Documentation of new 3 gallon betta tank

Hello everyone
I’m creating this thread to help me remember the process I am using in order to successfully cycle and decorate my 3 gallon tank that I got for christmas
Something to know:
-This is approximately my 5th time trying to cycle this tank. The second time I tried cycling i actually managed to get it completely cycled in a week due to the addition of media and decor already with bacteria in my established aquarium, then the tank leaked. My dad has since fixed it with aquarium-safe silicone and it’s been stable.
-It’s the most trouble i’ve ever had with cycling, due to the extremely low flow coming from the filter because the tank was very cheap, and the mistakes i’ve made along the way.
-This time, i’m doing the “instant cycling”method. I’m not sure how it’s taken this long for me to discover that this is possible as long as you already have an established aquarium, which i do.

Currently:
- my 3 gallon is empty and waiting. All the decor and filter media for the little tank, excluding the substrate, has been sitting in my 50 gallon growing bacteria for a week. It will take at least 4 weeks before I can move this bacteria-rich decor into the little tank in order for it to instantly cycle.
-i will be adding the water from my established tank into the 3 gallon as well, and i’m still deciding whether to use some dechlorinated tap water (it contains approx 1ppm of ammonia, which would help in cycling. typically, i mineralize and add RO water to my tanks because i don’t want to add additional ammonia.) Since i’m “instant-cycling”, though, i’m wondering whether adding an ammonia source is necessary. The tank still needs to cycle on it’s own, correct? it will just take much faster?

That’s everything i’ve done so far. Crossing my fingers that this time it will work and i will be able to add a betta fish friend in the next 3 -4 weeks.

 

Since i’m “instant-cycling”, though, i’m wondering whether adding an ammonia source is necessary. The tank still needs to cycle on it’s own, correct? it will just take much faster?

Heyo!

Ammonia in and of itself is not needed for an 'instant cycle', but is needed if you want to test that your 'instant cycling' worked.

 

Heyo!

Ammonia in and of itself is not needed for an 'instant cycle', but is needed if you want to test that your 'instant cycling' worked.

Awesome, sounds good. Will do that! Really hoping it will work. I’ve been trying to get this tank going for several months!

 

Awesome, sounds good. Will do that! Really hoping it will work. I’ve been trying to get this tank going for several months!

I reckon it should work just fine. I mean hard to predict how long it'd take to see the media, but really a month should be plenty to establish plenty of beneficial bacteria for an instant cycle. Good luck!

 

Hopefully all will go well this time

When you move the bacteria over to this tank you are going to also have to add an ammonia source. The ammonia in your tap water may be enough to begin with. If you have 1ppm ammonia in your source water and start the tank with fresh tap water you will start out with 1ppm ammonia in the tank. If you've moved enough bacteria it should remove the ammonia fairly fast.

When I instantly cycle a tank I move the seeded media and anything else I plan on moving over from a fully cycled tank and add fish right away. They are the ammonia source. In your case if you use your tap water once fish are in the tank a 25% water change will only raise the ammonia in the tank to .25 The bacteria will take care of that amount easily.

Keep in mind the amount of bacteria you are moving over depends on the bio-load of the tank the bacteria is coming from. As long as the bio-load is lower in the new tank the new tank will instantly cycle. It will still take time to get firmly established so don't do much cleaning for at least a couple of months.

 

Hopefully all will go well this time

When you move the bacteria over to this tank you are going to also have to add an ammonia source. The ammonia in your tap water may be enough to begin with. If you have 1ppm ammonia in your source water and start the tank with fresh tap water you will start out with 1ppm ammonia in the tank. If you've moved enough bacteria it should remove the ammonia fairly fast.

When I instantly cycle a tank I move the seeded media and anything else I plan on moving over from a fully cycled tank and add fish right away. They are the ammonia source. In your case if you use your tap water once fish are in the tank a 25% water change will only raise the ammonia in the tank to .25 The bacteria will take care of that amount easily.

