Danios Killing My Rainbows?

ajgravedigger13
  • #1
I'm new here and still learning the ropes of fish keeping. I had 6 Madagascar rainbowfish and 8 giant Danios with 3 pearl danios. I was told they would be a great species to mix but I've been seeing them get attacked. My water is fine I had that tested but I do know I need one more filter for both species but I don't want to spend the money on it yet. Are giant danios semI aggressive? I do know Madagascar rainbowfish are a peaceful fish and are easily pushed around. Is this what's happening? I loved my Madagascar rainbowfish but they're being killed off and there's not much I can do. Are danios best left in a semI aggressive and/or species only tank? What species can I put with danios if I can't put rainbowfish? Oh and it's a 55 gal with two air stoned and plenty of places to hide
 

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Ed204
  • #2
HI there,
Sounds like your fish are establishing a pecking order. It's pretty much like a gang war, this is when one of the groups of fish decide that the tank isn't big enough for the both of them. Even though that the tank is of a decent size aggression will still occur.

In your case, I wouldn't add more schooling fish to the mix because that would just make it worse. What else do you have in the 55 gal?
 

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TexasDomer
  • #3
Welcome to Fishlore!

Just to rule out water quality issues, can you list your exact water parameters? pH, temp, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates

I ask, because sick or weak fish are often targeted by others and bullied or killed. If the less hardy fish are weakened by water quality, that might explain why they're dying.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
That was everything in my tank except for a couple cichlid rocks and a castle. I don't have an exact results but petco said that it's perfect and that I'm probably not feeding them enough so the danios and bored and are literally eating my rainbows. The pecking order makes sense but what else can I add if my danios are just going to eat them?
 
TexasDomer
  • #5
Don't listen to the employees at Petco Most don't know what they're doing, and will tell you your water is perfect even if you have ammonia and/or nitrites (which means that it's not perfect, and harmful to your fish). I would invest in your own liquid test kit - it's an essential piece of equipment for fishkeeping.

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle?

The danios aren't eating your rainbows because they're hungry - fish don't need as much food as most people think. They're likely bulling them either because the rainbows are weak or the danios are stressed.

Which of the danios are doing it? Pearl danios should be in a larger group, but you don't have room for that. I'd personally rehome those, get your tank cycled if it isn't already, and then get more rainbows and giant danios. The rainbows should eventually get larger than the danios.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
Don't listen to the employees at Petco Most don't know what they're doing, and will tell you your water is perfect even if you have ammonia and/or nitrites (which means that it's not perfect, and harmful to your fish). I would invest in your own liquid test kit - it's an essential piece of equipment for fishkeeping.

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle?

The danios aren't eating your rainbows because they're hungry - fish don't need as much food as most people think. They're likely bulling them either because the rainbows are weak or the danios are stressed.

Which of the danios are doing it? Pearl danios should be in a larger group, but you don't have room for that. I'd personally rehome those, get your tank cycled if it isn't already, and then get more rainbows and giant danios. The rainbows should eventually get larger than the danios.
I'm cycled I know about that. I was told pearls will school with giant danios and I'm not too sure if it's just one danio or if it's the whole school.
 

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TexasDomer
  • #7
The pearls won't school properly with the giant danios. They need to be in groups of 6+ of their own species.

And how do you know you're cycled if you don't know the water parameters? How did you cycle the tank?
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
The pearls won't school properly with the giant danios. They need to be in groups of 6+ of their own species.

And how do you know you're cycled if you don't know the water parameters? How did you cycle the tank?
I used one of those bacteria in a bottle to do a fishless cycle
 
TexasDomer
  • #9
Did you add an ammonia source? How did you check your progress through cycling? How long did you cycle it before adding fish?
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Did you add an ammonia source? How did you check your progress through cycling? How long did you cycle it before adding fish?
It was last winter. All I did was follow the instructions on the bottle and had my water tested by petco at the beginning of the week and at the end

Just a little update this morning two more were killed. All my rainbowfish are now gone. But nobody answered my question are danios semI aggressive?
 

