Cycling with plants

I plan on using distilled water to start. Is this good? Should I add anything to it before putting the water in the tank?

I was planning on running everything with water only for a few days to ensure all the equipment is working properly. Sound good?

Should I add anything to the cycling water before adding plants? I have seachem equilibrium, which I plan on using to restore mineral content. I also have seachem flourish excel, not sure if this is a before during or after addition I have root tabs on hand and will use them with rooting plants when adding them. Sound correct? Any suggestions?

I'm planning on adding a few plants to start. Easy stuff. Java fern, crypts, anubias Nana, Java moss, duckweed. Other suggestions?

I plan on doing some sort of dip for the plants before placing them, depending on the plant. Suggestions?

Once the plants are in, what can I expect from a tank cycle? How fast? When should I start testing?

Other suggestions? I've done soft corals in a salt tank before, but this is my first planted freshwater tank.

Thanks in advance for your input.

I would just use tap water to avoid fluctuations, because if you do ever use tap water it will have different PH/GH/KH than distilled water.

Sure, run everything for a few days. It should kinda clean out the equipment to.

I would add some ferts when/a little before you add plants. Nilocg Thrive is a really good all in one fertilizer.

I would recommend not using root tabs on any of the plants listed, none of them are heavy root feeders.

I recommend you get some anacharis, its a really good beginner plant.

I would do a bleach water soak to kill any bacteria and unwanted critters.

Start cycling once the plants are in. It should take a few weeks, there is no exact time.

 

In a planted tank it makes since to me to cycle it with fish food. After all that's what you will be using to feed your tank when its established why not cycle with it. Not only will it produce ammonia but will add other nutrients to your tank that, in the right quantities, are needed by the plants, fish and inverts that will be in the tank, such as calcium, phosphorus and even various vitamins. Start slowly and build up until your tank can handle what you approximate your usage will be when it is stocked.

 

I would just use tap water to avoid fluctuations, because if you do ever use tap water it will have different PH/GH/KH than distilled water.

Sure, run everything for a few days. It should kinda clean out the equipment to.

I would add some ferts when/a little before you add plants. Nilocg Thrive is a really good all in one fertilizer.

I would recommend not using root tabs on any of the plants listed, none of them are heavy root feeders.

I recommend you get some anacharis, its a really good beginner plant.

I would do a bleach water soak to kill any bacteria and unwanted critters.

Start cycling once the plants are in. It should take a few weeks, there is no exact time.

Wow... Thank you, a wealth of information.

On water - I have a well, so it is a bit of a challenge. The water is very hard ~17gpg. It also has a lot of iron in it. I have never tested the pH or KH, but could do that. Not sure that it would matter because of the other conditions. I'll add into this equation the drip of H2O2 which i understand could be beneficial, but I'm not sure it outweighs the hardness and/or iron.

I know the water I get from my softener is no good, so that is out.

I am left with bottled drinking water form the store, which I could do. Its a small tank so I could handle the cost of purchasing a few gallons each week.

Any thoughts on that?

Thank you, thank you, thank you for all of the other comments and suggestions. Very much appreciated.

 

In a planted tank it makes since to me to cycle it with fish food. After all that's what you will be using to feed your tank when its established why not cycle with it. Not only will it produce ammonia but will add other nutrients to your tank that, in the right quantities, are needed by the plants, fish and inverts that will be in the tank, such as calcium, phosphorus and even various vitamins. Start slowly and build up until your tank can handle what you approximate your usage will be when it is stocked.

Thanks for the comment. I've used fish food (and ammonia) in the past with other tanks. I see your point about introducing in the waste that will be prevalent in the tank to cycle it. I was thinking about doing plants only because I'm in no rush to put fish in.

The load will be pretty light given that I'm only putting in chili rasboras and eventually shrimp. Not sure which way I'll go. Maybe a tiny bit of fish food will help.

 

A bacterial and archaea cycle will develop a little down the road, but the plants you have chosen are all slow growing and have a low nutrient demand. Not really a huge issue because chilis and shrimp have such a tiny bioload. However you might want to get some faster growing plants too, it'll make cycling easier and will prevent algae.
You might want to skip the duckweed, it's extremely hard to get rid of once you have it.
I also say use tap, and get a GH/KH test kit, but if it's extremely hard cut it with distilled water to bring it down if you wish. Might be better for the chilis.
I might be wrong but 300 watts for a heater sounds like way overkill on a 10 gallon. Rule of thumb is 3-5 watts per gallon.

