10 Gallon Tank Corie's 10G blackwater tank

Hello! This is my first time documenting a tank's build/journey. I really like the idea of using this space to map out the thought process, and use it to keep track of useful bits of information. The whole idea behind this tank was to build an environment around pygmy cories, there's something about them (along with ottos and kuhli loaches) that I just find so adorable. I had a 20G community tank that satisfied my kuhli / otto obsession, and now it's finally time for the cories to be mine!

The other focus of this tank is that it needs to be 'portable'. I move around a bit compared to the average person which is the reason I no longer have my original 20G. The hopes with this one is that with an uncomplicated hardscape focus, if I do need to move house in the next year or so, it won't be a complete headache to uproot and replace/replant per se.






Day 1. I got too excited and so don't have any step by step pictures... There's nothing complicated here though.

Equipment and all the inert things:

• Tank: 60 x 30 x 25cm, 5mm foam mat base. Taking into consideration the space taken up by hardscape and substrate, I'm dubbing it a 10G. It's second hand, hence the 8 in the corner, but I don't really mind it!
• Substrate: aquarium sand, 2-3mm with root tabs for plants. Pebbles from a previous tank. May add some natural looking gravel, or might just cover with more leaf litter.
• Hardscape: Three pieces of mangrove wood. The largest piece is what you can see in the left half, and two smaller pieces to mimic roots out to the side.
• Light: Aquael Leddy Slim (plant) 50-70 cm that I already had. The fun thing about the clip design is that I can have the light at a slight angle rather than pointing straight down. Only on for 3 hours at the moment as the tank gets quite a bit of indirect light.
• Filter: 340L/hr HOB. This was a really cheap one I picked up from my LFS, additionally fitted with intake sponge, more sponge media inside to replace the flimsy filter cartridge, and a bag of Seachem Matrix that I already had. The water outlet is pointed in one corner of the tank at the moment to minimise flow in the other corner.
• Heater: standard heater, only 25W that I had lying around but will be upgrading to 50w when livestock go in.
• Thermometer! In the corner of the tank out of the way so I can check temps quickly.
• Background: haven't decided yet, probably going to go for an opaque background because it's in my kitchen at the moment and black is a bit too dark.

Water parameters: GH 4, KH 1, pH 6. This is the lowest my current pH test kit goes to, and I have my suspicions that it's currently lower. Have ordered one that goes down to 4.5. Water params have remained roughly the same in the areas that I've lived in so not too concerned about maintaining blackwater requirements.

Stocking:

• Pygmy cories 8 is the maximum I can probably fit in here and have another school of fish. Might only do 6, we'll see.
• Glowlight tetras Aiming for 6. I remember wanting them for my first community tank but was afraid they'd look too washed out with the light background I was using at the time. Blackwater is their time to shine (heh).
• If it were up to me, I'd get a small school of Ruby tetra instead of the glowlights. I really like the tiny spots of white and black offsetting that strawberry red. Alas, they're very rare in Australia, I've not seen them in stock anywhere in the past ~3 years online or in person.

In terms of stocking order, I'll go with the tetras first, because I'm after a smaller group so the bioload will be smaller. They're also much more widely available and half the cost of the pygmy cories, so from a practical perspective if anything does go wrong with the tank in the first couple of months, it'll be a mite less heartbreaking.

Plants and botanicals:

• Various anubias and anubias nana petite
• Various crytocoryne spp. in the back center/right corner
• Impulse bought java fern because my LFS as selling quite a bit for a good price, but not 100% sure I want to keep them
• Dwarf rush in the left corner. If these don't work out I might replace with Brazilian pennywort or a bunch of pothos let it grow over the wood sticking out of the water
• Botanicals - had a stash of indian almond leaves, will be looking to collect alder cones, oak/magnolia leaves from my area.
• May add some red root floaters where the wood juts out from the water, might not if I go for the pennywort/pothos.

Day 6 More plants, and an inappropriate place to store the terracotta pots they came in!