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TexasDomer
  • #11
Danios can be semi-aggressive, particularly with long finned or weak fish.

And it sounds like you didn't cycle your tank correctly. Petco employees usually don't know what they're talking about. If you didn't add an ammonia source, your tank didn't cycle. If the tank didn't cycle, your more sensitive rainbowfish could be negatively affected by ammonia and/or nitrites, which would make them targets for aggression by the more hardy danios.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Danios can be semi-aggressive, particularly with long finned or weak fish.

And it sounds like you didn't cycle your tank correctly. Petco employees usually don't know what they're talking about. If you didn't add an ammonia source, your tank didn't cycle. If the tank didn't cycle, your more sensitive rainbowfish could be negatively affected by ammonia and/or nitrites, which would make them targets for aggression by the more hardy danios.
Ok I see. Rainbowfish seem like they're harder to care for anyway but what can I add with my danios now at this point

Ok I see. Rainbowfish seem like they're harder to care for anyway but what can I add with my danios now at this point
This was supposed to cycle it
cf4c3c598443a3380dbdf7cbf566f35e.jpg
 
TexasDomer
  • #13
Since you just have the danios, I'd finish cycling the tank (get your own liquid test kit - a lot of members here use the API freshwater master kit, cheaper through Amazon or Ebay than pet stores). After you cycle the tank, you add add more pearl danios and more giant danios (and once your cycle catches up, you can add different species as well, like a bottom dwelling schooler and a few centerpiece fish). We can help recommend stocking options if you want.

Even with a bacterial starter, if you didn't add ammonia, the bacteria died.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
Since you just have the danios, I'd finish cycling the tank (get your own liquid test kit - a lot of members here use the API freshwater master kit, cheaper through Amazon or Ebay than pet stores). After you cycle the tank, you add add more pearl danios and more giant danios (and once your cycle catches up, you can add different species as well, like a bottom dwelling schooler and a few centerpiece fish). We can help recommend stocking options if you want.

Even with a bacterial starter, if you didn't add ammonia, the bacteria died.
Yes please and did you see the picture I replied with
 

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TexasDomer
  • #15
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
I did. The last line of my reply was directed at that

What about something like this for your 55 gal?

12x Pearl danio
10x Giant danio
1x Rainbow cichlid
2x Keyhole cichlids
15x Panda cories
That won't over stock it? I did want to switch from a boring peaceful tank to you know a slightly more sophisticated tank. Eventually it's going to go to a natural look. But chichlids and/or gouramis would be what I want as my centerpiece fish
 
JGombs99
  • #17
I've got to weigh in on this one. ajgravedigger13, reading through your thread, especially considering your dialogue with TexasDomer, I can't help but think of my own struggles through fishkeeping, and my own dialogues with TexasDomer. Listen to her, bro! She's good! I can tell you that TexasDomer is the queen of lending advice that you may not want to hear, but you need to (at least this was my experience).

For months, I tried to fight her advice, thinking I knew better (even though I was seeking HER advice!). I thought her stocking plans were going to overstock my tank (just like you asked), and went lighter on all numbers she suggested. I wasn't happy with my tank because it looked empty. About a month, maybe two months ago, I began to follow her (and a few others') advice more closely, and I've been working toward a very similar stocking to what has been suggested to me for close to a year. Guess what? This past month, my tank has looked the best it ever has!

