Drip Acclimating Plants?!

Fahn

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Has anybody ever heard of drip acclimating plants? I know some plants like crypts are notorious for melting when added to new tanks, so I was wondering if a slow acclimation would prevent die-back.
 

AllenDahl

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I usually just throw my plants in and they don't have any problems (including crypts) but that may be because I don't add much to my water. Flourish Excel can melt plants, so can an abundance of one thing and not enough of another. Do you have any live plants in your tank already?
 
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Fahn

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I have (ratty, melting) dwarf sag, water wisteria, hornwort, cyperus helferi, anacharis, bacopa m., frogbit, and duckweed.

Tired of plants growing out of control and hogging nutrients from dwarf sag, so I'm getting slower growing plants like c. retrospiralis, monosolenium tenerum (pellia), and Isoetes lacustris (octopus plant). Might add some Java moss as well.

I think the reason my dwarf sag does poorly, despite EI dosing, high light and CO2, is it is outcompeted by "weeds". Should I be culling new runners?
 

TexasDomer

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I'm not sure it would prevent melt, as I've rescaped my tanks and had some crypts melt a little from that. They just don't like being disturbed.
 
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Fahn

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I'm not sure it would prevent melt, as I've rescaped my tanks and had some crypts melt a little from that. They just don't like being disturbed.
The crypts won't arrive until later this week, ordered from aquariumplants.com on Saturday. I pulled out almost all of my hornort and anacharis, as I was sick of it choking up the surface and trapping duckweed and debris. I also had a terrible outbreak of hair algae for some reason and almost all of my hornwort was infested with what looked like brown cotton candy. They were also the only plants in the tank covered in diatoms, which I attribute to my otos not being able to get a grip on the bristle-like leaves. The hair algae is also in the roots of my frogbit and duckweed so I'm going to have to throw quite a bit away. I think my issue was inconsistent lighting and CO2; my CO2 is now over 30ppm, an both CO2 and lighting are on timers for 6 hours per day. I partial EI dose, in that I only dose 4 days a week and not 6. I do not feel I have the plant mass to safely dose 6 days a week without a nitrate spike.

My main issue is that I am aware of "crypt melt" and want to minimize the risk as much as possible. This will be the 3rd time I've rescaped the tank since last November, as everything seems to end in failure (HC carpet was a bust, and current plants are ugly, wildly aquatic weeds), so I really want a beautiful, well-scaped tank.
 

TexasDomer

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I think crypt melt is pretty unavoidable, but I've had them bounce back very quickly. You'll have a pretty tank shortly!
 

NavigatorBlack

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I don't even drip acclimate fish - certainly not plants.
My only major crypt melt was in an ice storm - I lost heating, then close to 200 plants in freezing water. I left the roots in, and they rebounded a year later - I still have Crypts from that lot 19 years later. I transplant them a lot - I think shipping stress bears a lot of the blame for melts.
I bought a second type years after, and they transplanted cleanly. But it didn't involve longer travel. That could just be luck though.
 
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Fahn

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Looking throughout my entire tank, just pruning and cleaning up, there are lots of issues...

Water wisteria has holes in leaves and curled edges. C. Helferi has holes and what appears to be "rust" on the leaves. Dwarf sag is practically white on some new growth and leaves are turning transparent and melting. Bacopa M. is getting pale new growth, and even the frogbit gets holes in the pads. Out of the 12+ C. Helferi I have, one was worth saving, and even it's best looking leaves aren't in good shape.

I don't understand how there can be THIS many deficiencies when I dose, use root tabs, and inject CO2. Am I missing something? My pH is low at around 6 with injected CO2, but surely this wouldn't cause the multitude of symptoms I see.

I'm starting to think I just don't have a green thumb...
 

BeanFish

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Maybe you meant drip acclimating corals?
Root tabs are good, but I dont think they have both macros and micronutrients do they? Have you tried using KNO3 and other dry ferts together with the root tabs? Maybe dosing some micronutrients would help?
Anyways, I dont own crypts but everywhere I have red/heard says that they will just melt for a while and then go back on their feet.
 
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Fahn

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Maybe you meant drip acclimating corals?
Root tabs are good, but I dont think they have both macros and micronutrients do they? Have you tried using KNO3 and other dry ferts together with the root tabs? Maybe dosing some micronutrients would help?
Anyways, I dont own crypts but everywhere I have red/heard says that they will just melt for a while and then go back on their feet.
I EI dose 4 days a week with KNO3, KH2PO4, and Seachem Flourish Trace. I was also dosing Seachem Iron twice a week but heard that it can exacerbate black brush and staghorn algae...
 