Currently in the cycling/learning stage of setting up the aquarium, and I thought I'd list a lot of good information I found here too:

• Blackwater Basics FAQ by MacZ - really clear and important takeaway messages about how the aquarium cycles in <6.5pH
  
• Second only because it's relevant, my stocking question thread with further comments and answers by MacZ
  
• has lots of videos about blackwater set ups, some of them going a few years back. Varies from stocking to plants to different aspects of maintenance.
  
• The Secret History Living Inside Your Aquarium
  a 30min video going more slowly through the ecology around blackwater environments
  
  
  
• The Tint blog by Scott Fellman. Obligatory inclusion in this list. An almost inexhaustive collection of thoughtful and informative blog posts about the blackwater/aquarium hobby as a whole, rather than a to do list to follow.

I got my first tank in September 2019, went almost immediately to 4 tanks, then for the past 6 months back down to just one 10G (planted tank with a betta and green neon tetras). I'm excited to get back into the hobby again and try new things

 

My suggestion is to add Ambulia or Cabomba to this tank, which will give the pygmy's somewhere to spawn and will protect the young.

 

My suggestion is to add Ambulia or Cabomba to this tank, which will give the pygmy's somewhere to spawn and will protect the young.

I've tried Cabomba in a previous tank before, honestly could not fertilise fast enough for that plant! I'm hoping when the anubias roots grow in and when I add the pennywort (which will likely replace the java) it might create a similar effect? I’m in no rush to breed although it would be super cool to see a baby pyg. I’ve also read that pygmy cories can take up to 12 months to sexually mature pending how young the juveniles are when they arrive.

 

New pH kit arrived with the test tube smashed! Good thing I have a bunch from a master test kit. pH looking to be 5.5 which is kind of borderline for Glowlight tetras as far as I can see.

The test kit also said it went down to 4.5pH, however that’s only for testing saltwater apparently, the freshwater param only goes down to pH 5, which is a shade of red that looks ever so similar to pH 5.5 …

 

Good thing I have a bunch from a master test kit. pH looking to be 5.5 which is kind of borderline for Glowlight tetras as far as I can see.

5.5 is perfectly safe for them. Humic substances buffer in the range the fish will find comfortable.

The test kit also said it went down to 4.5pH, however that’s only for testing saltwater apparently, the freshwater param only goes down to pH 5, which is a shade of red that looks ever so similar to pH 5.5 …

Ignore the freshwater/saltwater problem, I repeat again: If your KH is below 2°, pH-driptests will give you erratic results with an error-margin of +/- 1.0 to 1.5 points.

If you really see a necessity in knowing the pH, get a pH-meter, take samples and add pure salt (NaCl) to it, then the conductivity is high enough for a pH-meter to give out proper readings.

 

Ignore the freshwater/saltwater problem

That was more just to complain about false advertising

error-margin of +/- 1.0 to 1.5 points

Just wondering if I can read about this somewhere or is it general experience? Would be good to know either way. Either way monitoring for a trend is more important than specific numbers I think.

5.5 is perfectly safe for them.

Good to know! It’s hard to find specific information about acidic tolerance ranges. Or is it safe to assume most Blackwater species can tolerate rather low pH with humic substances in the tank, as long as they are acclimatised properly and it’s not in flux? I’m wondering if a good time to add fish for the first time would be after a 100% water change, the pH would be closer to neutral (and more like the parameters at the store), and the slow drop over time would mimic drip acclimating?

 

That was more just to complain about false advertising

It's actually not, it's just irrelevant to your case.

Just wondering if I can read about this somewhere or is it general experience? Would be good to know either way.

The instructions to all pH-drip tests available here include this information. It is applicable to any tests based on the same chemical reaction.

Either way monitoring for a trend is more important than specific numbers I think.

Correct.

Or is it safe to assume most Blackwater species can tolerate rather low pH with humic substances in the tank, as long as they are acclimatised properly and it’s not in flux?

Flux is not a problem. High amplitude changes in short timeframes are the problem. Otherwise you can assume black and clearwater species to be able to easily cope with pH down to 4.5 to 5 easily. Under 4.5 I'd be a bit cautious, but that's it.

