Clown Loaches - ich infested - Page 3

goldface

I’m not so sure you’ll get dead Clowns, but okay. It’s not like I have any. But I’ve used Malachite Green on “sensitive” fish like otos. I know Redshark1 owns Clown Loaches and has experience with curing them of ich.
 

Dycofree

Did you use a half dose with the Rapid Cure? Sorry if I am coming off as a jerk, just frustrated and not getting anywhere. Apologies. Its such a small outbreak yet so frustrating. I seriously only have 3-4 spots total right now, yet it stays consistent. My other fish have never/dont have any spots. Their immune systems have always been able to fight it off. Whats your opinion on the removal of the decor in the meantime to aid in vaccing?
 

TexasDomer

I wouldn't use salt with the clown loaches, and I don't think you need to remove all the decor.

If you're swapping to meds, don't use heat at the same time - too stressful on the fish.

Some ich is heat resistant, so meds can be a good thing to try now.

Are you sure it's ich? Some other things can cause white spots too.
 

Dycofree

I wouldn't use salt with the clown loaches, and I don't think you need to remove all the decor.

If you're swapping to meds, don't use heat at the same time - too stressful on the fish.

Some ich is heat resistant, so meds can be a good thing to try now.

Are you sure it's ich? Some other things can cause white spots too.
Yeah I’m 100% its ich. Responded to the temperature increase initially by going through its cycle faster but always seems to bounce back in a small fashion. So you would recommend bringing the temperature back down now while continuing with meds? I'm going to finish out the herbal meds for the full ten days to give it a chance. After that, what am I looking at here? I really don't want to stain the silicone in my tank and would hate to use a med that's too harmful for the clowns. Also, if I decrease the heat, how offen should I be gravel vaccing? I wonder if the daily vaccs along with the heat+meds is causing enough stress to keep it present
 

goldface

I agree wot TexasDomer. The fact ghat you say you only see a few spots made me wonder, but you did say it’s been off and on. But that still sounds odd.

As far as the med I used, no I just did the full dose.

Edit: ok, just read your other post to TexasDomer. The med stains the water for only a few seconds and clears out. I haven’t had any silicone staining.
 

Dycofree

Ok it makes me feel better to begin to lower the temps. Ive hated keeping it so high for so long. If this herbal stuff doesn't knock it out then Ill be moving on to something stronger like I said. Ive heard many have had good successs with Nox Ich so I may try that out at a half dose. Any other recommendations?
 

TexasDomer

Meth blue and malachite green can stain it permanently though. I've read a half dose should be used with clown loaches, but I'm not sure if that's still effective against ich.

It still wouldn't hurt to be gravel vaccing a few times a week.
 

OneLittleBubble

Try cupramine it worked for my fish. I just looked up if clown loaches were scaleless because that's what I always thought, but apparently, they have small scales embedded in their skin.
 

Dycofree

After seeing no flashing from other fish (not the clowns) for some time, I just saw a barb flash. I am so frustrated with this whole situation!
 

TexasDomer

I would not use Cupramine in your tank. It's risky to use copper - it'll kill your inverts, and it can stay around in the tank for a lot longer than you planned, preventing you from keeping inverts in the future too.
 

OneLittleBubble

All you have to do is do a large water change and put carbon in your filter then wait. Personally I think cupramine works the best
 

Dycofree

I would not use Cupramine in your tank. It's risky to use copper - it'll kill your inverts, and it can stay around in the tank for a lot longer than you planned, preventing you from keeping inverts in the future too.
What med would you recommend then? I am so tired of this whole situation. Been dealing with it for way too long
 

TexasDomer

Maybe Paraguard (it has malachite green in it)? You could try dips if you didn't want to add it directly to your tank. Might be good to start with half doses, then increase slowly over the next few doses if they handle it well.
 

Dycofree

Maybe Paraguard (it has malachite green in it)? You could try dips if you didn't want to add it directly to your tank. Might be good to start with half doses, then increase slowly over the next few doses if they handle it well.
Ok, I will look into Paraguard. And try dips? Sorry not sure what you mean by that. If you mean mixing it with tank water before adding it then yes that is what I would do.
 

