Easiest, Hardiest Carpeting Plants?

Fahn

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Tired of my dwarf sag. Constantly melts despite good lighting, injected CO2, root tabs, and liquid and dry fertilizers. I pull out melted, pale, sickly leaves every day and it is starting to get old. The carpet constantly sends out new runners but new growth is translucent and quickly melts or stats stunted. Most of the dwarf sag never gets longer than 2-3 inches and this is a plant that should grow to 12.

It is doing just fine in my low tech aquarium where it gets low light, no CO2, no fertilizers, only root tabs.

So, I want to replace it. All it is doing is looking ugly and adding unwanted nitrates and organics to the water... the algae is loving it. What is the hardiest, easiest carpeting plant to grow? Speed of growth doesn't matter, I'm just wanting a healthier, nicer looking tank. Right now my eye is on Marsilea minuta or Marsilea quadrifolia... conversely I might try HC Cuba again.
 

-Mak-

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Well if you have all that going, you can probably grow any high tech carpet. Except dwarf sag, it seems. Personally I like monte carlo, it is supposedly easier than HC and glosso.
 
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Fahn

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Well if you have all that going, you can probably grow any high tech carpet. Except dwarf sag, it seems. Personally I like monte carlo, it is supposedly easier than HC and glosso.
I used to have a nice HC carpet, but had to tear it out. Got so infested with algae from EI dosing a low plantload that it couldn't be saved.
 

AlyeskaGirl

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The pale new growth is micro deficiency.

If i don't dose enough micros in the water column in my high tech tank my sags new growth is pale and slowly goes translucent. They wont grow much either.
 
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Fahn

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The pale new growth is micro deficiency.

If i don't dose enough micros in the water column in my high tech tank my sags new growth is pale and slowly goes translucent. They wont grow much either.
But I dose micros and use root tabs.

Also the melt seems localized... once one starts melting others around it start.
 
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Fahn

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The pale new growth is micro deficiency.

If i don't dose enough micros in the water column in my high tech tank my sags new growth is pale and slowly goes translucent. They wont grow much either.
Sorry to double quote, but how do you dose micros and what do you use?
 
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Fahn

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I use dry fertilizers which are the ferts used for the EI Dosing so the micro fert is CSM+B. But i dont follow the EI and do my own modified dosing and i dose dry.
Is Seachem Trace a comprehensive micro/trace supplement or should I switch over to CSM+B?
 

Jocelyn Adelman

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I would switch to dry, or at the very least nilocg aquatics has a liquid macro/micro Ei based. Two dirrerent bottles so you can dose separately, super convenient pump bottle. (No more measuring part of seachem caps!) Also they have an all in one called thrive, similar to flourish, but a better balance of NPK.
The dry you can also get from nilo, or green leaf aquariums.
 
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Fahn

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I would switch to dry, or at the very least nilocg aquatics has a liquid macro/micro Ei based. Two dirrerent bottles so you can dose separately, super convenient pump bottle. (No more measuring part of seachem caps!) Also they have an all in one called thrive, similar to flourish, but a better balance of NPK.
The dry you can also get from nilo, or green leaf aquariums.
I dose KH²PO⁴, Seachem Iron and Seachem Flourish. I no longer dose KNO³ because even dosing per instructions with weekly water changes I kept getting dangerous nitrate levels.
 

AlyeskaGirl

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Is Seachem Trace a comprehensive micro/trace supplement or should I switch over to CSM+B?
Yes, it is but Seachem ferts are 80% water based; more water then ferts. Which is best to use with low light setups where dosing can be 1x week. With higher light, injecting co2 and good plant biomass dosing needs to be 3x week and most likely increased as well. That can get costly.

The higher the light, the faster plants grow and demand more ferts and co2.

46 bowfront, Finnex Ray2, pressurized CO2 and double canister filtration at a combined 809gph.
You have a good size tank and switching to dry will be much more cheaper then the liquid.
 
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Fahn

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Yes, it is but Seachem ferts are 80% water based; more water then ferts. Which is best to use with low light setups where dosing can be 1x week. With higher light, injecting co2 and good plant biomass dosing needs to be 3x week and most likely increased as well. That can get costly.

The higher the light, the faster plants grow and demand more ferts and co2.



You have a good size tank and switching to dry will be much more cheaper then the liquid.
Alright, thanks. Is CSM+B an alternative to Seachem Iron?

My only concern is I have Amano shrimp and I'm afraid regular dosing and high CO2 will kill them. I just got them today but already lost 2 (1 DOA, another died shortly after acclimating).
 
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