Culprit's Journey Into The Dark Side

Culprit
Member
Finally finally finally I get to start this thread. I can't tell you guys how excited I am right now. I couldn't be starting this thread without wonderful people like KristaD Nart stella1979 Nanologist Tragic13 grantm91 LJC6780 and thesoulpatch . These guys are absolutely amazing!

I got my mom to take me to PetCo today and got my tank. Don't have any pictures right now because I didn't have time to get it out of the car before she left haha. There's a few small lumps in the silicon, I'm sure Nanologist wouldn't approve . But other then that it looks great! No bubbles or anything. I'm going to be building an aquarium workbench since I'm also going to be building a tank for my neighbor at the same time, so this is going on the bottom shelf and I'll cure my live rock while I gather the equipment. Then I will build a stand and set everything up once the rock is cured and I have all the necessary equipment!

Right now my shopping list for what I need is:
1 - Brute
3 - 5 gallon buckets with lids - one for dirty water, one for mixing sw and the other for acclimating!
1 - Jebao Saltwater 2 Powerhead
1 - Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 75 or 100 watt heater
20 gallons of saltwater from my LFS
Mixing Powerhead for the stored saltwater from my LFS.

I'm going to be using water from my LFS to start. I figure I'll cure the rock in the tank with 10 gallons of water, and change out 5 gallons twice a week or whenever its needed. Will I need to add ammonia once the LR stops putting off ammonia?

Shopping list for all I need for the tank:
ATC Refractometer
Instant Ocean Salt (Will switch to reef crystals when I start getting more/harder corals)
Mixing Heater
Carib-Sea Arag-Alive BiminI Pink Special Grade Reef Sand

I'll post pictures of the tank when she gets back! I think I will still mix my salt - but mabye not for a little while. Its only an extra $50 a year to buy saltwater instead of make it myself. However, I definitely want the peace of mind and the knowledge I can change my salinity if I want, so eventually I will get the salt and mixing heater. But for now, I'll buy from them. I'll start with 20 gallons, put 10 in the tank with the rock, keep the other ten in the brute, next week get 10-20 gallons and keep the brute filled up so I can do a wc whenever I need to.

Thank you so much everyone !!
 
grantm91
Member
Happy for you culprit, I'll enjoy this build I'm sure it's going to be a great creation.
 
stella1979
Member
Sounds perfect! Happy, happy day!!!

To answer your single question... yes, add ammonia when you need to. Give the rock some time to start leaching, but keep an eye on parameters. Then add ammonia to ensure you're cycled, or to bump up the cycle if you need to.
 
KristaD
Member
Yay!!!!
 
Nanologist
Member
Awesomeness!
Culprit said:
There's a few small lumps in the silicon, I'm sure Nanologist wouldn't approve

Will I need to add ammonia once the LR stops putting off ammonia?
Haha, it’s funny you say that, because I was pretty unhappy with the Aqueon silicone job on the 29 gallon I bought from this summers $1 per gallon sale. They obviously don’t use tape for a nice straight line and the silicone isn’t as clear as the kind I use. I noticed this because the 10 gallon I resealed myself looks better than the brand new 29g! Glad my seal job is on the saltwater tank.

For the ammonia question, yes to keep the cycle going until it finishes or until you get fish after it finishes cycling. In my case I started with only dry rock so I had to add ammonia to start the cycle once the rock was done curing.

LR varies in die-off and how much elements/chemicals it excretes when curing and cycling, so testing the water will let you know when and how much.
 
Nart
Member
About time Colin.
Hey - jsut a note. You might want to buy one little 2.5 gallon bucket instead for acclimating.
The reason: when you try to acclimate say.... a fish, invert, or coral in a 5 gallon bucket sometimes you simply don't get enough water bagged from the store. So when you dump the bag of fish, invert, or coral into a 5 gallon bucket... you'll barely have just enough water to keep them submersed. In a 2.5 gallon bucket there's less floor space, so it'll fill up a lot higher. Just a thought.

