Hey, I am UK based so cannot purchase antibiotics over here. The salt has definitely helped somewhat but in that case might be worth increasing the dose anyway? Have dosed with Myxazin as well under advice from LFS, hoping it's helping but worrying about how quickly it's progressed (photo from 6 days ago shows only the tiniest of splits in the tail) and how close it is to the body.

Have looked into ordering antibiotics online but they will take over a month to arrive and the only vet who sees fish that I can find is over an hour drive away.

 

Buy some medicated flakes, metronidazole works as an antibiotic and an antifungal, the fish digests it and it starts working after the 2 or 3rd day. You feed this and only this for 7 days. You can also give it to the fish monthly to prevent disease prophylactically. But only as a one time dose.

This poor fish , this must have been going on for a while. Poor baby.
Do you also gravel vac your tank, and how often are you cleaning the sponges/ biobeads in your filtration system?

 

Flake Food

Buy some medicated flakes, metronidazole works as an antibiotic and an antifungal, the fish digests it and it starts working after the 2 or 3rd day. You feed this and only this for 7 days. You can also give it to the fish monthly to prevent disease prophylactically. But only as a one time dose.


This poor fish , this must have been going on for a while. Poor baby.
Do you also gravel vac your tank, and how often are you cleaning the sponges/ biobeads in your filtration system?

Thank you so much for that link - they look great but unfortunately I'm not based in the US so it's a case of finding them or getting them here from elsewhere fast enough.

Yes all hygiene has been taken very seriously since I acquired the fish but as stated in my OP it was originally with somebody else in a small, uncycled tank with an inbuilt filter in a small back compartment which I think was quite dirty, so I'm guessing that's where the problem stems from. When I agreed to take the fish on (while initially still in the cube) I began large water changes but the rot still developed during this time so I'm guessing there was something going on in the back area of the filter compartment.

But yes - the fish is now in a 60L quarantine tank without substrate (a few stones from my established 200l but no gravel or sand atm) and a cycled filter from my established tank. Am feeding very sparingly while medicating so as to not dirty the water unnecessarily but am doing lots of cleaning during WCs.

Thanks again for the link to those flakes - I'm really grateful. I'll keep on looking and hopefully find some over here or try to order from that site and hope they arrive. So frustrating they aren't more readily available here though, but for now I'm keeping up the salt and hygiene and trying to find them

 

Keep us updated...

 

Hello, first of all thanks so much for your help on here, I do have an update and a new set of questions which I would really appreciate some more serious help with!

So after ensuring the water in my ranchu's hospital tank was as pristine as possible I began a 5 day course of Myxazin, which seems to be the closest to medicine available in the UK where I live. This really seemed to yield some results and the infection seemed to not only slow but to stop completely and the little piece of skin missing on my ranchu's back actually healed up really nicely as well.

However, since stopping the treatment I've noticed this clear-ish, almost slimy looking texture developing on my ranchu's tail. I'm wondering whether this is new fin growth / healing (although I think it's too soon to see healing fins?) or a secondary fungus that's taken hold. OR it could even be the finrot returning, which worries me greatly after seeing such a vast improvement.

The fins don't look red anymore, thankfully, and the fish seems fantastic in terms of activity and appetite - aside from a bit of a struggle steering which is clearly the result of so much lost fin, the little fish seems completely fine in terms of normal behaviour and happily swims about.

I've noticed today that as well as this clear slimy texture on the fin, the outline is actually a little bit black today - very worrying as the ammonia levels in the tank are fine and so I can't think what may be causing this except from the horrible assumption that we are now dealing with yet more finrot or something else.

Any ideas primarily on what this slimy texture is, and what to do about it? Thank you.

Keep us updated...

That is much more severe than I thought. Is there any improvement with the salt? If not I’d double the dose. Next and I’m no expert on fish diseases is I’d try erythromycin. It’s an antibiotic and may help.

Also I have been dosing with salt at 0.3%. During the worst stage of the finrot the fish had a big black spot cross his face, this has completely cleared up now with the treatment thankfully so to see black forming on the fins again is very upsetting!

It's not the easiest to see the consistency in these pictures ^ but as he's so active it's been hard to get a clear photo. The tail looks almost slimy. It isn't always running off the fins into the water, but it is certainly on the tail almost resembling a fin sometimes (if only). I wouldn't say it's fuzzy, certainly it doesn't look like hairs and I wouldn't say it looks like a traditionally fluffy fungus type of thing. Just like a milky slime - probably best visible in the first photo but it covers more of the tail than the photo shows. The rays of the fins are covered, but its only on the tail fins, none of the others.

Thank you.

 

If anybody knows what this slime type growth on the tail is or why it's turned black I would really appreciate the help! Thank you