TexasDomer

No, I mean filling a container with dechlorinated water and adding the half dose of Paraguard, then putting the fish into it, leaving it for a few minutes, then moving it back to the tank. This is so you don't have to treat the whole tank.
 

OneLittleBubble

They are literally the same thing. Do what you want.
 

TexasDomer

Treating the whole tank and doing dips are not the same thing at all. Each have their pros and cons.
 

OneLittleBubble

No, I mean filling a container with dechlorinated water and adding the half dose of Paraguard, then putting the fish into it, leaving it for a few minutes, then moving it back to the tank. This is so you don't have to treat the whole tank.
That's not a good idea because all you are doing is weakening the parasites then putting them back into the infected tank, you are supposed to put it in the tank to kill all parasites, not some parasites. You are also supposed to use full dose half dose will not do as much because the parasites are protected beneath the slime coat.
 

TexasDomer

The Paraguard will kill the parasites as well. And yes, normally I agree that you want to treat the whole tank for ich, but there are workarounds if OP is worried about the fish's sensitivity to these meds.

And full doses right away could kill these fish. So no, sometimes you need to do things a little bit differently.
 

OneLittleBubble

Still think you should use cupramine、 you are basically doing the same thing and I am pretty sure cupramine is cheaper.
 

TexasDomer

It's more harmful to other things in the tank.
 

Dycofree

I'm going on nearly 3 months with ich now. I finally decided to turn my temperatures down from 88 a week ago as I felt awful for the other fish being in such high temps for so long and it didnt seem to be helping. I did daily gravel vaccs for 2 months and nothing improved. I also had been dosing with her al medicines for a month as well and nothing seems to help. I am in a constant state of 1-3 loaches having 1-2 spots a piece. My severum will sometimes develop one spot on its tail fin but that's the extent that Ive had it all this time. Is it time for me to shift to strong meds?

When I turned the temps back to normal it was in an effort to maybe eliminate some stress of having temps so high as well as me gravel vaccing daily and it seemed to work for a week until I woke up this morning to see that it was back
 

Redshark1

If you are not overstocked and your cycle is working OK I would personally treat the tank.

I have used Malachite Green based med King British WS3 to shift stubborn Whitespot shortly after puchasing my six Clown Loaches. Five of the six fish were cured with this at normal dose. I used this cure because of its value for repeatedly treating my large tank of 110g.

On one fish I used it in quarantine at double and then triple strength and was successful in curing it as the fish continued to feed on live bloodworm and keep its strength up.

I've not had whitespot again in the following 24 years.

I think your Whitespot will have come in with your Clown Loaches.

"King British Original Formula WS3 White Spot Control is a veterinary medicine for the treatment of fish infected with White Spot. Also known as Ich or Ichthyopthirius, this is a persistent protozoan parasite that exhibits itself as pinhead-sized white spots. Costia & Trichodina can also be controlled with this product. Suitable for both coldwater & tropical aquariums. WS3 is our strongest strength formulation against white spot - One 50ml bottle will treat up to 4,500 litres of tank water.

Active Ingredients: Malachite green (4% solution) 10.0% w/w, Acriflavine 0.05% w/w, and Quinine sulphate 0.04% w/w."
 

Dycofree

If you are not overstocked and your cycle is working OK I would personally treat the tank.

I have used Malachite Green based med King British WS3 to shift stubborn Whitespot shortly after puchasing my six Clown Loaches. Five of the six fish were cured with this at normal dose. I used this cure because of its value for repeatedly treating my large tank of 110g.

On one fish I used it in quarantine at double and then triple strength and was successful in curing it as the fish continued to feed on live bloodworm and keep its strength up.

I think your Whitespot will have come in with your Clown Loaches.