Since we're talking about acclimating. I was just talking to one of my private sellers about his acclimation method of when he gets corals shipped in.
He told me, "usually its a waste of time drip acclimating corals. I temp float the bags, take the corals right out, dip bath, and into the frag tank. The only time you really want to drip acclimate something is like fishes, when the salinity is way off." Which kind of surprised me he didn't drip acclimate the corals he gets in since, lots of them are collector pieces. Any who, as we talked more... it made sense. Lots of corals are a lot hardier than we think. Even SPS corals. Quite a few reef systems out in the ocean are subjected to low-tides during the day without water for quite some time.

I remember when I first started... I was so cautious with every little thing. Water acclimating. If my coral didn't look happy I'll turn it this way. Place it over here or there. Take it out for dip. Now? I just stopped sweating over every little thing, so as long as my parameters were in check, it'll be A-Okay.

Anyways, thought I pass on a little information to you.
Welcome to the saltwater club
 
stella1979
Member
Good advice there from Nart Culprit.

I use a 2 gallon dark blue container for acclimation... I felt like the fishes would prefer a dark environment. Also, only for fish, not coral.

I'm also learning not to sweat the small stuff...
 
thesoulpatch
Member
I'm just ready to see some pictures!! super excited
 
Tragic13
Member
Awesome news!!!! !
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Nart said:
Hey - jsut a note. You might want to buy one little 2.5 gallon bucket instead for acclimating.
The reason: when you try to acclimate say.... a fish, invert, or coral in a 5 gallon bucket sometimes you simply don't get enough water bagged from the store. So when you dump of fish, invert, or coral into a 5 gallon bucket... you'll barely have just enough water to keep them submersed. In a 2.5 gallon bucket there's less floor space, so it'll fill up a lot higher. Just a thought.
I have about a 1 gallon big plastic tupperware I use to acclimate fish and inverts I get. I usually use that. That's interesting on the corals. Ya know, I've been doing some reading on corals, ect. and there are so many mainly sps corals that get absolutely abused. At low tide they are sitting in the air, with tons of super harmful UV rays beaming upon them, and they thrive! Softies can also be abused in tide pools with really hot water, super high salinity, ect. It really made me wonder if we baby our corals too much...

Haha definitely about time though. All I need to cure the live rock is a heater, thermometer, powerhead, and my two brutes for RO/DI water for top offs and the other for salt right? I won't need a refractometer just to cure it - I can trust my LFS on this one for salinity since its just LR. And if I really want to I could just ask them to double check the salinity with their refractometer.

Then I can start getting stuff like my salt and mixing stuff, refractomter, and substrate while I wait for the LR to cure/cycle. I should be building the working stand (not for in the house, its the stand I'll be working on stuff on) sometime this week.

Thanks guys I'm super excited!!! Only thing is... the LFS I was planning on getting my water from closed down... So I've got to drive an extra 15 minutes to get it. Parent's won't be too happy, but I'm going to counteract that by getting a big brute and filling it as full as I can with RO/DI water, then I can just top it off every 2 weeks or month or so.

I'm going to call my Lowes and Home Depot and see how much it will cost to buy two strips of glass for euro bracing. The more I think about it the better I think it will look rimless. I think I will do a 2 1/2 inch strip of 3/16" thickness on both sides... I could go with one single brace from front to back but I'd rather play it safe and euro brace it. Plus it will stop any inverts or escaping heehee.
 
stella1979
Member
Sounds good... I think you'll be fine holding off on the refractometer for now. I would ask the LFS to double check it in my presence.

Can't wait to see how that euro brace turns out. You're an inspiring guy Culprit!

Got any pictures for us yet?
 
grantm91
Member
What a clever dude, had to google the euro brace thing, will this hinder having hang on kit ? Also you are correct about the coral, if people seen the way I handle my coral I think they would cringe, especially the softies lol.
 
Nanologist
Member
I would suggest asking the LFS, instead of double checking the salinity, to teach you how to use a refractometer by testing the water your buying when you go in each time. Explain to them that you’re eventually going to mix it yourself and purchase your own refractometer so it help if they showed you how to properly use one. Maybe they’ll even show you how to calibrate one if you ask nice enough!

This way, not only will you be double checking, you’ll get to see for yourself and get some experience.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
stella1979 said:
Sounds good... I think you'll be fine holding off on the refractometer for now. I would ask the LFS to double check it in my presence.

Can't wait to see how that euro brace turns out. You're an inspiring guy Culprit!

