5 Gallon Tank Cycle stalled? Nitrites not decreasing , day 25

Hi All,
I am very new to the hobby and this is my first time cycling a tank to ensure I have everytging ready before I bring my fish in. I am on day 25 and not sure if I just need to continue doing what I am doing or I am missing something... hence reaching out to you experts
I have answered all questions from the template below and more details on the bottom.

Thank you for taking the time to read and help me out.

Are you doing a fish in cycle, fishless cycle or was your tank cycled and you had a sudden ammonia or nitrite spike?: Fishless cycle

Tank
What is the water volume of the tank?: 5 gallon
What type of water are you using in your tank? (tap, well, RO/DI, other): tap water - treated with water conditioner
When did you start cycling the tank?: 21-May
What type of filtration are you running on this tank? (sponge, HOB, canister, other): Fluval chi foam/filter combo
If canister or HOB list all the media you are running in it. (manufactured cartridges, sponge, etc.):
Do you have good water agitation/surface movement?: Yes
What is the water temperature?: 82F

Products used while cycling
If this is a fishless cycle what ammonia source are you using? (fish food, Dr Tim’s ammonia, other): Fritz fishless fuel
If adding liquid ammonia how often do you dose ammonia in your tank and in what quantity? (1ppm, 2ppm etc.): daily, 1ppm
If using fish food as your ammonia source how much are you adding and how often?: No
Are you using a dechlorinater and if so, which one?: Fluval water conditioner (about to run out, will use Prime after)
Are you using bottled bacteria and if so, which one?: No
Did you add seeded media from a previously cycled tank?: No
What other products/chemicals are you using? (list them all): No

Testing and cycling process
What was your knowledge of the nitrogen cycle before beginning to cycle your tank? (none, beginner, intermediate (please explain), advanced): beginner
What do you use to test the water? (API liquid, test strips, other): API master test kit
Did you test your tap water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH, if so post the results below?: Yes
Have you done any water changes and if so, when?: Yes, 2 times.
How much water did you change?: day 16 - 25% to increase pH, day 20 - 50% to increase pH and also added 1/2 tsp baking soda
Did you vacuum the substrate?: No
Did you clean your filter, filter media, decorations and/or glass?: No
If using disposable cartridges have you replaced one recently?: N/A


*Parameters - Very Important
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Tank water:
Ammonia: 0 after 24 hrs (I have not tested before 24 hrs)
Nitrite: 2-5 range starting day 8. (more detail in description below)
Nitrate: 5
pH: 8 (after baking soda on day 20, before that kept dropping down to 6)

Tap water:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: 7.4

Details:
I have a 5 gallon Fluval Chi tank with heater and also 2 live plants (java fern). I started by cycle by dosing the tank to 4ppm liquid ammonia. Day 8 - nitrites started appearing as expected and ammonia dropped to 2ppm. Since then, I daily dose the ammonia back up to the 3ppm range, on testing after 24 hours, ammonia reduces, but nitrites were constantly in the 2-5 range.
Day 11 - ammonia started dropping to 0 after 24 hours but nitrites still at the same level (not going down or getting darker).
Day 15 - I checked my pH based on research of a stalled cycle and it was at 6. I did a 25% water change and it got up to 7. kept dosing daily to 1ppm now to not produce a lot of nitrites.
day 20 - pH dropped to 6 again. did 50% water change and added 1/2 tsp pf baking soda. pH has been at 8 since then. continue dosing to 1ppm and ammonia is 0 the next day with no change in nitrite level.

Nitrates have shown up at 5ppm since day 9 so I am not sure if they are just high nitrites showing up as nitrites.

Day 22 (Friday am)- I had to be out for the weekend, I dosed the ammonia back up to 1ppm and left
Day 24 (Sunday pm) - came back home and tested - Ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 0. I dosed to 1ppm again tested after an hour, ammonia was at 1ppm and nitrites at .25ppm
Day 25 (today) - ammonia 0, nitrites at .5, nitrate 5.

so nitrites still continue to rise. is this expected? I know the cycle can take upto 2 months to complete, but I wanted to make sure I am not missing anything or suggestions to make it faster? what else I should watch out for? any mistakes you can point out?

Thank you!

 

As long as you are keeping the pH up and dosing ammonia still I would say you are just on course and have a pretty good grasp on what you are doing! One day the Nitrites will just be gone. Dose ammonia a few days to see if it clears in 24 hours and you will be good.