I'm still too much of a beginner to suggest stocking plans. But, as a fellow 55 gallon aquarist who prefers a tank with cichlid centerpiece(s) with large schooling fish, be sure to follow her advice closely, provided you like the fish she's suggesting. In the end, two schools around a few of the more peaceful, smaller cichlids will look gorgeous! Just make sure that you ARE indeed cycled first. If you like Petco (as it seems you do), you can get the API master Test Kit there for right around $30, which is far less than you'll spend on buying fish for an uncycled aquarium. But, the real key in all of my advice is...DO NOT be like me, and DO NOT fight the advice of TexasDomer!
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
I've got to weigh in on this one. ajgravedigger13, reading through your thread, especially considering your dialogue with TexasDomer, I can't help but think of my own struggles through fishkeeping, and my own dialogues with TexasDomer. Listen to her, bro! She's good! I can tell you that TexasDomer is the queen of lending advice that you may not want to hear, but you need to (at least this was my experience).

For months, I tried to fight her advice, thinking I knew better (even though I was seeking HER advice!). I thought her stocking plans were going to overstock my tank (just like you asked), and went lighter on all numbers she suggested. I wasn't happy with my tank because it looked empty. About a month, maybe two months ago, I began to follow her (and a few others') advice more closely, and I've been working toward a very similar stocking to what has been suggested to me for close to a year. Guess what? This past month, my tank has looked the best it ever has!

I'm still too much of a beginner to suggest stocking plans. But, as a fellow 55 gallon aquarist who prefers a tank with cichlid centerpiece(s) with large schooling fish, be sure to follow her advice closely, provided you like the fish she's suggesting. In the end, two schools around a few of the more peaceful, smaller cichlids will look gorgeous! Just make sure that you ARE indeed cycled first. If you like Petco (as it seems you do), you can get the API master Test Kit there for right around $30, which is far less than you'll spend on buying fish for an uncycled aquarium. But, the real key in all of my advice is...DO NOT be like me, and DO NOT fight the advice of TexasDomer!
Ok thanks I appreciate that. Any advice I'll be willing to take. But regardless of how I cycled it shouldn't it be cycled by now this far along?

Even if I go like a natural look and add plants that still won't over stock? I'm not disagreeing with you just learning cause this whole 1 inch of fish per gallon leaves me like 10 fish.
 

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JGombs99
  • #19
From my knowledge (but I could be wrong), no. You need the kit to get exact levels to determine if you're cycled or not.

I'm not knowledge enough to speak to being overstocked or not (but TexasDomer won't mislead you), the 1" rule never works unless you have very small, thin fish.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
From my knowledge (but I could be wrong), no. You need the kit to get exact levels to determine if you're cycled or not.
Ok thanks guess next paycheck I'll fork out the money on a test kit. Does anyone know if a "real" aquarium light can help ease stress on fish? I just leave my lamp on during work
 
JGombs99
  • #21
You really need to know your levels asap, so I'd get the kit absolutely as soon as you can.

I'll leave your light question for someone more experienced, but my understanding is that you should only have your light on when you can enjoy viewing your aquarium.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
You really need to know your levels asap, so I'd get the kit absolutely as soon as you can.

I'll leave your light question for someone more experienced, but my understanding is that you should only have your light on when you can enjoy viewing your aquarium.
Ok so if I wanted to go a natural look should it do dirted or sand or does it not matter cause I don't want plants dying
 

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JGombs99
  • #23
If you have plants, I can't speak to lighting or substrate, sorry. I'll let someone else weigh in on these topics.

But, I do believe plants are another reason to ensure you have a cycled tank
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
If you have plants, I can't speak to lighting or substrate, sorry. I'll let someone else weigh in on these topics.

But, I do believe plants are another reason to ensure you have a cycled tank
ok thanks
 
JGombs99
  • #25
It's ironic that I'm saying this because I do the same thing, but don't make this harder than it needs to be. Also, don't ignore the rules of good fish keeping.

Don't do anything (and certainly don't add ant other fish) until you get your water tested with the proper kit. If you can't get your own kit within a few days, depending on your area, you can likely find an LFS that will test your water with the proper kit. If you do this, make sure it's a mom and pop shop (NOT a chain store), and make sure they're not using test strips. Lastly, either way, make sure you get exact numbers and post them here, and members can advise you.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #26
It's ironic that I'm saying this because I do the same thing, but don't make this harder than it needs to be. Also, don't ignore the rules of good fish keeping.