Got any pictures for us yet?
Coming right up Stella!!

grantm91 said:
What a clever dude, had to google the euro brace thing, will this hinder having hang on kit ? Also you are correct about the coral, if people seen the way I handle my coral I think they would cringe, especially the softies lol.
Lol grant I'm gonna try to be stand offish/not baby everything because I've read its best to just leave your tank alone and keep your hands out. They will adapt!

Nanologist said:
I would suggest asking the LFS, instead of double checking the salinity, to teach you how to use a refractometer by testing the water your buying when you go in each time. Explain to them that you’re eventually going to mix it yourself and purchase your own refractometer so it help if they showed you how to properly use one. Maybe they’ll even show you how to calibrate one if you ask nice enough!

This way, not only will you be double checking, you’ll get to see for yourself and get some experience.

That's really smart! For sure, and that way it won't seem like I'm being rude asking to double check them, and I get to find out how to use it.

So I temporarily set it up to take pictures. Just for you guys ! It looks really good. I will have to screw the screws in a lot harder to keep it horizantal, but I didn't want to go to all that work lol.

P1050264.JPG

P1050262.JPG

P1050258.JPG

P1050260.JPG


As you guys can see, a bit of a sloppy silicone job but not too bad seeing as its a 20 gallon tank.
P1050259.JPG


I'm getting ready to order my Jebao powerhead and heater, but I have a question on the heater. Will 75 watts be enough? Sometimes I feel like my 75 watt eheim jager struggles a bit on my 20 high tech. This house can get down to about 65 in the fall when we open our windows - doesn't happen often though. So I'm wondering whether to spend $10 more and get the 100 watt or ifthe 100 watt will be too much and not worth the extra $10. Nart do you use the Cobalt neotherm 75 watt on your IM25 and does it keep it plenty warm? Cheers !
 
stella1979
Member
I have 100W on both of my 20gL. The house is pretty consistently 73° and the heaters don't actually turn on a whole lot. Doesn't help much does it? Yeah, wait for Nart to chime in.

There's another $30 that I happily spent on temp control though. It's not really necessary, but it gives me peace of mind, so I thought I'd let you know in case you want something like this one day.



Heaters will never be able to cook my tank as long as this thing is working. It maintains temp within 0.2 degrees too, and puts less wear on the thermostat in the heater itself. It's also nice to see the temp from across the room. Now, if the heater breaks in the 'off' position, well, that's another story. Only a 2nd heater can help with that I think.
 
Nart
Member
Equipment list is listed in my builds!! Haha. Messing. I know my threads are all over the place.

I use the 100W Cobalt Neo-therm in my IM25 and 50W neo-therm in the IM10. My apartment is usually 72 during the day and 69 at night. Keeps temperature perfectly stable and with ease. No issues at all. I've had my apartment dropped to the low 60s, with no issues keeping my tank warm.

So, back when I was newbie and tried different heaters, Aqueon, Fluval, and Eheim heaters.. did not perform consistently to the way I wanted to. Eheim was okay. But it's just too big for what it is. Maybe if you had a real sump below to place the big heaters in it'll be okay. But in AIO tanks you want slim, just so you can fit more things in, make as much space as possible for everything else.

If I were you. Go with the Cobalt Neo-therm 100W on Amazon. I think it's like $33. One of the best $ you'll ever spend on equipment. The heater is so slim. It's awesome. Kind of overkill, but you'll be able to reuse that heater in a bigger setup.

Aww... I just checked. Prices on Cobalt went up a bit. 75W should work in a 20gallon. But up to you. I've had no issues with my Cobalt. I love em.

I will say... stay away from Aqueon. It's too inconsistent. Unless you have what Stella mentions, with the temp control, eventually you'll want a nice temp control. But Cobalt is more than enough to handle the tank and your needs for now.

Oh. One more thing. There's no guessing with the neo-therm. It's a digital setup. So you choose like 76,78,80,82, etc..., it's in increments of twos. I hate those heaters where you have to adjust the little dial.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
I'll probably go ahead and get the 100 watt. I definitely want to be on the safe side. I feel like 75 watts is not quite high powered enough. I was planning on the Cobal neotherm for sure. I like the jager - I have it in my high tech tank but its soooo long and obvious. It stands out so much. Kind of hard to get the right temp. Not super great about keeping a steady temp either.

