Culprit's Journey Into The Dark Side - Page 29

NLindsey921

Beautiful.
 

stella1979

Awww, beautiful babies! I love them already!! Congratulations bud.
 

xiholdtruex

if the water is clean water local, then I drip if its shipped then I add some prime and temp acclimate and change.
 

Culprit

this morning my little scale babies are doing great! Begging for food and already recognizing me. I started PrazI this morning, so by Monday of next week they'll be finished with Prazi. I'm debating whether or not to hit them with Paraguard like I'd planned. the guy I'd got them from got them from Proaquatix who he said has the healthies fish in the hobby. Googled Proaquatix sick fish and nothing came up, lots of rave reviews and rated very well. he said he'd kept them in QT since he got them, so never any contact with any fish, never been sick, ect. I almost put them straight into DT but the wise and calm stella1979 talked me to reason. No reason for me to risk anything after all I've been through and just going through a 80 day fallow period by putting some clowns in that I have a QT all set up and ready for. Thank you Stella! Anyways, I'm wondering to Paraguard or not to Paraguard...

Stocking!

20 long:
Clowns
Six-line Wrasse
A) Royal Gramma B) Firefish C) Starry Blenny B) Randalls Goby and shrimp

JBJ Nanocube 24:
BangaiI Cardinals
tailspot Blenny
Clown goby
A) firefish B) Randalls goby and shrimp C) Jawfish

What's your guys choice for each tank?
 

stella1979

For the 20 gallon long - A or C

JBJ - Definitely A!!!

Watch for signs of parasites and dose them if you even get a funny feeling. If not... no dose.
 

Wild Bill

My theory on meds, watch them for a week, if they show signs of sickness, then medicate.
 

xiholdtruex

When it comes to qt, if I put them in a qt I run at least one week of the meds to be on the safe side. Has not failed me yet in freshwater at least
 

Culprit

For the 20 gallon long - A or C

JBJ - Definitely A!!!

Watch for signs of parasites and dose them if you even get a funny feeling. If not... no dose.

Good choices. 20 long those were my favorites as well.... I don't think a goby or firefish would do well in a more aggressive tank. I think I'll decide when I get there between the two. For the JBJ... I wonder if I could do both A and B.... I really really really want anothr goby, but I super want a firefish too. Lemme see. It has almsot the same footprint as the 20 long, its just square instead of long. Its also higher. The Bangaii's will be chill, and off on their own. tailspot will be small and light bioload. The blue line goby (MEANT BLUE LINE NOT CLOWN), will be very small and light bioload. Then the goby the randall's stay smaller. Firefish... a decent sized fish. I'm going to have a huge fuge, like the middle chamber will be full. The tailspot will eat algae, the tailspot will clean, the bangaiis will breed, the firefish will chill, and the goby will chill. Ya'll think I could do 5? I think though, even if I try for it, I'll stock slowly and make sure my fuge is keeping up with nutrient export. Also make sure theirs no fighting.

They seem very healthy right now but I'm going to keep watching them like a hawk. I'll wait until after PrazI is done which will be 9 days and then probably hold them until 2 weeks is up just to make sure then put them in DT.
 

Gypsy13

Well there in about 1/3 full quart baggiws and it's a 45 minute drive home so I thought it would have some ammonia.

I got them and they are so beautiful!!! They even have blue!!! I'm in love! It's a male female pair obviously, and they're amazing

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They sound adorable and you sound much better. Love is a wonderful thing
 

stella1979

I think you're right about the stocking on the JBJ and the possibility of 5 fish, especially since I know you'll be careful. I've had Scorch a long time now, and he eats prepared foods as well as all the microfauna he wants daily, and the corals eat too... zero nitrates ALL the time. I'd say the firefish is of little worry as far as bioload goes.
 

Culprit

They sound adorable and you sound much better. Love is a wonderful thing

Thank you. They were exactly what I needed.

I think you're right about the stocking on the JBJ and the possibility of 5 fish, especially since I know you'll be careful. I've had Scorch a long time now, and he eats prepared foods as well as all the microfauna he wants daily, and the corals eat too... zero nitrates ALL the time. I'd say the firefish is of little worry as far as bioload goes.

I hope so. I'll take it slow. Means I'll need another bag of sand as the stuff now is really rough, almost gravel. I was thinking at least the tailsot blenny, blue line goby and firefish will not be much bioload.
 