And Welcome to Fishlore!

 

Sounds like you're on the home stretch! Just keep pushing forward, and you'll have some happy fish in no time.

 

As long as you are keeping the pH up and dosing ammonia still I would say you are just on course and have a pretty good grasp on what you are doing! One day the Nitrites will just be gone. Dose ammonia a few days to see if it clears in 24 hours and you will be good.

And Welcome to Fishlore!

Thank you for the quick reply and warm welcome. is dosing to 1ppm daily teh right amount of should I be dosing more? I plan to keep just 1 betta fish in there for now (post cycle completion) until I understand fish keeping more. is that dosage enough to build up the required bacteria colony to sustain the betta's bioload?

Also - should I do a water change once the nitrites are back up to the 2-5 mark (which I am assuming will be in my test tomorrow) to bring them to a readable level or leave it as is until nitrates start inceasing/ nitrites do down naturally.

thank you!

 

Thank you for the quick reply and warm welcome. is dosing to 1ppm daily teh right amount of should I be dosing more? I plan to keep just 1 betta fish in there for now (post cycle completion) until I understand fish keeping more. is that dosage enough to build up the required bacteria colony to sustain the betta's bioload?

Also - should I do a water change once the nitrites are back up to the 2-5 mark (which I am assuming will be in my test tomorrow) to bring them to a readable level or leave it as is until nitrates start inceasing/ nitrites do down naturally.

thank you!

1 ppm should be fine for 1 betta. I would only change water if the Nitrites get to the 5ppm level range.

Also I want to add that using something like crushed coral instead of baking soda may be a better more natural option to keep the pH stable. It raises the KH that stabilizes the pH so that it does not swing as wildly on you. Baking soda is really easy to swing water too much too fast.

 

Welcome to Fishlore

I agree with StarGirl and ChrissFishes01 You are on the final leg of this journey and will soon step past the finish line.

 

mattgirl StarGirl ChrissFishes01 Looks like you guys have a magic wand or something... I woke up to zero nitrites today.
the ph was a bit raised at 8.2but nitrates were still at a 5. From what I have read, these should rise to the point I need a 75% water change before I get the fish in.. true? I have dosed back up to 1ppm again and will see if this repeats tomorrow.

does this indicate I am done? If this repeats consistently, what should be my final steps before I get the fish in?

 

Yup if it repeats you are done. Do a big water change and add your fish slowly. You want your bacteria to be able to keep up. See and you thought you needed us....

 

Yup if it repeats you are done. Do a big water change and add your fish slowly. You want your bacteria to be able to keep up. See and you thought you needed us....

awesome! couple follow-up questions when you have a few minutes:

1. why is a big water change needed if the nitrate levels stay below 40?
2. I raised the temp to 82 to enhance the cycle, should I bring it down to 77-78 (for Betta) and do final rounds of cycle testing before adding fish?
3. My heater has developed a film on it and also the hiding rock has algae on it during cycling. should I clean up before adding fish? would it mess with the cycle? what's the best approach? (pic attached)
4. What medicines should I keep on hand to be able to act quickly in case of sick fish? I read through the sick fish article but was a bit overwhelming. can you recommend must haves?
5. should I put an IAL in there to start with?

thanks so much!

 

1- Water changes do more than remove nitrates. They replace minerals and other things the fish and plants need. I change 50% every week, make sure the temp matches the tank. Weekly water changes will also help a bunch in not needing #4
2- I would bring it down to 78-79 yes. I would do a final round of tests.
3- The film is biofilm it wont hurt anything. Everything in the tank will have this on it. I would leave it for now since you are just finishing the cycle. The algae looks like maybe your light is on too long. It does not need to be removed unless you want to.
4- To start I would just have aquarium salt and epsom salt on hand. Some keep Prazipro (parasites) and IckX.
5- I would use the IAL if you like the colored water, otherwise you could save it for if he seems stressed or something.

Also if those are Java ferns they should not be planted.

 

1- Water changes do more than remove nitrates. They replace minerals and other things the fish and plants need. I change 50% every week, make sure the temp matches the tank. Weekly water changes will also help a bunch in not needing #4
2- I would bring it down to 78-79 yes. I would do a final round of tests.
3- The film is biofilm it wont hurt anything. Everything in the tank will have this on it. I would leave it for now since you are just finishing the cycle. The algae looks like maybe your light is on too long. It does not need to be removed unless you want to.
4- To start I would just have aquarium salt and epsom salt on hand. Some keep Prazipro (parasites) and IckX.
5- I would use the IAL if you like the colored water, otherwise you could save it for if he seems stressed or something.