"King British Original Formula WS3 White Spot Control is a veterinary medicine for the treatment of fish infected with White Spot. Also known as Ich or Ichthyopthirius, this is a persistent protozoan parasite that exhibits itself as pinhead-sized white spots. Costia & Trichodina can also be controlled with this product. Suitable for both coldwater & tropical aquariums. WS3 is our strongest strength formulation against white spot - One 50ml bottle will treat up to 4,500 litres of tank water.

Active Ingredients: Malachite green (4% solution) 10.0% w/w, Acriflavine 0.05% w/w, and Quinine sulphate 0.04% w/w."
Wow! Thank you for this recommendation! I am definitely going to look into this right now! It didnt have any ill affects on the loaches? How about plants? I really appreciate this

Edit: I am in the states and this product would arrive between June 6-10, which is rightt when Ill be leaving for vacation for a week. If this is the stuff you trust I will go with it, however I may not be able to treat for 3.5 weeks or so. If this is my best option (I have heard Rid Ich is great too?) then is there anything you would recommend doing in the meantime?
 

Redshark1

I have no reason to doubt other products with the same ingredients and if experiencing the same time constraints I would not hesitate to use them immediately. I used WS3 because it allowed me to treat my tank more times for the same price.

There were no ill effects on my loaches and I did not lose any of them even though I unwisely purchased very tiny thin fish.

I mention the triple dose because it shows that contrary to generally accepted wisdom Clown Loaches, even tiny weakened individuals, can tolerate whitespot meds.

I have heard of more resistant strains of whitespot occurring which are difficult to shift.
 

bciver

just saw a few white spots on my clown loach in QT tank. What to do?
 

FishBoy101

just saw a few white spots on my clown loach in QT tank. What to do?
Image, parameters, stocking, tank size?
 

bciver

Image, parameters, stocking, tank size?
Just a basic 20 gallon tank with 3 2” clown loaches
 

FishBoy101

Just a basic 20 gallon tank with 3 2” clown loaches
Image and parameters?
 

bciver

Image and parameters?
7.6 PH, 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 0.25 ish nitrate
 

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FishBoy101

7.6 PH, 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 0.25 ish nitrate
I'd raise the temperature to 84-86 ish. Next get some aquarium salt, for dosage, you shouldn't be asking me. I heard 1tbs for 5 gallon.

I would stay away from medications, they seem to not do much and harm the fish- all at once.
 

bciver

I'd raise the temperature to 84-86 ish. Next get some aquarium salt, for dosage, you shouldn't be asking me. I heard 1tbs for 5 gallon.

I would stay away from medications, they seem to not do much and harm the fish- all at once.
Temp is at 86. Not going to do salt with clowns. Honestly just hit water and lots of water changes should do the job?
 

FishBoy101

Temp is at 86. Not going to do salt with clowns. Honestly just hit water and lots of water changes should do the job?
Yeah.
 

bciver

I have 2 clown loaches in my 75 gallon cichlid tank. I just moved them into here from the quarantine tank a few days ago as I thought they were Ich free. I am now seeing a couple white spots on one of them. The other one doesn’t have any on him. They are still eating, and being very active. I have an open 20G that I could move them into, but I don’t want to stress them out. I am doing daily 25% water changes. I have 0 ammonia. The tank is at 80 degrees. I DO NOT want this to spread and I really want to stop this right now as I am planning on ordering new cichlids soon. How do I stop the ich fast.
 

jkkgron2

Well, I’d guess all the fish are infected so I would raise the temp to 86°F for 2-3 weeks and do 25% water changes every other day to oxygenate the water, plus maybe add an air stone.
 

bciver

Well, I’d guess all the fish are infected so I would raise the temp to 86°F for 2-3 weeks and do 25% water changes every other day to oxygenate the water, plus maybe add an air stone.
Am I going to be able to beat it?
 

jkkgron2

Am I going to be able to beat it?
Yes, ich is a pretty easy disease to kill if treated early.

EDIT: I would treat the main tank. There’s probably some ich floating around in there that you’ll need to kill so I wouldn’t try to treat in a different tank.
 

bciver

Yes, ich is a pretty easy disease to kill if treated early.

