My 'rules': Not right under filter intake. Vertical if fish rest on horizontal surfaces, if horizontal, placed near bottom of the tank (heat rises) .psalm18.2 said:Where in the aquarium should the heater be? I have a 20 gallon long w/ heater in back horizontally in middle. Another on side under 2nd filter. Where and how do you keep yours?
Why not just under filter intake? Just curious. Because you don't want heated water going though the filter?Momgoose56 said:My 'rules': Not right under filter intake. Vertical if fish rest on horizontal surfaces, if horizontal, placed near bottom of the tank (heat rises) .
You don't want 'super heated' water going into the filter intake certainly. I don't know how warm the water is rising from my heater so that's just my rule for heater placement. Some heater manufacturers also have cautions that state not to place heaters right next to filter intakes.angelcraze said:I have them vertical and not fully submerged. My heaters are old and I don't trust that they are fully sealed anymore. Probably safe, just my own worry. I'd be nervous about a fish getting burned if I had them horizontal as well, I could see a pleco sitting on it, but again, I might just be paranoid. It would be nice to hide them and not worry about unplugging/ plugging back in during water changes.
Why not just under filter intake? Just curious. Because you don't want heated water going though the filter?
It makes me smile we all have our personal rules and norms.Momgoose56 said:just my rule
I just have one big heater in my 125 that keeps temp consistent 24/7 and hangs horizontally below the canister outflow on one end. Temp at both ends is exactly the same, temp sensors are on front/ side of tank at each end, furthest away from heater, intake, outflow and sensors are 5.5 feet apart. Works for me!John58ford said:It makes me smile we all have our personal rules and norms.
I totally get your logic, and have seen something similar with a tetra HT heater I have. It swings the temps as allot, like almost 3 degrees before it engages. Once it does engage it's chugging along for 8-10 minutes to catch up. In low flow, it does get very hot, like true to the no touch warning sign hot.
That's why I moved it closer to the intake though as counter intuitive as it sounds. Though it has been relagated to a sump system as a back up since this test:
I only use one HOB in my fish room at this point, it's set up on the back left slightly centered on a 10 gallon. This is my current 3 month QT. Remember the old school double bulb hoods? It has a cut out right there for the hob. In this one there are 2 clear paths of turbulent water, a fast one on the left near the outflow, and a slower one on the right, same pattern but larger. I like the heater vertical about 2 inches from the intake on right side, the end of the slowest return route, as this is likely the coolest water in the tank.
In testing of locations, using thermometers in each corner and a digital BBQ thermometer stuck right by the heater this kept things the most level. The heaters water at 1" using the tetra HT 10 gets up to about 90 degrees toward the end of hearing cycle. The corners of the tank stay at ~78 and ~76 respectively. The tetra would cycle on when water near it got down to 75. At that time the corners were still about 77 and 76, never figured that out, I credit magic and thermal mass+turbulent water friction. With the other half of the digital thermometer in the HOB, I would see 75-83 degrees through heater cycles.
With the heater in the slow corner, the fast corner and filter could drop to 72 degrees and water near the heater into the mid- high 90s.
With the heater on the fast side corner it was slightly better at the heater and filter but the slow side would get down to 72 and stay there, oh my.
Due to this, in a single filtered tank I try to stay 2-3 inches away from the intake (including the size of the pre-filter) putting the heater just about smack in the middle vertically. I also have gone to a digital heater that cycles at a closer temperature and only stays on about a minute at a time, the highs never clear 82 at one inch from the heater, and the corner and filter temps reflect that by being truly stable +/- 1.5 degrees.
I think of your heater could do it, horizontally near the bottom on the slow side would yield similar results, though I haven't tested that way as it doesn't fit well enough in my case.
In my most overworked sump system I use one cheap aqueon 150 watt heater, and one digital 150 watt heater to heat 60 gallons with a 10-20 degree cooler room temp. The heaters are after my filtration and before the pumps I find the temps in the sump to remain under 85 and the tanks are very stable at 80 in the closest tank and 77 in the longest run, right before the weir. The two heaters are within 3 inches of each other in a vertical chamber with very high flow, strangely they never cycle together, but something must be working right as they take turns and keep it at the right temp.
If 2" + 1" of pre filter is what momgoose would consider not close, I think we have a difference in thought and expression, with likely very similar results. I love these threads.
I like that but you using a canister is almost as much cheating as me using my sump. Do you have yours set up in a river (intake on one side outlet on the opposite) or in a more traditional inlet low on the same side as a higher outlet? I've been wanting to make a post about this one specifically for the sump and canister guys but it's so dependent on our target breeds I'd have to have 3 different poles in one thread lol.Momgoose56 said:horizontally below the canister outflow
River. Low intake one end, outflow up high on the other end. One outlet on outflow angled toward surface down the length of the back, other pointed lower toward front side. Problem with these older fx5's is you can't adjust flow volume so I have to direct flow from one outlet against the front wall to keep from creating a constant 'toilet bowl swir'l in the tank (it's not really that extreme but still...) lol!John58ford said:I like that but you using a canister is almost as much cheating as me using my sump. Do you have yours set up in a river (intake on one side outlet on the opposite) or in a more traditional inlet low on the same side as a higher outlet? I've been wanting to make a post about this one specifically for the sump and canister guys but it's so dependent on our target breeds I'd have to have 3 different poles in one thread lol.
Specializing in nano sumps, I've always looked at how small I can make it and gone from there the best source of numbers I could find was for fluval. I reverse engineered one of their all in one systems. Using the ratio of rings they had in one of there tanks I found about a liter of ceramics per one hundred of water. That tank has a pump with average turnover at about 6x pretty hour. In my designs I have always more than doubled it as you know from other threads on seeding and cycling etc. The smallest I could do for a 125 would fit in a 5 gallon, with about 2 gallons for filtration including mechanical (floss and sponge) and 2-3 liters of rings under them gravity fed. The next chamber would be heaters flowing up, then spill down to a pump/carbon chamber.Momgoose56 said:How big would a sump have to be for a 125-180 overstocked tank?