I’m wondering if a good time to add fish for the first time would be after a 100% water change, the pH would be closer to neutral (and more like the parameters at the store), and the slow drop over time would mimic drip acclimating?

Don't. A 100% waterchange has harsh impact on the microbiology in the tank in such extremophile conditions. Just do a drip acclimation. 1-2 drops per second would be standard. Let the store give you their parameters, ask for GH/KH and/or TDS, if their readings are more than double of yours go with the 1 drop/sec speed, if it's less do 2 drops/sec.

Patience is key.

 

If your KH is below 2°, pH-driptests will give you erratic results with an error-margin of +/- 1.0 to 1.5 points.

If you really see a necessity in knowing the pH, get a pH-meter, take samples and add pure salt (NaCl) to it, then the conductivity is high enough for a pH-meter to give out proper readings.

I have been trying this lately. With my drip test (no warning on it about low KH) I get 6.8. With a cheap pH meter I get a considerably higher result (about 7.5) using just tank water than when I add a tsp of salt to the sample (just ordinary table salt with iodine I suppose)- I then get about 6.9.

My son is supposed to be bringing me a TDS meter at the end of this month, I am interested to know the results of my tap and tank water.

 

It's actually not, it's just irrelevant to your case.

How so? The label says down to 4.5 for ‘fresh and saltwater’ on the external packaging.

The instructions to all pH-drip tests available here include this information. It is applicable to any tests based on the same chemical reaction.

Well that’s nice. All we have is immediate instructions to use the testing company’s pH up or down products if pH is not in the range you want.

High amplitude changes in short timeframes are the problem.

That’s what I meant when I said flux. Good to know though.

Just do a drip acclimation. 1-2 drops per second would be standard.

Out of curiosity does your approach differ when buying fish online? Or would it be if you haven’t done this before? Else I’ve seen the ‘put one drop of Prime’ into the water if still going to drip acclimate.

 

How so? The label says down to 4.5 for ‘fresh and saltwater’ on the external packaging.

The test works in fresh and saltwater. And down to 4.5, albeit only in saltwater. Factually it's correct. Technicalities... legally nothing wrong.
I can also explain why. In freshwater the 4.5 are only possible if the KH is below a certain level of, guessed it: 2°KH.
In saltwater this is not possible so the 4.5 are achievable for instance with acids.
Clever phrasing, but not false advertising. Aggravating, I know.

Well that’s nice. All we have is immediate instructions to use the testing company’s pH up or down products if pH is not in the range you want.

Yuck. Now that's something I despise.

That’s what I meant when I said flux. Good to know though.

In flux means random amplitude, constant changing. So e.g. +/- 0.3 10 times within the hour. Doesn't do anything. Only amplitudes over 0.5 within 10 minutes are relevant and the really bad ones are 1-3 pH-points in less than 30 minutes.

Out of curiosity does your approach differ when buying fish online? Or would it be if you haven’t done this before? Else I’ve seen the ‘put one drop of Prime’ into the water if still going to drip acclimate.

I think you're referring to the ammonium/ammonia switch... This doesn't happen instantly and the fish have to be in transit for several days.
As I only buy online very rarely and we exclusively have 12 hour overnight express delivery here for live fish the question doesn't crop up. There are only two possibilities usually.
The fish seem in peril in the unopened bag -> Plop&drop (open, chug into a net, add to tank asap, no matter what)
The fish are calm, no super stressed colour, temp still good -> Drip acclimation.

 

albeit only in saltwater

I mean that’s the whole point isn’t it. Can’t assume anything about KH if nothing is included in the info booklet about it. But back to topic.

Found a dead ramshorn snail that had fungus. I forgot how badly they smell when they die. Water change later and the driftwood is going to have to work at leeching tannins back in. Will probably go with the rooibos method when the time comes but I’m in no rush. ph back at <6 a day later. Adding some ferts and changing lighting duration because that new anubias leaf is looking mighty yellow.

 

Introducing.... the bravest lil Cory in the world! Chilling in the spotlight on his own.