Also if those are Java ferns they should not be planted.

Thank you. and yes, Read about the Java ferms and have been meaning to change that but they have been thriving so far.. so many baby fren growing on the existing leaves. so i did not disturb that.. lol

I will continue to monitor the cycle next few days and report back if anything seems off

 

FYI, you really need to shake the second bottle of the API Nitrate test solution. If you don't, you could get inaccurate results. From experience.

 

FYI, you really need to shake the second bottle of the API Nitrate test solution. If you don't, you could get inaccurate results. From experience.

Yeah, I have been doing that.. good reminder though

 

StarGirl - results from this morning attached.
Ammonia and nitrite dropped to zero BUT nitrates still at the 5 mark. Could it be a faulty kit?

also - pH dropped to 7.4 today. I am worries about these pH drops with the fish in it. When I tested last,KH of tap water is barely there (turns yellow on first drop) which I am guessing is the culprit here.

you suggested crushed coral in a previous response. What is the best way to use it and how much to maintain pH.

thanks!

 

What is your tap pH?

The crushed coral (not the sand kind) You just put in a media bag or nylon, and put it in your filter. If there is no room in your filter you can just sprinkle it in the substrate. Start with a small handful and go from there. It is different in everyones water because it dissolves different. You cant put in too much because it will only buffer to a certain level and stop. I dont know what that number is either.

 

What is your tap pH?

The crushed coral (not the sand kind) You just put in a media bag or nylon, and put it in your filter. If there is no room in your filter you can just sprinkle it in the substrate. Start with a small handful and go from there. It is different in everyones water because it dissolves different. You cant put in too much because it will only buffer to a certain level and stop. I dont know what that number is either.

Tap water is around 7.2/7.4 last I checked. I can validate again today. But it was dropping down to 6 pretty quickly during the cycle. PWC would bring it back to 7.. then it would drop down to 6 in a couple days until I added baking soda. it has been 9 days since I added baking soda, and the first time it has dropped.. from 8.2 yest to 7.4 today. seems like a steep change.

my filter does not have space, it's the Fluval Chi build in filter. will open it and see if I can slide it between the foam and filter pads.

 

I just looked at those. Huh yeah I guess just in the substrate is about all you can do if none fits in the filter. I havent looked at those, very interesting. Is it like a waterfall?

 

Yeah - I love the modern look and clean lines on this tank and the waterfall is soothing... it does come with a tank lid too which I have taken off to speed the cycle (evaporation is crazy without the lid though)
U think I can put the coral in the space up top of the waterfall? (See pics - the small waterfall lid is removable as well and has space inside) i have seen people put decorative pebbles etc in that space.

 

I bet you could with the lid thing. It would probably just wash over the side without it though. It does work better with flow going over it. The only thing Im wondering if it would be enough up top? mattgirl what do you think on the amount?

 

I bet you could with the lid thing. It would probably just wash over the side without it though. It does work better with flow going over it. The only thing Im wondering if it would be enough up top? mattgirl what do you think on the amount?

With this just being a 5 gallon tank a good sized handful (about 1/2 cup) of crushed coral should hold the pH up where it needs to be. It does work more efficiently if it is situated where water is running over and through it. If some in a media bag will fit on top of that filter it might work.

This is a very unusual filter. Is it just a foam block? or is it foam inside a clear plastic housing? Strange that so much of it is above the water line. I've never seen one like this.

 

With this just being a 5 gallon tank a good sized handful (about 1/2 cup) of crushed coral should hold the pH up where it needs to be. It does work more efficiently if it is situated where water is running over and through it. If some in a media bag will fit on top of that filter it might work.

This is a very unusual filter. Is it just a foam block? or is it foam inside a clear plastic housing? Strange that so much of it is above the water line. I've never seen one like this.

Alright - i will try to place the coral up there in a media bag and see if that works.

the filter pads are actually on the bottom side where the led light is...(see pics) the cube rotates to access the filter housing and inside has a foam pad and filter pad.

 

The CC should stabilize your pH and should help this cycle finish up.

 

Hi there mattgirl StarGirl !
I am still waiting on the crushed coral delivery, but wanted to check my nitrate theory with you in the meantime..