Don't do anything (and certainly don't add ant other fish) until you get your water tested with the proper kit. If you can't get your own kit within a few days, depending on your area, you can likely find an LFS that will test your water with the proper kit. If you do this, make sure it's a mom and pop shop (NOT a chain store), and make sure they're not using test strips. Lastly, either way, make sure you get exact numbers and post them here, and members can advise you.
Ok petco does use test strips so I guess I'll have to get a test kit and then go from there. But I do need an opinion on what substrate and lights before I go any further
 

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JGombs99
  • #27
I'd really get the cycle thing figured out first. From my understanding, if your tank isn't cycled, or at least moving toward it, you're likely to lose your fish. But, again I'm still pretty much a beginner, so I'll just say good luck and leave it right there.
 
James17
  • #28
I've got to weigh in on this one. ajgravedigger13, reading through your thread, especially considering your dialogue with TexasDomer, I can't help but think of my own struggles through fishkeeping, and my own dialogues with TexasDomer. Listen to her, bro! She's good! I can tell you that TexasDomer is the queen of lending advice that you may not want to hear, but you need to (at least this was my experience).

For months, I tried to fight her advice, thinking I knew better (even though I was seeking HER advice!). I thought her stocking plans were going to overstock my tank (just like you asked), and went lighter on all numbers she suggested. I wasn't happy with my tank because it looked empty. About a month, maybe two months ago, I began to follow her (and a few others') advice more closely, and I've been working toward a very similar stocking to what has been suggested to me for close to a year. Guess what? This past month, my tank has looked the best it ever has!

I'm still too much of a beginner to suggest stocking plans. But, as a fellow 55 gallon aquarist who prefers a tank with cichlid centerpiece(s) with large schooling fish, be sure to follow her advice closely, provided you like the fish she's suggesting. In the end, two schools around a few of the more peaceful, smaller cichlids will look gorgeous! Just make sure that you ARE indeed cycled first. If you like Petco (as it seems you do), you can get the API master Test Kit there for right around $30, which is far less than you'll spend on buying fish for an uncycled aquarium. But, the real key in all of my advice is...DO NOT be like me, and DO NOT fight the advice of TexasDomer!
I've had my fish tank up and running for a little over five years, I recently contacted TexasDomer to help me with stocking suggestions, She is the best. You won't go wrong with her advice.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
I've had my fish tank up and running for a little over five years, I recently contacted TexasDomer to help me with stocking suggestions, She is the best. You won't go wrong with her advice.
I tried messaging her but it wouldn't let me. So I'm hoping she'll respond soon
 
JGombs99
  • #30
You can't private message until you have 100 posts. She'll respond soon, but if you read through all posts in this thread, you'll see that she's already suggested everything I have (and in the off chance I've said something she hasn't, just know that everything I've suggested is with keeping in mind what she's suggested to me before).
 

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ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
You can't private message until you have 100 posts. She'll respond soon, but if you read through all posts in this thread, you'll see that she's already suggested everything I have (and in the off chance I've said something she hasn't, just know that everything I've suggested is with keeping in mind what she's suggested to me before).
100 posts? Man that's a lot. Thanks
 
JGombs99
  • #32
You'll get there sooner than you realize! Each message you put up counts.
 
TexasDomer
  • #33
It's 50 posts until you can PM
Ok thanks I appreciate that. Any advice I'll be willing to take. But regardless of how I cycled it shouldn't it be cycled by now this far along?

Even if I go like a natural look and add plants that still won't over stock? I'm not disagreeing with you just learning cause this whole 1 inch of fish per gallon leaves me like 10 fish.

Completely ignore the inch per gallon rule. It's not a good one.

And as mentioned, you may not be cycled by now. Going forward from here, whenever you clean your filters, don't throw out the media. Rinse it in old tank water (not tap water unless you're dechlorinating it first) and reuse. Every time you throw away your filter cartridge, you're throwing away your good bacteria. Not saying that you're throwing filters away, but some people at fish stores and the cartridge boxes will tell you to do so.

