Difference Between T5 Lights?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Ziabis, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    What is the difference between:

    T5 Fluorescent 6.7K &
    T5 HO bulbs
    for live planted tanks?

    And if there are no differences, then why the different names, because all it does is confuse me.

    I have no clue....
     
  2. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    6.7 is the Kelvin rating - basically, the color of the light. HO is high-output, meaning it's a high-intensity bulb for the wattage it takes. The T5 6.7's are most likely not high-output, whereas the T5 HO simply doesn't list its Kelvin rating number.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    I keep reading that the T5HO are better for live fresh water plants, is this correct?
     




  4. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    HO means your plants would be getting more light. Usually, yes, it is better for plants, but if you don't add fertilizers to support the extra growth the plants will be trying to do, you will end up with algae issues. At a certain point of intensity (though not likely you'll get there with just one bulb) you'll have to start adding CO2, as well.

    A single HO bulb MAY not require fertilizing, depending on the type of plants you have.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    My signature states all my plant types, I also use fertlizer and liquid co2 daily.

    Im afraid if i DIY co2 I will get a massive algae explosion, as per what I have read. With the amount of liquid co2 I use now, I get zero algae.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 4, 2012
  6. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    Great, then. Go HO. Keep in mind it requires a T5 fixture (most likely a T5HO fixture, but I'm not sure if there's a difference)


    The trick is balance. Not enough plants, too much nutrients (such as phosphate), too little nutrients, too much or too little lighting, too much or too little CO2....all can cause problems and trigger an algae eruption.

    EDIT: The Crypt may benefit from some shade if you go HO.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  7. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    Well then that ends this story pretty fast. I cannot afford to get a whole new fixture...
    But thank you....
     
  8. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    It may help if you extend the photoperiod and/or get the light closer to the water's surface.

    I think most of your plants should be OK with the lighting you have. I don't see any in the list that need particularly high light.
     
  9. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    The light is only about well say 2inch from the surface.

    I have noticed quite a bit of growth on all plants... The indica is easy to see growth about 3inch
    the wisteria also has lots of growth the crypt has a brand new shoot and 2 thick stocks, the java is much fuller. So yes I am getting growth not like some of you experts can get but at least I am not killing anything. I still get the odd yellow or bit of rot which I have no clue about. But over all I think its coming along slowly, which is fine.

    I use 10ml of fertilizer and liquid co2 daily with about 8hours of light.
     
  10. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    Ha. I'm no expert. I'm just compiling what I'm learning into my brain-box for when I can afford to take a shot at it XD

    What ferts are you using?

    New growth is always good :)
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    Just off topic slightly, if I were to test my nitrite/nitrate and amonia lvls and found any one of them out of whack, how do I fix them...

    I do weekly water changes with gravel vaccuuming. Other then that I have no clue how to fix any of those parameters?

    Right now I am using Flourish fertilizer and co2 products...

    Please dont be offended, but I find it incredibly difficult to learn about all this with all topics is solely due to when I ask a question I get 5 different answers. And because I find it hard to retain so much info on each topic. It's like each topic as so many parameters.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 4, 2012
  12. Lucy

    Lucy Moderator Moderator Member

    Please answer any questions on the forum.

    Ziabis's questions and the answered provided may help others who have lighting questions.

    Also, since it is still early other members with more lighting experience can weigh in when they sign in.

    :)

    Ziabis you are right!
    In this hobby several answers can be correct. Lots of ifs and buts involved since everyone's set up is different.

    I have moved this to the lighting forum for more exposure.
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    I think your main problem with your fish Lucy, is that you have a giant cat investation in your aquarium. Teehee LOL (avatar) CUTE....
     
  14. Lucy

    Lucy Moderator Moderator Member

    :giggle:
     
  15. Tonia

    Tonia Well Known Member Member

    I suggest to think of it this way, Ziabis, there is no ONE expert, you are asking many different people, who have many opinions, and often different experiences to give you their best opinion on the subject. For myself, I try very hard to make sure that the suggestions or advice I offer are the best suggestions in my personal experience.

    As far as differing or conflicting answers, choose the one that you feel best fits your situation and what you can afford or physically do for your fish, plants and aquarium.

    Often, I will read many different topics started by various members and use them to help round out my decisions.

    I hope that helps you with how to decide what suggestions you wish to use.
    Also, feel free to post how the suggestion worked for you.. many of us have different starting water conditions, and if you find something by putting together a few suggestions, then maybe it will help someone else.
     
  16. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    I would, except I answered everything on lighting that I knew XDD
    The other question was off-topic.
    If you like, I can copy/paste what I said on here :)
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Ziabis

    Ziabis Well Known Member Member

    Here is a new video of my tank from today...
    Oh by the way, around 25 seconds you will hear a loud knock. That's my knee.
    Wow that's really bad quality, sorry...

     
     
  18. Matt B

    Matt B Well Known Member Member

    Eienna has it pretty well covered but I can add that differences between light ouput between the bulbs break down like this: A normal ouput t5 bulb produces the same light output of a comparably sized t8 but at less wattage, being more efficient. The t5ho will produce about twice the light output of the t5 and t8. So, if you had 3 4 foot bulbs: the T5HO would put out about 5,00 lumens at 54w, the T5NO would do about 2900 lumens at 28w and the T8 about 2850 at 32w.

    You have a few moderate to high light plants, I would shoot for moderate lighting and go at a slower pace, as Eienna said, the more light, the more the need for supplemental nutrition and co2. If you kept it to moderate lighting you may be able to get by w/o so much liquide co2 and ferts.

    Not sure if I've shown this to you but this is a great reference: https://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/catsma_97504/112191-reference-hoppys-lighting-chart.html
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  19. Eienna

    Eienna Fishlore VIP Member

    (Moving conversation back into thread)

    @ Matt: Ei wants a T5HO :) My setup could only be described as low-light right now.

    @ Ziabis: ALWAYS watch those parameters. Best to check them weekly, minimum. It is always the first thing to check if problems crop up, as well. As far as carbon cartridges, if you can insert some extra biomedia such as seachem's Matrix (I recommend that one because it's small) or fluval bio-rings, stuff you never take out, that will help maintain the cycle when you must replace the cartridge. You could actually cut a slit in that cartridge, dump the carbon, and put some biomedia in there; carbon has recently been found to be at best unhelpful and at worst harmful to live plants, probably because it will remove nutrients. When you must change the cartridge (not until it's falling apart) dump the carbon from the new cartridge and replace it with the biomedia you had in your old cartridge.

    Do you have tests for pH, GH and KH? I would really recommend getting the API Master liquid test kit if you don't already have it, and buying the add-on for GH and KH (the kit used to come with them but does not anymore.) Different plants like different parameters but in most cases keeping the pH between 6.8 and 7.8 seems to work OK. Dunno about hardness.

    I would add API Leaf Zone to that regime you mentioned. Flourish Comprehensive appears to have holes in at least its potassium levels, something Leaf Zone provides. I use a combo of Flourish Comprehensive and Leaf Zone and my plants are loving it. The occasional yellow or rotting leaf is a part of growth, but if it's common I'd suspect a nutritional deficiency of some kind. Remove the carbon and add Leaf Zone to your regime and then let us know if things perk up :)
     
  20. Matt B

    Matt B Well Known Member Member

    @Eienna- What do you mean ei want t5ho? Estimative index ferts? Also, I agree, leafzone compliments comprehensive well with its iron and potassium.
     




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