Okay before anyone says anything, I KNOW. But I was watching this little guy for the past three weeks at one of the chain pet stores near my place, sharing a 5G with a chocolate gourami, a Buddha statue, and a bunch of dead snails and a dead Pygmy Cory (who eventually got removed) and I couldn’t leave him (her?) any longer. The plants are growing, there’s a nice layer of bio fuzz over the wood and some anubias, and I’ve seen some tiny worms on the glass. Params have been stable.

I drip acclimated him, once in the tank it took him a few hours to get settled understandably. I deliberately left a gap between the glass and the wood so they would have a place to hide (ideally it will fill in with crypts later on too) and from the side of the aquarium you could see him hiding there. A few hours later he was wriggling about, when the lights came on it scared him again, but now I can spot him 70-80% of the time. So cute!!

Will get more friends for him in another week or two. Unfortunately I might need to order them through the chain store I picked this guy up from. I work quite long hours so I wouldn’t trust being home in time for a delivery of fish, the weather’s been a bit wacky in my area as well and I don’t have a protected area where deliveries can sit. The other LFS I got most of my things through doesn’t supply them, although I’ll be getting my Glowlight tetras from them (although they look a bit skinny in store with lots of fin nipping going on).

In other updates... I had a pick through the backyard and found some aquarium suitable leaves and botanicals. Boiled for 30min, rinsed, then added. Didn’t add that many so hard to tell the difference in the photo, but in person the textures are much nicer than shredded IAL!

 

It is looking really good. I have also been collecting leaves and they do look better and last a lot longer than Indian almond leaves, but do not stain the water as much.

 

It’s fun to customise the tank with stuff you find locally! I wish there was a list for definitive aquarium safe plants. Especially with Australian natives.

I’ve been thinking about moving the anubias attached to lava rock in the middle of tank, it takes up a lot of the swimming space. But it seems to be the cory’s favourite spot so now I mustn’t touch it!

If I ever get the chance to upgrade I certainly will do so. In the meantime it’s so neat to have these guys on the table.

 

Brave cory’s title has been rescinded! He’s decided that the light is too scary for him now. Will only show his tiny face at lights out. This is the best view of him I’ve had in days. He’s managed to find somewhere to hide in the wood where I can’t see from any side of the aquarium, although that’s hardly surprising.




Hopefully when I get him new friends he’ll be braver. At the very least they can’t all squeeze their butts into this mysterious hidey place. He’s not in the leaf litter because I can always see him sauntering out as soon as lights turn off. Can’t even be tempted by feeding time... unlike his new friends!




It’s actually been a few days now and it’s been nice watching their fins grow back. The cory has tried to school with them but I think has quickly realised they’re not on the same wavelength. It’ll be another week or two until the store gets more of them in so he’ll just have to hang out until then.




There’s this one who turns so pale I was convinced she was sick except she body slams everyone out of the way to get to food (esp frozen), and when she’s swimming anywhere except that patch of sand she’s coloured up normally. She’s determined to blend into the sand I think.




And there’s these two males that are the total opposite of each other - I try to target feed the skinny one and he just gets shouldered out of the way by the blue arrow one who eats until his stomach looks like it’s about to explode. Wouldn’t it be tragic if I lost them both because we never found balance.

Last shot of the aquarium light on in a dark room. I am really enjoying the effect especially because in the dark you can’t see the mess around it! Adding some floaters next weekend.




Edit: Okay as soon as I complained about him to the Internet, he showed his face. Stared right at me for slander and proceeded to get very much in the way of the tetras’ spawning behaviour.





Ensuing chaos continued for almost an hour. Triggered after a feed of frozen brine shrimp/artemia and a ~25% water change. I tested the water almost immediately after I added it and interestingly you can see where the ‘new’ water is mixing with the old. Buffered back down to pH 5.5 within a minute or so. I didn’t notice this change previously because I was using a pump that added water more slowly, but this time I just used a bucket and tipped it in with my hand slowing the flow. The fish didn’t seem distressed, and the spawning behaviour started a few minutes later. I’ve never seen the pH test dual coloured though, and this was after shaking it. Neat. Probably should stick to the slower pump though huh.