EDIT: I would treat the main tank. There’s probably some ich floating around in there that you’ll need to kill so I wouldn’t try to treat in a different tank.
I think I caught it about as early as I can. I lost my last fight with it cause I was too lazy and basically all I did was crank up the temperature.
So, to be clear, I can have the tank at 86 degrees with cichlids and the rest of my fish in there, and if I do 25% water changes every day, and keep doing that for the next 2 weeks, I will beat this? Guaranteed?
 

jkkgron2

I think I caught it about as early as I can. I lost my last fight with it cause I was too lazy and basically all I did was crank up the temperature.
So, to be clear, I can have the tank at 86 degrees with cichlids and the rest of my fish in there, and if I do 25% water changes every day, and keep doing that for the next 2 weeks, I will beat this? Guaranteed?
Nothing is guaranteed. You may need to do this for longer than 2 weeks, usually 2-3 weeks is how long it takes because you want to wait a week after all the spots disappear. Sometimes you’ll want to wait 2 weeks. However, this is one of the best methods so I think that it will work and you shouldn’t lose any fish.
 

bciver

Nothing is guaranteed. You may need to do this for longer than 2 weeks, usually 2-3 weeks is how long it takes because you want to wait a week after all the spots disappear. Sometimes you’ll want to wait 2 weeks. However, this is one of the best methods so I think that it will work and you shouldn’t lose any fish.
So I am just wondering... why shouldn’t I move the clown loaches to a separate tank?
 

jkkgron2

So I am just wondering... why shouldn’t I move the clown loaches to a separate tank?
Because there will be some juvenile ich in the water, which needs to be treated. You’ll just end up with the same problem as before if you treat in a different tank and add them back.
 

bciver

Because there will be some juvenile ich in the water, which needs to be treated. You’ll just end up with the same problem as before if you treat in a different tank and add them back.
Lol... just came down to look at the tank and he no longer has any white spots... I will keep treating it though
 

Chris1212

When one of my fairly new fish came down with Ich 4-5 weeks ago I thought I needed to move them to a QT but the fish store reassured me you just need to treat the tank since it is the tank that is infected, not just a fish or two. I used Nox Ich which got rid of everything. Not sure how tolerable loaches are to it though.
 

jkkgron2

When one of my fairly new fish came down with Ich 4-5 weeks ago I thought I needed to move them to a QT but the fish store reassured me you just need to treat the tank since it is the tank that is infected, not just a fish or two. I used Nox Ich which got rid of everything. Not sure how tolerable loaches are to it though.
Yeah, meds can work but heat is a bit better and easier on the fish.
 

Darla4022

I need help with what the treatment for ick on clown loaches, I already lost 2 loaches, I have water temp on 88 degrees for last 2 weeks, but temp went down to 82, for a few days beforehand I realized it, so I increased it back up. Is there any meds I can use on the loaches to rid the ick?? I need to do something pretty quick if possible! Tia
 

A201

I believe "Rid Ick" advertises that it's safe for scaleless fish.
 

Darla4022

I need help with what the treatment for ick on clown loaches, I already lost 2 loaches, I have water temp on 88 degrees for last 2 weeks, but temp went down to 82, for a few days beforehand I realized it, so I increased it back up. Is there any meds I can use on the loaches to rid the ick?? I need to do something pretty quick if possible! Tia
Thank you so much for the fast reply! I got that rid ick and separated them and are being treated! Hopefully I’m not too late on these two! Again thank you!
 

Darla4022

Well apparently this is not ich! I have a small loach on his way out at this moment, I have had him in very warm water, added rid ich, added pimafix and still covered head to tail and has gotten even worse. here are some photos, can anyone id what the heck this is????????? tia
IMG_6862 - Copy.jpg
 

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A201

When dosing meds there is no need to up the temp over normal ranges, 75 - 80 degrees.
Judging from the pics, the problem appears to be Ick. Most Ick treatments take ten - fourteen days to clear things up.
Clown Loaches aren't all that durable as compared to other scavengers. Meds are very hard on them.
 

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