Culprit

Sigh. Have lots I need to order and its all expensive. Fathers day is coming up, so gift for that, and then paying the petsitters. THose two are payed for. Then I need to buy LED's for the JBJ, sediment and carbon filters, Sand, ATO equipment, big 3 test kits, more CUC for the JBJ, and then after the clowns are out the next fish for the 20 so the clowns don't get too settled in. I'm going to spread it out, in order here's how much they need to be ordered.

1. Sediment and carbon filters. I'll probably order those this afternoon from Marine Depot. 2. More CUC for the JBJ 3. LEDs for the JBJ 4. big three test kits. These were more expensive then I thought, $20 each! Ouch. That's $60 for them all. 5. Next fish 6. Sand.

CUC for the JBJ and more fish will get picked up when I go by the fishstore next, probably in a few weeks. I'll be ordering the sediment and carbon filters asap. LED's for the JBJ I'm still working out what I need but it will be about $30. Probably order those sometime this week or the next. At least I'll be making some good money off the chalice. I'm shipping out today. Sand will need to be ordered when I get a burrowing fish for the JBJ, and test kits whenever I have the money for them.

About the LED's. There are two strings, a white string and a blue string. The white string has 5 royal blues, and 6 whites. Of those, 1 white and one blue is out. The blue string has supposed to be 4 royal blue LEDs but two are out. What I'll be doing is replacing the two LEDs that are out on the white string with 2 Royal Blue LED's. On the blue string I'll be replacing the two blues that are out with 2 UV LED. The UV will bring out flourescing colors no other wavelenghts do, as it tricks the corals into thinking they are shallower then they are and bring out their colorful sunscreen. These are 390-400 nm
UV-A (315-400nm)

Ultraviolet light is in the 100nm-400nm range, with UV-A being the 315nm-400nm end of the spectrum. UV-B and UV-C are not even considered here, as they are damaging to tissues. UV-A doesn't get used very often either, but will be found in every fluorescent and gas arc discharge (metal halide, HID) lamp due to the mercury used. Some, including myself have speculated that UV-A can actually be beneficial for coral health and color, but hasn't been proven effectively (at least from what I have seen so far). The big detractor from UV-A LEDs, especially in the 365nm range (mercury spike) has been cost. They are outrageously expensive, and with little known benefit, are generally avoided. UV-A LEDs hovering around the 400nm range aren't really of any use, and the photosynthetic action curve falls off sharply around this point.



As for coloration in the tank, there is very little discernible difference when these are used, as the human eye isn't very sensitive to these wavelengths. When used alone though, they can bring out fluorescent colors that aren't normally seen when using light in the visible spectrum. Due to the potential health risks though, especially regarding the eyes, they aren't recommended for use.

blue will bring out the reds and oranges, and take away the purple caused by royal blue, making for better pictures. It will also crisp up the light. I already have one, so this will even it up.
Blue (465nm-485nm)

Blue was initially considered a supplemental color, meaning that it made an effect to the light and coral color, but wasn't really necessary. That's changed though, and it really is a beneficial color that should be used in all arrays, although sparingly.

Blue LEDs do a great job of fluorescing reds and oranges that royal blues just can't touch. They also help to take some of the purple tint out of the light that you can get from a neutral/warm white and royal blue mixture, as well as making the light a little crisper. Too much though, and the tank can look like Windex, so they either need to be used with restraint, or put on a separate channel to be controlled independently.

Next I will add a lime LED. This is a newish LED that came out recently. It will brighten the light, and take out the purple tint completely.
Lime (566nm-569nm)

566nm-569nm is just the peak wavelength, as these LEDs produce light in the 500nm-620nm range (measured at the 50% output point). The peak wavelength is higher than a typical green, and it actually coincides with the peak human eye sensitivity. This LED was designed with that in mind, as it was intended to help brighten the light, without adversely affecting CCT (something that just green alone can't do). This color can make the light a lot brighter as well as completely eliminate the purple tint that you can get with neutral white and royal blue combinations.
 

Gypsy13

Sigh. Have lots I need to order and its all expensive. Fathers day is coming up, so gift for that, and then paying the petsitters. THose two are payed for. Then I need to buy LED's for the JBJ, sediment and carbon filters, Sand, ATO equipment, big 3 test kits, more CUC for the JBJ, and then after the clowns are out the next fish for the 20 so the clowns don't get too settled in. I'm going to spread it out, in order here's how much they need to be ordered.

