D.I.Y. Sump questions. - Page 3

maverick4300

good piece of information, man. thanks
 

thatreefguy22

Hey users of fishlore!, I'm going to be doing my own sump.
I haven't done much research on DIY sumps..BUT! Here's one question on thickness of glass baffles...
How thick should the baffles be??

That's all! (For now..) lol


 

thatreefguy22

I really like the second link, it helps a bunch.
And it talks about how much water you should have in your fuge section on the sump if you're running a 55 gallon tank...ironically, that's the size tank I'm currently running!

But I'm trying to figure out, like, what should be in "MY" sump design.

I'm stuck on the baffle wall placements, I know the 1" rule for bubble traps. Does the thickness of the walls matter, though?

Maybe I should let you all know, I'm going for a 20L sump design.

In this design I hope to have...

Chamber 1: inlet/beginning with mechanical filtration, with enough room to place a skimmer pump.

Chamber 2: refuge

Chamber 3: ATO float switch, the actual skimmer (skimmer pump will be located in chamber 1. If that'll fine.) and my return pump to the main tank.

And I'm still thinking of other things that could be of great use in this set up.
I currently am keeping it a FOWLR until I get a good sump design and a better light to accommodate any coral/reef life.

I thank you all so much for all the help! Stay happy.




 

1971roadrunner

The need for filter socks in chamber 1 depends on the individual and the way the system works but I definitely prefer them in my system vrs not using them - I've tried it with and without. If using chamber 2 as a refuge be sure to diffuse the water evenly so not to get too much turbulence in one area of it. The only thing to keep in mind when having the skimmer in chamber 3 is having micro bubbles getting sucked up by the return pump and thus into the DT. The ATO needs to be in chamber 3 as you stated 'cause if the sump is set up correctly that is where the evaporation will be so that's correct.
 

Aquarist

Link above you might find helpful if using acrylic.

Ken
 

thatreefguy22

I've changed up my mind a bit...

Instead of having the fuge in the middle, I have been on google searching 20G long DIY sump plans...and I really like the idea of putting the fuge at the far right.

So...
Chamber 1:
Inlet/other sponge type filter pads/skimmer.

Chamber 2:
The return section,
Plumbed with a "T" connector..With a flow control (ball valve) that will lead into chamber 3, the fuge.

Chamber 3:
The refugium.

I'm almost 100% sure on doing a 20L sump...using glass baffles of 1/4" thick. Placing the bubble traps in between chamber #1 and #2, baffle 2 will sit 1" above the sump tank floor, whilst each baffle sit 1-1.5" apart.
Between chamber #3 and #2 will consist of one baffle wall slightly higher than the baffles between chamber #1 and #2. (About an 1-1.5" higher.) note me if that would be a mistake!!

Lastly,
I'm now on to plumbing/return pump ???gph.

I plan on hard plumbing this 20L sump.
And head heigh from the base of the sump to top of the DT is about 3'9" (roughly) I just did a quick measurement.

I'm learning...

Thanks a lot for the help you all!!




 

1971roadrunner

I'll say right off the bat I've never built a DIY sump system but have a DIY refugium plumbed into my sump system. I have read and watched the building of ones similar to what your doing and think your on the right track. To play it safe I suggest doing exactly what someone else has done to a tee or you will probably have to make a lot of time consuming changes to it along the way. I regards to the return pump as you may know it depends on the pump to keep up with the intake rate or BETTER (the overflow rate). I don't know what kind of GPH you looking for but a return pump with adjustable flow rate would be invaluable. Maybe one with a max of 700gph?
 

thatreefguy22

I'll say right off the bat I've never built a DIY sump system but have a DIY refugium plumbed into my sump system. I have read and watched the building of ones similar to what your doing and think your on the right track. To play it safe I suggest doing exactly what someone else has done to a tee or you will probably have to make a lot of time consuming changes to it along the way. I regards to the return pump as you may know it depends on the pump to keep up with the intake rate or BETTER (the overflow rate). I don't know what kind of GPH you looking for but a return pump with adjustable flow rate would be invaluable. Maybe one with a max of 700gph?

