Dual Filter Setup

  1. Bruno_4 Initiate Member

    I have a 80 gallon tank which I aquired with a older Eheim 2217 canister. I am very happy with it so far - runs quiet and has good flow. I have been reading about flow rates and filtration. It sounds like I might be a little under filtered for a tank this size, so I am thinking of adding a second canister most likely another 2217.

    A couple questions:
    - Is it a good idea to add a second filter and if so would another 2217 be a good choice?
    - What is the best way to set up the intake/outflows in a dual filter setup? Should the outflows be on the back aimed forward? Or at opposite ends aimed inward, toward each other?

    Right now I have the intake near the bottom about 3 inches in from the back right corner; and the outflow is on the left end spraying accross the tank positioned a couple inches under the surface aimed slightly up as to cause a ripple effect at the surface. I have fake plants and decorations now but would like to move towards a planted tank sometime in the future.

    I appreciate any experience/wisdom you have to share. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. can haz catfishies? Member Member

    The way I tend to run mine is to have inlet and outlet in the same corner, outlet low down and inlet near the top so that I circulate the full tank, if I added a second set up I would probably run them side by side but the second inlet aimed diagonal across the tank to create more flow around the tank if space was an issue I would put it at the other end set up to mirror the first filter and cause a little cross flow
     

  3. ryanr Moderator Moderator Member

    Here's a thread I wrote sometime ago about Eheim Classics: https://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/...ters-guide-setup-maintanence-tips-tricks.html

    Whether to add another filter or not is up to you. If your parameters are stable at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and some nitrates, I would say you have adequate filtration.

    That said - the 2217 gives you about 3.3x turnover per hour, I generally strive for 6-8x with a canister.

    If you're having trouble with water clarity (i.e. colouration due to tannins, or not crystal clear), another filter can give you the ability to add more carbon/polishing pads etc.
     
  4. Jaysee Fishlore Legend Member

    Cowboy, I think you got your inlets and outlets mixed up ;)

    I run 2 canisters on all of my larger tanks. I have one in each corner. The spraybar of the one is mounted on the side glass, with the intake in the corner. This pushes the water across the front. Then the second is positioned in the other corner. The intake is in the corner and the spraybar is mounted vertically next to it, so that it pushes the water along the back of the tank, towards the first filters intake. This creates a circular flow within the tank. In my experience this is the optimal setup for both me and the fish.
     
  5. Lupinus Member Member

    Short of pushing the fish around with to much current, more filtration is always better and will allow for a higher level of stocking.
     
  6. Jaysee Fishlore Legend Member

    More is better to a point. Filtration and current are two different things - filtration is volume of media and current is GPH. The size of the bacteria colony is directly related to the amount of food available. Turning the water over faster means a lower concentration of food in the water. A lower turnover rate means a higher concentration of food. The reason HOBs need a higher turnover is because the media can't support as large of a colony, so the concentration has to be low. Canisters can have a lower turnover because they can process a larger concentration of ammonia in one pass due to the extra media they hold.

    Adding media adds to the filter's bioload capacity by raising the concentration of ammonia that can be processed by housing a larger bacteria colony. A higher GPH adds to the filters bioload capacity by lowering the concentration, so that more can be done with less. Almost always, volume of media and GPH are simultaneously increased, but there's a point where the GPH will starve the bacteria colony, essentially winding up with a large bioload tank with a small bioload bacteria colony.
     
  7. Squirtle =) Member Member

    Well said! also with classics you have little water not coming in contact with the media they are built very well! I run 1 eheim 2217 on a 180G with 4 oscars, 1 FH, 1 red terror, 1 Jag and 6 SDS they are not full grown and the filter will be changed for a sump soon, they are sitting at around 6-7 inchs per a fish so not overly small + they are messy the eheim 2217 handles the tank fine, I do 2x 30% water changes weekly which also helps but there has been times where it went 2-3 weeks and everything stayed in a safe zone. depending on the fish and water changes I would say you could get away with the 2217 the 0 bypass with lower flow really helps bio wise, you could always add a 2213-2215 if you wanted for mech - chemical.
     
  8. pirahnah3 Fishlore VIP Member

    What I have done in tanks where the canister is just not quite enough is to get an HOB for it, the other reason I tend to use this method is I keep all the same manufacturer HOBs on my tanks, meaning at any given time I can move media around to either new tanks or if one starts to crash. Usually I steal the pad from my 75 first as that one has a canister and 2 HOBs on it lol. As long as the fish are not getting blown around over filtration is NEVER a bad thing.
     
  9. Reefdweller Well Known Member Member

    I want my water to be crystal clear and I am a tad OCD but my tank just is not clear enough for me. I have a 75 with a wet/dry underneath. I just hate the crappy little "sock" for the carbon that goes along with these wet/dry filters. Its hard for me to believe that its the most adequate way to operate this filter. I even purchased a bigger "sock" so I could add more carbon but I cant tell a difference. I have thought about getting a hang on the back deal as a secondary but I wanted to get away from the tank looking busy with hoses, inlets, outlets, heaters hanging around blah blah hence why I got the wet/dry from the start. I am stumped on what I should do... I have used the more finer pad media and it helps but its just not the crystal clear look I see in other tanks. I am sorry to butt in on the other guys post (lol) but I am in the same boat in many ways with wondering if I indeed have enough filteration... Do they make a pad with carbon built into the pad for wet/dry filters?

    :confused:
     
  10. Squirtle =) Member Member

    :S You would want some purigen and a UV + more mech if your after crystal clear, Carbon is only good for removing chemicals lol. Wet and drys are the best imho just a pain to setup right.