That's great. I hate messing with the little dials too. I'll place the order today or tomorrow, and when it comes I'll fill the tank up with freshwater and put the equipment in. Leak test, equipment test, ect. Then once I know everything is good I'll get my live rock!!
 
LJC6780
Member
Nart said:
About time Colin.
Hey - jsut a note. You might want to buy one little 2.5 gallon bucket instead for acclimating.
The reason: when you try to acclimate say.... a fish, invert, or coral in a 5 gallon bucket sometimes you simply don't get enough water bagged from the store. So when you dump the bag of fish, invert, or coral into a 5 gallon bucket... you'll barely have just enough water to keep them submersed. In a 2.5 gallon bucket there's less floor space, so it'll fill up a lot higher. Just a thought.

Since we're talking about acclimating. I was just talking to one of my private sellers about his acclimation method of when he gets corals shipped in.
He told me, "usually its a waste of time drip acclimating corals. I temp float the bags, take the corals right out, dip bath, and into the frag tank. The only time you really want to drip acclimate something is like fishes, when the salinity is way off." Which kind of surprised me he didn't drip acclimate the corals he gets in since, lots of them are collector pieces. Any who, as we talked more... it made sense. Lots of corals are a lot hardier than we think. Even SPS corals. Quite a few reef systems out in the ocean are subjected to low-tides during the day without water for quite some time.

I remember when I first started... I was so cautious with every little thing. Water acclimating. If my coral didn't look happy I'll turn it this way. Place it over here or there. Take it out for dip. Now? I just stopped sweating over every little thing, so as long as my parameters were in check, it'll be A-Okay.

Anyways, thought I pass on a little information to you.
Welcome to the saltwater club
That’s exactly what I do with my corals too. I usually add dip to the water it comes in, rinse in a cup of tank water then in the tank it goes ... did that with a club gonipora I got this morning!

Also Culprit, if you are relying on someone else to mix your water, be sure to check SG before using the water ... people make mistakes and you just want to be sure you are getting what you think you are.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
LJC6780 said:
That’s exactly what I do with my corals too. I usually add dip to the water it comes in, rinse in a cup of tank water then in the tank it goes ... did that with a club gonipora I got this morning!

Also Culprit, if you are relying on someone else to mix your water, be sure to check SG before using the water ... people make mistakes and you just want to be sure you are getting what you think you are.
Sounds like you've got the process all smoothed out! Plenty of experince with plenty of corals .

I'm only going to be until I get the rest of the stuff. But yes, nanologist gave the genius idea of me asking how to use a refractometer so I can check the SG and learn how to use one!
 
LJC6780
Member
Yeah ... saw that after I’d already replied! Lol that is a good idea! Hands on experience is great!
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Just placed my amazon order for 1 Jebao Saltwater 2 powerhead and 1 Cobalt Aquatics Neotherm 100 watt heater. They should be here Wednesday! I can't wait!!! I should get my working stand built on of the nights this week.

I'm debating whether to go ahead and dry out the rocks and scape them with epoxy and rods or scape them without epoxying them together and keep them wet... I feel like right now I want to keep them wet and perserve any life there is left and scape it. I think that way if I ever want to change it since I'm still a beginner right now.. If I realize like nanologist say I like RFAs and want to change my scape for them, or anything like that. Eventually if I want to I can epoxy together for a final scape but for now I think i'm going to leave them unglued.
 
thesoulpatch
Member
I like the ability to rescape whenever I want. I did it twice after my corals from the live sale.
 
stella1979
Member
Sounds like an excellent plan Culprit. I did go ahead and scape before really starting the tank. I wouldn't do that again... in fact, if I were to do it again, I'd spend a lot of time on it, just like Nart did. It's certainly not something you have to do right away though. You're going to have a lot more space to work with in your tank than Nanologist did too, so I'm sure you'll come up with something nice enough on the fly.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
stella1979 said:
Sounds like an excellent plan Culprit. I did go ahead and scape before really starting the tank. I wouldn't do that again... in fact, if I were to do it again, I'd spend a lot of time on it, just like Nart did. It's certainly not something you have to do right away though. You're going to have a lot more space to work with in your tank than Nanologist did too, so I'm sure you'll come up with something nice enough on the fly.
Well, I will have plenty of time while the rock cures and cycles to scape it. I'm hoping my experience scaping in freshwater will carry over. I think I like the "alley" style. The two triangle islands in each corner with an alley in between. I'll definitely be experimenting when I get the rock. As soon as these come in I'm gonna fill the tank up with fw and make sure everything works!