I plan on plumbing my return with a T just like others have. It's nothing new, I just wanted to really know if I am staying on the right track with my first DIY project for my tank. Thanks!!

As for the drain, my eshopps 300gph has a 1" drain tube (after I build my DIY sump I plan to hard PVC everything. A smooth look.)
And my return will be going to the DT as it always should on any set up, but the different thing is I'm just isolating the fuge as noted above in other replies, and using a T. One direction to DT and one to the fuge (ball valve will be installed on the fuge line.)
Also, the exit flow into the fuge will have another T to diffuse the flow so none hits and disturbs the rocks/macro/sand. We don't want that!

Thanks for following me along my planning!! Means a lot, I'm also using reef central for a reference.

(A bit off topic, I know!)

I work almost 7 days a week, with 12 hour shifts mixed in...so you can imagine how much time I have to do research on my own...I do try to get as much in on my own, just not as much. But, think god I retain information pretty well! Or i'd be screwed out of a fun filled hobby...LOL. (Not really.)



 

1971roadrunner

The flow going to the fuge sounds fine but how is the flow from the fuge going back in the system? What kind of head room are you dealing with in regards to the return pump? I'm assuming you know about the need for a check valves on the return? I would like to see a pic or something to better understand, I got a Ruby 36 Elite slightly used for $200 a few days ago (that I wasn't going to mention yet) that I'm just starting to plan out so were in the same place.





*i'll show you mine if you show me yours.
 

thatreefguy22

The flow going to the fuge sounds fine but how is the flow from the fuge going back in the system? What kind of head room are you dealing with in regards to the return pump? I'm assuming you know about the need for a check valves on the return? I would like to see a pic or something to better understand, I got a Ruby 36 Elite slightly used for $200 a few days ago (that I wasn't going to mention yet) that I'm just starting to plan out so were in the same place.





*i'll show you mine if you show me yours.

Right now, I do not have anything to start the construction of my sump.
So I can't do much to show you...I'm sorry for that..:/

But about the check valves, I've read and heard a few things such as, making it much safer if the pump were to fail or a power failure..
My opinion on that is...make sure you don't over do it with water and you'll be fine!! No flooding of the sump! Haha.
But that's my philosophy on check valves.

As for head loss, I'm going to need a pump that can handle filling the DT, as well as supplying water to my fuge.
On to my head loss, 3ft 9in *roughly.

So, I'm assuming with hard plumbing on the drain/return...a pump that is a bit over kill will not be a problem?
Any pumps in mind? If you can help! Thanks!!


 

thatreefguy22

1971roadrunner.
Also!, a 20L is 12" in height...
I was thinking, the baffle that separates my fuge and return could be maybe...8"? That's how water will leave the fuge is by flowing over that baffles back into the return. So, a constant cycle is all using the same pump for the return to my DT.

Hopefully this helps, I might draw a diagram for you just so you'd get a better understanding of my idea of my sump.

I'll go do that


 

1971roadrunner

Like/said, I never did a DIY sump but I'll put in a search for them (sure many pics will pop up). I'm wondering with the space available will much of a fuge be available? I'm assuming the skimmer will be an in-sump and if so you need to account for the proper height of water in there for it to run. Do you know what skimmer you want and taken into account how much room it will require? I was thinking a Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 7 (or 5) with a max of 700gph (gotta love the names of some of this stuff-sounds like a gun) ???



This is a typical 20 gallon long sump
 

thatreefguy22

Here is a simple diagram for you, 1971roadrunner!
The measurements for the baffles are not official...but I hope this helps!!