 

We’ve added friends! Last weekend went into the city which is a few hours away, visited some of my favourite stores and picked up four of the last pygmy corys from a store that’s been running over 50 years. They’ve been doing well, the largest one has been the most outgoing of the bunch. The rest have made a bit of a home in what I call the chill cory corner, which is actually in full view and I don’t spook them as long I come up slowly.








The tetras are getting super fat as I try to feed enough that food gets to the bottom, including some sinking wafers after lights out. Still worried the corys are not getting enough food though, they can swim right past frozen and dry food and not even double back. I’m also torn between putting food in the areas they hide in to make sure they’re getting something versus deliberately leaving it in the front of the tank so they start to learn to come out there more. They have been picking the pre filter sponge pretty clean though which is nice - but again makes me worry they’re not getting enough food! I’ve never seen them feed midwater, even when they’re out and about and tiny bits of flake are drifting by. They never even try to go for it.

I’ll leave them for another few weeks I think before I add the last 3 corys to this tank and call it a day. I’ve not been around to watch the tank until after dark so activity is usually at a minimum so it’s been hard to tell how everything is going. Some algae is growing on the anubias leaves that are a bit too close to light, I’ve been really lazy about doing anything about it but I’ve covered some of the light with electrical tape now, hopefully can slow down the damage. Red root floaters are also in, almost didn’t survive the turbulent trip but new growth coming through fast!




Water params 0.5/0/0 which is in line with everything I’ve read about Blackwater tanks, pH 4.5-5.5 depending on what test I’m using which is also in line with what I’ve read, heh. Biofilm is taking over the edges of some of the first IAL that I put in, and all the crypts have been putting out new leaves which is nice to see too.

 

The tetras are getting super fat as I try to feed enough that food gets to the bottom, including some sinking wafers after lights out. Still worried the corys are not getting enough food though, they can swim right past frozen and dry food and not even double back. I’m also torn between putting food in the areas they hide in to make sure they’re getting something versus deliberately leaving it in the front of the tank so they start to learn to come out there more. They have been picking the pre filter sponge pretty clean though which is nice - but again makes me worry they’re not getting enough food! I’ve never seen them feed midwater, even when they’re out and about and tiny bits of flake are drifting by. They never even try to go for it.

Don't expect fish like Corydoras running for food like midwater dwellers. Feed stuff that spreads out over surfaces and the bottom, also with leaf litter and botanicals they have a lot of infusoria they can go for.
If you think it's not enough - Feed the tetras at the opposite end of the tank, so that food might reach the ground while they are occupied.
Also flakes are not really a suitable shape for your fish. Granulate is better, especially as it can be dosed much more accurately.

Water params 0.5/0/0 which is in line with everything I’ve read about Blackwater tanks, pH 4.5-5.5 depending on what test I’m using which is also in line with what I’ve read, heh.

How are you testing your pH? You know that drip tests won't give you reliable results if the KH is low.

 

I don’t expect them to run to food which is why it’s hard to gauge how much they’re eating. They’re small enough that it’s hard to judge by the shape of their stomachs. The tetras also have no problems picking at food on the floor so when sinking wafers disappear overnight it’s hard to say who really got to it. That’s why the flakes, the tetras aren’t able to catch every single crumb of flake and they eventually settle to the bottom of the aquarium where the corys have a higher chance of picking something up. I also feed granules too but the bigger tetras hoover them up before even the smaller ones can get a look in so best of luck to the corys.

I’m sure they’ll get by. Today I finally saw one going at a sinking pellet so it’s just a matter of time. Again the one behind it just sailed on by!

How are you testing your pH? You know that drip tests won't give you reliable results if the KH is low.

I found this website that had done a comparison of pH tests. The pH meters seem to read in a similar range to the JBL wide range one which I have found locally. I’ve tested the water at different times of day, after adding sea salt flakes in it, before and after water changes, and the pH reading doesn’t really change. There seems to be a margin of error with all ph testing methods so this one will have to do for now.

 

I found this website that had done a comparison of pH tests. The pH meters seem to read in a similar range to the JBL wide range one which I have found locally. I’ve tested the water at different times of day, after adding sea salt flakes in it, before and after water changes, and the pH reading doesn’t really change. There seems to be a margin of error with all ph testing methods so this one will have to do for now.