1. Sediment and carbon filters. I'll probably order those this afternoon from Marine Depot. 2. More CUC for the JBJ 3. LEDs for the JBJ 4. big three test kits. These were more expensive then I thought, $20 each! Ouch. That's $60 for them all. 5. Next fish 6. Sand.

CUC for the JBJ and more fish will get picked up when I go by the fishstore next, probably in a few weeks. I'll be ordering the sediment and carbon filters asap. LED's for the JBJ I'm still working out what I need but it will be about $30. Probably order those sometime this week or the next. At least I'll be making some good money off the chalice. I'm shipping out today. Sand will need to be ordered when I get a burrowing fish for the JBJ, and test kits whenever I have the money for them.

About the LED's. There are two strings, a white string and a blue string. The white string has 5 royal blues, and 6 whites. Of those, 1 white and one blue is out. The blue string has supposed to be 4 royal blue LEDs but two are out. What I'll be doing is replacing the two LEDs that are out on the white string with 2 Royal Blue LED's. On the blue string I'll be replacing the two blues that are out with 2 UV LED. The UV will bring out flourescing colors no other wavelenghts do, as it tricks the corals into thinking they are shallower then they are and bring out their colorful sunscreen. These are 390-400 nm
UV-A (315-400nm)

Ultraviolet light is in the 100nm-400nm range, with UV-A being the 315nm-400nm end of the spectrum. UV-B and UV-C are not even considered here, as they are damaging to tissues. UV-A doesn't get used very often either, but will be found in every fluorescent and gas arc discharge (metal halide, HID) lamp due to the mercury used. Some, including myself have speculated that UV-A can actually be beneficial for coral health and color, but hasn't been proven effectively (at least from what I have seen so far). The big detractor from UV-A LEDs, especially in the 365nm range (mercury spike) has been cost. They are outrageously expensive, and with little known benefit, are generally avoided. UV-A LEDs hovering around the 400nm range aren't really of any use, and the photosynthetic action curve falls off sharply around this point.



As for coloration in the tank, there is very little discernible difference when these are used, as the human eye isn't very sensitive to these wavelengths. When used alone though, they can bring out fluorescent colors that aren't normally seen when using light in the visible spectrum. Due to the potential health risks though, especially regarding the eyes, they aren't recommended for use.

blue will bring out the reds and oranges, and take away the purple caused by royal blue, making for better pictures. It will also crisp up the light. I already have one, so this will even it up.
Blue (465nm-485nm)

Blue was initially considered a supplemental color, meaning that it made an effect to the light and coral color, but wasn't really necessary. That's changed though, and it really is a beneficial color that should be used in all arrays, although sparingly.

Blue LEDs do a great job of fluorescing reds and oranges that royal blues just can't touch. They also help to take some of the purple tint out of the light that you can get from a neutral/warm white and royal blue mixture, as well as making the light a little crisper. Too much though, and the tank can look like Windex, so they either need to be used with restraint, or put on a separate channel to be controlled independently.

Next I will add a lime LED. This is a newish LED that came out recently. It will brighten the light, and take out the purple tint completely.
Lime (566nm-569nm)

566nm-569nm is just the peak wavelength, as these LEDs produce light in the 500nm-620nm range (measured at the 50% output point). The peak wavelength is higher than a typical green, and it actually coincides with the peak human eye sensitivity. This LED was designed with that in mind, as it was intended to help brighten the light, without adversely affecting CCT (something that just green alone can't do). This color can make the light a lot brighter as well as completely eliminate the purple tint that you can get with neutral white and royal blue combinations.

You have something against purple? :smug:
 

Baba

About the LED's.
Make sure your driver current output matches the new LED's. I think UV can digest way less current than Royal Blue's in general.
 

Culprit

Driver output for blue string is 700 mA for the white string its 1000 mA. I've been talking with the guy that made it and he said as long as its above 700 mA for the blue string replacements and 1000 mA for the white I'm good. Do you know anything about color combination?

