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- #1
It is important to be aware of the phases of the ICH life cycle when attempting to treat this disease as it can weaken the fish, compromise their immune systems, lead to secondary disease, and death.
ICH LIFE CYCLE
The ICH disease goes through different stages as follows:
*First stage is the parasitic phase. During this phase the spores are in the tank (debatable how these spores get into the tank and not the purpose of this posting), but you are not aware of its existence. The spores are very tiny and cannot be seen with the naked eye.
*The spores imbed themselves into the fish skin. It is the fish's immune system that builds up cells to cover the spore in an attempt to heal its body. It is the fish immune system that actually creates the white spots that we can see with our eyes. During this phase the spores are completely covered, protected if you will, by the fish cells. And, during this phase the disease CANNOT BE TREATED SUCCESSFULLY.
As the immune system is working to remove the spores from the fish body, it can weaken the fish and lead to secondary infections. Once the immune system is able to detach the spores from the body, they will begin to drop off.
*While detached from the fish, the ICH spores begin to reproduce. A single spore can divide into hundreds, even thousands, of new spores. These new spores then attach themselves to your fish and the cycle repeats itself until either the spores are removed from the tank or the fish succumbs.
With each cycle the spores increase in volume and the immune system is unable to ward off subsequent attacks. This is why it is critical to begin treatment immediately, while the fish are at their strongest.
TREATING ICH THROUGH ALL PHASES OF THE LIFE CYCLE
Begin by raising the water temperature to 86F/30C. As changes in temperature can have a negative impact to fish, it is important to only raise the temperature 1-2 degrees per hour. Further, it has been shown that the ICH spores begin to die at this temperature. So, make sure you maintain this temperature through the entire treatment.
Keep the temperature elevated for 14-days. Yes, 2 full weeks! Do not be fooled into thinking the ICH is cured when it begins falling off the fish. ICH typically runs in 7-10 day cycles until removed from the tank.
Add extra oxygen lines to ensure the water stays completely saturated with oxygen to minimize fish stress. Warmer water is not able to hold as much oxygen.
Do 30-50% water changes 2-3 times per week. Make sure the fresh water is warmed to 86F/30C.
If there is ANY measurable ammonia or nitrites, indicating the tank is no longer cycled, do daily water changes during this 14-day treatment. Continue with daily water changes until the tank becomes cycled and stable. No point in curing ICH and not dealing with the waste.
Deep clean the substrate, cleaning no more than 1/3 the gravel bed with each cleaning. Shove the gravel tube completely through the substrate to the bottom glass plate and do not move it until all debris has lifted. Then, move the tube about an inch and repeat. Move decor items to clean under them as this is where uneaten foods and other waste tends to collect.
Do not worry about how much gravel is cleaned, so long as you are able to lift all debris and so long as you do not clean more than 1/3 as this could lead to a mini-cycle.
When the ICH falls off the fish, it is these gravel cleanings that remove it from your tank. If it isn't removed then the ICH spores will again attach themselves to the fish body.
With a sand bottom tank, move the cleaner over the surface. Sand is great as all debris sits on top and doesn't filter down like it can with gravel substrates.
Planted tanks are a bit tricky. In all open areas, thoroughly deep clean the gravel; but when plants have rooted, do a surface scan over the roots and at the base of the plants.
When there are no signs of the spores, after the full treatment, then slowly lower the water temperature down to the preferred level. Again, no more than 1-2 degrees per hour.
Soak fish foods in freshly minced garlic as fresh garlic is a great immune booster plus it has mild antibiotic properties to help ward off secondary infections. Using a garlic press is great for this! Mix fresh garlic with a few drops of water and soak the foods; feed food and garlic to fish, but only as much as they can eat.
While I prefer freshly mincing garlic due to the antibiotic properties that are quickly lost to oxidation, using bottled minced garlic is a good alternative. Just make sure it isn't bottled in oils or it will foul your water.
Treatment can be repeated if ICH is still present.
Ever since I began treating my tanks this way, I have never had a repeat episode of ICH, unless I added new fish or plants which may have been carriers.