So which one did you use now? A drip test (JBL)? Or a meter (the salt suggests this)? Or both? Your answer seems a bit evading.

The comparison has pretty much the same results as a comparison in a german magazine a few years back. JBL has their headquarters about 200km from where I live, btw.

And yes, what I'm always saying: All test methods (besides not-too-cheap meters) have a margin of error. So it's almost funny to me if people here on the forum measure a difference of less than 0.5 and think it's a big drop or rise of that value.

 

I'm using the JBL one, which I said I found locally. Not sure how that sounds evading? Or what I’m evading? I was previously using the Fluval wide range pH drip test as mentioned. I used the salt out of curiosity just to see if it would change anything in the colorimetric test.

I mentioned the margin of error because based off the results of that article the JBL drip test seemed to display similar ranges to the less expensive pH meters, and I’m not looking to invest in a more expensive one. So the JBL test ‘will do for now’.

 

Ah, now that makes sense. Adding salt to a sample is the usual trick softwater aquarists use to make pH-meters work, as they need a minimum conductivity higher than most of our tanks have. That was confusing.

I stopped using drip tests, as their mechanism involves the KH and where there is no KH the results start to come out more off. My tankwater tests between 4 and 6 with the JBL test, even when tested back to back. A borrowed lab-standard pH-meter gave a result of 5 - 5.3 with a couple of samples I raised conductivity in with pure NaCl. So, while I got results all over the place with the drip test, I never got closer than 1.0 points to the very consistent results with the high-end meter. That's when I decided to stop testing pH altogether. I only borrow said pH meter once every 3-4 months and this year I always got roughly the same results so I expect a pretty stable average.

I would be happy if there was a pH drip test that reliably works in low KH water. Haven't found one yet. The JBL testkit, as well as the ProScan strips are stored in the back of my aquarium stand, unused for months now. The latter because there is nothing besides NO3 that's within their range anyways.

I only check with the EC/TDS meter and watching the fishes behaviour.

 

What about NH3/NH4+? I seem to have a spike to 2.0-4.0ppm (the colours look very similar). It was 1.0 ppm a few days ago. I noticed that the corys were all out swimming only after a water change (which I guess isn’t unusual for most fish) and also had some bubbles accumulating on the edge of the glass so tested again. I’ve been working late so most of the time when I see them they are pretty quiet, but still come out for food and are pretty enthusiastic about it. Will be water changing until it’s back under 2.0ppm.

The original IAL I put in the tank are starting to fungus, I’m wondering do I just leave it and let it become mulm or take it out during this spike?

 

The original IAL I put in the tank are starting to fungus, I’m wondering do I just leave it and let it become mulm or take it out during this spike?

Leave them. The mulm is the goal.

Otherwise: Yes, waterchanging is necessary right now, but not too quick to prevent pH from rising.

 

and also had some bubbles accumulating on the edge of the glass

This is normal after a water change.. if you mean a lot of little bubbles on the glass.

 

Ammonia back down <2.0ppm. Very strange. Only did two 20% water changes 12hrs apart and held off on one feed. Will do one more tomorrow.

This is normal after a water change.. if you mean a lot of little bubbles on the glass.

No, it was more like slow increase in amount of bubbles at the waterline against the glass over a few days. almost like a long bubble nest. No significant increase in protein film over water. I’ve read before that sometimes this can indicate ammonia so tested and what do you know. I know what you mean though with the little bubbles across the glass.

 

Ammonia back down <2.0ppm. Very strange. Only did two 20% water changes 12hrs apart and held off on one feed. Will do one more tomorrow.


No, it was more like slow increase in amount of bubbles at the waterline against the glass over a few days. almost like a long bubble nest. No significant increase in protein film over water. I’ve read before that sometimes this can indicate ammonia so tested and what do you know. I know what you mean though with the little bubbles across the glass.

Yes, I was thinking afterwards that is probably what you meant.

