Co2 In 10 Gallon

Phikmis
  • #1
I am still fairly new to the live plants and aquascaping aspect of fish keeping so I am looking for advice. I have several species of plants in my ten gallon and I'm hoping to get some of them to carpet the bottom of the tank. CO2 seems like a good option to enhance their growth. What is the best method for a diy co2? How many bpm and measurements? May I see your set ups? Pictures would be great ☺
 
mbkemp
  • #2
When I took this step I bought a setup off amazon that uses citric acid and baking soda. I made this choice because I read it was more stable and easier to control. The kit was @$15, used 2 2 liter bottles and then citric acid and soda. The only change I made to it was a "better" needle valve, again from amazon. I measured the kh in my aquarium and then measured ph drop to find a range of co2 concentration that seemed right. I would do it again
 
mbkemp
  • #3
I used this system long enough to feel confident in how it all works. I retired mine and purchased a kit from gla. If I had to do it all over the only thing I would do differently would be to buy a smaller bag of citric acid
 
Phikmis
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
Are the 2 2 liters appropriate for such a small tank like mine? What ended up being the right co2 concentration?
 
mbkemp
  • #5
I think so You can control the citric acid very easy. I aimed for about 30ppm. I watched my fish closely. Very easy to see it it was too much
 
mbkemp
  • #6
I will look to see if I still have a picture
 
mbkemp
  • #7
I will need to figure out the pictures. That's not the kit but the result of the kit
 
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-Mak-
  • #8
I use the two bottle DIY kit, but instead of baking soda and citric acid I use yeast and sugar.
 
Phikmis
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
I use the two bottle DIY kit, but instead of baking soda and citric acid I use yeast and sugar.
Would local chain petstores like petsmart and petco have extra tubing and the valves that I need? What specific vavles do I need so I can find them?
 
-Mak-
  • #10
Would local chain petstores like petsmart and petco have extra tubing and the valves that I need? What specific vavles do I need so I can find them?
Yes they should, but the kit (got it on eBay) had tubing that came with it. It's softer than the one I got here in the US too, which I like because it made it easier to attach to the check valve, bubble counter, and diffuser.

By valves do you mean kind of like a regulator to control CO2 output, or a check valve to prevent back siphoning?

And I'm using this in a 3 gallon, so your 10 gallon should be no problem.
 
Phikmis
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Yes they should, but the kit (got it on eBay) had tubing that came with it. It's softer than the one I got here in the US too, which I like because it made it easier to attach to the check valve, bubble counter, and diffuser.

By valves do you mean kind of like a regulator to control CO2 output, or a check valve to prevent back siphoning?

And I'm using this in a 3 gallon, so your 10 gallon should be no problem.
I think I was looking for check vavle and bubble counter. Do you have a picture of yours?
 
-Mak-
  • #12

image.jpg
They both take a lot of effort to fit into the airline tubing, but it was easier because I used the tubing that came with the DIY CO2 kit, which is softer and more flexible than the one I got here in the US.
 
mbkemp
  • #13
I finally found and old picture
 
kayaker241
  • #14
Forgive the length but I want to be thorough.... I have been wanting to put a CO2 system on my 10 gallon as I cannot keep many plants in it without them dieing off (which I have determined to be low CO2 based on a CO2 checker). I'd like a co2 system but there is a big caveat... I bought everything for a paintball setup but found out that in a city of over 400,000 people there is only one place left that refills paintball tanks and they told me to my face that is the reason why they charge $15 per fill (for a 20oz tank). I never see anyone in the parking lot of the place so I suspect they will be belly up at some point soon. The home brew store won't do it because the pressures they deal with they feel are unsafe for such a small tank. The paintball range 12 miles away won't do it if you don't play paintball and are only open on weekend (I work weekends). I have a 5lb tank for my kegerator but switching the tank back and forth would be a pain and tough on seals of the equipment which is asking for leaks. The CO2 generator setups don't seem to be worth the trouble for a tank this small as it wouldn't take much to overdo it and those seem to be 'trial and error'. The fluvel mini setup get costly with co2 cartridges and has horrendous reviews online. Do I have any options that don't include a set up more expensive than my tank and all it's contents (including the fish)?
 
Zach72202
  • #15
Well, you can get CO2, but there is an investment cost.

First I would like to ask what your Co2 PPM is in the tank and what is going wrong with your fish tank and plants. It may not be a Co2 issue and investing into that may cause more problems and heartache. I'd like to know what plants, tank size (dimensions), and what light you are using.

If you want to go Co2 no matter what, here is the quick rundown of what you'd need.