Good luck treating your fish. Save your money on medicines for when they are really necessary. Or, better yet, use your savings to purchase new fish, plants or equipment.
ICH LIFE CYCLE
The ICH disease goes through different stages as follows:
*First stage is the parasitic phase. During this phase the spores are in the tank (debatable how these spores get into the tank and not the purpose of this posting), but you are not aware of its existence. The spores are very tiny and cannot be seen with the naked eye.
*The spores imbed themselves into the fish skin. It is the fish's immune system that builds up cells to cover the spore in an attempt to heal its body. It is the fish immune system that actually creates the white spots that we can see with our eyes. During this phase the spores are completely covered, protected if you will, by the fish cells. And, during this phase the disease CANNOT BE TREATED SUCCESSFULLY.
As the immune system is working to remove the spores from the fish body, it can weaken the fish and lead to secondary infections. Once the immune system is able to detach the spores from the body, they will begin to drop off.
*While detached from the fish, the ICH spores begin to reproduce. A single spore can divide into hundreds, even thousands, of new spores. These new spores then attach themselves to your fish and the cycle repeats itself until either the spores are removed from the tank or the fish succumbs.
With each cycle the spores increase in volume and the immune system is unable to ward off subsequent attacks. This is why it is critical to begin treatment immediately, while the fish are at their strongest.
TREATING ICH THROUGH ALL PHASES OF THE LIFE CYCLE
Begin by raising the water temperature to 86F/30C. As changes in temperature can have a negative impact to fish, it is important to only raise the temperature 1-2 degrees per hour. Further, it has been shown that the ICH spores begin to die at this temperature. So, make sure you maintain this temperature through the entire treatment.
Keep the temperature elevated for 14-days. Yes, 2 full weeks! Do not be fooled into thinking the ICH is cured when it begins falling off the fish. ICH typically runs in 7-10 day cycles until removed from the tank.
Add extra oxygen lines to ensure the water stays completely saturated with oxygen to minimize fish stress. Warmer water is not able to hold as much oxygen.
Do 30-50% water changes 2-3 times per week. Make sure the fresh water is warmed to 86F/30C.
If there is ANY measurable ammonia or nitrites, indicating the tank is no longer cycled, do daily water changes during this 14-day treatment. Continue with daily water changes until the tank becomes cycled and stable. No point in curing ICH and not dealing with the waste.
Deep clean the substrate, cleaning no more than 1/3 the gravel bed with each cleaning. Shove the gravel tube completely through the substrate to the bottom glass plate and do not move it until all debris has lifted. Then, move the tube about an inch and repeat. Move decor items to clean under them as this is where uneaten foods and other waste tends to collect.
Do not worry about how much gravel is cleaned, so long as you are able to lift all debris and so long as you do not clean more than 1/3 as this could lead to a mini-cycle.
When the ICH falls off the fish, it is these gravel cleanings that remove it from your tank. If it isn't removed then the ICH spores will again attach themselves to the fish body.
With a sand bottom tank, move the cleaner over the surface. Sand is great as all debris sits on top and doesn't filter down like it can with gravel substrates.
Planted tanks are a bit tricky. In all open areas, thoroughly deep clean the gravel; but when plants have rooted, do a surface scan over the roots and at the base of the plants.
When there are no signs of the spores, after the full treatment, then slowly lower the water temperature down to the preferred level. Again, no more than 1-2 degrees per hour.
Soak fish foods in freshly minced garlic as fresh garlic is a great immune booster plus it has mild antibiotic properties to help ward off secondary infections. Using a garlic press is great for this! Mix fresh garlic with a few drops of water and soak the foods; feed food and garlic to fish, but only as much as they can eat.
While I prefer freshly mincing garlic due to the antibiotic properties that are quickly lost to oxidation, using bottled minced garlic is a good alternative. Just make sure it isn't bottled in oils or it will foul your water.
Treatment can be repeated if ICH is still present.
Ever since I began treating my tanks this way, I have never had a repeat episode of ICH, unless I added new fish or plants which may have been carriers.
Good luck treating your fish. Save your money on medicines for when they are really necessary. Or, better yet, use your savings to purchase new fish, plants or equipment.