Keep in mind the amount of bacteria you are moving over depends on the bio-load of the tank the bacteria is coming from. As long as the bio-load is lower in the new tank the new tank will instantly cycle. It will still take time to get firmly established so don't do much cleaning for at least a couple of months.

This is some great information. Just to be clear, you’re saying that if i start off with established tank water, add fish, then do a 25% water change putting in tap water, that should be enough ammonia for the bacteria to deal with?
I’m sure the bio load in my established 50 gallon will be much more than in the new tank. it’s been running for 6 months with fish in I also will make sure to put in some lava rock i use as decor in the 50 gallon when starting up the new tank for that extra amount of bacteria.
And by no cleaning you mean not vacuuming my substrate correct? just simply exchanging out water?

 

This is some great information. Just to be clear, you’re saying that if i start off with established tank water, add fish, then do a 25% water change putting in tap water, that should be enough ammonia for the bacteria to deal with?
I’m sure the bio load in my established 50 gallon will be much more than in the new tank. it’s been running for 6 months with fish in I also will make sure to put in some lava rock i use as decor in the 50 gallon when starting up the new tank for that extra amount of bacteria.
And by no cleaning you mean not vacuuming my substrate correct? just simply exchanging out water?

There is no need to start the tank with established tank water. There is little to no bacteria in the water so moving any over to this tank isn't going to help. The strongest colony of bacteria is going to be on the filter media but it is growing on all the surfaces in the tank.

I would fill the tank up with water from the tap. Be sure to add your water conditioner to remove chlorine. Chlorine will kill your bacteria. By doing this you will find out if all the bacteria you have moved over is going to remove the ammonia present in your tap water. If it does then go ahead and put your fish in the tank. I am able to immediately add fish but I have no ammonia in my tap water.

I am sorry. I may not have written it clear enough. If you choose to use your tap water in the tank I will recommend 25% weekly water changes. I normally recommed changing out 50% each week but you have 1ppm ammonia in your tap water. A 50% water change would raise the ammonia in the tank up to .5ppm. A 25% water change will only raise it up to .25ppm. that is a safer level for the fish in the tank. Your bacteria should clear out that low amount quickly.

Correct. Don't vacuum the gravel. Only clean the media if absolutely necessary. Don't clean all the glass at the same time. Give the bacteria time to get firmly established before doing any unnecessary cleaning.

 

There is no need to start the tank with established tank water. There is little to no bacteria in the water so moving any over to this tank isn't going to help. The strongest colony of bacteria is going to be on the filter media but it is growing on all the surfaces in the tank.

I would fill the tank up with water from the tap. Be sure to add your water conditioner to remove chlorine. Chlorine will kill your bacteria. By doing this you will find out if all the bacteria you have moved over is going to remove the ammonia present in your tap water. If it does then go ahead and put your fish in the tank. I am able to immediately add fish but I have no ammonia in my tap water.

I am sorry. I may not have written it clear enough. If you choose to use your tap water in the tank I will recommend 25% weekly water changes. I normally recommed changing out 50% each week but you have 1ppm ammonia in your tap water. A 50% water change would raise the ammonia in the tank up to .5ppm. A 25% water change will only raise it up to .25ppm. that is a safer level for the fish in the tank. Your bacteria should clear out that low amount quickly.

Correct. Don't vacuum the gravel. Only clean the media if absolutely necessary. Don't clean all the glass at the same time. Give the bacteria time to get firmly established before doing any unnecessary cleaning.

Awesome, will do. Eventually i will use my RO water for water changes, but while the tank establishes i’ll will use dechlorinated tap water exclusively. thanks for all your help!

Will update this page when i’m on the next steps. For now, we wait.

 

I’m back! It has finally been about 4 weeks. Just filled and dechlorinated my milk jugs, and i’m preparing to transfer all of my decor and filter media in the next couple days. I’m very excited and I’m hoping I can get my betta very soon

As I wait these last few days I have a few questions just out of curiosity:

This cheap 3 gallon tank I am using has a filter with EXTREMELY low flow, creating very little water movement. The last time I tried cycling this tank i ended up getting a ton of mulm and detritus worms. Does anyone have any tips on avoiding this? the filter does not have any speed adjustments unfortunately, because as I said it was relatively cheap. I do plan on putting plants in this tank as soon as i get my betta, and I also might put a snail in there. Will these help?