You can go all out and get like a 20lb cylinder from Airgas welding supply (or any welding supply) that they replace co2 tanks. They do a renting system, never bought them, but just go there and ask and they will tell you. Also you need a cylinder first, just find one on facebook marketplace or craigslist for like <50$. Try to find one that is up to date though. They do not fill them at all. Replacing a 20lb cylinder is about 50$ or less from what I have heard, but that much for a 10g tank would last you like 5 years or more. After that you will want a Dual stage regulator with a solenoid so you can put it on a timer. Then you need line and a diffuser. The regulator is the expensive part, but once you have all of that stuff replacing a diffuser and line every now and again is cheap.
 
Nickguy5467
  • #16
co2 art sells regulators pretty much everything you need, regulators, diffusors, drop checker etc. i have the pro SE one from there if you want a second set up. you can also purchase a regulator with 2 blocks so you can run a line to each of your tanks and not have to switch them. i have a 5lb tank of co2 and keeping desired levels, it lasts me just about all year(i have a second one to switch in before it empties) refils are like 25 bucks. i just bought the second tank i mentioned and was 108 dollars. definitely cheaper than buying those stupid cartridges(i started with those)

20lb cylinder would last you a long time but you could also get 2 5lb or two 20lb if you want lol. but i think 5lb would last you aabout a year and the refills are pretty cheap and the best part is i dont have to wake up and turn it on thanks to timers

edit: i said that wrong. run one larger co2 tank to 2 fish tanks. so maybe a larger cylinder like the 20 would be good for running two tanks on co2 as 5lb would probably last half a year. unless thats fine and what you can afford. if its anything like my place.
 
kayaker241
  • #17
I live in a small apartment so a 20 lb CO2 canister is not practical and seems just plain overkill for a single 10 gallon tank. I don't know the ppm on CO2 but according to the checker bulb the color is a deep dark blue which tells me that the CO2 is low in the aquarium. All the parameters are nice and level accept for the pH which is a around 7.8 and the water in my area is a bit on the hard side. My remarkably chill betta, two harquin rasporas, and a nerite snail that c$@ps like I didn't think possible, are all very active always exploring. I have nutrient tabs in the substrate and dose regularly with flourish. One of my java ferns has been on the verge of exploding for some time as it has 12 little new plants hanging off the end of the leaves. Java moss has grown but it's been very slow. The other java fern is definitely not as bright a green as it once was since adding the pennywort. I had hornwort initially but it suffered the same fate the pennywort is suffering right now. Only thing that makes sense is the CO2 issue from what I can deduce.
 
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Zach72202
  • #18
Well the reason I suggested 20lb tank (the tank itself is about 28 inches tall) is because it is the smallest tank you can find readily available. 10lb tanks exist yes, but good luck finding a place to exchange/fill them. With a good regulator on a 20lb tank you can control the amount of Co2 going into the tank so you don't cause any issues.

From the sounds of things it doesn't sound like a Co2 issue. Sounds more like new plants and maybe an underpowered light. For some reason I didn't read the part where you said 10g tank, which is my bad, but I would still like to know what kind of light you have on the tank.

Plants growing is literally a chemical reaction where your limiting factor is either 1) Co2, 2) Light, 3) Nutrients. If you increase nutrients you need to increase light or you get algae. Too much Co2 and you kill fish/get algae. Too much light and not enough of the other 2 you get algae. All 3 have to be in a balance to where they are getting 'used up' at about the same rate by the plants to make a tank 'balanced'.

If you could put an image of the tank into the thread here and what kind of light you have, that would be very useful. I am not really worried about parameters as it seems your fish are doing good from what you said.
 
kayaker241
  • #19
Well the reason I suggested 20lb tank (the tank itself is about 28 inches tall) is because it is the smallest tank you can find readily available. 10lb tanks exist yes, but good luck finding a place to exchange/fill them. With a good regulator on a 20lb tank you can control the amount of Co2 going into the tank so you don't cause any issues.

From the sounds of things it doesn't sound like a Co2 issue. Sounds more like new plants and maybe an underpowered light. For some reason I didn't read the part where you said 10g tank, which is my bad, but I would still like to know what kind of light you have on the tank.

Plants growing is literally a chemical reaction where your limiting factor is either 1) Co2, 2) Light, 3) Nutrients. If you increase nutrients you need to increase light or you get algae. Too much Co2 and you kill fish/get algae. Too much light and not enough of the other 2 you get algae. All 3 have to be in a balance to where they are getting 'used up' at about the same rate by the plants to make a tank 'balanced'.

If you could put an image of the tank into the thread here and what kind of light you have, that would be very useful. I am not really worried about parameters as it seems your fish are doing good from what you said.
 

