Ok thank you that makes me feel a lot better thank you.Swampgorilla said:Your ammonia is 0. It's 0 in your well water ... it's 0 in your TANK.
This is a common issue. I always have 0 ammonia in all my tanks but if I look at the test vial just the right way I'll swear it's .25.
And there's really nothing wrong with your test kit. Been through DOZENS of test kits and I still find it happens.
My advice ... if you think you have .25 ammonia in the tank - test your tap water. If it comes up looking the same - you have ZERO.
Are you using the test strips? If so those are always going to give false readings. I would go with a master kit.Cander said:I’m using API...nitrates are 20 nitrites 0 ph 8
I just test my well water and it said that there was .25 ammonia which isn’t right. I did research and it says that it’s uncommon to find ammonia in well water. So I just think that it was the test kit
For testing ph nitrites and nitrites I use the strips for the ammonia I use the bottlesA. Rozhin said:I'm curious about this issue -- so the fish are not affected by the ammonia already in the water the same way as the ammonia they create with their waste? Isn't ammonia ammonia?
But, if they both show ammonia, there IS ammonia in the water. You guys are going on the assumption that ammonia in your tap water is some kind of false positive. It's not false.Algonquin said:Do a side by side test (at the same time) - one of your tank water, one of your water out of the tap. See how they compare.
The test is pretty new maybe a month old.Algonquin said:Also, do a test with some bottled water, that you KNOW has no amnonia. See if you get a 0 reading on the test. Have you EVER had a 0 reading on your tap and/or your tank, or has it Always been 0.25?
How old is your test kit?
There is ammonia in lots of processed tap water. Google is your friend. Find out (spoiler alert: you'll find out there is ammonia in lots of processed tap water), rather than say "there shouldn't be." You don't really know. Why even post, if you can't even do cursory research. I can even tell you WHY there is trace ammonia in a lot of tap water. Not because it "seems right to me," or because I'm a water expert, but because I Googled it.Algonquin said:Ok, so it's not an old test kit that's long expired or anything like that.
So test some bottled 'pure' water, and confirm that you get a 0 reading. Then test your tap water and you'll see the colour difference. There 'shouldn't be' ammonia in your tap water, but it sounds like there probably is.
Ok so what I’m getting from this is to test bottled water see what the readings are. If I get that there is ammonia in the bottle water I know that my kit is off. But if there turns out to be ammonia in my well water what should I do then.A. Rozhin said:It's not so much the ignorance here, but the unwillingness to rise above it with just the smallest effort that gets me. And then the willfully ignorant advising other people who just want to learn to keep fish.
A. Rozhin is right ladies and gents. The nitrogen cycle doesn’t just refer to aquariums. It happens everywhere. If your well water has ammonia or nitrogen of some form, buy distilled water and use that for your water changes.A. Rozhin said:And from the Oregon Water Department, who did a national study on well water:
"Nitrogen compounds also can work their way into ground water through fertilizers, manure, and urine from farm animals, sewage, and landfills.
The most common forms in groundwater are ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite."
It's not so much the ignorance here, but the unwillingness to rise above it with just the smallest effort that gets me. And then the willfully ignorant advising other people who just want to learn to keep fish.
The bottled water is your control group. Test bottled, then tap/well, then tank. If it turns out all three shows ammonia, your kit is off. If it turns out tap and tank show ammonia, that's ammonia in your tap water, and the nitrogen cycle will take care of it just as if it came from a fish. You just need to allow for it and watch that it doesn't creep up past that amount, which means you are in a minI cycle. As long as you know your parameters, you can allow for them in your assessment of what to do with your readings. Good luck! I'd like to see how it turns out, the ammonia issue is interesting to me.Cander said:Ok so what I’m getting from this is to test bottled water see what the readings are. If I get that there is ammonia in the bottle water I know that my kit is off. But if there turns out to be ammonia in my well water what should I do then.
With respect, you don't want distilled, then you have to end up adding minerals back in. Your best course of action is R/O water (almost all "spring water" in the grocery store is regular water purified with reverse osmosis). Your only issue then is watching that the pH isn't too low (most R/O comes in at about 6.5). IMO, distilled water is a very bad choice.Jake21 said:A. Rozhin is right ladies and gents. The nitrogen cycle doesn’t just refer to aquariums. It happens everywhere. If your well water has ammonia or nitrogen of some form, buy distilled water and use that for your water changes.
Fish constantly produce ammonia, but if the biofilter is good, it is almost immediately changed to nitrite, then nitrate. Wherever the ammonia comes from, the biofilter will make these changes, whether endemic in the tap water, produced by fish, combination, etc.Redshark1 said:If ammonia is a naturally occurring compound why are we insisting on it being zero? That's not natural.
If fish produce ammonia constantly how can we ever achieve zero ammonia? That would be illogical.
I get the impression people are not using logic when discussing ammonia.
Surely all we need to achieve is total ammonia below the toxic level since we have agreed what level is toxic through scientific study.
The river near my house has total ammonia at 0.3 ppm.
My tap water has total ammonia at 0.25 ppm.
My five tanks have total ammonia at 0.25 ppm (one of them for 24 years).
My water butt (with no fish) has ammonia at much less than 0.25 ppm (yellow).
In my community free ammonia is considered toxic by the authorities at 0.02 ppm.
For my pH and temperature total ammonia becomes toxic at 2.5 ppm (i.e. produces 0.02 ppm free ammonia) if I believe the science.
So I don't worry about 0.25 ppm total ammonia because this is a tenth of the limit given and I have always found this figure when fish are present in my water.
I think what Redshark1 wants to say, is that with his pH the free ammonia (NH3) is below the threshold to be considered toxic. The API test kit doesn't discriminate between NH3 or NH4, it will give you the total value. So having a reading of 0.25ppm doesn't necessarily mean you are killing your fish or smoking a cigar in your kid's bedroom while they sip on your moonshine out of asbestos cups.A. Rozhin said:Fish constantly produce ammonia, but if the biofilter is good, it is almost immediately changed to nitrite, then nitrate. Wherever the ammonia comes from, the biofilter will make these changes, whether endemic in the tap water, produced by fish, combination, etc.
If you test your ammonia in your tank and it does not come up 0, your fish are suffering. If you don't worry about .25 ppm ammonia, that's fine. Some people let their kids sleep in rooms with asbestos ceilings. Some people smoke cigarettes around their kids. It's always your choice, how you care for those who are in your care.