 

I am not sure where all the mulm would have come from unless you were adding fish food to help cycle the tank. That was the last time though. We are starting from fresh this time.

Since this is a small tank and a betta will be its main occupant you don't need a great deal of water movement. Detritus worms often come along with a new tank for some odd reason. Basically just let them run their course should they show up again. Don't over feed your little guy and you shouldn't have an issue with either worms or an abundance of mulm.

The plants should help but they are not going to help prevent worms or a build up of mulm. A gravel vac should take care of that for you. Depending on the temperament of the betta it may or may not allow a tank mate even if it is just a snail. If you put one in there be prepared to move it if the betta tries to kill it.

Once you get all your seeded media and other items you have been seeding moved over to this tank you are going to want to feed the bacteria. The ammonia in your tap water should feed it for a day or so but after that it needs more food. I will recommend you either add your Betta or move another fish over to this tank until you do get your betta.

 

everything has been added, though i somehow lost the plug-in connector for the light lol
Will test the water tomorrow to make sure the tank has cycled successfully. I also plan on getting my betta and all my plants tomorrow! Crossing fingers.

 

Did my water test this morning…
First off, i realized that my record of my tap water test says it actually has 0.5ppm ammonia, not 1ppm. That was my mistake.
Second off, unfortunately, nothing has changed. There’s no Nitrate or Nitrite but ammonia shows it’s still at 0.5.
I understand that the ammonia test also tests ammonium, which is harmless to fish, but also very confusing. Maybe my tap water contains ammonium but not ammonia?
Just making guesses as I’m positive I went through this process very accurately and now i’m scratching my head :/
Was really looking forward to getting my fish today
The ph in my tap water is also on the high end at about 8.0, but I don’t think it’s an issue as i know many people on this forum keep their aquariums at this pH without any problems

 

I would give it at least one more day before thinking something isn't working. As long as the seeded media you added to this tank had been in the cycled tank at least a month there should be enough bacteria on it to pull the ammonia out of the tap water. If after 2 or 3 days it doesn't then I have to thing you may be getting a false positive. Are you using the same tests on the cycled tank? Are you seeing any ammonia in there?

BTW: I wouldn't expect to see nitrites at all and wouldn't expect to see nitrates any sooner than a week from the time you moved the media over.

 

I added all my decor, the sponge and the ceramic rings to my established aquarium a month ago. Plus, i dropped in a few lava rocks that were in my established aquarium for 6 months. The only thing i didn’t have in there was the gravel.
I’m using the API master test kit on both tanks. In my established aquarium it shows no ammonia (although sometimes i catch it at .25 (?) couldn’t help but think that’s a lighting issue because the colours are so similar. It’s hard to tell.) , but nitrates are around 40 because it is due for a water change
I will wait a few more days to see if that ammonia in the small tank disappears; Will update then. thanks mattgirl for all the helpful advice!

 

Day 2 Update: noticing a very thin layer of oil on the surface
Ammonia looks the same, may be a tad lighter green. it’s now hard to tell if it’s .25 or .5

 

Day 2 Update: noticing a very thin layer of oil on the surface
Ammonia looks the same, may be a tad lighter green. it’s now hard to tell if it’s .25 or .5

If you are getting a film on top of the water you may need to add more surface agitation. It looks like this tank has a built in filter so I don't know how you are going to go about accomplishing the surface movement. Maybe run and airstone? If your filter is working as well as it should and by moving all the seeded media over to this tank it surprises me to find it taking this long to remove the ammonia.

Check and make sure the filter is working as well as it is supposed to. Make sure the inlet for water isn't being blocked with too much media. If the water can't be pulled through the filter it won't be able to pull the ammonia laden water through it.

