Columnaris Treatment

Hi,
Looking to start salt treatment for columnaris ASAP, read that I should do 3 treatments in 12 hour increments of 1 tsp per gallon. Just wondering how long should I wait before a water change and how long do I leave the salt in?

Thanks

 

Honestly, if it’s columnaris, I’d skip the salt and go right to antibiotics. Its a very aggressive infection.

 

Honestly, if it’s columnaris, I’d skip the salt and go right to antibiotics. Its a very aggressive infection.

I bought antibiotics too, I might have to consider them first! Thank you very much

 

Here, read this thread, it'll help guide you on treaatment options: Columnaris Symptoms And Treatment

 

Honestly, if it’s columnaris, I’d skip the salt and go right to antibiotics. Its a very aggressive infection.

Also just to add to this, it has been around 2 months since my ONE tetra has been exhibiting colourless fins. I tried with melafix for a week, that didn’t work. The scales are still light. Lots of people have concluded it is the slower strain of columnaris. I IMMEDIATELY took out that tetra after reading the forums, and none of the other fish in the tank have any symptoms after 24 hours. So should I treat the ‘healthy’ tank with aquarium salt Just to kill any potential bad bacteria, or begin straight with meds as you said before ? Thank you kindly for your help

Here is the fish in quarantine for 2 months. Somebody said that it could be an injury, silly me placed him back into the main tank after 2 months (none of the fish in quarantine received the decease) somebody then replied about the columnaris, then I immediately took out the neon tetra from the main community tank after 20 minutes as it looks like it has the slower strain of columnaris. I just need to know how to go about treating the community tank in case they now are prone to this disease. Remember the infected fish was only in for 20 mins

 

I can’t see the picture!

 

I can’t see the picture!

 

My approach to Columnaris is to provide the best care in terms of the water quality and other things the fish need for a healthy life.

Hopefully the fish will fight off the disease in time as some of mine have.

If a fish continues to exhibit major signs of Columnaris without improvement I may cull it to prevent suffering and to protect the others.

The picture supplied suggests that may be the case here.

I have sometimes waited over a year before taking this extreme measure because I have patience and optimism.

I haven't found that medications cure the cause of the disease and there are several reasons why this may be the case.

Adding medications can decrease the suitability of the environment for the fish and make things worse.

The disease may have been on the fish when it was purchased and was not cured at the fish farm where antibiotics are used routinely.

Using antibiotics in the aquarium may not work either because of resistance.

It can be difficult getting the right antibiotic into the animal in the right quantity especially if the disease is inside the body tissues.

By the time the disease is noticed the disease may be too far advanced to be treatable.

The conditions that the fish is currently kept in may not be suitable to the fish and this may lead it to be more susceptible to disease and make it more difficult to cure.

 

Tank

• What is the water volume of the tank? 3 gallons
• Does it have a filter? yes
• Does it have a heater? yes
• What is the water temperature? 79-80F
• What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) One male veiltail betta

Maintenance

• How often do you change the water? Usually every 3-5 days, but have moved up to every other day for the last few weeks
• How much of the water do you change? 25-30%
• What do you use to treat your water? Prime
• Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? Vacuum 1/3 - 1/2 of the substrate with each water change

Parameters

• Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? No, but it has been cycled for almost three months
• What do you use to test the water? API freshwater kit
• What are your parameters? We need the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.

Ammonia: had been 0 for months; 0.5 this morning
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10-20
pH: 7.4

Feeding

• How often do you feed your fish? Once a day with additional treats 1-2x a week; fasting 1 day per week
• How much do you feed your fish? 3-4 pellets daily with 2-3 frozen bloodworms as a treat 1-2x a week
• What brand of food do you feed your fish? Nutrafin Max, soaked in a drop each of Vitachem and Garlic Guard
• Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods? Yes, see above

Illness & Symptoms:

• How long have you had this fish? almost 4 months
• How long ago did you first notice these symptoms? A few weeks ago
• In a few words, (more room for details below) what are the symptoms? Whitish gray patches - started as very small spots on his pectoral fins
• Have you started any treatment for the illness? Paraguard (no longer using), aquarium salt, Jungle Fungus Clear, Kanaplex
• Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase? No
• How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all? He is resting a lot more, though he still patrols his tank between rests. The whitish gray patches have spread to his left gill plate and the left side of his body. One of the patches was slightly fuzzy initially, but the fuzziness went away after a day or two of Paraguard. Appetite is still good.
  

