Cottony Spot/GoldFish

Discussion in 'Goldfish' started by Fancyfish, Dec 8, 2009.

  1. FancyfishNew MemberMember

    I've been following ths thread and am concerned because i just noticed a "cottony" spot on my Fancy Goldfish, too and today it has little specks so it is definately ick. My pet store gave me a product called Aquari-Sol- have you heard of it?
    My other Fancy has no spots (yet) so I think I am catching it right at the beginning. My tank is new- I have had the fishies 5 days and really don't want them to die! They are both eating well and are active- my question is.. can I use Aquarium salt and the Aquari-Sol? Will the salt interfere with the medication? I am going to remove the tank decorations tonight and do a partial water change and vacuum then I'll put the heater in and stat rasining the temperature..
  2. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    I'm not familiar with Aquari-sol. The one that I've used and had the best luck with is called Ich Attack. You don't really need to use aquarium salt and sometimes it can bother the fancy goldies. Also, with Ich-Attack, you don't have to raise the temperature (which is nice since goldfish prefer no heater) but it does help get rid of the ich, coming at from two directions (so to speak).

    Your tank is nice and new, what are the readings for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? If the tank has not cycled yet, there could be excess ammonia that would weaken the goldies resistance to disease.
  3. Aquarist

    AquaristFishlore LegendMember

    Hello Fancy Fish and Welcome to Fish Lore:sign0016: :animal0068:I've moved your post to a thread of it's own. I believe it will help you to get more responses and too get a proper welcome from the members.

  4. bolivianbaby

    bolivianbabyFishlore LegendMember

    Welcome to Fishlore, Fancyfish!
  5. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    Thank you:

    I will find some Ick attack- I did do a 30% water change yesterday afternoon and started the heater to raise the temperature in preparation for either using a product or just attempting to use heat to kill the ick. It is very confusing because there are so many products out there and everyone seems to have had sucess with a product or method.

    I came home from school to find my tank temperature at 90 degrees- and my Fancies quite happily swimming about.. I have lots of oxygenation in the tank thanks to some air rocks, and I've been checking the water quality twice a day so other than the temperature things are okay. I have reduced the temperature and am heading out to buy a better heater!!

    My Nitrate and nitrite levels are both at zero, my pH is between 7 and 7.5, my KH is at 120 and my GH is at about 30, which I know is too low for these fish but I am having trouble finding something to bring the GH levels UP. I see lots of products at the local stores designed to bring it DOWN but I have read that Goldfish prefer a higher GH (in the 120 range) so I am quite low.

    My smaller fish (Princess Buttercup) still has no visible signs of Ich and I am pleased to see that the larger one (Inigo Montoya) does not have any more spots that he did yesterday. Once the temperature is reduced I am going to do another vacuum/water change.

    I am worried about the temp as I need to let it cool long can Fancies tolerate high heat? They seem very happy right now but I don't want to cause them more stress!!
    I've heard of using warmer water temps to kill off Ich- has anyone tried this with success? I hate to use chemicals but will if I have to.

    One last question- I've been reading about UV filters which apparently work quite well to keep the water bacteria-free. This also means that the good bacteria are killed off, too. Do the fish need bacteria to digest food like we do? Has anyone tried UV?

    Thanks in advance.

  6. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    A temperature of 82 - 84 degrees for 2 weeks will kill off the ich and the goldies should do okay with it. My pond gets up in the 90's in the summer, but then cools off at night down to the 60's - 70's. The main thing with the warmer water temps is to keep the oxygen levels up. Sounds like you are doing that just fine. There is really no problem with using the heat as well as the medication if you want to. This will hit the ich with a double whammy and they won't be able to survive.