ImageUploadedByFish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum1405822679.837189.jpg


 

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thatreefguy22

Like/said, I never did a DIY sump but I'll put in a search for them (sure many pics will pop up). I'm wondering with the space available will much of a fuge be available? I'm assuming the skimmer will be an in-sump and if so you need to account for the proper height of water in there for it to run. Do you know what skimmer you want and taken into account how much room it will require? I was thinking a Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 7 (or 5) with a max of 700gph (gotta love the names of some of this stuff-sounds like a gun) ???

It does indeed sound like a gun...haha
I have a lot of room under my stand!!
That's why a 20L will work best for me, leaving ton of room to work while having room for a good skimmer.


 

1971roadrunner

I edited in a pic above of a 20L. sump. I'll think on this for a while (while pretending to listen to the g-friend-joke ) then get back later. In the mean time get the exact foot print measurements for the skimmer and the return pump and take that into account.
 

thatreefguy22

I edited in a pic above of a 20L. sump. I'll think on this for a while (while pretending to listen to the g-friend-joke ) then get back later. In the mean time get the exact foot print measurements for the skimmer and the return pump and take that into account.

I know how that is with the gf. Haha.
And I will, first I have to select a pump and a skimmer :x



 

1971roadrunner

I'm now replacing my sump and return pump after too many years of service and other reasons as well. In researching possible other return pumps for myself saw some reviews of return pumps for your needs. Most seem to prefer the Eheim's (#1260-640gph) over the Mag 5/7. The Eheim's gph sits right in the middle of those two and are considered better for a variety of reasons such as less power required, less heat, just as reliable, a little quieter etc..but more $. There are plenty of other manufacturers but these two seem to be the most common according to what I've read. Maybe some one else on FL could chime in on this etc...? ttyl
 

thatreefguy22

It's been crazy for me this weekend, I was busy moving into a new apartment. So that said, I had to tear down my 55g, just for now.

My trigger is in the 10 gallon I was using as the sump for holding until I can get settled in and set the 55 gallon back up...for now I'm using a 10 gallon tub for my sump and all live rock is in it for the time being!

While the 55 gallon is down,
I'll be working on this 20L sump we've been talking about
I'm just curious to how long and how much it'll all be.

Thanks a lot 1971roadrunner for all the help!
Ttyl


 

1971roadrunner

I just want to stress again that knowing the footprint of the skimmer (return pump too) in advance to building this will make/break what you're trying to accomplish. I viewed your diagram and compared it to other 20 gallon longs people have done while researching my own new system. I'm concerned that you may not be allowing enough space in the first compartment for a skimmer unless you want to hang one over the side which is quite possible. One reason I'm going with a new sump is to increase the size of my skimmer - IMO it's the heart of the system. With the return pump you will need to account for "head room loss etc..." and have a good dwell time in there. If the GPH through the sump is too fast it could cause problems with micro bubbles, noise, flooding etc...this is not as hard as it sounds - just takes some research and patience .
 

thatreefguy22

I just want to stress again that knowing the footprint of the skimmer (return pump too) in advance to building this will make/break what you're trying to accomplish. I viewed your diagram and compared it to other 20 gallon longs people have done while researching my own new system. I'm concerned that you may not be allowing enough space in the first compartment for a skimmer unless you want to hang one over the side which is quite possible. One reason I'm going with a new sump is to increase the size of my skimmer - IMO it's the heart of the system. With the return pump you will need to account for "head room loss etc..." and have a good dwell time in there. If the GPH through the sump is too fast it could cause problems with micro bubbles, noise, flooding etc...this is not as hard as it sounds - just takes some research and patience .

That's where I'm lacking...see, I'll have a head loss of about 4ft.
Since my return pump won't only be returning water to my DT, but my fuge as well...I would not see any problems with a 600-700gph for me. What was the model of the one pump you mentioned??