-Mak-

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I'm pretty sure it takes days and weeks for living things to adapt to new water conditions, including fish. Drip acclimation won't really do much.
 

ghostlybosun

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The crypts won't arrive until later this week, ordered from aquariumplants.com on Saturday. I pulled out almost all of my hornort and anacharis, as I was sick of it choking up the surface and trapping duckweed and debris. I also had a terrible outbreak of hair algae for some reason and almost all of my hornwort was infested with what looked like brown cotton candy. They were also the only plants in the tank covered in diatoms, which I attribute to my otos not being able to get a grip on the bristle-like leaves. The hair algae is also in the roots of my frogbit and duckweed so I'm going to have to throw quite a bit away. I think my issue was inconsistent lighting and CO2; my CO2 is now over 30ppm, an both CO2 and lighting are on timers for 6 hours per day. I partial EI dose, in that I only dose 4 days a week and not 6. I do not feel I have the plant mass to safely dose 6 days a week without a nitrate spike.

My main issue is that I am aware of "crypt melt" and want to minimize the risk as much as possible. This will be the 3rd time I've rescaped the tank since last November, as everything seems to end in failure (HC carpet was a bust, and current plants are ugly, wildly aquatic weeds), so I really want a beautiful, well-scaped tank.
Do you know what your current PAR is? Your growth could be outcompeting your nutrients and maybe even your CO2 (hopefully not)
I am high tech as well, currently I use a fluval fresh and plant 2.0 and a finnex planted plus on my 75g with injected CO2 at about 30ppm (bps are a stream or uncountable) I dose 3/4tbs kno3 1/4tbs k2so4 and 1/4tbs csm+b a day and if I miss even one day I get an algae explosion.
I don't know if you will get crypt melt in a properly run high tech tank, I wouldn't say mine is properly run yet, but I don't get crypt melt with any crypt that I have tried. I have gotten two packs of the gel stuff common species from petsmart and I rescued two common species that were dying from my lfs. After that success I bought an uncommon species from liquidcreations (crytpocoryne nurri "Rosen maiden") again, no melt.
I guess what I am saying is, don't be afraid to up the ferts to get everything in line. Be slow about it, watch your fish, test your levels and everything should be fine.
 
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Fahn

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Do you know what your current PAR is? Your growth could be outcompeting your nutrients and maybe even your CO2 (hopefully not)
I am high tech as well, currently I use a fluval fresh and plant 2.0 and a finnex planted plus on my 75g with injected CO2 at about 30ppm (bps are a stream or uncountable) I dose 3/4tbs kno3 1/4tbs k2so4 and 1/4tbs csm+b a day and if I miss even one day I get an algae explosion.
I don't know if you will get crypt melt in a properly run high tech tank, I wouldn't say mine is properly run yet, but I don't get crypt melt with any crypt that I have tried. I have gotten two packs of the gel stuff common species from petsmart and I rescued two common species that were dying from my lfs. After that success I bought an uncommon species from liquidcreations (crytpocoryne nurri "Rosen maiden") again, no melt.
I guess what I am saying is, don't be afraid to up the ferts to get everything in line. Be slow about it, watch your fish, test your levels and everything should be fine.
Can't remember my PAR at the substrate depth (about 17" from light source), but I used to have an HC carpet (ripped it out due to algae taking over, was overdosing ferts), so my lighting is good enough for HC Cuba! I do have a ton of duckweed and frogbit so maybe culling off about half to three-quarters is in order.

I have only been dosing 4 days a week instead of 6 because I have been removing plants like crazy, so I didn't want too many nitrates in the tank. After I replant this week I'm going back to 6 days a week with Iron once a week. I'm hoping having some slower growers in the tank means that nutrients aren't sucked up so quickly. My dwarf sag propagates very fast under my tank conditions (not healthy growth, but fast growth), but I think having nutrient sponges like hornwort and frogbit prevent it from getting what it needs. I'm hoping my remaining C. Helferi will bounce back as well; I love the way that plant looks and almost all of mine was reduced to tattered, melted bunches of lawn clippings with roots above the substrate, which leads me to believe they were not getting enough to "eat".

Fingers crossed that having fewer fast growing stem plants in the tank will balance out the distribution of nutrients. I can see my dwarf sag pearl so I know conditions SHOULD be good, but they just aren't.
 
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