Ok thanks guess next paycheck I'll fork out the money on a test kit. Does anyone know if a "real" aquarium light can help ease stress on fish? I just leave my lamp on during work

For plants, you'll need a dedicated light on for 6-8 hours a day. However, you don't need to spend money on expensive aquarium lights. I use dome work lights from the hardware store to light most of my tanks. You can also use spotlights or strip lights. For plants, you'll want a light temp of 5000 to 10000 K (6500 K is considered ideal). The strength of the lights needed will depend on your tank height, substrate height, and the plants you want to grow.

Ok so if I wanted to go a natural look should it do dirted or sand or does it not matter cause I don't want plants dying

You can dirt the tank and cap with sand or gravel, or you can use sand and add root tabs (look into Osmocote Plus tabs on Ebay) under the plants that are root feeders. Sand and root tabs are much easier than dirted tanks, though you'll need to replace the root tabs every 3 months or so.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
It's 50 posts until you can PM


Completely ignore the inch per gallon rule. It's not a good one.

And as mentioned, you may not be cycled by now. Going forward from here, whenever you clean your filters, don't throw out the media. Rinse it in old tank water (not tap water unless you're dechlorinating it first) and reuse. Every time you throw away your filter cartridge, you're throwing away your good bacteria. Not saying that you're throwing filters away, but some people at fish stores and the cartridge boxes will tell you to do so.



For plants, you'll need a dedicated light on for 6-8 hours a day. However, you don't need to spend money on expensive aquarium lights. I use dome work lights from the hardware store to light most of my tanks. You can also use spotlights or strip lights. For plants, you'll want a light temp of 5000 to 10000 K (6500 K is considered ideal). The strength of the lights needed will depend on your tank height, substrate height, and the plants you want to grow.



You can dirt the tank and cap with sand or gravel, or you can use sand and add root tabs (look into Osmocote Plus tabs on Ebay) under the plants that are root feeders. Sand and root tabs are much easier than dirted tanks, though you'll need to replace the root tabs every 3 months or so.
I'm aware of not rinsing the media out thanks that much I do know. There isn't a difference if I use sand or dirt to grow plants?
 

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TexasDomer
  • #35
Dirt has the nutrients that plants need, but you'll need to cap it with sand or gravel to keep it contained. Dirt can really cloud up your tank, and even with cap, it'll be difficult to move plants without making a mess. Sand doesn't have the nutrients plants need, but that's why you add root tabs - the root tabs will provide nutrients for the plants. Sand is so much easier to use.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #36
Dirt has the nutrients that plants need, but you'll need to cap it with sand or gravel to keep it contained. Dirt can really cloud up your tank, and even with cap, it'll be difficult to move plants without making a mess. Sand doesn't have the nutrients plants need, but that's why you add root tabs - the root tabs will provide nutrients for the plants. Sand is so much easier to use.
What's the importance of capping it if you bake out all the germs in the dirt to make it aquarium safe?
 
TexasDomer
  • #37
What's the importance of capping it if you bake out all the germs in the dirt to make it aquarium safe?

Capping it has nothing to do with what bacteria are in the dirt. Capping it keeps it from going everywhere in the tank and turning your tank into a muddy mess.

You don't need to bake it if you're getting it from a store, like a Miracle Grow bag.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
Capping it has nothing to do with what bacteria are in the dirt. Capping it keeps it from going everywhere in the tank and turning your tank into a muddy mess.

You don't need to bake it if you're getting it from a store, like a Miracle Grow bag.
So if you don't cap it it will get everywhere? I didn't know that. And sand doesn't do that?
 

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TexasDomer
  • #39
Yes and yes.
 
ajgravedigger13
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
Yes and yes.
Sorry if I'm asking too many questions but how is it that sand doesn't do that
 

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