When the rock is curing can I go ahead and put the light on to get through some of the algae bloom?
 
stella1979
Member
Yes, you can run the lights while you cure. Hopefully this will mean far less algae in the tank.
 
LJC6780
Member
Yes you can! And not a bad idea playing with it up front. If nothing more but to get a feel for how the rocks fit together and what you might be able to do with what you’ve got.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
stella1979 said:
Yes, you can run the while you cure. Hopefully this will mean far less algae in the tank.
I figured I could get some of the diatom bloom out of the way before going in the tank. Lots less maintnence lol.

LJC6780 said:
Yes you can! And not a bad idea playing with it up front. If nothing more but to get a feel for how the rocks fit together and what you might be able to do with what you’ve got.
Yeah! And from my experince with FW, you can't build a great hardscape in a day. It took me almost a month to get the one in my profile.

Nart can help me with this one... As you know the current marine orbit has 4 preset light cycles. There's like max, middle, and 2 coral acclimating modes. Should I put it all the way on the max setting or on one of the coral acclimating modes? Do I need lots of light or just enough to start growing coralline without encouraging tons of other algea?
 
LJC6780
Member
I doubt that coralline will start growing so soon ... it usually takes some maturity to get going.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Alright. I think tragic said there might be some still on there though. It mabye died off though. How much light should I run on it?

Found a really cool mod for my AC 50 refugium. Cheato and an algae turf mat scrubber. Page 2. Still waiting on the amazon order, but I got started on the stand last night. Only got everything cut because when I went to start putting it together I found out some moron had ground down the square drill bit I needed . So I might be able to finish it today, idk.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Nart I know you've mentioned the type of 2 part epoxy you use, and I halfheartedly looked through my old thread, and your im25 thread before realizing it would be like finding a needle in a haystack lol . So if you wouldn't mind mentioning that again I would be grateful. Super excited for my order, its coming tomorrow! Then I get to fill the tank up and do a leak and equipment check. See how that wavemaker works! I think I might go ahead and mod my AC50 when I get the time. What light do yall use on your refugiums? I figure I can go ahead and start my cheato and algae turf scrubber.

pertroleum distillates
 
Nart
Member
It's in my thread!! haha kidding with you.
I use this one:
Comes in the dark purple or grey color.
You'll notice some bad reviews on Amazon for it... that's because, sadly, those folks simply don't understand how to use 2 part epoxy lol.

It's best to rock-scape out of the water. Easier to mold and mend the epoxy to the rocks. After you've connected, say 2 pieces of rocks together with the epoxy, just let it sit there for 5 minutes. It should hardened enough to work on the next piece.

I also use epoxy to mount some corals down to my rock-work too when the frag pieces are too big and heavy for super glue gel alone to work.
My method is to rip equal parts of the epoxy and mush it together so it mixes well, usually for 30 seconds. The instruction says to mix/mush for 1 minute, but if you take too long, the epoxy hardens and you'll have to get more epoxy out and start over again. Play with it. You'll get the hang of it. Totally safe to use in the tank too.

As for lights for your small chaeto, go for some hydroponic clip on light. The chaeto seems to like the purple/pink color lighting more, but any small LED light will work for an AQ50.
Didn't I sell you that AQ50? Don't expect the chaeto to grow much at first, especially if your system doesn't have a lot of nutrients for it to soak up.
 
thesoulpatch
Member
Yeah I agree with Nart I use the hydroponic light and my chaeto doubles sometimes triples in a week or two! Only draw back is at night my room is bright pink...
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Nart said:
It's in my thread!! haha kidding with you.
I use this one:
Comes in the dark purple or grey color.
You'll notice some bad reviews on Amazon for it... that's because, sadly, those folks simply don't understand how to use 2 part epoxy lol.

