JLeeM
- #1
My girlfriend and I have talked about getting a corn snake.
How to you set up an exhibit for one?
How to you set up an exhibit for one?
Corn Snake How To
KinsKicks
- #2
Hello!
Firstly, while snakes are awesome, make sure you're willing to handle dead or alive mice (or rodents in general). I feel like once people can do that, they're golden (maybe silver . Lol bad joke. Sorry)
Tank:
• corn snakes get up to 5.5, maybe 6 feet. So you'll want at least a 20 gallon long and it doesn't hurt to go bigger/biggest tank you can get. Make sure it's escape proof and fit it with a tight lid; they make those wire mesh screens in various sizes that you can fit over the lid, and you can add a couple of weights for reinforcement of your worried
•you can and should provide snake-safe branches and hideaways so they can feel secure. As for bedding, aspen shavings are really nice as they are absorbent, soft, and hold shape when snake and burrow. You can use cypress mulch if you can find it, but avoid aromatic woods like line and cedar. Also avoid sand; these snakes aren't meant to burrow in sand and may ingest it leading to problems. Cleaning once a month is a good routine to get into it. You want to throughly clean, disinfect and put down new bedding.
•also provide clean fresh water in a shallow heavy bowl and replace when soiled. You can put them in corners so they can be found.
Lighting and temp
• you shouldn't have to use any special lighting for them, but a bit of natural light from nearby windows help with their circadian rhythm. Just avoid direct sunlight as it'll heat up the tank too quickly.
•they should be given a gradient temperature across the tank. Don't use those heat lamps; heat rises and nulls their actaully use if you plop them on top the screen lid. Instead, use an undertank heating mat. The warm end should be ~85F; this is perfect for them, while the cool end could be in the low 70s or room temp (including at night)
--you'll want a hideaway on each end of the gradients and monitor both the temps at those ends INSIDE the tank, not outside; they are different.
•don't mist their tank, its promotes fungus and mold. Instead, when you notice your snake shedding, it helps to provide a damp towel in the warmer hideaway to help increase humidity and make shedding much easier for them. Replace the damp towel often/when you notice it is getting dirty to minimize mold/fungus. You can remove when they finish their shed. If they get bad sheds, you might have to resort to soaking, but don't worry about that yet; they should have good sheds if you give them the right environment.
Food:
• for smaller snake/babies you may have to use live baby mice as they aren't used to thawed foods yet and won't go for it. When they get older, you can gradually introduce FULLY thawed mice but it does take a while to train them into doing so. Some people put their snake in a separate container, with poked holes (away from the warm end) with only the thawed mice so they better concentrate on their food and learn to eat it. But don't expect them to pick it up right away, everything takes time.
•I liked using forceps as these guys are awfully quick and you don't your fingers in the way. You'll probably have to "play" with it a bit to get them going or end up leaving it in the cage. They have different feeding habits. It all depends on them. If they aren't interested at first, leave it in the cage and check back in an hour. If it's still there, try offering again the next day.
•most adults are used to eating either thawed or live and you can go both ways.
•feed every 7-10 days for adults and 5-7 for babies.
Handling
•let your snake relax over a couple of weeks first before you plan to start handling; you don't want to stress them out. Usually 3-4 successful meals is a good indicator of starting an interaction.
•Unless you get a snake that got constant handling and is used to people touching them, you'll have to do some gradual training. Corn snakes are quite timid and cautious in nature and will strike when they are afraid. Don't worry as they can't do actaul harm to you and the bite doesn't hurt that bad. Once it happens, you sort of expect the feeling and it doesn't ever hurt as bad as the first time . You can wear thick gloves to start out if you're afraid and make it a learning proces for both of you
•make gradual and slow movements and approach from the side. Lift gently and with confidence. If you freak out and drop him; you're only delaying the process and he may associate you with danger. It may take a couple of weeks, but once he learns you aren't going to eat him, you'll be just fine.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask! I might post later if I think of anything else or you may beat me to it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Firstly, while snakes are awesome, make sure you're willing to handle dead or alive mice (or rodents in general). I feel like once people can do that, they're golden (maybe silver . Lol bad joke. Sorry)
Tank:
• corn snakes get up to 5.5, maybe 6 feet. So you'll want at least a 20 gallon long and it doesn't hurt to go bigger/biggest tank you can get. Make sure it's escape proof and fit it with a tight lid; they make those wire mesh screens in various sizes that you can fit over the lid, and you can add a couple of weights for reinforcement of your worried
•you can and should provide snake-safe branches and hideaways so they can feel secure. As for bedding, aspen shavings are really nice as they are absorbent, soft, and hold shape when snake and burrow. You can use cypress mulch if you can find it, but avoid aromatic woods like line and cedar. Also avoid sand; these snakes aren't meant to burrow in sand and may ingest it leading to problems. Cleaning once a month is a good routine to get into it. You want to throughly clean, disinfect and put down new bedding.