I posted this on the Freshwater Beginners forum a few days ago and didn't get a response, so I'm hoping someone here can help. I'm desperate for some advice. (ADMIN: If you need to delete one of the two posts, please delete the earlier post since it wasn't getting any traction. Thanks.)

Several weeks ago I noticed some small white spots on Kabuki's pectoral fins. I thought they were an injury (looked like a video I saw of pectoral fin fractures) and upped his water changes. Other than that he was acting fine. The spots got smaller and I thought they were healing, then about two weeks ago I noticed them getting larger. Not long after that a grayish white patch appeared on his left gill plate. It looked slightly fuzzy, so I started dosing with Paraguard since I wasn't sure what I was dealing with. The fuzziness went away but the patch remained. KabukI was acting like himself the whole time.

The patches are spreading, but still limited to his left side, around the gill plate, and a little on his side and under his chin, as well as both pectoral fins. I think now I'm dealing with one of the slow forms of columnaris (pretty sure he'd be dead by now if it was one of the fast moving forms). He's resting a lot more than usual, though he still swims around for a few minutes at a time. He doesn't seem to have any trouble swimming, he just seems to get tuckered out quickly. Thankfully his appetite is still good.

I did some research and started with a low concentration of aquarium salt immediately since I had it on hand. I couldn't find Furan 2 or Kanaplex locally, so I picked up some Jungle Fungus Clear since it has the same active ingredient as Furan 2 and started him on that Saturday evening. Through the beauty of social media, I located a generous fishkeeping neighbor who gave me some Kanaplex to tide me over until I can get it from Amazon. I put the first dose in his tank Sunday around noon. I gave him a second dose of Kanaplex late this morning.

KabukI seems to be responding somewhat to treatment. He was more active yesterday and this morning, and his appetite is still good -- but the grayish areas still seem to be spreading and he's been resting a lot since I got home a little while ago.

So I need some help with the dosing schedule since I didn't start both meds at the same time. The Fungus Clear is supposed to stay in the tank for 4 days, 25% water change, then re-dose if needed. The Kanaplex is every two days (doesn't say anything about water changes) for three doses. So, when I change the water for the Fungus Clear, do I re-dose the Kanaplex for the amount of water changed since I'll be between doses of Kanaplex at the time of the water change? Or should I just wait an extra 18 hours, do the water change, and re-dose the Fungus Clear and Kanaplex at the same time?

For the first time in months I had an ammonia reading this morning - 0.5, so I'm concerned the meds might be affecting the cycle (though the research I did said they shouldn't . . .). Or perhaps there are just more uneaten bits of food in the tank since I haven't done a water change since I started the meds. (The water is slightly cloudy today as well.) I added some Prime to the tank and the Seachem ammonia monitor is now back to 0, but wonder if I should do a water change anyway. If so, how would that affect the med schedule/dosage? Should I try adding some BB or would it just get killed off by the meds?

Also, when should I discontinue treatment? Do I continue until the patches have cleared up completely? I've read you can do up to 6 doses (two days apart) of Kanaplex, then should take a break for a week or more. Not sure about the Fungus Clear. I don't want to stop too soon and have a flare up, but I also don't want to over medicate him.

Any other advice? Sorry for so many questions, but I'm new to all this. I'm really attached to the little guy and would hate to lose him. I wish I could figure out what caused this. Up until today, his tank parameters had been perfect since October and, as far as I can tell, there hasn't been any stress. (We should all have so great a life!)

 

These are the best photos I could get this morning.

 

Hello, I'm sorry to hear that you didn't get much response from your first thread - our bad.

First of all, I do not believe your betta has columnaris. I think he'd be dead by now if it was. From the pictures he looks well: his color is vibrant, he is swimming near the surface so he is still breathing air with his labyrinth organ, and he is still eating. How long have you had him?