 

The filter has always run like this, very very slow water movement that there really isn’t a current produced. I definitely got ripped off but i spent 50$ on this tank and there’s no way for me to return it Trying to make it work as best as I can
Had this exact same issue with the film the last time
I took out that green media and just put it in the tank to see if the filter would push water faster, and it seems like it’s a little quicker but still doesn’t create water movement.
If you look at the picture i took of the filter, the water intake is on the left side and it runs to the right side with the ceramic media and then out into the tank again. Theres a hole in the wall between the left square and the right square which allows the water to pass through.
I think i’m gonna try running the filter without the green sponge thing and see if i can see better results on my tests, because that could easily have been blocking the water flow more and it could be why it’s taking so long for my ammonia to disappear.
PS: I don’t currently own an airstone but i’ll go out and buy one since that seems like the only option to get rid of the oil film

 

The filter has always run like this, very very slow water movement that there really isn’t a current produced. I definitely got ripped off but i spent 50$ on this tank and there’s no way for me to return it Trying to make it work as best as I can
Had this exact same issue with the film the last time
I took out that green media and just put it in the tank to see if the filter would push water faster, and it seems like it’s a little quicker but still doesn’t create water movement.
If you look at the picture i took of the filter, the water intake is on the left side and it runs to the right side with the ceramic media and then out into the tank again. Theres a hole in the wall between the left square and the right square which allows the water to pass through.
I think i’m gonna try running the filter without the green sponge thing and see if i can see better results on my tests, because that could easily have been blocking the water flow more and it could be why it’s taking so long for my ammonia to disappear.
PS: I don’t currently own an airstone but i’ll go out and buy one since that seems like the only option to get rid of the oil film

It did look to me like there might be a bit too much media in the filter area and it would block some of the flow. I would make sure there is nothing blocking the area where the water is pulled in and if the media is looser in the filter I suspect the water will flow faster. If you can get it to do that an airstone may not be needed. Check the impeller in the filter to make sure it isn't in any kind of bind. If it is it can slow down the flow.

I don't actually run airstones in my tanks. I figure if I am going to be running air to my tank I may as well have it hooked up to a sponge filter. Sponge filters do double duty. The bubbles break the surface of the water and lots of bacteria grows on the sponge. If you can get the filter working better you may not need either airstone of sponge filter though.

 

Update Day 3: Ammonia is still present at .25ppm.
I wish i could post videos on here because i believe what is keeping the water from flowing out fast from the filter is the wall between the sponge and the ceramic media.
If you can tell in the picture, the water movement in the first left square is actually quite a lot, but since the water “drains” underneath that middle wall into the square with the ceramic media, the flow is greatly reduced to almost nothing. It then flows out of the tank from that square.
The filter was horribly designed, i’m honestly not sure what i should do at this point. Will try not to lose hope as I have successfully cycled this tank once before. not sure what i did differently.

 

It does sound like the design of this filter wasn't thought through very well. It may actually work well as far as growing bacteria but isn't designed to move the water as fast as we would like for it too. In this case I would have to add a sponge filter. It will break the surface of the water and will stop the oily looking surface. It is also another great place for bacteria to grow. The only downside to a sponge filter is they take up space and we have to find a way to keep them from being an eyesore. I hide mine behind plants.

 

I always thought a sponge filter would be too big for a 3 gallon tank, Is it possible to find ones small enough? That would be great if so.
The problem too is that the lid is meant to fit tight over top the built in filter, and only has a few small holes in the back for cords. would a sponge filter be in the way of the lid closing properly?

 

I always thought a sponge filter would be too big for a 3 gallon tank, Is it possible to find ones small enough? That would be great if so.
The problem too is that the lid is meant to fit tight over top the built in filter, and only has a few small holes in the back for cords. would a sponge filter be in the way of the lid closing properly?

Only you can determine if an airline will go through the holes. Instead of an actual sponge filter.I run an airstone inserted into a small pre-filter sponge in my 2.5 gallon snail jar. That is the only filtration I have in this jar and it works well.