You have something against purple? :smug:

Wel I'm debating between UVA (390-400 nm) which I won't be able to see much but might bring out some pretty cool colors. Or Violet which is still UV sort of but 400-410 nm. The problem with not leaving the royal blue and whites alone is the purple is really hard to take pictures of, plus the cyan will help crisp up the light, so it looks less like a muddle and more like a Prime (hopefully lol)
 

Baba

Driver output for blue string is 700 mA for the white string its 1000 mA. I've been talking with the guy that made it and he said as long as its above 700 mA for the blue string replacements and 1000 mA for the white I'm good. Do you know anything about color combination?

The 700mA should be fine for UV.

I don’t really know much about. Sometimes it seems to be a hype to me with all those different spectrums.
For Freshwater I was always good with a neutral to cold white (7K to 10K).
This gives a good full spectrum.
Everything else is just for show.
Don’t know enough about Saltwater though.
 

Gypsy13

Wel I'm debating between UVA (390-400 nm) which I won't be able to see much but might bring out some pretty cool colors. Or Violet which is still UV sort of but 400-410 nm. The problem with not leaving the royal blue and whites alone is the purple is really hard to take pictures of, plus the cyan will help crisp up the light, so it looks less like a muddle and more like a Prime (hopefully lol)

I know. It better for pics but purple is so pretty!
 

Culprit

The 700mA should be fine for UV.

I don’t really know much about. Sometimes it seems to be a hype to me with all those different spectrums.
For Freshwater I was always good with a neutral to cold white (7K to 10K).
This gives a good full spectrum.
Everything else is just for show.
Don’t know enough about Saltwater though.

Yeah right now the color combo is 6 nuetral white to 5 royal blue on the white string. When its all working it has 7 neutral white to 6 Royal Blue. Not nearly enough blue for me. The blues used to have 4 blues, now at 2. The neutral white and Royal Blue is really all the corals need, but it will be purple, and will not bring out other colors.

Now, I've heard very differing things about the UV. Some people swear by it, and others say it does nothing. With some advice I'm getting from an etremely knowledgable lighting expert, I think I may replace the current blue LED with cyan, put another cyan in, and replace the rest with Royal Blue. And swap out two of the whites for Royal Blues.

I know. It better for pics but purple is so pretty!

Haha no competing with that one. Kings color!

So.... I just won another giveaway!!!! Its the eKoral controller!!! I'm SO EXCITED
 

Baba

Yeah right now the color combo is 6 nuetral white to 5 royal blue on the white string. When its all working it has 7 neutral white to 6 Royal Blue. Not nearly enough blue for me. The blues used to have 4 blues, now at 2. The neutral white and Royal Blue is really all the corals need, but it will be purple, and will not bring out other colors.

Now, I've heard very differing things about the UV. Some people swear by it, and others say it does nothing. With some advice I'm getting from an etremely knowledgable expert, I think I may replace the current blue with cyan, put another cyan in, and replace the rest with Royal Blue. And swap out two of the whites for Royal Blues.

I would personally separate the colors on different channels (not sure if your drivers are dimmable though) in order to tweak it to my liking.

So.... I just won another giveaway!!!! Its the eKoral controller!!! I'm SO EXCITED

Congratulations! You should really consider playing the Powerball. You must have luck in abundance. LOL
 

stella1979

WOW!!! Very cool bud! Where'd you win this one from?
 

Culprit

So white string is dimmable.

I think I will be completely be overdoing the light. Taking the whole light out and putting it in a black box style thing. Essentially a black box. Installing a dimmer on the white string. So now I will ditch th ehood as it makes it a pain in the butt to work in the tank, and it looks kind of dated. I'll hang the light. Also, final LED decision I think is replace the blue with cyan, replace one of the burnt out LEDs with cyan, and then replace one white LED working with Royal Blue, and replace the rest of the burnt outs with Royal Blues.

Any suggestions for a box?

Reef2reef again haha. I think I may enter the lotto hahaha. Except that I'm not 18 lol. This would've been so nice on the trip. It has lots of (expensive) addons, but I think I can hook up my pump, lights, and mabye my ATO. Its the Ek Core.
 

Baba

It’s weird that a few LEDs are out. If it’s wired correctly in series as it should be with a constant current driver, the whole string should go dark. Redoing it will be the right way I assume.
For the box you will need something what acts as a heat sink.
I saw some 6” once which look pretty sleek and can be used with a hanging kit.
But it’s not cheap cheap. I will send you a link when I found it.

This one comes with hardware to handle 12 LEDs (assuming you use the 20mm starboards).
The hanging kit is extra.