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Nickguy5467
  • #20
haha i love the floating sea mine
 
kayaker241
  • #21
Here are some photos. My phone's camera is not the best. Take the brightness down about 20-30% in the pic and that will give you an idea. I currently am floating my pennywort
Also I did find a place for refilling the canister for far cheaper. Went to a neighboring town to get it done right at a paintball field (I managed to get in touch with the owner). The tester bulb still shows really dark blue so little CO2 in the water. My fish love it when I float live plants Especially the betta. The lid is the stock lid on the Aqueon 10 kit from petco. It's a series of 9 decent sized cool white LEDs. I've been impressed with the kits performance thus far. I'll post a pic of the lid as well. No specs on how bright the lights are but there has been some algae on the glass but my snail eats some and I cleaned the glass off with a magnetic scraper so there is still some on the gravel line. I keep my light on for 10 hours each day. My smart home system controls most of it for now timers would probably be better in the long run. It will now control my CO2 as well and start it an hour before the lights kick on and shut off an hour before they go out. About 1 bubble per 1.5 - 2 seconds for now. My diffuser sucks but that can be remedied.
haha i love the floating sea mine
Found that at Walmart. You can adjust the length of the metal chain. The sell a 2 pack of smaller short ones as well. Mine is the bigger one and its is fully extended I think. Gotta be somewhere on Walmarts website.
 

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Zach72202
  • #22
I hate to say it, but it is as I expected. The kit lights that come with a tank aren't really strong enough to grow many plants. You might be able to do some moss, but most other plants need more light. Your limiting factor in growth is light, not Co2.

I would get a glass hood for a 10g tank at a petsmart, LFS, or wherever really and get a light to grow some easy plants.

If you want something cheap, I would suggest the NiCrew ClassicLED Planted Plus, get the 18-24 inch one. If you want something a bit better look into a Finnex stingray. The NiCrew is about 30, and the finnex is about 50 in that length. I have a NiCrew on my 10g and its not even the Planted Plus one and the tank is about solid flame moss, does great no ferts and no Co2.
 
BruinAquatics
  • #23
For a beginner Co2 and smaller tank co2 i would suggest diy co2. You can get some kits for pretty cheap and citric acid and baking soda works the best and are the cheapest.

You'll need a bottled co2 generator kit, a solenoid, needle valve, check valve, gauge, optional saftey valve, bubble counter, drop checker, co2 rated tubing, suction cups and a diffuser. A cheaper kit (not including the diffuser or drop checker), will cost about 30-40 dollars depending on the brand. A more expensive will probably cost like $100
 
kayaker241
  • #24
Awesome. Thanks for all the tips guys! I have a CO2 kit up and running as I'd like to grow more than moss and I will look into the light as well. I have a couple people at work that I might be able to hit up for some cheap plexiglass and I can cut my own lid if they haven't thrown it all away from when they had it up for covid since it's all been taken down now from the all the restrictions being lifted in my state.
 
Zach72202
  • #25
Awesome. Thanks for all the tips guys! I have a CO2 kit up and running as I'd like to grow more than moss and I will look into the light as well. I have a couple people at work that I might be able to hit up for some cheap plexiglass and I can cut my own lid if they haven't thrown it all away from when they had it up for covid since it's all been taken down now from the all the restrictions being lifted in my state.

I wouldn't recommend plexiglass. I have tried it lol. The hot inside of the tank plus the cooler outside causes it to warp really easily. It becomes a problem fast. Glass lid is honestly much better.
 
SouthAmericanCichlids
  • #26
If plants don't have enough of the three basic elements for them: Co2, ferts, and light. They won't be able to use more of any. That's how there are stronger ferts for lower ph (Which=higher Co2) because they can use more. But without a strong light in addition, it can't use all the Co2 nor all the ferts. You can get by without ferts for some plants and Co2 for most (Because there is already a significant amount in the water). But a light it the one thing, if you don't want to buy a light, I would advise against Co2. Pogostemon stellatus Octopus i've heard to work w/out a strong light.
 
kayaker241
  • #27
Got the new light on the tank and I have both channels programed with on/off times. Big improvement on the one that came with the tank.
 

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Zach72202
  • #28
What light did you end up getting? Just curious.

I hope you start to see some improvement!
 
kayaker241
  • #29
I went with the nicrew classic led gen 2. Many reviews said it's a good bang for the buck for a small tank. It an improvement on the first gen and this one has got a timer to switch on and off the blue and white LEDs. There is already a small improvement as a couple of the plants are putting off a constant stream of bubbles and the rest look to be producing bubbles under their leaves. Photosynthesis looks to be running well for now.
 

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