•also provide clean fresh water in a shallow heavy bowl and replace when soiled. You can put them in corners so they can be found.
Lighting and temp
• you shouldn't have to use any special lighting for them, but a bit of natural light from nearby windows help with their circadian rhythm. Just avoid direct sunlight as it'll heat up the tank too quickly.
•they should be given a gradient temperature across the tank. Don't use those heat lamps; heat rises and nulls their actaully use if you plop them on top the screen lid. Instead, use an undertank heating mat. The warm end should be ~85F; this is perfect for them, while the cool end could be in the low 70s or room temp (including at night)
--you'll want a hideaway on each end of the gradients and monitor both the temps at those ends INSIDE the tank, not outside; they are different.
•don't mist their tank, its promotes fungus and mold. Instead, when you notice your snake shedding, it helps to provide a damp towel in the warmer hideaway to help increase humidity and make shedding much easier for them. Replace the damp towel often/when you notice it is getting dirty to minimize mold/fungus. You can remove when they finish their shed. If they get bad sheds, you might have to resort to soaking, but don't worry about that yet; they should have good sheds if you give them the right environment.
Food:
• for smaller snake/babies you may have to use live baby mice as they aren't used to thawed foods yet and won't go for it. When they get older, you can gradually introduce FULLY thawed mice but it does take a while to train them into doing so. Some people put their snake in a separate container, with poked holes (away from the warm end) with only the thawed mice so they better concentrate on their food and learn to eat it. But don't expect them to pick it up right away, everything takes time.
•I liked using forceps as these guys are awfully quick and you don't your fingers in the way. You'll probably have to "play" with it a bit to get them going or end up leaving it in the cage. They have different feeding habits. It all depends on them. If they aren't interested at first, leave it in the cage and check back in an hour. If it's still there, try offering again the next day.
•most adults are used to eating either thawed or live and you can go both ways.
•feed every 7-10 days for adults and 5-7 for babies.
Handling
•let your snake relax over a couple of weeks first before you plan to start handling; you don't want to stress them out. Usually 3-4 successful meals is a good indicator of starting an interaction.
•Unless you get a snake that got constant handling and is used to people touching them, you'll have to do some gradual training. Corn snakes are quite timid and cautious in nature and will strike when they are afraid. Don't worry as they can't do actaul harm to you and the bite doesn't hurt that bad. Once it happens, you sort of expect the feeling and it doesn't ever hurt as bad as the first time . You can wear thick gloves to start out if you're afraid and make it a learning proces for both of you
•make gradual and slow movements and approach from the side. Lift gently and with confidence. If you freak out and drop him; you're only delaying the process and he may associate you with danger. It may take a couple of weeks, but once he learns you aren't going to eat him, you'll be just fine.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask! I might post later if I think of anything else or you may beat me to it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
JLeeM
- Thread Starter
- #3
I've read about tons of different light and heat bulbs too and that's where I get confused. Oh and having to turn off the heat pad? Don't understand why if the temp is different on each end.
KinsKicks
- #4
You don't want to turn off the heat pad (unless your house is BOILING during the day or at night constantly) you'll want to leave it on. Basically you want to create a gradient of temperatures for the snake to choose and "stay" in when he wants to. So one end is going to be "warm" and the other is end is going to be "cool". You can't have the temperature of the tank be all one temperature; its bad for their health. If they get "cold" they can go to the "warm" end and vice versa. They can't necessarily put on jackets or take clothes off of they are cold or hot like us.
People whom properly keep snakes don't use the bulbs or lamps. The problem with those is that because heat rises, the heat eventually just rises out of the cage and you don't have heat in the cage. (You can't make hear go down, it only goes up) So, rather, people use those mats that are put under the cage so it constantly warm and although the heat rises, it rises through the column of the tank, if that makes sense.
People whom properly keep snakes don't use the bulbs or lamps. The problem with those is that because heat rises, the heat eventually just rises out of the cage and you don't have heat in the cage. (You can't make hear go down, it only goes up) So, rather, people use those mats that are put under the cage so it constantly warm and although the heat rises, it rises through the column of the tank, if that makes sense.
Gamer
- #5
Very true and solid advice here. I just wanted to say good luck, I love my corn snake! They are great.
JLeeM
- Thread Starter
- #6
See you make a LOT more sense. Lol. Can't wait to get one. My girlfriend had a snake years back and I've had pet rats and mice so we should be good on the whole feeding thing too.
JLeeM
- Thread Starter
- #7
Do you have a picture of yours that you would like to share?
KinsKicks
- #8
Post pics soon! I love snakes
Gamer
- #9
He's a little guy so far, but here he is
a snow in a 20 long
a snow in a 20 long
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