 

thatreefguy22

As for a skimmer, I still have to choose, I only have a basic idea of my layout, no exact measurements right yet lol


 

1971roadrunner

That's why I was thinking of the 600-700gph RP's. Many think this will be the flow rate through the sump but not. Just making sure. I stressed the foot print of the skimmer 'cause you want to consider what skimmer size you need before than after and be limited in how effective the skimmer will be due to having to use an undersized one. I've seen nice sized skimmers in 20 longs that are great for your size tank but looking at the pics of them worries me about this fuge or the design you want being possible? I was thinking a skimmer such as a reef octopus xs160 which would be 3x tour DT's volume (which is what I'm trying to do) and the foot print is 6" but a little extra room would be necessary for convenience to the unit. ttyl

*also where the skimmer resides will need room for the inlet (down tube) from the dt. back to work for me - later
 

1971roadrunner

BTW - ryanr posted this on a thread I started today, thought it would help. I somehow never saw this one.
 

thatreefguy22

That's why I was thinking of the 600-700gph RP's. Many think this will be the flow rate through the sump but not. Just making sure. I stressed the foot print of the skimmer 'cause you want to consider what skimmer size you need before than after and be limited in how effective the skimmer will be due to having to use an undersized one. I've seen nice sized skimmers in 20 longs that are great for your size tank but looking at the pics of them worries me about this fuge or the design you want being possible? I was thinking a skimmer such as a reef octopus xs160 which would be 3x tour DT's volume (which is what I'm trying to do) and the foot print is 6" but a little extra room would be necessary for convenience to the unit. ttyl

*also where the skimmer resides will need room for the inlet (down tube) from the dt. back to work for me - later

Maybe 10" on chamber 1 will do fine? Or more?

Chamber 2 (return) 8"

Chamber 3 (fuge) 12"

?

And about the RP pump....are you saying that'd be a pump I might wanna go for? As it is at the gph I am aiming for...but I still fear that'll be a bit too much for my 300gph drain..that might just be me though. Haha



 

1971roadrunner

The pump needs to be stronger than required due to head room or 90 degree angles in pvc etc...keeping the gph back. You want extra head room anyway and I think the Eheims have flow control. If no flow control use a simple ball valve. Did you read ryanr's above thread yet - I think not. The guy's good, read it .

*click on my above post where it says "20 Gallon Sump"
 

thatreefguy22

The pump needs to be stronger than required due to head room or 90 degree angles in pvc etc...keeping the gph back. You want extra head room anyway and I think the Eheims have flow control. If no flow control use a simple ball valve. Did you read ryanr's above thread yet - I think not. The guy's good, read it .

*click on my above post where it says "20 Gallon Sump"

I'm a bit busy ATM, but I did take a quick peak and I like how it is going

About the pump/head loss, I knew that. Lol it just always gets to me :x even though I'm aware of the head height, and the way it is plumbed anyhow.

I'll take a look at dr foster and smith and shop around and size out my skimmer and pump!
I'll get back to you later 1971roadrunner. Thanks a lot for sticking with me on this build



 

thatreefguy22

Was this the pump?
This one is adjustable, and has the 700gph range model.




 

1971roadrunner

Yeah that's it. If you run the 700gph you'll have to slow it down further with a ball valve. This is fine but too much restriction of a return pump can shorten it's life. I made a mistake in having too much flow though my sump 'cause wanted to use my returns to power an (undergravel jet system) UGJS to create flow in my tank but that's what power heads are for. I shelved my UGJS for my 150 gallon and positioned my added power heads to take up the slack. My new rule of thumb (and that of most others) is a return pump that returns 10x the sumps volume per hour at 4-5 foot head (yours as you said 4ft) so that's what I suggest and plan for myself. I think 200gph max through your sump should be your target #. Lets say the sump is 20 gallon and the water volume will be around 12g then 120 gallon turn over is good but as said could go higher? I'm going for more dwell time in my sump this time around. You said your over flow is 300gph, I think that's very high and maybe ball valve that down and maybe a smaller diameter PVC too?