MakersHEATSINK SLIM Kit
 

Culprit

It’s weird that a few LEDs are out. If it’s wired correctly in series as it should be with a constant current driver, the whole string should go dark. Redoing it will be the right way I assume.
For the box you will need something what acts as a heat sink.
I saw some 6” once which look pretty sleek and can be used with a hanging kit.
But it’s not cheap cheap. I will send you a link when I found it.

I'm not really sure... the guy who made it seemed very knowledgeable about electricity, he said he paid his way through college doing electric jobs like wiring and stuff.

He said he could easily pull the whole thing, heat sink, wires, LED's, fans, ect out and install them in a box. I don't think the box will need to work as a heat sink. What I'm thinking will happen is I'll have a box, cut the bottom out so its a little smaller then the edges of the heat sink. Then I'll like put some kind of plastic or something to bring the heat sink and LEDs up into the box about 2 inches. This will kind of stop the light from going all over my room. Then I can just install a piece of acrylic or something across the bottom. I can line the edges of the box with aluminum foil so the light reflects down into the tank. For maintnece or whatever I can just lift the lid off the top and pull the heat sink out. DOes that sound completely crazy or sound like it could work?
 

Baba

Would you mind sharing pictures or better draw a schematic of your lighting system?
LEDs usually fail open circuit and in a constant current circuit all LEDs are wired in series. One fails, all are out.

Does the appearance of your box matter to you? If not, a simple project box out of ABS might cut it for you.
 

Culprit

I'll ask if he has a schematic. I have no idea what he did lol but it works. Around 400 PAR at 7 inches.

Nope. That looks perfect. It'll be in my room, so I don't need it to look amazing. Also, heck, its a black box with light coming out one end and two cords out the top. I figure as long as it doesn't look completely horrible it won't look too bad. It will also be hanging so, plus.

Here' I'll go get some pictures of it best I can.
 

Culprit

Here. Driver, fans, string, ect.


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sipec

I get what you mean. I hate losing fish in general but him I had a special relationship with.

I can't wait!! I'm about to leave, and I should be able to update with pics tonight. I'm super nervous and want to make sure they're ok. Do you think drip acclimation or the quicker dump a cup every 5 minutes to get them out of the ammonia water? I can't wait to get these clowns, not only because I love clowns and love the way these look but my reef will be soooo happy.

Good news. I'll be shipping out all the Chalice on Wednesday. If anyone here wants it claim it now or hold your peace. That means I can switch some frags over. I think I'll lop 2 heads of my purple/green splattered hammer, keep a bit of chalice, move some zoas over, and mabye some other frags if I think of any. Also, as soon as the clowns are into DT, it will be time for fish in the JBJ!

I think I've figured out stocking.

20 long:
Clowns
Sixline Wrasse
Starry blenny or Royal gramma

JBJ:
BangaiI Cardinal Pair
Jawfish or randalls goby/pistol shrimp pair
Tailspot blenny
Blue line blenny
For your stocking I would do a pink line wrasse instead of a sixline, they are much more peaceful, and i’d do either a tailspot or a blue line blenny cause blennys don't really play well together, everything else sounds sweet though
 

Culprit

For your stocking I would do a pink line wrasse instead of a sixline, they are much more peaceful, and i’d do either a tailspot or a blue line blenny cause blennys don't really play well together, everything else sounds sweet though

Problems with a pink line, is I'm afraid it'd be bullied by my clowns. Also, its quite a bit more expensive then the sixline. I'll watch personality. I've got some really good advice from Nart to not go off a fishes looks, but the personality. You can style your tank and have a peaceful tank by watching personality.

Mabye I'll do a tailspot and a clown goby then.


Oh, and welcome to fishlore and my dark thread! What kind of tank/size do you have? Mainly salty or mainly FW?
 

sipec

That would work, but the reason I try to steer you away from the sixline though is they’re kinda aggressive and people tend to get them and regret it, from what ive heard. I totaly agree with the gramma though, I have one and they are great fish, beautiful and funny personality.
Oh, and welcome to fishlore and my dark thread! What kind of tank/size do you have? Mainly salty or mainly FW?
Thanks, I have a little of both, I have a 24 gallon reef whick I just set up a build thread about and a 20 gallon goldfish tank which will either be upgraded to a larger size or shut down. And I also am about to start a 7 gallon walstad style betta tank.

