Can't Keep Shrimp Alive

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
The GH could be an issue (so I'm told) it could cause molting problems under 6 for rcs...its a worry of mine as well since mine is only 4-5.
Try to buffer it a bit. Not too much too fast.
Dave125g yes I have heavily planted tanks. I run both an UGF and sponge filter's in the shrimp tanks.

Sorry for the repeated posts just trying to catch up, lol..
There good hiders in a planted tank. You may find them any day now, when they get brave enough.
Ive seen mine go from 6.8 to 7.4 after water changes...I just don't stress it anymore...it drives me too crazy...lol. With the rcs I'm getting, instead of doing a big change once a week, I'm gonna do two smaller ones twice a week and try to keep them as even as possible.
That's not even a full point. Lol no worries there.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
I question the eco complete as the culprit.
Yeah! I started my tank with eco and then I decided on shrimp and fluval stratum was suggested...so I pulled out half my eco and capped with fluval. Opinions again vary on whether these substrates buffer or not...
 

Dorothy B.

Active Member
My friend tried her hand at a planted tank and used eco complete. Both her plecos died and her plants looked awful. I gave her the plants too. She went back to a traditional tank.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
Try to buffer it a bit. Not too much too fast.There good hiders in a planted tank. You may find them any day now, when they get brave enough.That's not even a full point. Lol no worries there.
I bought crushed coral thinking its a gentle way to buffer but more ppl tell me no more then yes cuz its too unreliable I guess? So now I just feel like I don't want to mess with my water at all...stability is better then fiddling...specially since I'm a noob.

My friend tried her hand at a planted tank and used eco complete. Both her plecos died and her plants looked awful. I gave her the plants too. She went back to a traditional tank.
I don't think that was the eco..
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
I bought crushed coral thinking its a gentle way to buffer but more ppl tell me no more then yes cuz its too unreliable I guess? So now I just feel like I don't want to mess with my water at all...stability is better then fiddling...specially since I'm a noob.
Crushed coral works. Some tanks need it. I do agree stability is key. Coral doesn't work for ever and will need replacing from time to time.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
I bought crushed coral thinking its a gentle way to buffer but more ppl tell me no more then yes cuz its too unreliable I guess? So now I just feel like I don't want to mess with my water at all...stability is better then fiddling...specially since I'm a noob.
Ive been told my fluval is buffering my kh/gh low and as it burns out, my tap and tank may stabalize to equal..I hope it is so! My tap kh/gh is perfect. Is that possible?

Crushed coral works. Some tanks need it. I do agree stability is key. Coral doesn't work for ever and will need replacing from time to time.
Ok...should I put it in place of my carbon on my AC30 and test daily? Ive read it can take 8 days to raise a couple kh/gh points. If its that gentle...I am ok with that.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Ive been told my fluval is buffering my kh/gh low and as it burns out, my tap and tank may stabalize to equal..I hope it is so! My tap kh/gh is perfect. Is that possible?
I don't know much about plant specific substrates. I don't use them. I use sand and root tabs. As far as a perfect KH/GH that depends. A certain fish will breed well in soft acidic water, others like invertibreds thrive in hard alkaline water. Perfection depends on your goals as a fish keeper. Lol
 

New fishes

Active Member
I would guess it's a problem with GH/KH, but you'll know for sure once your tests come in. I have ghost shrimp and they've been fine in 40-80 ppm of nitrates (oops). I doubt cherries would survive that though.

And it's not that you might have gotten amanos mixed in with ghost shrimp...you may have gotten whisker shrimp, which are nearly identical to ghosts but generally not so nice. You can end up with calm ones, but they can get really mean too. My whiskers recently died off mysteriously and the actual ghost shrimp are still doing fine.
Thanks everyone for the info. I'm so excited to get my gh/kh test and tds meter lol I really hope it gives me some answers

Ok...should I put it in place of my carbon on my AC30 and test daily? Ive read it can take 8 days to raise a couple kh/gh points. If its that gentle...I am ok with that.
Ohh I could easily add some in
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
Ohh I could easily add some in
Yep...you and I both...just get mixed opinions on whether its a good idea...and it kinda drives me nuts tbh...since I already bought the stuff, I guess try it? And make sure to test daily...
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
Tips for dwarf shrimp:

