Did I Reset My Cycle? And Fin Rot?

ch0507449

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So I have a filter that uses carbon cartridges and as it started to clog up, I was told to cut the carbon out and see if that helps, and it did but I've been doing water tests consistently and the levels remind me of when I first started cycling. (.25-.50 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate) Did removing the carbon out of the filter possibly reset the cycle? (I've also added in bio rings as another media so I can safely remove the cartridges all together.)

My fish has also had fin rot for quite a while. I've tried salt treatments and they didn't improve anything so I stopped, and I've been doing 25% water changes everyday to keep the water at a good condition, but his fin rot is getting worse. I can see it slowly recede towards his body. At first his back fin was just clear around the edges, but now the clear is completely gone and his fins are starting to look almost torn.

I'm really frustrated and upset right now, that I seem to not be doing something or I'm doing something that's wrong and I can't figure out what it is. I don't want to resort to medicine if I don't have to, but I cant find anything that's working at the moment. Is there anything else I should try doing? Should I try increasing how much water I'm changing or should I decrease it?
 

Fishlover1984

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Changing 25% daily sounds like enough to reset the ammonia cycle to me. My personal suggestion would be to reduce your water changes to once a week and use a medication to treat fin rot while keeping the carbon in the filter out until treatment is complete.

I hope this helps, but look forward to others’ suggestions as well. Good luck!!
 

bizaliz3

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Daily water changes should not restart your cycle on an established tank. I would absolutely do daily water changes when dealing with fin rot. I've done it myself and never lost my cycle. I also do daily water changes on fry tanks. No lost cycles.

What else was in the filter when you removed the carbon? and how long had that other stuff been in the filter? I am sure there was beneficial bacteria on the carbon which was removed. But as long as there were other things in there collecting BB, it shouldn't have been a problem.

The most likely cause here was removing a bunch of BB. It could have caused a mini-cycle. So again, what else was in the filter when the carbon was removed?
 
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ch0507449

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bizaliz3 said:
Daily water changes should not restart your cycle on an established tank. I would absolutely do daily water changes when dealing with fin rot. I've done it myself and never lost my cycle. I also do daily water changes on fry tanks. No lost cycles.

What else was in the filter when you removed the carbon? and how long had that other stuff been in the filter? I am sure there was beneficial bacteria on the carbon which was removed. But as long as there were other things in there collecting BB, it shouldn't have been a problem.

The most likely cause here was removing a bunch of BB. It could have caused a mini-cycle. So again, what else was in the filter when the carbon was removed?
No I cut open the cartridge and dumped the carbon out and put the cartridges back in. That's what someone here suggested I do to help the water flow better through the filter. There was nothing but the cartridge until I cut them and then I added bio rings.

I just don't know what to do about the fin rot, I've been doing everything that I've been told but I'm at a complete loss.
 

bizaliz3

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ch0507449 said:
No I cut open the cartridge and dumped the carbon out and put the cartridges back in. That's what someone here suggested I do to help the water flow better through the filter. There was nothing but the cartridge until I cut them and then I added bio rings.

I just don't know what to do about the fin rot, I've been doing everything that I've been told but I'm at a complete loss.
Did the cartridge dry out at all during the process? did you rinse it in tap water by chance?

There is hardly any carbon in those cartridges. So I don't think that would have caused a clog. I only remove the carbon from my cartridges if I plan to medicate. Otherwise a good rub down in a bucket of tank water every couple weeks takes care of the flow. Or it should anyway.

How long had this tank been running?
 
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ch0507449

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bizaliz3 said:
Did the cartridge dry out at all during the process? did you rinse it in tap water by chance?

There is hardly any carbon in those cartridges. So I don't think that would have caused a clog. I only remove the carbon from my cartridges if I plan to medicate. Otherwise a good rub down in a bucket of tank water every couple weeks takes care of the flow. Or it should anyway.

How long had this tank been running?
No, I didn't let it dry out. I rinsed it out in old tank water. It's been running since March 17th.

Rtessy said:
That's the right thing to do for the carbon...
What kind of fish?
It's a betta fish.
 
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ch0507449

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bizaliz3 said:
A small spike in ammonia is understandable after removing some BB. But the zero for nitrates is concerning....
The tank was cycled, I even had diatoms start to appear so I went and bought a nerite snail to help out. We call him the sneaky snail because you never know where hes hiding haha.
 

Rtessy

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Bettas generally don't respond to salt so well, I've heard erythromycin is good for finrot, haven't tried it myself, I did use methylene blue as a dip/bath an it worked really well for body rot.
Do you think the nitrates are just low from all the water changes? Also I'd keep up the water changes, and you could increase them to 50% without doing any harm.
 

Ulu

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bizaliz3 said:
Daily water changes should not restart your cycle on an established tank. I would absolutely do daily water changes when dealing with fin rot. . . .
YES

and.....Forget your cycle and Save the Fish! Those bacteria are free. No one ever cried because a bacteria died.

When I have fish in hospital, sometimes I change their water twice a day, up to 90% as I vacuum the tank.0

It all depends on the situation.

The problem with medication is it is stressful to the fish in some circumstances, because they're already weak enough that they're having trouble dealing with current "ordinary" water conditions, yet folks stick something even more in their water.

Sometines, the only way to save those fish is to forget the meds and give them extraordinarily clean conditions
 

bizaliz3

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If she is going to do even larger water changes on a daily basis, she should really check the tap for ammonia first. Mine has a little over .25ppm ammonia. And even my most established tanks will have trouble catching up extra large daily water changes.

Just a word of caution!
 

Ulu

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I agree 100% and if we're talking about small tanks, the thing to do is get some bins and start aging water, so you don't have to put raw water in the hospital fish.

That way you are not a victim of Highly variable water quality as I myself and other members of this forum seem to have been.

It's much better to test your water as you're adding it to your aging Barrel as opposed to as you're adding to the tank, because it gives you a lot of time to do something about a bad water situation.

It's not something you want to discover when you've done a 90% drain on your tank and your fish is sitting in 2 inches of water.
 

Ulu

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Okay I may have misread that first post I thought it said .25 and .50 ammonia but it says 25 + 50!

Could that 50ppm be coming out of the tap and the OP not notice it?

If my tank gets up to 1 PPM I can smell it.
 
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ch0507449

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Ulu said:
Okay I may have misread that first post I thought it said .25 and .50 ammonia but it says 25 + 50!

Could that 50ppm be coming out of the tap and the OP not notice it?

If my tank gets up to 1 PPM I can smell it.
I apologize I meant .25-.50, it is definitely not up at 25 LOL That would be horrible. I should change that.
 
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