 

All the bettas I've ever had love exploring their new tanks when I first get them, but then they stop exploring as much once they've seen everything. It's perfectly normal.
Bettas also seem to loose patches of color in their gill area as they age. I don't know if this is the case though because you said you saw some fuzz as well.

I suggest stop using the meds for a week or so and see how he does. I believe the best way to treat bettas is with clean water and if there is something, a salt bath. Also, for the extra uneaten food, I suggest using a pair of tweezers for picking up a few flakes at a time and make sure he eats them before adding more flakes. I've always done this with all my bettas and it not only prevents uneaten food causing an ammonia spike, but it also prevents bloating.

If you decide to continue the meds, make sure you aren't overdosing and that the meds you are using can be dosed together. Most meds kill live plants and bacteria. Since a tank's cycle depend on the BB (beneficial bacteria) that grow in the filter cartridges, that could throw off the cycle. I think that's why your ammonia was a little high. You may have to do water changes more frequently. But also, doing water changes takes the meds out of the water. So, you just need to find a balance of what works. It's hard to keep that balance in a 3 gallon tank as well. The larger the tank, the more stable the cycle is.

I hope this helps! Sorry no one answered earlier.

 

Hello, I'm sorry to hear that you didn't get much response from your first thread - our bad.

First of all, I do not believe your betta has columnaris. I think he'd be dead by now if it was. From the pictures he looks well: his color is vibrant, he is swimming near the surface so he is still breathing air with his labyrinth organ, and he is still eating. How long have you had him?

I've had him almost 4 months. His behavior has changed significantly in recent weeks and those white/grayish patches on his body make me think there's something wrong. I've done a lot of googling and the closest thing seemed to be one of the slow growing forms of columnaris. He's still eating and swimming, but is much more lethargic. He's barely moved since I got home a few hours ago. Also, the color changes are only on one side.

 

All the bettas I've ever had love exploring their new tanks when I first get them, but then they stop exploring as much once they've seen everything. It's perfectly normal.
Bettas also seem to loose patches of color in their gill area as they age. I don't know if this is the case though because you said you saw some fuzz as well.

I suggest stop using the meds for a week or so and see how he does. I believe the best way to treat bettas is with clean water and if there is something, a salt bath. Also, for the extra uneaten food, I suggest using a pair of tweezers for picking up a few flakes at a time and make sure he eats them before adding more flakes. I've always done this with all my bettas and it not only prevents uneaten food causing an ammonia spike, but it also prevents bloating.

If you decide to continue the meds, make sure you aren't overdosing and that the meds you are using can be dosed together. Most meds kill live plants and bacteria. Since a tank's cycle depend on the BB (beneficial bacteria) that grow in the filter cartridges, that could throw off the cycle. I think that's why your ammonia was a little high. You may have to do water changes more frequently. But also, doing water changes takes the meds out of the water. So, you just need to find a balance of what works. It's hard to keep that balance in a 3 gallon tank as well. The larger the tank, the more stable the cycle is.

I hope this helps! Sorry no one answered earlier.

The color changes are only on one side, and there are definite white patches and fraying/loss of his pectoral fins (especially on the left - the side with the color changes), so I don't think this is just aging - though I have no idea how old he was when I got him. I've had him about 4 months.

 

Hello, I'm sorry to hear that you didn't get much response from your first thread - our bad.

First of all, I do not believe your betta has columnaris. I think he'd be dead by now if it was. From the pictures he looks well: his color is vibrant, he is swimming near the surface so he is still breathing air with his labyrinth organ, and he is still eating. How long have you had him?

Forgot to mention that I took these pictures while he was being fed (it's the only time I can get a halfway decent picture, so that's why he was at the surface. And no worries about the delay in responding. With the bustle of the holiday season, I'm sure people have been spending less time on the forum.

 

I've had him almost 4 months. His behavior has changed significantly in recent weeks and those white/grayish patches on his body make me think there's something wrong. I've done a lot of googling and the closest thing seemed to be one of the slow growing forms of columnaris. He's still eating and swimming, but is much more lethargic. He's barely moved since I got home a few hours ago. Also, the color changes are only on one side.