*have you considered a bio-pellet (BP) reactor?
*in case you haven't noticed I'm an equipment junkie - later.
 

thatreefguy22

Yeah that's it. If you run the 700gph you'll have to slow it down further with a ball valve. This is fine but too much restriction of a return pump can shorten it's life. I made a mistake in having too much flow though my sump 'cause wanted to use my returns to power an (undergravel jet system) UGJS to create flow in my tank but that's what power heads are for. I shelved my UGJS for my 150 gallon and positioned my added power heads to take up the slack. My new rule of thumb (and that of most others) is a return pump that returns 10x the sumps volume per hour at 4-5 foot head (yours as you said 4ft) so that's what I suggest and plan for myself. I think 200gph max through your sump should be your target #. Lets say the sump is 20 gallon and the water volume will be around 12g then 120 gallon turn over is good but as said could go higher? I'm going for more dwell time in my sump this time around. You said your over flow is 300gph, I think that's very high and maybe ball valve that down and maybe a smaller diameter PVC too?

*have you considered a bio-pellet (BP) reactor?
*in case you haven't noticed I'm an equipment junkie - later.

How could I down the size of the pipe diameter?
I have a 1.25" hole for a 1" bulkhead...

And, a ball valve on a return I heard was a bad thing...I have one on my set up now but I didn't even need to adjust it! I spent days trying to get my first sump going because I thought my return was way too powerful but found myself leaving it way open..

I should note that, with this current overflow, I am using a maxI jet marine land 1200 model.lol
But I will admit, I'm a bit confused on what point you're trying to get out on this post 1971roadrunner,
Anyway, me saying what I said and had done...I don't think I'll need a down size on my drain pipe!
Unless you meant by it would be too much flow going into the sump?



 

thatreefguy22

I'm going to read up on that one link you posted...I haven't gotten around to that yet lol


 

1971roadrunner

I thought you had a gravity fed overflow into a 1" down pipe? A 1" = 590 gph unless you take into account strainers and angles in the piping. The point I was trying to make was that having too much flow going through the sump will invite a whole host of problems. Just because a lot of water is going through the sump doesn't mean it's better. 2-4x the DT's gallons is another way to put what I said for a flow rate through the sump. It's one thing to have a sump system but the flow rate through them is a major factor in it being as effective as possible or not. Try putting in a search for this. I'm trying to have my flow rate around the GPH of my skimmer. Faster is not better and just because water is passing through it doesn't mean it's working well.
 

thatreefguy22

I thought you had a gravity fed overflow into a 1" down pipe? A 1" = 590 gph unless you take into account strainers and angles in the piping. The point I was trying to make was that having too much flow going through the sump will invite a whole host of problems. Just because a lot of water is going through the sump doesn't mean it's better. 2-4x the DT's gallons is another way to put what I said for a flow rate through the sump. It's one thing to have a sump system but the flow rate through them is a major factor in it being as effective as possible or not. Try putting in a search for this. I'm trying to have my flow rate around the GPH of my skimmer. Faster is not better and just because water is passing through it doesn't mean it's working well.

I have a none drilled tank, I use a HOB overflow, which is fed by continuous siphon. (I should have mentioned that, sorry lol)
So the 300gph is dropped a bit, as I would assume because, it has to travel in the U tube before draining.
And I'm probably going to have a few angled pieces (I'll have to see.)

And I never knew that flow was important to how the sump works...so you want to get the sump flow to match your flow rate of the protein skimmer? Right, seems like a legit rule to follow, as well as matching the return as close as possible.

I'll post a link to my protein skimmer I'm taking into mind to buy for this set up.


 

thatreefguy22

Here is the skimmer I plan on using, the one rated for 100 gallon tanks. Mine is a 55 gallon DT. The pump for this skimmer, is rated 250gph.




