Cherry Shrimp Dying

Discussion in 'Cherry Shrimp' started by MD_Plants, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. MD_Plants

    MD_PlantsWell Known MemberMember

    I ordered 15 cherry shrimp from Aquatic arts. in the bag, one was dead but all the others were fairly active and swimming around. This is my first time keeping shrimp has a side note. The aquarium was a week or so old but the sponge filter was pre seeded and i used plants and sand from another tank. 3 days ago i see it. A dead shrimp. I checked to make sure it wasnt a molt and confident is wasnt. since then i have had 4 more die. I received a GH and KH test kit today from API and concluded it takes 12 drops to turn 5 ml water green (GH) and 7 drops to turn it yellow (KH) I live on well water, all products dont use copper, i use special shrimp food, Ph of around 7.6, on another test it says my GH is 200 ppm, no nitrite and low nitrate. How can i save my shrimp? they were drip acclimated for an hour and a half

    also dont think its a molting problem i added a tiny cuttle bone when the tank first was setup
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 13, 2018
  2. Timmy1027

    Timmy1027Valued MemberMember

    Sorry to hear that. Did you test ammonia in your tank? If it is a new tank, I don't think 1 week is enough for establishing nitrogen cycling system.

    Also, not sure why you have different GH reading. But high GH can cause trouble when shrimp molts.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 13, 2018
  3. itsEmma

    itsEmmaValued MemberMember

    I live in London where we have very hard tap water, ph 8+, GH at least 15 and KH around 10! When I first got shrimp ,just like yours, mine were regularly dying, despite the tank being well cycled .
    After lots of reading, I discovered that it seemed to be that these parameters were just too high for the shrimp. (I know that some people say "mine are fine in exactly the same conditions...." Maybe they have the magic touch but mine, like yours were not good)
    Anyway, how I solved the problem was by adding Fluval Shrimp Stratum which buffers the ph and has also brought down the GH/KH.
    Rather than completely tear apart the tank by changing the substrate, I put it in little terracotta pots for my plants and also filled a very fine net bag with it and hid that at the back of the tank.
    It's really sorted out the parameters and the shrimp are fine now.
    Just a last little point on the cuttlebone, when I was reading up on GH, it seems that people use that to raise GH, when molting problems are due to low GH-definitely not needed in your case so it's probably adding to the problem.
    Hope this helps!
  4. OP

    MD_PlantsWell Known MemberMember

    I did a water change last night. And this morning, NO DEAD SHRIMP. They seem to be swimming around more and my gh was defiantly lower. I also noticed MY FIRST MOLT. There is a moly on the java moss. Would you recommend I water change everyday or every other day or what?
  5. Kyleena696

    Kyleena696Valued MemberMember

    That will depend on your nitrate (and other) parameters. I personally do a smaller water change every 2-3 days.
  6. itsEmma

    itsEmmaValued MemberMember

    I do a PWC once a week, I make sure that the new water has sat (treated with dechlorinator etc ) overnight. I also pop a little pot of the Fluval Stratum in the new water bucket, to try to get the parameters a bit closer to those in the tank.
    If you've seen a molt-you must have at least one happy shrimp now!
  7. OP

    MD_PlantsWell Known MemberMember

    I woke up to another dead shrimp :( I got a tds meter today and it read 165 if that means anything to anyone
  8. Acua00

    Acua00New MemberMember

    Hey, that's a tough one. When I read it correctly, the tank is quite new, so it should be difficult for them to find food. Usually shrimps are eating almost all day long, you can't really provide that with artificial food without dirtying the water too much. I would try to cook vegetables like sweet pepper, zucchini or broccoli and give them every two days a portion fitting for the population size.

    Another point might be that shrimps like oxygen. The water surface should always move a little, that's especially helping the eggs once they have some.

    But sometimes it's a lost cause with a charge. I wish you good luck.
  9. OP

    MD_PlantsWell Known MemberMember

    The tank is quite new and Ammonia is around .4. I have shrimp food in there at all times but hardly see them on it. I have s sponge filter going that definetly created water movement
  10. dwarfpufferlover

    dwarfpufferloverWell Known MemberMember

    165 tds is actually a decent number...200-250 is target number 250 having extra minerals to molt.

    I would attest your problems to another matter as they are new. I suggest treating your tank as a fish in cycle and put up some stability and use along with prime. I would also only leave the food in for a few hours not all the time. In a new tank this will just spike up your parameters even more.
  11. Luciferene

    LucifereneValued MemberMember

    It may be that you got adult shrimps as shrimp that are sexually mature tend to not adapt as well. As aquatic arts ship close to breeding age, imported shrimps, if I'm not mistaken.

    I have almost identical parameters to yours in my cherry tank and most adult shrimps that are imported died in the past. However all their offspring (berried ones released offspring before dying) survived and are thriving. Since then, I only try to buy from local breeders.

    As your sponge filter was pre-seeded and you are registering nitrates without seeing ammonia and nitrite, your sponge filter should already have BB, just need to get established more. At this point frequent WC will only stress the shrimps (drop of 40 TDS is a pretty big swing) which could have traveled half way around the world to Aquatic Arts then to your house. So if you have Prime I would dose it every 48 hours to keep ammonia and nitrite to be rendered not toxic, and wait for the cycle to complete.
  12. OP

    MD_PlantsWell Known MemberMember

    Ok so I went away for 3 days. When I came back I could definitely count less shrimp. I count 5 I can openly see and I know for a fact there are at least 2 males and 2 females. I haven’t seen any die since that (I went away around 8 days ago) but I haven’t seen any berries, or have saddles, or whatever it looks like when she’s pregnant. The plants have grown in a little bit more with anacharis 5 inch’s longer. I started to feed 2 hours per day and not leave it in full time. I had the same theory but didn’t know if it was valid or not. The ones left seem ok. Does anyone have any ideas on how long it will take before any of them get pregnant? Iv only had one shrimp molt that I noticed but I know since they eat there molts it is possible I didn’t notice them. I have calcium supplement but I heard that can raise GH which I was already having an issue with.
  13. DarkOne

    DarkOneFishlore VIPMember

    They need biofilm to graze on all day. Not a lot in a new tank. Get some Bacter AE.
  14. Luciferene

    LucifereneValued MemberMember

    It's hard to tell when they'll get pregnant, especially by size. I've observed few of my batches grow up in separate tank and by 1-2 month mark I have sizes ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 inch, and some of them start to show saddles. Month after that, you see a skirt being developed on those with saddles and soon after they get berried. If you don't see saddles on your females, its either the shell is too thick, or they aren't ready to breed.

    General consensus with calcium is that shrimps get their mineral from food they eat. I would just give them good quality food or mineral ball if you are really worried.