 

A bacterial and archaea cycle will develop a little down the road, but the plants you have chosen are all slow growing and have a low nutrient demand. Not really a huge issue because chilis and shrimp have such a tiny bioload. However you might want to get some faster growing plants too, it'll make cycling easier and will prevent algae.
You might want to skip the duckweed, it's extremely hard to get rid of once you have it.
I also say use tap, and get a GH/KH test kit, but if it's extremely hard cut it with distilled water to bring it down if you wish. Might be better for the chilis.
I might be wrong but 300 watts for a heater sounds like way overkill on a 10 gallon. Rule of thumb is 3-5 watts per gallon.

Any recommendations on faster growing plants... wisteria? I was also thinking of Bacopa caroliniana and some red tiger Lily for color.

As far as duckweed, I was hoping to get a floating plant to make some shade for the chili Rasboras without. Completely blocking out the lighting. Duckweed seemed to for t the bill. Do you have another recommendation? Water Spangles maybe?

I have an API master kit, so I could do some tests on the water. I already know the water is extremely hard and very high in iron. It's concerning because I have seen what it does to my house plumbing untreated so I'm hesitant to put it in a fish tank.

The heater will be fine. It is of course overkill, I used to run a 75 gallon with it, but I've also run this exact 10 gallon on it and it keeps extremely stable temps. Unless I am missing something with the plants or the shrimp and fish. I've never kept plants or these types of fish/shrimp with this heater. Not sure what the problem could be if it holds good temps.

 

pH is high out of the tap. No GH/KH tests yet. Any suggestions on water? If I "cut" the tap water with distilled, would it have an effect? Can I adjust it as it stands... its not outrageously high... What would help adjust?

 

Any recommendations on faster growing plants... wisteria? I was also thinking of Bacopa caroliniana and some red tiger Lily for color.

As far as duckweed, I was hoping to get a floating plant to make some shade for the chili Rasboras without. Completely blocking out the lighting. Duckweed seemed to for t the bill. Do you have another recommendation? Water Spangles maybe?

I have an API master kit, so I could do some tests on the water. I already know the water is extremely hard and very high in iron. It's concerning because I have seen what it does to my house plumbing untreated so I'm hesitant to put it in a fish tank.

The heater will be fine. It is of course overkill, I used to run a 75 gallon with it, but I've also run this exact 10 gallon on it and it keeps extremely stable temps. Unless I am missing something with the plants or the shrimp and fish. I've never kept plants or these types of fish/shrimp with this heater. Not sure what the problem could be if it holds good temps.

Wisteria is a good choice, anacharsis, hygrophila, pearlweed, all fast growing and easy.

pH is high out of the tap. No GH/KH tests yet. Any suggestions on water? If I "cut" the tap water with distilled, would it have an effect? Can I adjust it as it stands... its not outrageously high... What would help adjust?

If I'm reading correctly it looks like 8.0? Not a big issue, but chilis may enjoy softer water Cutting it with distilled will definitely soften water and drop pH.

 

You might want to skip the duckweed, it's extremely hard to get rid of once you have it.

This is one thing I see all the time and don't get. How is it hard to remove? Scoop it out? Sorry to hijack thread....

 

This is one thing I see all the time and don't get. How is it hard to remove? Scoop it out? Sorry to hijack thread....

See after hearing all about it online I've avoided it like the plague (same deal with snails) so I actually don't have firsthand experience Just from looking at it I can easily imagine how that's the case though, it's tiny and there's always a ton of it. I've seen it in ponds and videos and it sticks to everything. Maybe it's just forum parroting though!

 

See after hearing all about it online I've avoided it like the plague (same deal with snails) so I actually don't have firsthand experience Just from looking at it I can easily imagine how that's the case though, it's tiny and there's always a ton of it. I've seen it in ponds and videos and it sticks to everything. Maybe it's just forum parroting though!

Who knows it just looks like you could carefully pick it out. I have no idea though. I guess I will find out because I now have some

 

Who knows it just looks like you could carefully pick it out. I have no idea though. I guess I will find out because I now have some

I like the conversation. Thanks!