 

1971roadrunner

I'm a big Reef Octopus fan, have one now and currently upgrading to another. The one I have now will be used later when I convert my 125g Freshwater to a Saltwater set up - it still works great after MANY years of service.
I like the one you posted but here comes my gripe ! It comes with an aquatrance or OTP pump, either of which tend to last for 2yrs at best and likely to have impeller troubles along the way to keep an eye on. I look for either Sicce or Bubble Blaster pumps on my skimmer for a variety of reasons other than just reliability. A R.Octopus SRO 1000 or Diablo XS 160 do come with these but it costs $. This skimmer you want will do great but if trouble arises down the road you could always just put one of these other two pumps on it later. As usual it comes down to price.
I'm thrilled your getting a handle on the importance of flow rates through a sump but get it in the right ball park then you can make easy adjustments from there to fine tune your system.

*you may want to start a new thread on this or other components you want to discuss? We'll find you .
 

thatreefguy22

I'm a big Reef Octopus fan, have one now and currently upgrading to another. The one I have now will be used later when I convert my 125g Freshwater to a Saltwater set up - it still works great after MANY years of service.
I like the one you posted but here comes my gripe ! It comes with an aquatrance or OTP pump, either of which tend to last for 2yrs at best and likely to have impeller troubles along the way to keep an eye on. I look for either Sicce or Bubble Blaster pumps on my skimmer for a variety of reasons other than just reliability. A R.Octopus SRO 1000 or Diablo XS 160 do come with these but it costs $. This skimmer you want will do great but if trouble arises down the road you could always just put one of these other two pumps on it later. As usual it comes down to price.
I'm thrilled your getting a handle on the importance of flow rates through a sump but get it in the right ball park then you can make easy adjustments from there to fine tune your system.

*you may want to start a new thread on this or other components you want to discuss? We'll find you .

That's good! I'm set on the return pump and skimmer! (But as you said, I'll want to just upgrade the skimmer pump as needed.) which I won't have a problem doing.

And, I guess it's on to buying the 20L tank to map this out. And would you like me to keep this thread going? I'd like to, only because I wanna let you and who ever reads this see where I go.

It's a good experience, and I'm being quite patient

So, I'll get the tank, get glass cut for the baffles, measure the chamber sizes, get PVC for plumbing, and return pump and skimmer.

Thanks again 1971roadrunner



 

1971roadrunner

Right on man!!! Also put some thought into positioning the sump under the tank that works best. When I positioned mine I considered my needs as far as what other equipment I may want and even how to keep as many 90 degree angles out, I try to stick to 2x 45 degree angles vrs 90's to keep my gph up and not put any more stress on my system. 90's are fine but the fewer the better.

*yeah sure we'll keep this thread running and your VERY welcome .
 

1971roadrunner

This is how to use 2x 45 degree angles to get rid of 90's. It's a real pain to do but well worth it in the end.




*my new sump system is going to be the end of me .
 

thatreefguy22

This is how to use 2x 45 degree angles to get rid of 90's. It's a real pain to do but well worth it in the end.




*my new sump system is going to be the end of me .

I see...so I have questions.
I think I might buy my 20L tank sometime this weekend.

I have the eshopps pf 300gph model overflow...I guess it's 300gph, the siphon in the u tube doesn't slow anything down.

Should I still be good getting the return pump and skimmer I had decided on earlier on in this post?

And that's a great idea for the 45 degree plumbing

I'll keep you posted on the build


 

thatreefguy22

I'm looking on other threads about other tank equipment


 

1971roadrunner

Actually you will be fine with that. The overflow box will only allow as much water into the sump as is being refilled by the return pump back into the tank. I never worked with "U" shaped syphon overflows (always drilled intakes) but within a certain gph range you should have room for some gph to lessen and be OK. You actually WANT the overflow to be able to accept more gph than the return pump can handle - not the other way around.
 

thatreefguy22

Actually you will be fine with that. The overflow box will only allow as much water into the sump as is being refilled by the return pump back into the tank. I never worked with "U" shaped syphon overflows (always drilled intakes) but within a certain gph range you should have room for some gph to lessen and be OK. You actually WANT the overflow to be able to accept more gph than the return pump can handle - not the other way around.