My 24 Gallon Reef | 353555
Heres the link
 

Culprit

That would work, but the reason I try to steer you away from the sixline though is they’re kinda aggressive and people tend to get them and regret it, from what ive heard. I totaly agree with the gramma though, I have one and they are great fish, beautiful and funny personality.

I know the risks, and I have a LFS that will take them back. I also have a QT I can put it in if there's any trouble and I need to get it out.

I like it! I'll go check it out.
 

Baba

Thanks for the pictures.

It's really weird, they are indeed in series but seem to have failed short circuit. However, the solder job looks like my first attempt of soldering MCPCB's. Bad. Maybe they shorting somewhere through the metal core / heat sink.
I don't know your skills but if you have never done it, get solderless LED stars. Plug and Play, simple and easy. Or get a batch of cheap Chinese stars from Ebay (10 pcs for $0.99 shipped LOL) and train before you burn your $4 Cree LED.

This here looks scary. I assume there are switches on the outside of the box. Always unplug before opening the box, your hot wire is exposed.

upload_2018-6-28_14-5-30.png

Other then the un-insulated hot wire connection and the soldering the build looks good and organized. Driver might be a bit outdated. I would opt for some DC-DC driver. The dimmable ones can be dimmed to zero with PWM. And it's safer because the AC stops at the power supply.
 

Culprit

He will be the one soldering. I have no experience or equipment to solder. He has all the grease, glue, ect.

Do you think when I buy the box, install a dimmer, insulate the wires, buy more LEDs, and buy acrylic, how much more/easier do you think it would be to just get a black box?
 

Baba

He will be the one soldering. I have no experience or equipment to solder. He has all the grease, glue, ect.

Do you think when I buy the box, install a dimmer, insulate the wires, buy more LEDs, and buy acrylic, how much more/easier do you think it would be to just get a black box?

The Chinese Black Box will be cheaper and more convinient. I think the big thing about DIY LED is you can choose your colors (which seems to be a point for you) and you get better quality components compared to what is in the Black Box.
 

Nart

Get a small yellow coris wrasse Colin.
Small comes about 1" to 1.25" in size. They are very peaceful and can hold their own against aggressive fishes because they can dart really fast away from any potential danger. Since you have a good amount of rockwork they can swim in and out of hunting for pods, brittle stars, and any pests you may have. They will also bury under the substrate to sleep at night.
 

Baba

Ok, slow day at work. Most people leaving already for the Holiday week.

This is what I would do...

upload_2018-6-29_11-12-4.png

Channel 1:
6x solderless 6000K Cool White LEDs
Solderless CREE XP-G3 Cool White LED
$25.50
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1500mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$33.24

Channel 2:
6x solderless Royal Blue LEDs
Solderless CREE XP-G3 Royal Blue LED
$19.50
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1500mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$27.24

Channel 3:
4x solderless Cyan LEDs

$17.00
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1000mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$24.74

Power Supply 24V / 100W
LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies
This PS should have enough power left to run 1 or 2 fans if needed.
3-prong cable needed.
$16.09

TC420 Controller (can control 5 channels), it needs to be "hacked", the 5V PWM signal to dI'm the Meanwell driver needs to be grabbed from the Mosfet gate (controller needs to be opened and a wire needs to be soldered on the Mosfet gate)
You can program custom sunrise/sunset and determine the max output for each in minute intervals. You could even have different modes, which can be easily switched e.g. normal mode, coral acclimation mode etc.

$20.21

total
$122.33

Not included shipping costs.
Also no enclosure. I am guessing your heat sink to be 10" x 8". The project boxes I found at Amazon are pretty expensive in this size. Maybe considering the Markers SlI'm heat sink / enclosure?
You might need lens holder and lenses too.

It adds up quick...
 

Culprit

Get a small yellow coris wrasse Colin.
Small comes about 1" to 1.25" in size. They are very peaceful and can hold their own against aggressive fishes because they can dart really fast away from any potential danger. Since you have a good amount of rockwork they can swim in and out of hunting for pods, brittle stars, and any pests you may have. They will also bury under the substrate to sleep at night.

Will a Coris Wrasse not get too big? I saw on LA it gets to 5 inches, which is the same as a YWG. Sounds like a great fish from what I've read. Also, I know if you get a smaller fish, it will often grow to max size a whole lot slower, and a lot of times won't make it to max size.


Ok, slow day at work. Most people leaving already for the Holiday week.