The color changes are only on one side, and there are definite white patches and fraying/loss of his pectoral fins (especially on the left - the side with the color changes), so I don't think this is just aging - though I have no idea how old he was when I got him. I've had him about 4 months.

Hmmm... yeah, you're right that something isn't right. It's so strange though that it's only on one side. The little I've researched about columnaris (a few years ago now so I admit I am rusty) seems like it may be caused by a parasite. Have you come across any information like that, and are some of the meds you are dosing for possible parasites?

 

Hmmm... yeah, you're right that something isn't right. It's so strange though that it's only on one side. The little I've researched about columnaris (a few years ago now so I admit I am rusty) seems like it may be caused by a parasite. Have you come across any information like that, and are some of the meds you are dosing for possible parasites?

I originally thought it might be parasites (I think I saw two or three instances of flashing, but they were so few and far between I wasn't sure), so I used Paraguard and low dose aquarium salt for several days, but it kept getting worse. Obviously, I have Paraguard on hand. I also have API General Cure, but didn't try that.

 

Ok. So walk me through some things here. Forgive me if this is asking you to repeat some information.
He has "patches" on one side of his body. What is their texture of them now? You said there was some fuzzies, but now the fuzz is now gone right?
He is still eating, because that's when you took the pictures. Is that the only time he comes up to the surface? Does he lay on the bottom of the tank or does he float suspended in the water?
How often did you do water changes before you started and after you started dosing meds?

 

Ok. So walk me through some things here. Forgive me if this is asking you to repeat some information.
He has "patches" on one side of his body. What is their texture of them now? You said there was some fuzzies, but now the fuzz is now gone right?
He is still eating, because that's when you took the pictures. Is that the only time he comes up to the surface? Does he lay on the bottom of the tank or does he float suspended in the water?
How often did you do water changes before you started and after you started dosing meds?

I haven't noticed anything fuzzy for a several days. Yes, as of this morning he's still eating. This morning (and previously) he was swimming around his tank, taking breaths at the surface, etc., even when he wasn't being fed, but in between he would lay at the bottom of the tank for much longer than he had been when he was behaving normally.

I was away most of the day today. He came out briefly after I got home, but since then he's either been laying at the bottom of the tank, or resting/sleeping inside his log (that's where he is now).

Prior to him looking/acting strange I had been changing his water every 3-5 days (25-30%). Since he hasn't been himself, I've upped it to every other day until I started on the Jungle Fungus Clear (instructions said not to change the water for 4 days). He's due for a change tomorrow evening.

 

I think I would have seen some improvement by now if the Fungus Clear/Kanaplex combo was working, so I may try something else. I think I'll put the carbon back in the filter overnight to clear out the meds, do a water change in the morning and then decide what to do if he's still hanging in there. I may try the API General Cure, since the other thing that sort of matched his symptoms was gill/body flukes (though he doesn't seem to be struggling to breathe). If anyone disagrees with that plan of action, please let me know ASAP. I really don't know what to do at this point.

 

I haven't noticed anything fuzzy for a several days. Yes, as of this morning he's still eating. This morning (and previously) he was swimming around his tank, taking breaths at the surface, etc., even when he wasn't being fed, but in between he would lay at the bottom of the tank for much longer than he had been when he was behaving normally.

I was away most of the day today. He came out briefly after I got home, but since then he's either been laying at the bottom of the tank, or resting/sleeping inside his log (that's where he is now).

Prior to him looking/acting strange I had been changing his water every 3-5 days (25-30%). Since he hasn't been himself, I've upped it to every other day until I started on the Jungle Fungus Clear (instructions said not to change the water for 4 days). He's due for a change tomorrow evening.

I think I would have seen some improvement by now if the Fungus Clear/Kanaplex combo was working, so I may try something else. I think I'll put the carbon back in the filter overnight to clear out the meds, do a water change in the morning and then decide what to do if he's still hanging in there. I may try the API General Cure, since the other thing that sort of matched his symptoms was gill/body flukes (though he doesn't seem to be struggling to breathe). If anyone disagrees with that plan of action, please let me know ASAP. I really don't know what to do at this point.