It's best to rock-scape out of the water. Easier to mold and mend the epoxy to the rocks. After you've connected, say 2 pieces of rocks together with the epoxy, just let it sit there for 5 minutes. It should hardened enough to work on the next piece.

I also use epoxy to mount some corals down to my rock-work too when the frag pieces are too big and heavy for gel alone to work.
My method is to rip equal parts of the epoxy and mush it together so it mixes well, usually for 30 seconds. The instruction says to mix/mush for 1 minute, but if you take too long, the epoxy hardens and you'll have to get more epoxy out and start over again. Play with it. You'll get the hang of it. Totally safe to use in the tank too.
Perfect! How do you not know how to use a 2 part epoxy? Quote, one of the people was like, completely crumbled after a few minutes of drying. Well der, you didn't mix it lol. 2 part people, you make it one part haha. Dark purple would be perfect cause it would blend in once coralline starts to grow.

I figure that since I don't want to completely dry out the live rock, on the chance there is still anything alive, I will take the two rocks I want to epoxy together, pat the parts I will be epoxying on dry, put wet paper towells over the still wet parts and keep misting them, spread a thin layer of super glue and then epoxy on top of that. Put them together for 2 or 3 minutes and put it back underwater. I have plenty of time! Is it just one tube they send you with a divider down the middle? Or is it two tubes one with one part and the other with the other? I'm assuming after you use as much as you want to cover the unmixed part with cling wrap or something and it stays moist?

Nart said:
As for for your small , go for some hydroponic clip on light. The chaeto seems to like the purple/pink color more, but any small LED light will work for an AQ50.
Didn't I sell you that AQ50? Don't expect the chaeto to grow much at first, especially if your system doesn't have a lot of nutrients for it to soak up.
thesoulpatch said:
Yeah I agree with Nart I use the hydroponic light and my doubles sometimes triples in a week or two! Only draw back is at night my room is bright pink...
So something like this? Yep you did sell it to me! Still works amazing. I thought I could go ahead and have it running and starting my algae turf mat and cheato growing while the rock cured and cycled. I figured there would be plenty of extra nutrients . I think it looks kind of cool. But good thing this tank is going in the main part of our house so everyone can enjoy it! Don't know if I could sleep with that lol.
 
thesoulpatch
Member
That would work! I have this on my HOB. Which is meant to grow plants, so it works perfectly! But that one you posted would work as well!
 
stella1979
Member
Culprit said:
Found a really cool mod for my AC 50 refugium. Cheato and an algae turf mat scrubber. Page 2.
Cool mod... that's pretty much what we did too, but didn't know if would also function as an algae scrubber until it started happening. I love that there isn't algae in the tank, but chaeto isn't growing at all for me, probably because I can't get nitrates over 0.25ppm. I haven't tried to be super low nutrient, just happened.

Edit: Glad to hear you guys talking about 2 little fishies epoxy... I almost ordered it yesterday, but the star rating held me up. I was pretty sure the bad reviews were from operator error, but was hoping for more info. The epoxy was to help with the torch... Wish I would've waited.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
stella1979 said:
Cool mod... that's pretty much what we did too, but didn't know if would also function as an algae scrubber until it started happening. I love that there isn't algae in the tank, but chaeto isn't growing at all for me, probably because I can't get nitrates over 0.25ppm. I haven't tried to be super low nutrient, just happened.
Do you have an actual turf mat or just the cheato?
 
stella1979
Member
We have the grid... siliconed in place. We didn't intend to have a turf mat, so didn't place the grids correctly for that. In our minds, the grids are there for containment, not algae, so it's not positioned to get the flow it would require to be a good turf mat. Algae is growing kind of everywhere in the AQ70 with an Acke light. Mostly on the inner walls, some on the grids, as well as below the chaeto, on a mesh bag that holds Matrix. Algae grows in the AQ and nowhere in the tank. It's working as a scrubber, even though that wasn't part of our initial design and it's harder to clean than a removable turf mat would be. We still expect this mod to work more as a fuge... someday, when stocking is higher and we have a more nutrient rich environment. I'm surprised how much algae has grown... it must be sucking up all the nutrients because we always test nitrates at 0.25ppm and phos at 0.
 
LJC6780
Member
Culprit said:
Alright. I think tragic said there might be some still on there though. It mabye died off though. How much light should I run on it?