I am still at the same place, 1ppm of ammonia goes down to 0 after 24 hrs and so does nitrite. Nitrate still shows 5 after 24 hrs.
yesterday, I took a mid-day reading to see how the cycle was progressing. (6-7 hrs after dosing to 1ppm). the ammonia was at .5, nitrite .25 and the nitrate reading was definitely a brighter orange.. a 10.
could it be that my live plants are using up the nitrates more than they are being generated hence the reading drops to 5 after 24 hours?

should I consider myself cycled at this point since the conversion is definitely happening or wait until I see a higher nitrate reading?

I am hoping once I test the crushed coral is working fine to raise and maintain the pH for a couple days, I do my big water change and get the fish in. also, do I dose again after big water change to see if the cycle still exists or just get the fish in?

thanks so much!

 

I think you may be right. As long as the ammonia you add goes down to zero within 24 hours and has processed all the way through to nitrates meaning you also see zero nitrites then I have to think this cycle is complete. The 2 important numbers are ammonia and nitrites. You want to see both of them at a constant zero. Seeing nitrate, any nitrate is simply a sign that you have grown both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria. Seeing zero ammonia or nitrites after adding ammonia simply means you have grown ENOUGH bacteria to process the ammonia through to nitrates which in turn means your cycle is complete

Have you done any water changes on this tank within the past week? If not then it is time to change out no less than half the water so your water pet starts out with fresh water. In this case it isn't to get the nitrates down because they are already low. It is to replenish the minerals that are used up over time.

As long as you temp match and add your water conditioner if needed before pouring the fresh water in the tank you are not going to hurt your cycle. The bacteria is now growing on everything in this tank but right now the majority of it is going to be on your filter media. Don't let it dry out while doing the water change. If possible keep it running while doing the water change.

Don't clean anything in the tank. Simply remove and replace water. Give the bacteria lots of time to get firmly established.

 

I think you may be right. As long as the ammonia you add goes down to zero within 24 hours and has processed all the way through to nitrates meaning you also see zero nitrites then I have to think this cycle is complete. The 2 important numbers are ammonia and nitrites. You want to see both of them at a constant zero. Seeing nitrate, any nitrate is simply a sign that you have grown both ammonia and nitrite eating bacteria. Seeing zero ammonia or nitrites after adding ammonia simply means you have grown ENOUGH bacteria to process the ammonia through to nitrates which in turn means your cycle is complete

Have you done any water changes on this tank within the past week? If not then it is time to change out no less than half the water so your water pet starts out with fresh water. In this case it isn't to get the nitrates down because they are already low. It is to replenish the minerals that are used up over time.

As long as you temp match and add your water conditioner if needed before pouring the fresh water in the tank you are not going to hurt your cycle. The bacteria is now growing on everything in this tank but right now the majority of it is going to be on your filter media. Don't let it dry out while doing the water change. If possible keep it running while doing the water change.

Don't clean anything in the tank. Simply remove and replace water. Give the bacteria lots of time to get firmly established.

thank you for the detailed response. I will get to the big water change this weekend. super excited for the milestone. lol.
ok to keep the filter in the bucket with the water taken out form the tank while I get the new water in? this should keep it wet throughout.

any tips to make sure I don't bring a sick fish home? any signs that are obvious? Local Petco/Smart is my only option at this time. Looking to stock with a single Betta fish to start with. (I will look for threads as well on the forum to learn more).

thanks again!

 

thank you for the detailed response. I will get to the big water change this weekend. super excited for the milestone. lol.

You are so very welcome

ok to keep the filter in the bucket with the water taken out form the tank while I get the new water in? this should keep it wet throughout.

That should work just fine

any tips to make sure I don't bring a sick fish home? any signs that are obvious? Local Petco/Smart is my only option at this time. Looking to stock with a single Betta fish to start with. (I will look for threads as well on the forum to learn more).

thanks again!

Just try to pick one that looks alert and active. Check to make sure there are no tiny while specks of something that looks like grains of salt on the fish. That would be ich. If you see one that look less than healthy don't feel sorry for it and hope to bring it home and heal it. In most cases you are just bringing home heartbreak.

If you see fin damage, fin rot may have set in. Pass on that one. Lots of times fin damage can be caused by the conditions they have been kept in and often if it is simple damage the fin will heal but you are taking a chance that it is more than just a bit of damage and could be something more serious. You will have to use your own judgement on that. Split fins will often heal. fin rot is much more serious.