The Fungus Clear/Kanaplex must be working because the fuzzy stuff went away. I think you should continue through that treatment as long as the meds say to treat for.

I wouldn't put carbon into the filter because that takes the meds out of the water. That is my opinion though based on some reading I did a while ago for ICH meds. If you did some research specifically for your meds that say adding carbon would be good, by all means do what you think you should do. Keep doing the water changes you are doing.

Have you tried giving him a salt bath as a treatment?

It may be hard to tell if a betta has flukes or not since they don't breathe through their gills. There are betta-hammocks that can either float on the water surface, or suction cup on the side of the tank that way the bettas can rest but be close to the surface so they can breathe.

 

The Fungus Clear/Kanaplex must be working because the fuzzy stuff went away. I think you should continue through that treatment as long as the meds say to treat for.

I wouldn't put carbon into the filter because that takes the meds out of the water. That is my opinion though based on some reading I did a while ago for ICH meds. If you did some research specifically for your meds that say adding carbon would be good, by all means do what you think you should do. Keep doing the water changes you are doing.

Have you tried giving him a salt bath as a treatment?

It may be hard to tell if a betta has flukes or not since they don't breathe through their gills. There are betta-hammocks that can either float on the water surface, or suction cup on the side of the tank that way the bettas can rest but be close to the surface so they can breathe.

The fuzziness went away while I was using the Paraguard, but the discolored patches continued to spread. That's what prompted me to try the stronger medicine, but the patches are continuing to spread so I'm not sure if the current regimen is doing any good.

I was only suggesting using the carbon to remove the current medication if I decided to treat him for parasites instead.

He already has a betta hammock, which he has been ignoring lately. Right now he prefers to hang out at the bottom of the tank. I guess he wouldn't do that if his gills were compromised.

I haven't tried a salt bath, but I have added aquarium salt to his tank. How do I do the baths?

I'm so confused. I wish I knew for sure what was wrong so I would know how to help him.

 

The Fungus Clear/Kanaplex must be working because the fuzzy stuff went away. I think you should continue through that treatment as long as the meds say to treat for.

I wouldn't put carbon into the filter because that takes the meds out of the water. That is my opinion though based on some reading I did a while ago for ICH meds. If you did some research specifically for your meds that say adding carbon would be good, by all means do what you think you should do. Keep doing the water changes you are doing.

Have you tried giving him a salt bath as a treatment?

It may be hard to tell if a betta has flukes or not since they don't breathe through their gills. There are betta-hammocks that can either float on the water surface, or suction cup on the side of the tank that way the bettas can rest but be close to the surface so they can breathe.

Good news! This morning KabukI swam right out of his log to greet me and beg for food. He ate his usual breakfast with gusto. The spots on his fins definitely look better and the patches on his body look the same. I'm glad they've stopped spreading. So now I think I am on the right track with treatment and will stay the course.

That still leaves the question of timing for the medication. He is due for the water change for the Fungus Clear this evening, but he's not due for his next dose of Kanaplex until late tomorrow morning. Any thoughts?

I'm considering changing the water on schedule this evening, adding just a bit of Kanaplex to make up for what's lost during the water change, and giving him a slightly smaller dose of Kanaplex in the morning.

The other option I'm considering is putting some carbon back in the filter for a few hours before the water change to clear out both meds. Then removing the carbon and starting with a full dose of both meds after the water change.

Any opinions on which option is better?

 

Good news! This morning KabukI swam right out of his log to greet me and beg for food. He ate his usual breakfast with gusto. The spots on his fins definitely look better and the patches on his body look the same. I'm glad they've stopped spreading. So now I think I am on the right track with treatment and will stay the course.

That still leaves the question of timing for the medication. He is due for the water change for the Fungus Clear this evening, but he's not due for his next dose of Kanaplex until late tomorrow morning. Any thoughts?

I'm considering changing the water on schedule this evening, adding just a bit of Kanaplex to make up for what's lost during the water change, and giving him a slightly smaller dose of Kanaplex in the morning.

The other option I'm considering is putting some carbon back in the filter for a few hours before the water change to clear out both meds. Then removing the carbon and starting with a full dose of both meds after the water change.