1) Pristine water, with low nitrates and no ammonia or nitrite.
2) Mature tanks with live plants. Shrimp starve in new tanks. Mosses and floating plants seem to be favorites for shrimp to hide in, and they eat the biofilm that collects in them.
3) Cooler water, in the upper 60s to mid 70s, seems to be ideal for most dwarf shrimp.
4) Stable water without major fluctuations in parameters.
5) Ironically, small water changes. Smaller water changes of less than 25% seem to keep water parameters more stable.
6) Adequate KH (carbonate hardness) and GH (general hardness). This varies depending on the shrimp you are keeping.
7) TDS meters are invaluable to ensure parameters are safe and within the correct ranges for your shrimp. This varies according to species.
8) Feed sparingly. Shrimp in established, mature tanks with plenty of biofilm and algae may only need to be supplemented with food once per week.
9) Drift wood and leaf litter make a huge difference, providing tons of biofilm and infusoria for shrimp to feed on.
10) Ghost shrimp do not feed on biofilm or algae like Neocaridina/Caridina shrimp. They have long probing claws for picking up detritus and other foods.
11) While they get along with some species, shrimp are usually not recommended for tanks with fish. They become stressed, harassed, out-competed or eaten.
12) Active substrates, such as Fluval Stratum or ADA Amazonia, do not seem to work well with Neocaridina. They also can cause extreme water parameter fluctuations once their buffering capacity runs out, which can and will kill shrimp (ask me how I know). Active substrates are better suited for planted tanks with fish or for keeping finicky Caridina shrimp.
13) Do not use any copper based medication or supplement with invertebrates.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Thanks everyone for the info. I'm so excited to get my gh/kh test and tds meter lol I really hope it gives me some answers
Looking foword to the results.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
Tips for dwarf shrimp:

1) Pristine water, with low nitrates and no ammonia or nitrite.
2) Mature tanks with live plants. Shrimp starve in new tanks. Mosses and floating plants seem to be favorites for shrimp to hide in, and they eat the biofilm that collects in them.
3) Cooler water, in the upper 60s to mid 70s, seems to be ideal for most dwarf shrimp.
4) Stable water without major fluctuations in parameters.
5) Ironically, small water changes. Smaller water changes of less than 25% seem to keep water parameters more stable.
6) Adequate KH (carbonate hardness) and GH (general hardness). This varies depending on the shrimp you are keeping.
7) TDS meters are invaluable to ensure parameters are safe and within the correct ranges for your shrimp. This varies according to species.
8) Feed sparingly. Shrimp in established, mature tanks with plenty of biofilm and algae may only need to be supplemented with food once per week.
9) Drift wood and leaf litter make a huge difference, providing tons of biofilm and infusoria for shrimp to feed on.
10) Ghost shrimp do not feed on biofilm or algae like Neocaridina/Caridina shrimp. They have long probing claws for picking up detritus and other foods.
11) While they get along with some species, shrimp are usually not recommended for tanks with fish. They become stressed, harassed, out-competed or eaten.
12) Active substrates, such as Fluval Stratum or ADA Amazonia, do not seem to work well with Neocaridina. They also can cause extreme water parameter fluctuations once their buffering capacity runs out, which can and will kill shrimp (ask me how I know). Active substrates are better suited for planted tanks with fish or for keeping finicky Caridina shrimp.
13) Do not use any copper based medication or supplement with invertebrates.
Oh no! I was doing good till you said 12! Like I said...opinions vary and can drive you nuts! I was specifically recommended fluval stratum for RCS!
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Tips for dwarf shrimp:

1) Pristine water, with low nitrates and no ammonia or nitrite.
2) Mature tanks with live plants. Shrimp starve in new tanks. Mosses and floating plants seem to be favorites for shrimp to hide in, and they eat the biofilm that collects in them.
3) Cooler water, in the upper 60s to mid 70s, seems to be ideal for most dwarf shrimp.
4) Stable water without major fluctuations in parameters.
5) Ironically, small water changes. Smaller water changes of less than 25% seem to keep water parameters more stable.
6) Adequate KH (carbonate hardness) and GH (general hardness). This varies depending on the shrimp you are keeping.
7) TDS meters are invaluable to ensure parameters are safe and within the correct ranges for your shrimp. This varies according to species.
8) Feed sparingly. Shrimp in established, mature tanks with plenty of biofilm and algae may only need to be supplemented with food once per week.
9) Drift wood and leaf litter make a huge difference, providing tons of biofilm and infusoria for shrimp to feed on.
10) Ghost shrimp do not feed on biofilm or algae like Neocaridina/Caridina shrimp. They have long probing claws for picking up detritus and other foods.
11) While they get along with some species, shrimp are usually not recommended for tanks with fish. They become stressed, harassed, out-competed or eaten.
12) Active substrates, such as Fluval Stratum or ADA Amazonia, do not seem to work well with Neocaridina. They also can cause extreme water parameter fluctuations once their buffering capacity runs out, which can and will kill shrimp (ask me how I know). Active substrates are better suited for planted tanks with fish or for keeping finicky Caridina shrimp.
13) Do not use any copper based medication or supplement with invertebrates.
Very nice compact care sheet.
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
Oh no! I was doing good till you said 12! Like I said...opinions vary and can drive you nuts! I was specifically recommended fluval stratum for RCS!

