Clear PVC Cement for Submerged Background

CloudClimber23

I'm in the process of making 3D backgrounds using spray foam. I'm trying to find a quick, efficient and cheap clear sealant.
I can't find anything regarding the safety of clear pvc cement as decor sealant. Does anyone have any experience using it that way? My understanding is if it's used for potable applications that in general it's safe but will it stay dry and cured fully submerged v.s. just to bond pipes?
 

John58ford

I'm sure it will not re-wet, and water chemistry would be safe.

I'm not sure it's safe in this application though; coating a flexible foam with a relatively non-flexible poly based cement will likely end up chipping/flaking and being eaten by fish and invertebrates that inhabit the tank. Even just filling the tank with water can crack a hard coating as the pressure compresses the foam. Could also theoretically come off by hitting it with the siphon, or any rasping by plecos.


That said, there are epoxy resins used for marine (boat) or food service use that would cure thicker and remain flexible. Sadly I haven't found a good "clear" yet. I usually end up just coating my stuff in a few layers of cement for durability, then coating it in dyed pond armor or drylok; both of which remain flexible after cure.


You could try the cement and let me know how wrong my assumption is though, I honestly haven't tried it as clear coat, but do use it on my fittings so I'm pretty familiar with it's results.
 

CloudClimber23

I'm sure it will not re-wet, and water chemistry would be safe.

I'm not sure it's safe in this application though; coating a flexible foam with a relatively non-flexible poly based cement will likely end up chipping/flaking and being eaten by fish and invertebrates that inhabit the tank. Even just filling the tank with water can crack a hard coating as the pressure compresses the foam. Could also theoretically come off by hitting it with the siphon, or any rasping by plecos.


That said, there are epoxy resins used for marine (boat) or food service use that would cure thicker and remain flexible. Sadly I haven't found a good "clear" yet. I usually end up just coating my stuff in a few layers of cement for durability, then coating it in dyed pond armor or drylok; both of which remain flexible after cure.


You could try the cement and let me know how wrong my assumption is though, I honestly haven't tried it as clear coat, but do use it on my fittings so I'm pretty familiar with it's results.
Thanks for the feedback, I doubt I'll go that route but if I do I'll double back with the results.
 

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