Any opinions on which option is better?

Wonderful! I'm so glad he's starting to get better! I definitely think you're on the right track.

My suggestion is to do a small water change, 25-30% maximum. Vacuum the substrate especially to get any waste or uneaten food to eliminate ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes. Then continue treatment. I don't think you should use any carbon when dosing meds. Carbon will just make the meds ineffective. Smaller water changes should be enough to "refresh" the water while keeping the medicine effective.

 

Also, if you go with the smaller water changes, keep an eye on the water parameters. Test it twice a week or so, like on a wednesday and over the weekends, just to make sure there isn't an ammonia spike. Bettas don't make a lot of waste either, so you shouldn't have any troubles as long as you don't overfeed him.

 

Wonderful! I'm so glad he's starting to get better! I definitely think you're on the right track.

My suggestion is to do a small water change, 25-30% maximum. Vacuum the substrate especially to get any waste or uneaten food to eliminate ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes. Then continue treatment. I don't think you should use any carbon when dosing meds. Carbon will just make the meds ineffective. Smaller water changes should be enough to "refresh" the water while keeping the medicine effective.

He's continuing to improve slowly. The discolored patches on his body are still there but aren't spreading anymore and he was definitely perkier today, though he still gets tired easily. I also started him on methylene blue baths a few days ago and he seems almost normal for an hour or two afterwards so I know they're helping him feel better.

I've started him on a second 6 day course of kanaplex today and will probably do at least one more four day treatment of the fungus clear unless someone tells me it's dangerous. I don't want to stop treatment if I'm seeing progress.

 

Also, if you go with the smaller water changes, keep an eye on the water parameters. Test it twice a week or so, like on a wednesday and over the weekends, just to make sure there isn't an ammonia spike. Bettas don't make a lot of waste either, so you shouldn't have any troubles as long as you don't overfeed him.

I got a small ammonia spike (0.5) a few days after starting the kanaplex, so I dosed the tank with Prime. A few days later it was down to zero again. Then this morning it was back to 0.5 even though the seachem ammonia monitor reads 0. I dosed the tank with prime again to be on the safe side. All the other parameters are fine. Nitrites are 0 and nitrates are 5 to 10. I read that kanaplex might cause a false positive ammonia reading so I'm hoping that's all it is. He's due for a water change tomorrow so that should help.

 

I got a small ammonia spike (0.5) a few days after starting the kanaplex, so I dosed the tank with Prime. A few days later it was down to zero again. Then this morning it was back to 0.5 even though the seachem ammonia monitor reads 0. I dosed the tank with prime again to be on the safe side. All the other parameters are fine. Nitrites are 0 and nitrates are 5 to 10. I read that kanaplex might cause a false positive ammonia reading so I'm hoping that's all it is. He's due for a water change tomorrow so that should help.

It is probably kanaplex that is causing the ammonia false reading, or killing the BB in your filter so the ammonia builds up faster. Prime will help and/or water changes.

I think you're doing great in treating him. Keep up the good work!

 

What is better to treat this? I ordered API Furan 2 that will come Th,, and Seachem Kanaplex to come Fri (it’s Tuesday right now). The fish started acting oddly yesterday night (Monday). He’s my fave fish. I just want to know which Medication to use (or both). I haven’t removed him bc I have to treat all 30 gallons and my tank is acrylic so I REALLY don’t want to dye the water If I don’t have to.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.

Fair enough thank you. The only other pics I have are these. I don’t want to turn lights back on and honestly this is all there IS to show! The white areas look like they’re floating up when he swims you can’t tell in the pics. It would be like dead skin on a human being so it’s def above the fish body like floating off a bit. And the brown spot above lip and then a little fin rot on the back fin very small. I can ABSOLUTELY turn lights back on but this is all it looks like BUT I will take more pics if it will help. It’s hard bc he won’t move into any other areas.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.

I’ll take more now.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.

 

First don't treat until you know the disease. Second don't create multiple threads on the same issue. I know you are panicking but at least give people a chance to respond. Also more pictures from different angles might help folks. I can't tell diddly from this picture which you posted in both threads.