    I have a uv bulb in my filter on my pond. The uv rays kill free floating bacteria and algae that is in the water that goes past the uv bulb in the filter. There are different types of uv bulbs and filters. Since the good bacteria lives on surfaces and is not necessarily free floating, it would not be exposed to the uv bulb - depending on the type of set up you get. With mine, the uv bulb is in the filter housing, but separate from the filter itself. Therefore it does not affect the bacteria in the filter or out in the pond on the surfaces of the pond, rocks, and plants.
  7. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    Great- I just purchased some Ick Attack and am (trying) to lower the temperature on my finnicky heater. My fish are very active and are following me around their home (I am really surprised at how they both rush over to see me- I only feed them a pinch of food twice a day so I am sure that they don't see me as a giant dispenser- they are curious little fellows).

    I picked up am ammonia tester as well, so I will be able to monitor all parameters once I do another water change. I read quite a few letters from people who had ich infestations and I must admit it has me really worried as many of their stories did not have happy endings! Hopefully I caught this in time!

    Thank you again for your help.

  8. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    Keep us posted!
  9. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    I've managed to lower the temp to 87 degrees, and am continuing with a daily 30% water change. Fish are happy and eating well (I just introduced them to peas, and had a rather frightening moment when my larger fish swallowed a whole half a pea which got stuck in its throat- thought I'd have to take him to the vet but he finally spit up the pea: learned to chop up the peas!)

    I tried the Ick Attack last night- as soon as I added it to the water both fish began to frantically swim about, then started going to the top of the tank "air grabbing". I left it for about half an hour to see if it was just the small they didn't like (?) then did a 50% water change and they stopped. It must have reduced the O2 too much, even though I have an airstone AND added a bubble rod before adding the medicine. As the fish don't seem to mind the elevated temp, I will try to treat the Ick this way..

    There are fewer Ick grains today so they must be starting to drop off... I've been vacuuming daily with the water change. Will I need to replace the filter cartridges and Biomass- that is to say is there a chance that the Ick can survive in the sponge or filter componenets?
    I'm sure going to be careful when I get anothet tank.. can't imagine going through this with a large population!
  10. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    I'm surprised the goldies reacted to the Ich Attack that way. I've never had that happen.

    The temperature will kill the ich - so as long as the temperature in the filter stays above 82 degrees, no the ich should not survive.
  11. Aquarist

    AquaristFishlore LegendMember

    Hello fancy. Be sure to leave the temperature elevated for a full two weeks even if the fish appear to be ICH free prior to that date.
    Best wishes!
  12. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    Thanks- will do. The fish are still happy but I bought an ammonia monitor and noticed that all these water changes are wrecking havoc with the ammonia levels- this is a new tank so it hasn't had a chance to cycle. The levels are fine once the water is changed but about 8 hours later they creep into the "caution" portion of the monitor.
    I wonder if this is what made the fish react so strongly to the Ick Attack- it probably also reduces the oxygen levels and my tank is already probably lower than normal from the elevated heat and ammonia..

    I test my levels at least twice a day since I want happy fish- no nitrates or nitrites, no chlorine, pH is 7.2, KH is 80 (down from my reading of 120 yesterday) GH is 40. Right now my ammonia levels have crept up to "caution" again so I'll do a 15% water change before I go to bed to see if it helps. This morning I awoke to find the levels creeping into the "warning" zone and had to do a frantic water change as I prepared for school- I have water dechlorinated and ready to go but have to heat it to match the tank.. yikes!

    Thanks for all your help- I'm glad I found this site- most people would have told me to flush my fish and get new ones.. I am amazed at how many people don't realize that an aquarium takes quite a bit of care and maintenance and owners are proud of their little watery ecosystems!

    Any suggestions for keeping the ammonia levels a little more stable? The tank just isn't getting a chance to cycle- would adding some Aquaplus cycle (bacteria) with each water change help at all? I add a small amount every time but could increase the amount.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  13. Aquarist

    AquaristFishlore LegendMember

    Hello FancyFish. I would recommend adding a water conditioner called Prime or Amquel + with each water change. These chemicals will make the ammonia levels non toxic for 24 hours until it's time for your next water change. Don't test for 24 hours after adding the conditioner because you could get false positive readings for ammonia but it won't be toxic.