 

I got my current Female betta at Petsmart. We have a pretty good one though.

 

I got my current Female betta at Petsmart. We have a pretty good one though.

So I got this little guy today! Was the most heathy looking of the lot. So excited! I plan to move him in soon after acclimating. These are the steps I plan to follow... anything missing?

- float cup on top of tank for 15 mins
- then add some tank water to the cup. (How much? Since there is not enough space in there to begin with). Leave for another 15-20 mins and repeat with more tank water
- after 15 mins, move the fish to the tank using a fish net. Don’t put cup water in tank. This is the part I am so nervous about. I fear I am not going to do this properly and end up damaging his fins. Any videos/tricks to do this right? Could not find one on YouTube.

also, do i add stress guard to my tank to help with the move stress? And do I do that with every water change along with prime to keep him from infection or just use when a disease sets in? (Hoping never)

 

This is where a turkey baster comes in handy. Use it to add water to the cup. Each time you add some also take some out and discard it. Add and remove a few mls each time. By the time your little guy is acclimated the water in the cup is going to be almost all tank water so just tip the cup over and let the little guy swim out. No need to net him this way.

 

He should just be fine. I don't like adding extra things to my water unless needed.

 

oops, I forgot to address the question about adding stress coat. I agree with StarGirl I wouldn't add it. I don't think it would hurt anything but in my humble opinion the fewer things we add the better it is for our water pets.

 

oops, I forgot to address the question about adding stress coat. I agree with StarGirl I wouldn't add it. I don't think it would hurt anything but in my humble opinion the fewer things we add the better it is for our water pets.

Thank you!

He should just be fine. I don't like adding extra things to my water unless needed.

Thank you. Makes sense

This is where a turkey baster comes in handy. Use it to add water to the cup. Each time you add some also take some out and discard it. Add and remove a few mls each time. By the time your little guy is acclimated the water in the cup is going to be almost all tank water so just tip the cup over and let the little guy swim out. No need to net him this way.

This is genius! So glad I asked. You guys have been sooooo helpful. I cannot be more thankful. I don’t have a turkey baster on hand, but have a few new baby medicine syringes (unused ofcourse). Guess I could use them as well. Take 5 ml at a time is ok or less/more?

 

Thank you!

Thank you. Makes sense

This is genius! So glad I asked. You guys have been sooooo helpful. I cannot be more thankful. I don’t have a turkey baster on hand, but have a few new baby medicine syringes (unused ofcourse). Guess I could use them as well. Take 5 ml at a time is ok or less/more?

That should work perfectly

 

Hey, I've had a Fluval Chi running for almost a year and here's my experience with these cool little cubes. The filter is not very good but for one Betta, probably adequate. I too have fluctuations in my ph until I put a small amount of crushed coral into my little zoo-med canister. I wanted more plants so the light that is attached to the filter was not cutting it. I put in cheapo Asta led which is much much better. My plants are now thriving even though I did have a bout with BBA a while back. I added some floating plants and everthing is good now on the algae front. The lights are weak and were constantly covered in algae which made everything look greenish. I also put a solid clear acrylic top on it just in case someone wants to jump!! All in all, a great little tank with some mods can be made better. For one betta it's probably fine. If you want to add shrimp, you'd probably be better upgrading the filtration.

 

That should work perfectly

How many ml at a time?... i just started with 5ml and waiting 15 mins after each change. With this it’s going to be a looong wait. Totally willing to do it if that’s the pace it needs to be at.

testing the Petco water in the break time (should I admit I am addicted to testing during this whole cycling journey ).

Hey, I've had a Fluval Chi running for almost a year and here's my experience with these cool little cubes. The filter is not very good but for one Betta, probably adequate. I too have fluctuations in my ph until I put a small amount of crushed coral into my little zoo-med canister. I wanted more plants so the light that is attached to the filter was not cutting it. I put in cheapo Asta led which is much much better. My plants are now thriving even though I did have a bout with BBA a while back. I added some floating plants and everthing is good now on the algae front. The lights are weak and were constantly covered in algae which made everything look greenish. I also put a solid clear acrylic top on it just in case someone wants to jump!! All in all, a great little tank with some mods can be made better. For one betta it's probably fine. If you want to add shrimp, you'd probably be better upgrading the filtration.