 

Bubbles increased again - ammonia back up again! I wonder if I’m hitting some sort of peak where leaf litter breakdown is speeding up now. I did sort of add most of them in the first two weeks. Remembered to take a photo of the bubbles but only after the water change so it’s less than what tipped me off before. It’s a fun albeit not super accurate ammonia meter




Also I went Amazon shopping and finally got a clip on macro lens to play with (clips onto phone camera). I’ve wanted to do this for ages now and am pretty happy with the results for the price it was! I’m never going to get any good shots of the corys unless they stop running away from the giant black thing following them but the tetras think everything might be food hehe.

 

So for the past week and a half I’ve probably been doing 20-30% water changes daily and just barely keeping ammonia at the 1.0-2.0ppm level. Today’s the first day it’s stayed under 2.0ppm after not water changing for a day. Hopefully the tank is settling down now going into Christmas. I feed pretty lightly, 3 sinking wafers and a pinch of microgranules (until the tetras aren’t catching every last bit) every second day, and some frozen food once a week before a water change.

One of the tetras has developed some fin rot on a dorsal fin, which surprised me because when they first came in from the shop all their nipped fins grew back really nicely. It’s actually the one in most of the macro shots above, it’s gotten a little worse since. Hoping it’s to do with the ammonia problem and now I’ve gotten it under control (mostly) it’ll heal up by itself. Not a fish catcher savant myself and not looking forward to having to do it.

I have managed to catch some shots of the corys with the macro lens though. The cuteness increases!!!

 

Oh one thing I didn’t mention was that I double dosed prime the last few times in case it was something in my tap water (haven’t tested the ammonia from the tap recently but last time was standard 0.25ppm on the API Kit). Started doing this the same time ammonia levels started staying down so interesting coincidence or direct correlation? Usual routine is I add water into a bucket with 2 IAL and add Prime, then let it sit for a day before I add it to the tank. Essentially just refilling the bucket after a water change to get ready for next time.

The dorsal fin on the tetra I mentioned last time is coming back nicely as well. As the tetras have grown I think I’ve miraculously gotten 2 males and 4 females out of a random catch at the shop. All corys also accounted for. The store hasn’t had a new group in, so my little school is still at 5. Perhaps a good thing going into the silly season, water changes bound to be missed.

 

Oh one thing I didn’t mention was that I double dosed prime the last few times in case it was something in my tap water (haven’t tested the ammonia from the tap recently but last time was standard 0.25ppm on the API Kit). Started doing this the same time ammonia levels started staying down so interesting coincidence or direct correlation? Usual routine is I add water into a bucket with 2 IAL and add Prime, then let it sit for a day before I add it to the tank. Essentially just refilling the bucket after a water change to get ready for next time.

If your tap is chlorinated with Chloramine the de-chlorinating process leaves you with minute amounts (that's your 0.25) of NH3 which in your water immediately change into NH4, which is pretty harmless. Also you use the API kit which is known for false positives... So why adding extra de-chlorinator? It doesn't do anything. Also the product you use is already concentrated in comparison to the average stuff. Don't overdo it.

 

Adding extra prime helps bind excess ammonia which I wanted to try bc of the fin rot I mentioned on the tetra, since I was already changing water so much. Good news is the dorsal fin is no longer a nubbin and has completely grown back! Ammonia for the last week has also remained around 1.0ppm. For reference I was adding about 1mL prime into 15L of tap water when the correct dose is about 0.4mL. I do let the water sit for about 15min to give it time to work (I heard this on a podcast where they talked to the rep).

The algae on the anubias dead center in the tank has gotten a bit out of control so we’re trying some drastic measures! The lower leaves that aren’t getting the same amount of light are fine so it’s interesting to see exactly how far the light is penetrating to become a problem. Not intending to spend more money at this point in the season and get another light so the new experiment will do. Adding another IAL might help too.

The red root floaters aren’t doing fantastic. 50% have melted, the rest are doing not bad. I’ve decided to salvage some and have moved them to the planted tank where they are doing much better. Pretty happy with the rest of the tank at the moment. My LFS also stocked some more pygmy corys! So my crew is finally complete. Although by last count I could only see 6/8 of them.