Co2 system for a 60gallon CUBE

ZeroSum
Member
Im looking into a co2 system for my tank and i need to know what size tank and what a standard settings to use it. ( never used co2 before outside liquid stuff. Also an aquarium newbie so any information is welcome
 
Zigi Zig
Member
For 60.Gal tank you will need Co2 complete system..


Your settings will be depend on what kind of plants you gonna have if you are aquarium newbie maybe try start with smaller tank and practice with DYI system first before you step in to expensive part.
Tips: Co2 and fertilizer in soil and water has to be balance correctly and most important be your lights where most aquarist makes mistakes. If is not set correctly you be dealing with algae and other major issues...
IMG_20180803_191513759.jpg
 
  • Thread Starter
ZeroSum
Member
Zigi Zig said:
For 60.Gal tank you will need Co2 complete system..


Your settings will be depend on what kind of plants you gonna have if you are aquarium newbie maybe try start with smaller tank and practice with DYI system first before you step in to expensive part.
Tips: Co2 and fertilizer in soil and water has to be balance correctly and most important be your lights where most aquarist makes mistakes. If is not set correctly you be dealing with algae and other major issues...
IMG_20180803_191513759.jpg
I see your canister. I am wrestling with some parameter problems right now so i wouldnt be getting on right this second only because i know on top of things co2 can throw off ph. Just trying to get an idea of what ill need and mabey some recomwndations. I have rotala wallichi, myrio green and red, dwarf sag, juncus ripens and one banana plqnt because i like them lol. I know most of these wont need it but will benefit from co2. Ive just never set up a co2 system. Would like it if my dwarf sag would carpet more. Trimmed some leaves so mabey it will send out more runners. I appreciate the info though zig and that looks like a pretty nice setup! (not that id actually know)
 
SotaAquatics
Member
For a basic set up with a 60 gallon:

5-10 lb CO2 tank - you will need to find a local place for refills/swaps. Most places do swaps so they take your tank and give you a different one, basically like propane for grills. Because of this, I would suggest not buying a really nice empty CO2 tank online, just find the cheapest one you can as it will most likely be exchanged when you go to fill it. Some places will also sell filled CO2 tanks so you could just pick one up there. Cost of your first filled CO2 tank including the tank can be around 100-140 dollars, swaps/refills are about 15-30. Check out local welding supply shops for usually the best prices/availability. A 10 lber will be bigger and more expensive, but obviously last twice as long.

CO2 Regulator - most important part of the set up, this is what releases CO2 from the pressurized cylinder into your aquarium. Usually this is the most expensive part as well but you don't need anything too fancy here, a single stage regulator will work fine from a respectable brand. I personally like Green Leaf Aquariums, they have a basic single stage for 150. Some people swear by duel stage regulators and this is primarily due to what is more or less a 'myth' of "end of tank" dumps, where once the cylinder pressure drops to a certain point all remaining CO2 is released into the aquarium. This is really only an issue with very poorly made single stage CO2 regulators and even then is a very rare occurrence.

Solenoid valve - most decent CO2 regulators will come with one of these included. Basically this is a little electronic device on the regulator that turns it on/off. It can be plugged into an outlet timer so your CO2 schedule is strict and consistent as far as when CO2 turns on and off for the day. If you do not have a solenoid valve then your CO2 will either run 24/7 wasting about 2/3rds of it, or you have to manually shut off/on your regulator/cylinder every day and have to readjust the bubble count. Consistency is the most important aspect with CO2 injection.

Bubble Counter - this is a little vial of water that connects to the regulator and then to CO2 hose to tank. Basically all this does is help give you an idea of how much CO2 is going to your tank, this is usually counted as BPS (bubbles per second), however with a 60 gallon, you will probably be using more BPS then you can count. These should be included with most regulators.

CO2 Hose - This is special hose that is CO2 resistant. Normal airline hoses are more prone to letting CO2 permeate through, causing a small loss of CO2. CO2 hose reduces this loss to negligible.

CO2 Diffuser/Reactor - this is how your CO2 gets put into your aquarium, it can be as simple as a little ceramic diffuser, or various DIY reactor designs that mix the CO2 with aquarium water before it goes into the tank. Personally with a 60 gallon I think you are better off with a reactor or equivalent, and run it inline with a canister filter. The CO2 will be fully dissolved in the water so you will avoid having micro bubbles filling up your aquarium plus you should get better disbursement of CO2 through the tank, and its less tank clutter.

pH swings with CO2 are irrelevant for vast majority of aquarium livestock. It has no impact on the KH - which is what actually impacts livestock. The below article will explain it a lot better than I can.

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  • Thread Starter
ZeroSum
Member
This is EXACTLY what ive been looking for! Thank you very much. I first have to get my current problem with my tank under control but uve bee. Serious about getting a co2 system and having my tank thrive. Thank you very much im going to save this info, very much appreciated
 
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