Found a really cool mod for my AC 50 refugium. Cheato and an algae turf mat scrubber. Page 2. Still waiting on the amazon order, but I got started on the stand last night. Only got everything cut because when I went to start putting it together I found out some moron had ground down the square drill bit I needed . So I might be able to finish it today, idk.
Square drill bit?
 
LJC6780
Member
Culprit said:
Nart I know you've mentioned the type of 2 part epoxy you use, and I halfheartedly looked through my old thread, and your im25 thread before realizing it would be like finding a needle in a haystack lol . So if you wouldn't mind mentioning that again I would be grateful. Super excited for my order, its coming tomorrow! Then I get to fill the tank up and do a leak and equipment check. See how that wavemaker works! I think I might go ahead and mod my AC50 when I get the time. What light do yall use on your refugiums? I figure I can go ahead and start my cheato and algae turf scrubber.

pertroleum distillates
I have a magnetic Refugium light on there now but just ordered the Kessil refugium light the other day!
 
BobNJerry
Member
culprit your excitement is palpable!! congrats!!
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
stella1979 said:
We have the grid... siliconed in place. We didn't intend to have a turf mat, so didn't place the grids correctly for that. In our minds, the grids are there for containment, not algae, so it's not positioned to get the flow it would require to be a good turf mat. Algae is growing kind of everywhere in the AQ70 with an Acke light. Mostly on the inner walls, some on the grids, as well as below the chaeto, on a mesh bag that holds Matrix. Algae grows in the AQ and nowhere in the tank. It's working as a scrubber, even though that wasn't part of our initial design and it's harder to clean than a removable turf mat would be. We still expect this mod to work more as a fuge... someday, when stocking is higher and we have a more nutrient rich environment. I'm surprised how much algae has grown... it must be sucking up all the nutrients because we always test nitrates at 0.25ppm and phos at 0.
I'm going to put some matrix in there. Loose though. Along with cheato and an removable algae turf scrubber. Hopefully eventually it turns into a full blown refugium.

LJC6780 said:
Square drill bit?
Yup!

LJC6780 said:
I have a magnetic Refugium light on there now but just ordered the Kessil refugium light the other day!
Man that's expensive! Really cool though! Bet your algeas gonna take off. Isn't it funny that we want algae to grow lol?

Pamela1224 said:
culprit your excitement is palpable!! congrats!!
Thank you!!! I'm am super duper excited. Need to get my parents to take me on a shopping trip. I need eggcrate, 2 brutes, 1 tank, long gloves, and water! My amazon order is coming tomorrow! Then I can get my live rock! Mom actually wants to take me to pick it up. When I get it I'll scrub off any soft parts, rinse it in fresh saltwater, then put it in the tank.
 
KristaD
Member
thesoulpatch said:
Yeah I agree with Nart I use the hydroponic light and my chaeto doubles sometimes triples in a week or two! Only draw back is at night my room is bright pink...
Sounds “romantic”!
 
KristaD
Member
thesoulpatch said:
Yeah I agree with Nart I use the hydroponic light and my chaeto doubles sometimes triples in a week or two! Only draw back is at night my room is bright pink...
Sounds “romantic”!
 
thesoulpatch
Member
heck yeah KristaD puts my gf in the "mood"....which is angry and saying why is it so bright in here....
 
Nart
Member
lol.... I can't believe you have that in the bedroom. esp, having it on all night as well. I like the bedroom to be pitch black when I go to sleep.

if it bothers - why not just run it on during the day? You might have a pH fluctuation.. but I don't think it's that big of a deal to the corals you have in the tank.
Or.... set the lights on a timer to kick on 1-2 hours after you fall asleep.
 
Nart
Member
Culprit - yeah those lights you linked should work for the small space you have.

As for the 2 part epoxy. It comes in 1 tube, they have the 1 part epoxy in the center and the 2nd part epoxy in the outer... think of it like a hot dog in a pretzel. So you can either slice or rip it and then start to mush it together. It comes in a wrap and tube. The unfinished stuff I just wrap it back and put it back in the same container. never had issues with it hardening over time.
There's lots of other epoxies to use too that people swear by. I started with using this stuff and it's what I know and works for me, so I just stayed with it.