I'm going to steer clear of it. I've actually heard you can eat it... No thanks

 

It is a great superfood if grown in a proper hydroponics system. In the aquarium there is too high of risk of the plant having bad stuff from the fish.

 

This is one thing I see all the time and don't get. How is it hard to remove? Scoop it out? Sorry to hijack thread....

See after hearing all about it online I've avoided it like the plague (same deal with snails) so I actually don't have firsthand experience Just from looking at it I can easily imagine how that's the case though, it's tiny and there's always a ton of it. I've seen it in ponds and videos and it sticks to everything. Maybe it's just forum parroting though!

It is easy to scoop out you are correct. I think the consternation results from the duckweed being very adapt at returning even though all visible plants are removed. I don't know much scientifically on how duckweed reproduces, but I would venture to guess spores are still prevalent in the water. In addition, I seems to be capable of spreading from tank to tank fairly easily. (mostly from keeper interaction with all the tanks, but still)

 

Yah my salvinia minima sticks to EVERYTHING!!! Duckweed is even worse tho. If you have really high surface movement for several weeks, it should kill it all.

 

Yah my salvinia minima sticks to EVERYTHING!!! Duckweed is even worse tho. If you have really high surface movement for several weeks, it should kill it all.

What types of floating plants do you recommend that wont block too much light?

 

What types of floating plants do you recommend that wont block too much light?

Honestly, I just use Hornwort now and float it. Since they are strands you can cut them to size wherever you deem necessary and are very fast growers that will outcompete algae. They are very easy to remove as well. But there is a relatively long list of floating plants that will definitely work. I guess it just comes down to preference and taste visually.

 

Honestly, I just use Hornwort now and float it. Since they are strands you can cut them to size wherever you deem necessary and are very fast growers that will outcompete algae. They are very easy to remove as well. But there is a relatively long list of floating plants that will definitely work. I guess it just comes down to preference and taste visually.

I ended up floating some water Sprite. It's growing nicely.

 

Update:

The tank has been planted. Cycling with Nilocg Thrive-S fertilizer. The plants are doing well. Java Fern, Anubias gold, Dwarf Sagittaria, Cryptocoryne lutea, Vallisneria, Water Sprite, Java moss, and some moss balls. Everything has generally behaved as expected.

As for the cycle...

Ammonia never really spiked. It hit 0.5ppm, then came down. It is now consistently at 0.

Nitrite has been somewhat pesky. Sitting at 0.25ppm for about a week.

Nitrate has been slowly building. Up to about 10ppm.

i haven't done a water change since the cycle started.

Any comments or suggestions? When can I expect the Nitrite to bottom out? Given that it is a planted tank, what is a good nitrate target? I've heard 20ppm should be a minimum so that the plants have enough nutrients in the water. Also no more than 40ppm. Does that sound right?

im operating under the assumption that I should add any Endlers until the Nitrite zeros out. Correct?

 

Picture attached

 

As for the cycle...

Ammonia never really spiked. It hit 0.5ppm, then came down. It is now consistently at 0.

Nitrite has been somewhat pesky. Sitting at 0.25ppm for about a week.

Nitrate has been slowly building. Up to about 10ppm.

i haven't done a water change since the cycle started.

Any comments or suggestions? When can I expect the Nitrite to bottom out? Given that it is a planted tank, what is a good nitrate target? I've heard 20ppm should be a minimum so that the plants have enough nutrients in the water. Also no more than 40ppm. Does that sound right?

im operating under the assumption that I should add any Endlers until the Nitrite zeros out. Correct?

 

Re: duckweed:
The first 95% is SUPER easy to remove; you just scoop it out, absolutely. It's sticky, but a little running water solves that.

The next 4% of the duckweed is a challenge, because it gets EVERYWHERE. Inside your filter, tangled in the roots of your java ferns and anubias, tangled in between the leaves of your stem plants, etc.

The final 1% is hidden. You don't THINK it exists, but trust me, it does! You'll find it eventually, sure, but can you find it faster than it reproduces?

 

As for cycling in a planted tank, especially with a very light bioload:

I'm at risk of some people disagreeing with me, but if you've got some plants in and established, you're basically going to be cycled automatically. Plants LOVE nitrogen compounds, and will hastily eat up ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate that's being produced in small quantities. If you're only looking at chili rasboras and RCS, maybe just give the plants a few weeks of a head start, then start stocking gradually.

