Eclipse System 12 Stocking Ideas?

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Phonemonkey

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I'm going to have to re-run the tests... this is really confusing...

It sounds like you're familiar with the AP Freshwater Master Test Kit, well when I run the normal pH test, it gives me a color somewhere between 7 and 7.2.... but... when I run the high range pH, it gives me a color around 8.0-8.2?!

According to the instructions, if the pH was actually 8.0-8.2, the normal range pH test should just be maxing out. At the same time, if the pH was actually 7-7.2, the high range pH test should be at the minimum value ???

EDIT: A guy I work with told me he just uses the water from our water cooler for his tank. I tested a sample of that stuff, and it gives me a reading of around 6.4 (I think, I'm finding it hard to compare the color of the water to the color charts) which seems really really low...
 

Tamara

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Larger Species (would only get 1):
-Dwarf Gourami
-Platies
-Bettas
-Guppies
-Corydoras

Small Species (would get at least 6):
-White Clouds
-Neon Tetras
-Cherry Barbs


i know there's been lots of responses already, but in my opinion it matters if you want them to be...breeding?
if not then i wouldn't really go with teh guppies,or platies, unless if you get all males/all females
i have an albino corydoras he is absolutly amazing! i would definetly recommend it for beginners...
i didn't know about the "cycle" and he lived through that, he lived through ick, and some other disgusting disease!
they're amazing!
also....i always thought barbs were slightly aggressive, maybe it's just a few species but i would look into that..
bettas are gorgeous, and same with neon tetras!
i'm getting some neon tetras when i get my third tank.
i know this didn't help much! but hope it did a little!!
good luck!!
 
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Phonemonkey

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Actually its funny you mentioned albino corys, they have a bunch of them at the petsmart by my work, and they look really really active. And I mean like zooming around active. I thought they looked interesting, might have to consider one, although I thought they liked to be in groups, which might be hard to do in my 12 gallon tank depending on what else I get.

On the pH test front, I'm really quite baffled at this point. I took some water samples home from work and re-ran the tests. This is what I get now:

Tap Water - Normal pH Test: ~7.0
Tap Water - High pH Test: ~7.4 (hard to say, its just barely darker than the 7.4 swatch on the color strip :-\)
Water Cooler Water - Normal pH Test: ~6.4

For contrast, I tested my tap water at home, its off the normal pH charts.

one word... help ???
 
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Phonemonkey

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Regarding corys, I've been doing some more research, apparently they are quite social and many places reccomend keeping them in a school of six or more. Thus at least a 30 gallon tank is reccomended.
 

Tamara

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Phonemonkey said:
Regarding corys, I've been doing some more research, apparently they are quite social and many places reccomend keeping them in a school of six or more. Thus at least a 30 gallon tank is reccomended. 
well i got one (they discontinued them when i found out they like groups)
but he loves playing with my other fish!
and all the fish imitate him pecking at the ground (probably looking for food..but still)
i definetly think that mine is great on it's own, but they're probably better off in groups..
 

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Isabella said:
Phonemonkey said:
I went by this morning to look at gravels/plants, and saw that many of their Bettas (kept, of course, in tiny little cups in a huge stack) were dead or nearly dead. Seeing a once beautiful Betta, lying at the bottom of its tiny little cell, skinnier than any Betta I've ever seen, the only motion being an occasional movement of the gills...
I don't even want to talk about it anymore :'(. It's happening nearly EVERYWHERE you go. I can tell the same about all the local fish stores that I've been to. Now, I don't even go to see Bettas anymore when I am at any of these stores. I can't look at it anymore :'(.
My LFS does not keep bettas in cups! Yay! They put the bettas in the tanks that they will be ok in, (like not the pirahnas, oscars....lol) one per tank, and if they run out of tanks they have the others in nice big vases with some gravel and an ornament. I'm not saying a filter-less vase is a good place to keep a betta but hey, it's wayyyyy better than a tiny cup with no oxygen and no food!
The bad thing about my lfs is that they have dyed fish sometimes
 

Isabella

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Phonemonkey, now I am getting confused about your water too. I know that Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit has tests for: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, normal pH, and high range pH. I personally never really use the high range pH test. I'm not sure if it's absolutely necessary for a freshwater tank with most common freshwater fish. I think it's really for freshwater tanks with fish that like a high pH (such as African Rift cichlids). There are normally 3 pH test types: low range (a.k.a. normal range), high range, and marine pH. Normal/low range pH test is from around 5.0 to 7.5 and it is for regular freshwater tanks that have water around neutral (neutral is 7.0). High range pH is from around 6.5 to 8.5 and it's also for freshwater tanks but for those with harder water and with fish that like quite high pH. I think the reason this test exists is because on a normal pH test color chart, you only have a pH measurement up to 7.5, and hardwater species have a much higher pH. That's why they need another test with a higher range of pH. The third pH test is with marine range which is from around 7.8 to 8.6 in pH, which is exclusively for saltwater aquariums.

Now, as I've said before, I never measure my water for a high range pH as all my fish don't need (and don't have) a pH this high, so I can't really tell you what its relationship to the normal pH should be. But it makes sense to me that if the normal pH is at its maximum value (on its color chart), then the high range pH should be at its lowest value (on its color chart). Now, suppose your normal pH color chart is from 5.0 to 7.5 and your high range pH color chart is from 7.5 to 8.5 (this is just an example). If, in this situation, your normal pH is - say - 7.0, and then you measure the same water for high range pH BUT the high range test is only from 7.5 to 8.5, then the high range pH test will probably show its lowest value, which is 7.5. And this way, on 2 tests you'll have 2 different results.

Now, it's all really confusing. If I were you, I'd just measure a NORMAL pH of the water that you'll be putting in your tank and using for water changes (I presume it will be your tap water). If the NORMAL pH test shows a number that is not the highest value on this test's color chart, then that means the water is not as high in pH as to make it necessary for it to be measured for the high range pH. And this means the water is not too hard for most freshwater fish. And that means ... you can have the gouramis and cherry barbs.

Now, just to be completely sure, using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals tests, please post once again your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and NORMAL pH readins of your tap water. If you can, please test the water for the above compounds BEFORE and AFTER dechlorinating it. I hope this will finally solve the entire problem. If you need more assistance on various pH ranges and a more detailed explanation on water chemistry, you'll have to ask someone more knowledgeable about it.

P.S. When you test your water, follow exactly the instructions on the labels.
 
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Phonemonkey

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My soon-to-be "coworkers" ;D

39.jpg
 
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