I opt'd for grey this time because it was easier for me to blend in the colors with rock rubbles to hide the epoxy seams. That's my little secret, that only rock-scapers would appreciate lol.
And correction about the purple epoxy. it's a lighter shade of purple. It really doesn't matter ultimately. In a few months you'll have things growing over it and etc... unless the epoxy is right in your face and you couldn't smooth it down... just keep the small fragments that you break off. when you're done scaping. start using super glue gel to stick on the tiny pieces to the seams to hide it
 
thesoulpatch
Member
Yeah, it only bothers her. I always tell her if she closes her eyes she can't see it.... Which doesn't go over well but it's true! haha one of these days I'm gonna be sleeping on the couch...or will she? hmm.

But anyways Culprit I am very excited to see how this turns out!
 
stella1979
Member
I'm not a fan of the pink light either. It's in the living room, but I still wish it was off at 5:45am when I'm getting up. I like to leave it dark in the house for a little while... at least until 6:00. Been doing it for years, but I still hate getting up before the sun.

Culprit - It's AMAZON DAY!!!! I'm excited!
 
Nart
Member
thesoul and stella - ya'll two are hilarious.

The fuge lights don't have to be exactly opposite, like when DT lights are off, fuge light comes off and vice versa.
This is how I have my fuge lights currently set-up.... DT lights kick off at 9:30PM... fuge lights kick on at 11PM. Fuge light kicks off at 5AM. DT light kicks back on at 11AM.

No pink hue all over the room. what-so-ever.
But yeah, life of a reefer with no bottom sump to hide the extra lighting/equipments lol.
 
  • Thread Starter
Culprit
Member
Nart said:
Culprit - yeah those lights you linked should work for the small space you have.

As for the 2 part epoxy. It comes in 1 tube, they have the 1 part epoxy in the center and the 2nd part epoxy in the outer... think of it like a hot dog in a pretzel. So you can either slice or rip it and then start to mush it together. It comes in a wrap and tube. The unfinished stuff I just wrap it back and put it back in the same container. never had issues with it hardening over time.
There's lots of other epoxies to use too that people swear by. I started with using this stuff and it's what I know and works for me, so I just stayed with it.

I opt'd for grey this time because it was easier for me to blend in the colors with rock rubbles to hide the epoxy seams. That's my little secret, that only rock-scapers would appreciate lol.
And correction about the purple epoxy. it's a lighter shade of purple. It really doesn't matter ultimately. In a few months you'll have things growing over it and etc... unless the epoxy is right in your face and you couldn't smooth it down... just keep the small fragments that you break off. when you're done scaping. start using super glue gel to stick on the tiny pieces to the seams to hide it
Yeah, definitely will have stuff grow over and make it look natural pretty fast. From coralline, to small live stuff, ect. How much did you use for your IM25 rock scape? That's super useful that its that easy to portion and reuse. For sure will take small pieces of sand/broken rock and superglue on. Lol with my freshwater scaping it will not sit well with me to have a sub-par rockscape that I'm not happy with. I better make sure I have it perfect haha.

thesoulpatch said:
Yeah, it only bothers her. I always tell her if she closes her eyes she can't see it.... Which doesn't go over well but it's true! haha one of these days I'm gonna be sleeping on the couch...or will she? hmm.

But anyways Culprit I am very excited to see how this turns out!
Uh oh, that sounds iffy haha. YOu should just buy her an eyemask lol. Yeah!

stella1979 said:
Culprit - It's AMAZON DAY!!!! I'm excited!
YES!!! AMAZON DAY! They are both out for delivery! As soon as I finish my school I'm heading up to hopefully finish the stand so I can fill it up and test equipment. Then it's asking my mom for when I can go shopping and pick up my live rock!

Nart said:
The fuge lights don't have to be exactly opposite, like when DT lights are off, fuge light comes off and vice versa.
This is how I have my fuge lights currently set-up.... DT lights kick off at 9:30PM... fuge lights kick on at 11PM. Fuge light kicks off at 5AM. DT light kicks back on at 11AM.

No pink hue all over the room. what-so-ever.
But yeah, life of a reefer with no bottom to hide the extra /equipments lol.
I think I will like having them on at ngiht since its in the big room. Then I can sort of see the reef when its dark.
 
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