Here's what happened with my cherry shrimp:

I kept them on Controsoil, which is an active substrate. It makes water more acidic by lowering KH and subsequently pH. If you're using remineralized RO water for Taiwan bee shrimp and keep the KH at 0, this stuff lasts for years.

However...

I was using my tap. To counteract the buffering, I added crushed coral to counterbalance it. I stripped the soil of buffering capacity in less than a month! The water hardness more than doubled, and I started losing shrimp daily due to molting issues. I contacted Mark Peggy, of Mark's Shrimp Tanks, and he said I needed to do a soft reset of my tank. So, I put my shrimp in a bucket with their tank water, and after removing the crushed coral, drained it, filled it with new water, and drip acclimated everyone over a few hours. Didn't lose any more cherries in that tank, started using inert substrates such as sand or ceramic media after that. I can attest that cherries do much better on that kind of substrate... the 30 gallon at my job has hundreds of cherries in it and the substrate is plain black sand. I have never seen a dead shrimp in that tank except for the odd shrimp a dwarf crayfish would catch and eat.
 

KimberlyG

Fishlore VIP
My shrimp tanks have a chunk of cuttle bone sitting in that corner all of the time. It has made a difference in successful shedding.
 

86 ssinit

Fishlore Legend
I wish, lol, my KH is 3 and GH is between 10 and 13 (range among my tanks). My Amano and ghost shrimp do well but I'm wondering if this is why my RCS are slowly dying off and though they were berried weeks ago I have yet to see any babies.
Aquarius if your in the city your on the same water as me. My cherry shrimp are doing fine started with 7 about 6 months ago and I’ve got close to 200 now. Took about 2 months and the removal of a fish that came with the moss balls to get it going. Are there other fish in your tank? If looking for more shrimp I’ve got a lot to give away.
My friend tried her hand at a planted tank and used eco complete. Both her plecos died and her plants looked awful. I gave her the plants too. She went back to a traditional tank.
Dorothy I’ve got eco complete in my 90. Not happy with it waste of money. Debating taking it out. But I have added cherry shrimp about a month ago and there still doing good. Want to see if they will eat the algae associated with eco complete (green slime).
Op sorry don’t have an answer for you. I just got lucky here. I have no idea of gh or kh. Been feeding fish food and algae wafers. But since I have so many now I’m going to look into shrimp food.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
Idk what to think anymore. At this point I have to get my shrimp and pray that I have provided the best environment for them. God knows Ive spent a ton of money trying...
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
Dorothy B. I second EcoComplete being terrible. It's basically a bunch of finely crushed lava rock. Plants do poorly in it in my experience. It is basically inert so unless you use root tabs and fertilize regularly it's not great. They put it in both of the freshwater 55 gallon tanks at work and I hate it. If it were up to me the bottom one (blackwater) would use plain sand and the top one (planted community) would have Fluval Stratum.

Idk what to think anymore. At this point I have to get my shrimp and pray that I have provided the best environment for them. God knows Ive spent a ton of money trying...

Just keep an eye on the GH and KH. Eventually they will shift once your substrate loses it's buffering ability. They shrimp can handle the change as long as it isn't extreme. I plop shrimp between tanks all the time and they are usually fine.

Just because it says "shrimp substrate" doesn't mean all shrimp, which is misleading. Active substrates and shrimp soils are generally formulated for Crystals and Taiwan Bees, and essentially require the use of remineralized RO with no KH and a low GH.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Ecocomplete is said to work because it provides a good spot to grow BB which in turn provides nitrates for the plants. I use the cheap inert sand and root tabs. That it and my plants do great.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
Just keep an eye on the GH and KH. Eventually they will shift once your substrate loses it's buffering ability. They shrimp can handle the change as long as it isn't extreme. I plop shrimp between tanks all the time and they are usually fine.

Just because it says "shrimp substrate" doesn't mean all shrimp, which is misleading. Active substrates and shrimp soils are generally formulated for Crystals and Taiwan Bees, and essentially require the use of remineralized RO with no KH and a low GH.
I was told as the fluval “washes out” my tap kh and gh may equal out...my tap is lovely for shrimp...that's why I don't think I want to mess with the perameters with coral or shrimp bee or whatever...in case I overdo it...but I'm so confused at this point.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
I was told as the fluval “washes out” my tap kh and gh may equal out...my tap is lovely for shrimp...that's why I don't think I want to mess with the perameters with coral or shrimp bee or whatever...in case I overdo it...but I'm so confused at this point.
If your succesfull with your tap water. Dont mess with it. No need to rock the boat.
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
I was told as the fluval “washes out” my tap kh and gh may equal out...my tap is lovely for shrimp...that's why I don't think I want to mess with the perameters with coral or shrimp bee or whatever...in case I overdo it...but I'm so confused at this point.