Since this tank is so small the low flow may be all it needs. To tell the truth I have never seen this kind of tank in real life. Only in pictures posted here when folks are struggling to make them work efficiently or trying to figure out how to keep their water pets out of the filter area.

If I had struggled with a tank as long as you have been struggling with this particular tank I would have long ago retired it and replaced it with a traditional tank.

 

Right as i am about to give up, of course i test my water and finally everything is at 0. Now i’m wondering if it’s been too long, and the bacteria have since died off.
I also realized that the water surface has ripples from the filter and breaks the oil slick as long as the water isn’t up too high.

I’m wondering though if i should still give up, as i’ve discovered the tiny white worms back in my tank and a small amount of mulm forming once again
Or, should I get my betta and snail?
I have a bottle of bio boost conditioner, which supposedly contains health bacteria for cycling tanks. I’ve heard so many stories of these things being false, being true, and so on. Should i put some of this in the tank just in case? Or would it not do anything?

 

If you had ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria in this tank it should still be there. It takes a long time or something drastic like water changes with chlorine that hasn't had conditioner added to it to kill all the bacteria off. I feel sure you didn't do that.

If you've not been adding ammonia and have just been waiting for the .25 to go to zero then the nitrates wouldn't be rising. The amout of nitrates depends on how much ammonia the tank has processed.

 

If you had ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria in this tank it should still be there. It takes a long time or something drastic like water changes with chlorine that hasn't had conditioner added to it to kill all the bacteria off. I feel sure you didn't do that.

If you've not been adding ammonia and have just been waiting for the .25 to go to zero then the nitrates wouldn't be rising. The amout of nitrates depends on how much ammonia the tank has processed.

I have not added ammonia, I kind of just left the tank as is not expecting anything to change. today i was planning on emptying it out and looking to buy a better tank like you suggested; it’s a good thing I tested the water once more.
Does this mean it’s alright to get a fish and snail? and my plants?
I’m also wondering if you have advice on getting rid of the tiny worms and mulm… would a snail take care of those?

 

Only you can decide if this tank is worth working with. Personally I would have given up on it long before now.

Should you decide to keep it and put a fish and snail in it just keep an eye on the numbers. If it isn't fully cycled you may experience a mini-cycle. If that happens, water changes should protect your water pets. Your Betta may eat the worms. I don't think a snail will help you with the mulm. That needs to be siphoned out during your water changes.

 

Only you can decide if this tank is worth working with. Personally I would have given up on it long before now.

Should you decide to keep it and put a fish and snail in it just keep an eye on the numbers. If it isn't fully cycled you may experience a mini-cycle. If that happens, water changes should protect your water pets. Your Betta may eat the worms. I don't think a snail will help you with the mulm. That needs to be siphoned out during your water changes.

Sounds good. I think i’m going to go through with it for now, i may get a new tank later if i continue getting problems with this one. I would like to see how keeping a fish in this tank goes!
Thank you so much for aiding me in this very treacherous journey. I really appreciate all of your help and advice.

 

Had discovered that my tank was leaking… again But i had no fear this time because I now have experience!
Currently, i’ve saved the water and the decor and the filter media and i’m currently keeping it all in a giant pot (And don’t worry, i threw the entire tank in the garbage)
Today, I ordered a Marine 5 gallon glass aquarium kit off of amazon; it was the cheapest i could find that also had good reviews!
Hoping it makes it through shipping Supposed to be here on Thursday. Then I will finally get the betta i’ve wanted for so painfully long!

 

This is a blessing in disguise. It seems this tank was destined for the trash bin. Hopefully the replacement will get to you intact and you will have no problems with it. By saving all the bacteria you have grown up to this point, cycling the new tank will be a breeze. I too look forward to you getting your longed for Betta.