Something, whether plants or bacteria, will eat up your nitrogen - and it doesn't really matter which it is.

 

As for cycling in a planted tank, especially with a very light bioload:

I'm at risk of some people disagreeing with me, but if you've got some plants in and established, you're basically going to be cycled automatically. Plants LOVE nitrogen compounds, and will hastily eat up ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate that's being produced in small quantities. If you're only looking at chili rasboras and RCS, maybe just give the plants a few weeks of a head start, then start stocking gradually.

Something, whether plants or bacteria, will eat up your nitrogen - and it doesn't really matter which it is.

Thanks for the reply!

I've got a lot of new growth and have been over-fertilizing for the first couple weeks, so happy with where I am at presently.

I moved away from the Chili Rasboras because my water is high pH and pretty hard. So, I'm just going to do a male Endler's tank with some neos.

I can see the Nitrite is falling (super light-purple, close to blue). So I expect to get a couple fish soon. I'll just take what is on hand at the LFS. Two at a time until I hit maybe 6 male Endler's. Should be a fun result.

Not sure when to add the shrimp. Was planning on getting a full stock of fish in the tank and really letting the tank get seasoned before adding any shrimp. Maybe 3 months in. Sound good?

 

Sounds perfect! Shrimp generally do much better in a well established tank, especially given their love for grazing on algae. Let some microscopic life build itself up over a couple months, and you'll have some happy crustaceans!

 

Hello! While researching a bit about cycling, I came across this website that said that you can cycle your tank by putting some plants in a tank and cycle it. The website said that once the plants are growing, they are successfully absorbing nitrate and you can start adding fish?

I don't know if I'm allowed to say the name of this website, but it is written by someone who is well known on youtube and *ahem* has a large tiger barb tank and an MBU puffer and owns a fish store *ahem* I hope you know who I'm talking about.

Anyways, is this true? In other words if I get a bunch of guppy grass and dump in the tank can I add fish once it starts growing?

Thanks to anybody who replies!!

Btw quick off-on topic question. If I get a TON of guppy grass from someone who has an established tank, will there be enough bacteria on the plants to the point I don't need to cycle? If so don't worry I won't cram it with fish. Maybe a trio of guppies to start

 

Yes Cory is correct. Plants use Ammonia and Nitrate. Also since plants are almost always covered in beneficial bacteria themselves they help seed your tank. You can add your plants and water and start fertilizing immediately and add a few hardy fish with at least 2 bunches of some stem plant and you're good to go. Usually Nitrogen is one of the first things that gets depleted as its one of the 3 macros plants want so you dont really have to worry too much. You'll probably notice with 2 bunches of stem plants they eat all the ammonia and nitrates in the water (as long as they have the correct light/co2) and you can start to add even more fish. Wisteria is good for this as its easy to grow. Hornwort is another.

On your off-topic question - yep, almost everything in an aquarium will become covered in the beneficial bacteria so a ton of grass works. Just recommend of course starting with a lighter load and testing your readings after a few days to see if need to scale back and wait for more bacteria to grow or if you can add more.

 

Yes, I did mine that way, load of plants, fertilizer and left for about a month before adding fish, the plants themselves probably come with bb and definitely came with snails that probably produce enough ammonia to get things going in the filter. Once the plants are growing well and producing new leaves they are definitely using all the nitrogen compounds. I believe floating plants are particularly good and mine multiplied like crazy. I did actually use stability for the first week as was initially going to do the ammonia method, but it probably wasn’t necessary. I just added fishes very gradually after about a month and not had any problem, consistently have low nitrates even with more fish added now. Never had ammonia or nitrites.

 

Thanks!

What fertilizers do you recommend? My tank is bare-bottom and will only have guppy grass.

 

Thanks!

What fertilizers do you recommend? My tank is bare-bottom and will only have guppy grass.

Liquid, Nilocg ThriveC is the best option IMO but also Easy Green is popular.

Small detail - plants technically compete with the bacteria for ammonia. Not an issue because there should be enough to go around, but plants do not cycle in the microbe/filter sense (besides perhaps introducing microbes), they do in absorbing ammonia

 

I use azoo plant premium, but I think its similar to those Mak mentions above, ie a combination of macro and micronutrients, I use the full dose once a week and half dose mid week. The plants are doing well, I do have some fluorite mixed with river sand as substrate though.