Custom Plywood Tall Aquarium

Hey Everyone,

I've been slowly working on building my very first and custom aquarium over the last 10 months, and figured I would post my progress thus far. I had a lot of fun doing it, and I'm almost ready to stock it! Thanks for looking and enjoy!

 

It is roughly 85 gallons, and I plan to stock some Discus and Cardinal Tetras. Not sure on a clean up crew yet. Might get some top dwellers depending on how it looks with the previously mentioned stock.

 

That's so cool! I love how the wooden frame looks and the scape is really pretty

 

Thanks! It was a lot of work, and quite a learning curve since I'm new to the hobby. Been taking my time to get it done right. I'm proud of the results. I hope that it helps inspire more to do the same.

 

What did you use as the sealant

 

I used Pond Shield for the waterproofing, 100% silicone for the panels and seams. Seems like that stuff is the way to go with plywood tanks.

 

I used Pond Shield for the waterproofing, 100% silicone for the panels and seams. Seems like that stuff is the way to go with plywood tanks.

Yeah I have used pond shield, good stuff. Most of my plywood aquariums I used a 2 part marine epoxy paint. Same stuff we use in the navy. I'm testing a new idea this weekend with plastidip.

 

I'm kind of a fiberglassing freak so I'd probably fiberglass it, but I totally think your tank is fantastic.

 

Thanks. I considered using other waterproofing agents, but after watching Joey The DIY King's video compared to other products used, I went with the least amount of mess factor. The Pond Shield just goes on so easily!

Update: after the 1st night of cycling, I noticed a pinhole leak at the bottom of the side glass panel. Drained the tank, and plan to put a thick bead of silicone on the outside edge, which I probably should have done in the first place...

 

Very well done!

 

Thanks. I considered using other waterproofing agents, but after watching Joey The DIY King's video compared to other products used, I went with the least amount of mess factor. The Pond Shield just goes on so easily!

Update: after the 1st night of cycling, I noticed a pinhole leak at the bottom of the side glass panel. Drained the tank, and plan to put a thick bead of silicone on the outside edge, which I probably should have done in the first place...

You're siliconing it for the first time, right? Just making sure, because (you probably know) but you can't patch silicone with silicone. But if this is a new seam you're sealing, then that should do the trick. Keep us updated!

 

Yes, it is the 1st silicone bead that I put on the outside edge of the glass panel and frame.

 

Wait wait wait wait wait wait...
This is all new to me. Are we saying this is basically a plywood box, with the inside smeared with some waterproof goo, that happens to have a couple panes of glass sealed in place for visibility?
You can do that?
Wow, learning all the time.
P.S. I see a sump down below, is that fed via overflow into the large cutout at back left? Over the edge and down the back, or bulkhead at bottom of the cutout?

 

Yup, it's cabinet grade plywood box, smeared with waterproofing and siliconed glass viewing panels! Apparently it works very well and lasts just as long if not longer than a typical aquarium. Much MUCH cheaper too! My setup, custom built to fit my book nook in my living room cost about $800 for everything. That's nearly half what a similar setup would cost from a manufacturer. Just took time, lots of research, and patience.

Yes, the back-left cutout is a bulkhead where my two durso standpipe overflows, return line, and electrical for lighting is housed. There is an exposed cutout on the left that faces the wall (out of sight) that allows for easy access to the plumbing. I also have a top access panel on that bulkhead that I didn't plan on having but am really glad I did for reasons of getting my hands and tools in there when necessary.

Here's a pic of the sump/durso drains that come through the tank and the stand. Oh yeah, they are two separate pieces of "furniture" that I built to look like one solid unit.

 

You can do that?

A well-built plywood box with pond sealer on it. I would fiberglass the inside. This is how wooden boats are made. And then get your glass or acrylic (or plexi) and caulk it on. There are some wood aquarium builds on youtube. Usually, they are the larger tanks because it starts to be really cost effective after about 100 gallons. Check out some of the huge tanks that "DYI fishkeeping" has done. I think the guy who owns the channel is named Joey. He has arowanas and fresh water stingrays in one wooden tank.

The glass you use needs to be rated to the size of the tank. Window glass is not acceptable. Expect to pay $100 or so for the right glass. There is a lot of water pressure pushing on the glass, and that could mean it would break if it is too thin. Acrylic can be lighter, but it still costs money.

I like the wooden aquariums because they can be in any shape you want, they can have round windows and other things.

 

Agreed. I used Kevlar cloth and epoxy on every seam/joint where plywood met plywood. Then I used the Pond Shield. My glass panels are 3/4" Starfire, the most expensive component to the aquarium. Then the Pond Shield and plywood were the next major costs. I made the sump filter and lights myself to save a few hundred dollars alone. The DIY handbook from Joey was a huge wealth of information for me during this project.

 

A well-built plywood box with pond sealer on it. I would fiberglass the inside. This is how wooden boats are made. And then get your glass or acrylic (or plexi) and caulk it on. There are some wood aquarium builds on youtube. Usually, they are the larger tanks because it starts to be really cost effective after about 100 gallons. Check out some of the huge tanks that "DYI fishkeeping" has done. I think the guy who owns the channel is named Joey. He has arowanas and fresh water stingrays in one wooden tank.

The glass you use needs to be rated to the size of the tank. Window glass is not acceptable. Expect to pay $100 or so for the right glass. There is a lot of water pressure pushing on the glass, and that could mean it would break if it is too thin. Acrylic can be lighter, but it still costs money.

I like the wooden aquariums because they can be in any shape you want, they can have round windows and other things.