This makes a whole lot of sense!! That's kinda how it is for me now.

So, as you said "dwell" time in the sump...is this by all means necessary?

I wanna make sure I will be getting better filtration than my last set up without a skimmer and without a fuge.

This is my first shot with a skimmer and fuge. I was a bit confused when you were saying I should try and match the skimmers gph with my drain or get as near as possible?
I plan on adding a bubble blaster to that RO skimmer I linked above.

But, yes, it makes a lot of sense to have the pump pumping less than what is draining.
I think I have it...drains can obviously only drain as much can fit down the inlet pipe, but at 4ft a 800gph would obviously be way too much and possible flood the tank.
Right.

So I'm set on the skimmer and return pump.
I can't wait to get it planned with actually measurements and then plumb it and once it's going...
What other filtration equipment do you find useful?


 

1971roadrunner

I went back on this thread (loooong thread) and see where I gave you that impression. I guess I was thinking a much lower gph rate then and wasn't sure if a 300 gph overflow would work. Now that we got that cleared up, why not just buy a better skimmer. The two I recommended already have the better pump? It would probably be cheaper anyway overall?
 

thatreefguy22

I went back on this thread (loooong thread) and see where I gave you that impression. I guess I was thinking a much lower gph rate then and wasn't sure if a 300 gph overflow would work. Now that we got that cleared up, why not just buy a better skimmer. The two I recommended already have the better pump? It would probably be cheaper anyway overall?

Sure, now that I know my overflow can handle higher powered skimmers...what were the names again? I'll take a look at them


 

1971roadrunner

They (skimmers) appear earlier in this thread. BTW, the gph through the sump doesn't have to match that of the skimmer. However the general consensus feel that it should be in the same ball park. Since I had these two matched up on my system my skimmer has been working overtime compared to prior so I speak from experience as well. My flow rate through the sump used to be 2x what my skimmers gph is, now they are relatively equal.
 

thatreefguy22

This skimmer has the OTP...something you mentioned earlier on.


It's within my range of budget!
I think I'd go for the 4". The gph for that is 250...pretty close, I'd say.
And the return pump, I'm thinking this...



I think I now am going to have a Y splitter for dual flow direction in my DT.

-is it illegal to keep going on with questions that ask the same thing over and over? Or is it just mystery solving? Getting you closer to your goal.




 

1971roadrunner

This is why I try to stay off social media-too confusing and time consuming but... I thought you said you were going to put a bubble blaster on it when you got it. Go ahead and get the above skimmer (it'll work great for now) but just be aware that after a year or two you may have to replace it and when you do the new pump for it will help it work even better. As for the above RP - I have no idea but if you put in a search and read some threads about them (if there are any) you'll be all the better for it.
 

Wolf65

It would be great if someone could help me out here a bit:

I'm planning for a custom build 150-180 gallon freshwater tank with 6ft long and would like to have a sump filter system. I got an old 4ft 75 gallon tank which I plan to use as the sump filter. What I don't now is how to separate and how big each compartment should be.

The plan is to have a quarantine tank as middle section or a hospital tank.

The main tank I believe has simply a hole in the bottom and an overflow pipe going into it. This overflow will first touch a fine mechanical media and than the biological media. I plan only fine media as it is on top and easy replaceable or washable.

Currently I use canister filters with good ceramic rings as biological filters.

Now my questions:

What filter media would you recommend?
How many compartments do I need?
How big should each compartment be?
What equipment do I need? Heater is not needed
What size pump should it be or how many turnovers should I consider?
Is a submersed pump better or an external one?
Should I split the water inlet to the main tank in 2 spray bars or only 1?

And finally.....does anybody have maybe a drawing I could use? I found so many in the internet but all different and I'm confused.

Thanks in advance
 

Coradee

Sounds like you have an interesting project planned, hope someone can answer your questions today
 

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