Awesome info. Will def keep in mind if and when I decide to add more stock. Thank you.

 

I guess it may have helped with some links to what I was writing about via lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Asta-20-Dimmable-Freshwater/dp/B07236CXBQ

Amazon.com : Zoo Med Turtle Clean 15 External Canister Filter : Aquarium Filters : Pet Supplies

The filter is probably overkill but it has kept this little tank stable for almost a year. I did use biohome ultimate media and a bit of Seachen Matrix (again, overkill but it works and don't need that much for such a small filter. I also have a purigen pad in there.......it's pretty stuffed.

 

How many ml at a time?... i just started with 5ml and waiting 15 mins after each change. With this it’s going to be a looong wait. Totally willing to do it if that’s the pace it needs to be at.

testing the Petco water in the break time (should I admit I am addicted to testing during this whole cycling journey ).

Awesome info. Will def keep in mind if and when I decide to add more stock. Thank you.

Sorry, I am kinda late in answering. You are probably finished by now. I would have recommended 5 mls every 5 minutes or so. I would have added the 5mls slowly but could removed the 5ml quicker.

 

I have a small suggestion for the crushed coral location if the space atop the waterfall doesn't work out in the end.

This small sponge filter is what I use in my shrimp tank, I have two of them running as I have no other filters for it. They're the perfect size for 5 gallon tanks and there is this little compartment with small pebbles that you can open up and change out if you wish. You can use this to put the crushed coral in if the waterfall doesn't work.

Amazon: Aquatop Aquatic Supplies Classic Aqua Flow Sponge Aquarium Filter Up To 10 Gal CAF-10

With a small air pump and control valve, you can get just the right amount of flow that won't bother your betta.

Anywho, your betta is so pretty and I can't wait to see what he looks like once he colors up!

 

I have a small suggestion for the crushed coral location if the space atop the waterfall doesn't work out in the end.

This small sponge filter is what I use in my shrimp tank, I have two of them running as I have no other filters for it. They're the perfect size for 5 gallon tanks and there is this little compartment with small pebbles that you can open up and change out if you wish. You can use this to put the crushed coral in if the waterfall doesn't work.

Amazon: Aquatop Aquatic Supplies Classic Aqua Flow Sponge Aquarium Filter Up To 10 Gal CAF-10

With a small air pump and control valve, you can get just the right amount of flow that won't bother your betta.

Anywho, your betta is so pretty and I can't wait to see what he looks like once he colors up!

Thank you, will def consider if the current set up
Doesn’t work. I am excited to see him clolor up as well!

Sorry, I am kinda late in answering. You are probably finished by now. I would have recommended 5 mls every 5 minutes or so. I would have added the 5mls slowly but could removed the 5ml quicker.

No problem at all. It went fine (I think). I am such an anxious fish momma. He slept on the bottom lat night and has been pretty active since 6am today. We just fed him 3-4 pallets which he ate. I also noticed this bulge on his body today. Is this normal of sign of swim bladder? Please tell him it’s nothing to worry about

 

Thank you, will def consider if the current set up
Doesn’t work. I am excited to see him clolor up as well!

No problem at all. It went fine (I think). I am such an anxious fish momma. He slept on the bottom lat night and has been pretty active since 6am today. We just fed him 3-4 pallets which he ate. I also noticed this bulge on his body today. Is this normal of sign of swim bladder? Please tell him it’s nothing to worry about

I know we are going to see the slightest change and will imagine all kinds of things. Some folks see things, freak out and start medicating. Almost everything can be prevented by simply keeping their water fresh and clean.

I will admit some fish are not a healthy as they should be when we get them. Their health depends on how well they were taken care of before they came to live with us. Hopefully your beautiful little guy is healthy.

It is a good sign that he is already accepting food. I am sure he was getting hungry since I don't know if they get fed while in those little cups they are kept in. Now that he has had a big meal I would probably feed him several times a day but just one bite of food each time. Give him time between feeding to digest the previous bite.

I've never fed Betta pellets so don't know how big they are. Put one in some water and see how much it swells after soaking. The size it swells up to is what happens once he eats them. If they swell quite a bit imagine what is happening inside your little guy if he eats several of them all at the same time. If they don't swell up and actually break apart quickly then feeding more than one at a time shouldn't cause problems. This is just something I would have to know.

All this to say, the bulge may be food that hasn't broken down yet.