 

I will be sure to provide pictures of the whole setup! ♥️

 

Tank came in, and of course I was so excited i started decorating immediately
Only thing is I fear i’ve made a dumb mistake. I bought some mopani wood today from my LFS, it is beautiful, but I had already put it in the tank before doing my research and behold: people are saying to boil it and soak it beforehand and of course I didn’t do that
I’ve set the wood up so beautifully I really don’t want to take it out, unless it could provide potential harm to the bacteria or the water. I am aware that it will release tannins, but the tank came with a filter and carbon media, which i heard helps clear the water up
I don’t mind tannins much, as i heard they were beneficial.
I guess the only thing I’m worried about is harmful dust that could’ve been on the wood, I typically wash my gravel before putting it in my tank for this exact reason.
Do you think I’ll be okay keeping the wood in there?
how it looks currently, no live plants just yet
spotting a little bit of debris in the water… probably from me fussing everything around. Filter should get it
I’m loving the tank so far, the filter creates a little more of a current which is good for movement… worried it may be a little strong for a betta
Will play around with the flow control since this filter actually has that option!
The filter this tank came with has brand new cartridges, but i managed to squeeze my saved ceramic media in there. Will not let that bacteria go to waste!

 

Beautiful tank. The other one leaking was a blessing in disguise. I wouldn't be overly worried about the new drift wood. Water changes should keep the tannin's down and you should be able to remove any debris with your siphon.

It is good that you were able to add your ceramic media. It gives you a head start on getting this tank cycled.

 

Beautiful tank. The other one leaking was a blessing in disguise. I wouldn't be overly worried about the new drift wood. Water changes should keep the tannin's down and you should be able to remove any debris with your siphon.

It is good that you were able to add your ceramic media. It gives you a head start on getting this tank cycled.

It’s great, in fact i did a test today and everything indicates the tank is already cycled. Really happy about the wood, it lowered my pH from 8 to 7.2. Other factors could’ve lowered it as well but i know wood is known to reduce pH.
The hunt for plants and the fish will be Saturday

 

It’s great, in fact i did a test today and everything indicates the tank is already cycled. Really happy about the wood, it lowered my pH from 8 to 7.2. Other factors could’ve lowered it as well but i know wood is known to reduce pH.
The hunt for plants and the fish will be Saturday

I have to think something other than just the wood lowered the pH that much. If adding driftwood could lower the pH this much I have to think folks would be shouting it from the rooftops.

Although it already looks good plants are really gonna make this tank shine.

 

I have to think something other than just the wood lowered the pH that much. If adding driftwood could lower the pH this much I have to think folks would be shouting it from the rooftops.

Although it already looks good plants are really gonna make this tank shine.

Hoping the pH stays stable, my tap water has a pH of 8 so hopefully small water changes will keep it from getting lower if that’s what the water is doing. Too early to tell whether the 7.2 pH is set or if it’s continuing to drop, but will be sure to monitor.
I can’t seem to think of any other factors that could lower it, perhaps it is the new filter cartridges. The carbon one clears pollution and odour while the Zeolite/ceramic one absorbs ammonia and reduces stress.

 

I am thinking you have other tanks. Does the pH drop in those tanks or does it hold at the same level as the tap water? If it holds then something in this tank is causing it to drop. I know I've read driftwood can cause it to drop some. Normally not as drastic a drop as what you are seeing though. Maybe a piece this big is causing it. I don't know enough to say for sure one way or another. In any case, I don't see it being a problem.

 

I am thinking you have other tanks. Does the pH drop in those tanks or does it hold at the same level as the tap water? If it holds then something in this tank is causing it to drop. I know I've read driftwood can cause it to drop some. Normally not as drastic a drop as what you are seeing though. Maybe a piece this big is causing it. I don't know enough to say for sure one way or another. In any case, I don't see it being a problem.

Only one other tank, and for that one I use mineralized RO water, the pH is typically around 7.8 in that one and it doesn’t tend to fluctuate much. I’ll just assume it’s that big chunk of wood in a smaller volume of water like you said Still very happy with the very quick cycle and overall turnout of the tank

 

Aaaand there it is. the lovely biofilm. Good thing a nerite snail is on my shopping list!

 

Aaaand there it is. the lovely biofilm. Good thing a nerite snail is on my shopping list!

At least you were expecting it and know it just has to run its course.

 

3 gallons is a bit small…