That was great to bad I read that too late.
How ever my local fish store was mostly bang on with what you stated.
Also however both my ADF's vanished the tank was checked thuroughly several times.
I assume they made a quick get away 3 months or less in between.
Thanks for all the wonderful info here I just got myself one of these little critters and I love him to pieces already with your help I hope he lives a long long time I am using sand with a dish and will let you know how that works out
I'm using sand in my tank right now, and it seems to be working out. The frogs are good at just grabbing their targets (unless the target is an unsuspecting shrimp. They dart off pretty fast ), and not the sand. Though the sand is a new addition, in the past couple days.
I think it might just depend of the frogs, themselves. I used to have some that would try to eat anything, if it looked at all like it might be food, including gravel and each others flippers, where as, the two I have now are a lot more laid back, and don't go after anything that might be even a little eatable, like the others did.
In addition to the Meds for ADF's, Lamisil baths can be used also for the Chytrid Fungus. Also if the frog stops eating they can safely be giving Pedialyte Baths to get some nutrients into them and to possibly stimulate their appetite. (Thanks again to Mac)
They are best kept in pristine as possible water conditions with no (0) trace of Ammonia, Nitrite and low Nitrates.
You're Welcome Lucy ~ I hope this is ok to post, please edit if it's not ok.
Pedialyte Bath for Aquatic Frogs
by Mac & JBOT
A Pedialyte bath may help to get nutrients (electrolytes) in aquatic frogs and possibly stimulate their appetite in those not eating well.
Use clear, unflavored Pedialyte (not at full strength!).
In a small frog safe container (e.g. never-seen-soap tupperware), mix 1 capful of Pedialyte with 10 capfuls of fresh, dechlorinated (or dechoraminated) water that is the same temperature as tank water's temerature. Alternatively, tank water can be used. Transfer the froggy to the bath for 1 - 2 hrs but do NOT exceed 2 hours. Floating the bath container in a (heated) tank helps to keep it warm.
Watch closely for any adverse reactions. If they start to "freak out", take them out of the bath. It helps to give them something like live plants (e.g. Java fern) in the bath to hide under, to feel more calm. Do not try to feed, while in the bath.
Additional steps: When a frog has not eaten in a long time, I have had to really coax with frozen but thawed bloodworms repeatedly to get them started again.
Hi, I am a new member. When I had sand substrate, I fed my froggies in a small wine glass and they took to it right off.
I originally put sand in aquarium, but then went with no substrate and just plants, and no problems. What my little guys really like is I got a smallish aquarium approved rock (4 inches) and elevated it
high enough for them to just get under with a little wiggle room. They think they are hiding, but
you can still see and enjoy them. I got some of those plastic hose washers(they come in
colors or black) and tied them together with fishing line to the height my froggies wanted. They really like to smoosh
themselves into places, and I have had no problems with anyone getting stuck and drowning.
I have cory catfish in with my froggies and they even hang out together! They eat the same food
and everyone gets enough. Just make sure you get 2 cory's. They really do better if you
have 2 or more. I have also tried froggies and Betta's, but agree with earlier post that it depends on personality of
betta ( and you can only do this if your frog will eat pellets, or you need to feed blood worms at night so betta doesn't eat all
the worms before frog gets there).
I love my froggies and cory's. If I could only have 1 tank, (ok 2), it would be froggies and corys in 1
and just regular old goldfish in the other.