    "Cycle" doesn't contain the right kind of bacteria needed to sustain your tank. It dies quickly and uses the ammonia that the beneficial bacteria needs to develop. You'll have to add it for the life of your tank. Should you stop using it then your cycle may crash.

    You may want to consider using Tetra Safe Start (TSS) many members have found it very helpful and it worked for them cycling their tanks.
    Q & A With Tetra about Tetra SafeStart
    However, until the ICH has been cleared I would hold off on adding it as well. Especially since you have medicines in the tank. Don't confuse Tetra Safe Start (TSS) with other products such as Tetra Aqua Safe. Completely different chemicals.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  14. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    I've used Prime or Ammo-Lock to help with ammonia. There is also zeolite - it is a mineral that absorbs ammonia. I like the larger ammo-rocks from Drs Foster & Smith since they can look like part of the "landscape" of the tank. Of course, I just toss them in my waterfalls. They are nice because the ammonia they absorb is still available to the good bacteria which can live right on the rocks. Here is a link to them  
  15. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    Thanks for your advice- I'll be heading off to the Aquarium store again tomorrow (they love me)!

  16. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember


    I added Prime and got a zeolite filter so my ammonia levels are much better. My tank is till at 86 degrees and it has been a week since I started treating for Ick. Things were looking really good and I couldn't see any Ick spots on my fish. This morning, however, they both had three or four new spots.. I'm not sure what to do. I have been maintaining a very rigorous 30% water change/vacuuming every day and juststarted to add salt.

    My poor fish are flashing on the bottom of the tank- which they weren't doing before.

    Is it time to switch to chemicals? I have both Ick Attack and Aquisol but will need to lower the temperature before dosing if this is indeed the appropriate action to take at this time.

    Thanks very much!
  17. gremlin

    gremlinWell Known MemberMember

    I prefer using the Ich Attack. It has worked well for me with goldies before. It is possible that this is just a last ditch effort on the part of the Ich to try to survive. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
  18. Elvishswimmer

    ElvishswimmerValued MemberMember

    Usually the recommendation is to treat for 2 weeks.

    Are you doing thourough gravel vacs everyday? You need to make sure you get all those little bugs out out the gravel. The heat should kill them soon, if your fish aren't struggling to breathe, then keep going I'd say.
    The Ich lifecycle is about a week, and usually you can't kill them when they are on the fishes body, because they make that protective cyst that you see as the white spot.
    The fish then fall of and are free swimming for 48 hours before reattaching. The warmer temperatures should speed up their lifecycle, so hopefully you will see positive results soon!

    If you want though, you can drop the temp and add ich attack. Gremlin has had great success with it.
  19. OP

    FancyfishNew MemberMember

    Hi Elvishswimmer:

    Yes, I am doing gravel vacs daily.. the Ich I am seeng now are new growths, which has me quite frustrated because my largest goldie looked like she was almost spot-free yeasterday. The smaller fish (which did not have any signs of Ick) now is showing a few specks on her tail. The temperature has been elevated for a week now, but I just started adding aquarium salts yesterday. I was hoping that temperature alone would kill the Ick (my tank temp has been between 87-89 degrees all week. I am considering removing the gravel on my next water change.

    I don't want to let the Ick get too bad before I switch tactics- my fish are stressed enough with the high ammonia levels Ive been having as my tank cycles but I know one full day can make a huge difference..

    Ah, yes: when I do my vacuuming/water change I make sure I soak the vacuum and hose and all other equipment in hot water to kill any trophonts. I do have a hospital tank that I could set up if I needed a smaller area to dose the fish but as they are both infected I might as well treat the main tank.
  20. Red1313

    Red1313Fishlore VIPMember

    Once Ich is in the tank everyone has it... I know it seems frustrating that you thought it was gone but Ich comes in waves, and since they begin as microscopic parasites that's why you need to continue to treat for two weeks after the last symptoms disappear from all fish just to make sure it's gone gone.

    The daily water changes should be helping to keep your ammonia down alot.
    Good Luck and hang in there.

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