His arrowanas and stingrays are in a plexiglass and concrete 2000 gallon. The arrowana was in a 375 gallon plywood tank for awhile though. The ones I have built are plywood and acrylic and plywood and glass. One is a 350 and I made 2 500s. The sealer is crucially important. With both epoxy and pond shield the fiberglass in the edges is critical.

 

Wow! That's quite an impressive build! My hat's off to you! Last time I've seen anyone build something from wood and use epoxy/pond shield with fiberglass it was a boat as Chief stated.

 

Putting silicone on the outside edge of the glass panel did the trick with regards to the pinhole leak I had last night. So far, 8hr and no more puddles!

 

The end result is fantastic!

 

I rearranged the sump and added a swing check valve directly above the pump. Less turns/bends in the tubing should offset the back pressure created by the addition of the valve. I was uncomfortable with how full the sump would get in a power outage, and if a unexpected siphoning effect would cause flooding. No more worries now!

I also insulated the drain pipes and created mufflers for the strainers by cutting a 4" PVC end cap in half and siliconed them over each strainer just like a durso in an overflow box. Now I only hear a faint trickle instead of slurping and gurgling.

Very happy with the progress! Half way through the nitrogen cycle.

 

Love it, thanks for the update. This thing is really coming together nice!

 

Thanks for the kind words, advice, and support! This is my first tank since I was a preteen, and I'm happy with the success thus far. All due to the shared information on forums, DIY handbook, and YouTube videos. Will post updates as they come along. Thanks again!

 

I rearranged the sump and added a swing check valve directly above the pump. Less turns/bends in the tubing should offset the back pressure created by the addition of the valve. I was uncomfortable with how full the sump would get in a power outage, and if a unexpected siphoning effect would cause flooding. No more worries now!

I also insulated the drain pipes and created mufflers for the strainers by cutting a 4" PVC end cap in half and siliconed them over each strainer just like a durso in an overflow box. Now I only hear a faint trickle instead of slurping and gurgling.

Very happy with the progress! Half way through the nitrogen cycle.

So if you have your overflow set up correctly it will not siphon at all. Proper overflow design means you don't need a check valve. If you have a check valve in the system it will just be a sludge trap. The onlynpart of the system you should have a check valve is the return line.

 

My overflow/drains are working properly.

It is my return line in which I installed the check valve (see picture attached in last update) directly above the pump.

In my first series of pictures, you can see that my return port with the dual LocLine nozzle is a bit lower than the drains/strainers. For optimal circulation of my tall aquarium, they are positioned in a way that drains/siphons more than I'd like back through the return line, back through the pump and into the sump during a "tested power outage." It doesn't overflow/flood the sump, but just too close for comfort. Savvy?

I probably could have done things a little differently in the beginning build, but it has been minimal adjustments thus far to get good results.

 

It’s worth it for the peace of mind imo

 

I agree. If the valve gets gunked up and needs replaced at some point, I can simply swap it out during a water change with a new one for only $25. Even if I only get 6 months out of it, that check valve is worth $25 of my peace of mind.

 

My overflow/drains are working properly.

It is my return line in which I installed the check valve (see picture attached in last update) directly above the pump.

In my first series of pictures, you can see that my return port with the dual LocLine nozzle is a bit lower than the drains/strainers. For optimal circulation of my tall aquarium, they are positioned in a way that drains/siphons more than I'd like back through the return line, back through the pump and into the sump during a "tested power outage." It doesn't overflow/flood the sump, but just too close for comfort. Savvy?

I probably could have done things a little differently in the beginning build, but it has been minimal adjustments thus far to get good results.

Yes one of my degrees is in mechanical engineering and I am a nuclear machinist mate by trade. You can alleviate that by elevating your spray bar so it is not submerged. Savvy?

 

Chief,

My intention was not to discredit your criticism in any way. On contrary, it has made me think and research every step along the way, and I've been grateful for that. Truly, thanks!

While it is hard to read the tone in a posting, I get the sense that you're turning this into a "thing" by stating your credentials and answering me in return with "savvy?" which seemed dismissive in your last reply. I can appreciate constructive criticism, but it can definitely go further with a compliment here or there (which I don't need, but you have yet to offer one). If I've misread, apologies.

Getting back on track, I will definitely consider your advice in raising the spraybar/return nozzle if this continues to be an issue. The 20 gallon sump actively holds about 5 gallon of water at all times. When the power goes out, about another 5 gallon is added via the dual drains. Before the check valve was installed on the return line, another 7-9g would drain back into the sump. So it was getting really close to full capacity, hence why I installed the check valve. We'll see how it goes. To be continued...

Thanks again!

 

Chief,

My intention was not to discredit your criticism in any way. On contrary, it has made me think and research every step along the way, and I've been grateful for that. Truly, thanks!

While it is hard to read the tone in a posting, I get the sense that you're turning this into a "thing" by stating your credentials and answering me in return with "savvy?" which seemed dismissive in your last reply. I can appreciate constructive criticism, but it can definitely go further with a compliment here or there (which I don't need, but you have yet to offer one). If I've misread, apologies.

Getting back on track, I will definitely consider your advice in raising the spraybar/return nozzle if this continues to be an issue. The 20 gallon sump actively holds about 5 gallon of water at all times. When the power goes out, about another 5 gallon is added via the dual drains. Before the check valve was installed on the return line, another 7-9g would drain back into the sump. So it was getting really close to full capacity, hence why I installed the check valve. We'll see how it goes. To be continued...

Thanks again!

Dude I wasn't goin that way at all. Tone on here is tough to convey. Its good that you are doing alit of research.

 

No worries... All good!

While my $50 DIY LED lights are getting the job done, I'm inclined to get a light that penetrates the tank a bit deeper, as well as not augment the appearance of my future Discus. Something else I need to look into...

I'm looking to add a custom 3D background around Xmas as well.