This is what I would do...

upload_2018-6-29_11-12-4.png

Channel 1:
6x solderless 6000K Cool White LEDs
Solderless CREE XP-G3 Cool White LED
$25.50
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1500mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$33.24

Channel 2:
6x solderless Royal Blue LEDs
Solderless CREE XP-G3 Royal Blue LED
$19.50
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1500mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$27.24

Channel 3:
4x solderless Cyan LEDs

$17.00
1x driver jumper cable
Driver Jumper
$1.00
1x end plug
Solderless LED Plug
$0.75
1x LDD-HW 1000mA driver
LDD-H Series Mean Well Step-Down Mode CC DC-DC LED Drivers
$5.99

sub total
$24.74

Power Supply 24V / 100W
LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies
This PS should have enough power left to run 1 or 2 fans if needed.
3-prong cable needed.
$16.09

TC420 Controller (can control 5 channels), it needs to be "hacked", the 5V PWM signal to dI'm the Meanwell driver needs to be grabbed from the Mosfet gate (controller needs to be opened and a wire needs to be soldered on the Mosfet gate)
You can program custom sunrise/sunset and determine the max output for each in minute intervals. You could even have different modes, which can be easily switched e.g. normal mode, coral acclimation mode etc.

$20.21

total
$122.33

Not included shipping costs.
Also no enclosure. I am guessing your heat sink to be 10" x 8". The project boxes I found at Amazon are pretty expensive in this size. Maybe considering the Markers SlI'm heat sink / enclosure?
You might need lens holder and lenses too.

It adds up quick...

Wow that's a lot of research! Thank you very much. That really solidifies what I've been thinking, that a black box or some other LED will be my best bet. That's just way too expensive for a DIY light. I'd much rather run open top and ditch the hood. Could I still get that TC420 thing for a black box? So I could actually program it? I've heard about using the TC420 for freshwater. Need to do more research!
 

Baba

That's just way too expensive for a DIY light.
You need to compare a well done DIY to a Radion or like. Then it's significantly cheaper.
You could ditch all the Cree LED's and get the 10 cent Ebay LEDs, cheap drivers etc., then it's in a lower price range than a black box.
Could I still get that TC420 thing for a black box?
I would say generally yes if the fixture runs between 12V and 24V fixed voltage and the load per channel does not exceed 4A . If it uses constant current drivers I doubt it will work. (However, I have never seen a Black Box so far in person.)
There are two to three possibilities;
A) All LEDs wired common cathode. Easy.
B) LEDs are wired common anode. Possible but requires some tweaking with additional hardware (mosfets) to invert the signal.
C) Probably all colors are on one channel. If they are on a PCB it will be difficult to but not impossible to separate them to run a custom spectrum. If they are wired it will be easy.

I would try it, not sure how comfortable you are with tinkering electronics though.

Edit: Google for the BRS TV video were they have tested the black box. Interesting stuff.
 

Culprit

So I asked around a bit and here's some answers I got.

1. Does it run between 12V and 24V fixed voltage?
Not likely, especially because of the answer to question 3
2. What is the the load per channel?
3 watts per LED, about 27 LEDs per channel. Should be around 81 watts, averaging 3.2-3.8V per diode, probably connected in series (I'm not going to do all the math for you)... and using about 700mA per diode
3. Does it use constant current Drivers?
Likely
4. Could I connect a TC420 to it for optimum controllability?
Time to open it up and see what is inside! That will also help answering the above questions...

I believe on the Marsaqua which is the most popular, there's two channels that can be dimmed and turned on and off seperately.
 

Baba

You did your homework. LOL

1. Ok, could be good, could be bad, depending how 3. Looks like.
2. You did all the math 27 x 3.8V x 0.7A ~ 72W. So if they run on 700mA they are either underdriven or the 3W LED claim is a marketing gig. But its irrelevant for the TC420 if it runs constant current. A constant current circuit can not be controlled directly with the TC420 .
3. Alright. To use the TC420 they need to be dimmable. If the Marsaqua has already pots to dim, the question will be: Does the driver accept a PWM signal on this input. Worst case the drivers will have to be switched with Meanwell driver, $6 each.
 

Baba

Read some rumor that the Marsaqua is 10V PWM controllable and also that the TC420 could accept input as low as 7V.
If this is true, it would be very easy to accomplish.
 

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