Stratum pulls carbonate compounds (KH) out of your tap water, lowering your KH and pH. It has a finite ability to do this, though. Used in it's intended form, with low/no KH water, it can hold up for years. But with tap water, especially with coral added, it may only last a couple of weeks or months. It will still grow plants just fine, but will no longer buffer your water.

Once you add the stratum, wait 24 hours and you will see marked difference in pH, KH, and possibly GH.

Another thing... according to Mark Peggy (and I believe it is sound advice)... planted tank substrates are rich in nitrogen compounds. These boost plant growth, especially in the first few weeks. However, these compounds can mean a shortened lifespan for your shrimp. Be patient... let the tank mature for a few weeks before adding your shrimp if you can, and be sure to include lots of live plants.

BUT

If possible, I would return the Stratum if you haven't opened it and opt for plain ol' sand (still a good idea to wait a few weeks regardless).
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Ok...should I put it in place of my carbon on my AC30 and test daily? Ive read it can take 8 days to raise a couple kh/gh points. If its that gentle...I am ok with that.
Sorry I missed this somehow. You can. Add a little bit and test for a week. Add a little more if needed. Test for a week. If you dump too much in it can come up too fast. It's like acclimating new fish. It must be done slowly.
 

New fishes

Active Member
Dorothy B. I second EcoComplete being terrible. It's basically a bunch of finely crushed lava rock. Plants do poorly in it in my experience. It is basically inert so unless you use root tabs and fertilize regularly it's not great. They put it in both of the freshwater 55 gallon tanks at work and I hate it. If it were up to me the bottom one (blackwater) would use plain sand and the top one (planted community) would have Fluval Stratum.
I have no idea if it's actually good for plants but mine are doing well and I love the look of it. It's was fairly inexpensive as well.
 

Kathryn Crook

Well Known
If your succesfull with your tap water. Dont mess with it. No need to rock the boat.
My tap is not m
Sorry I missed this somehow. You can. Add a little bit and test for a week. Add a little more if needed. Test for a week. If you dump too much in it can come up too fast. It's like acclimating new fish. It must be done slowly.
I was gonna put it in a bag in my filter..
 

86 ssinit

Fishlore Legend

34C4B143-AC16-47E0-9B0F-8B119A6FED55.jpeg
3E750511-1861-4922-B256-2A1E17A6CF8A.jpeg This is the greenslime. On eco to the right of anubias and in the center of hornwort. It comes off easy just hit it with the vacuume. But not what I expected from a plant substrate.
A538A9B4-C91D-41C3-A39A-DE99257D47EA.jpeg And to keep it on subject my cherry shrimp tank .
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Oops, I edited now thanks, yes it's my KH3 and GH10-13...
Corrected, sorry, GH3 and KH10-13
Man which is correct? Lol

Did it...bout the same as fresh...kh/gh 8 but PH fresh out tap 7.2 and rested 8. Just whacky! I gave up on Ph tbh...
Co2 needs to gas off a bit. That's why the wacky readings.
 

-Mak-

Fishlore VIP
To clarify for those asking...

1. Cherry shrimp need 5-10 GH, ideally. Higher is probably okay, lower causes molting issues.
2. KH (calcium carbonate) matters little, besides for buffering ph
3. Fluval stratum does lower ph to about 6.5 at most, but is weaker than other active substrates in terms of buffering and nutrient capacity
4. Active substrates strip KH, so do not add KH to a tank with buffered substrate, or you'll wear out the substrate quicker
5. Eco complete and flourite are not active, are neutral for ph and do not contain macronutrients for plants. They are not soil like active substrates are. They are far more porous than sand and gravel, therefore can house more bacteria.
6. Cuttlebone, egg shells, other animal products etc add KH
7. GH boosters like seachem equilibrium add GH
8. If you have really hard tap water, fluval stratum, being weaker than other active substrates, will be okay for cherry shrimp
9. Amano shrimp are peaceful and don't kill other shrimp. I've seen maybe one case of an amano killing a cherry, but nobody else has reported anything like it.
 

allllien

Well Known
To clarify for those asking...

1. Cherry shrimp need 5-10 GH, ideally. Higher is probably okay, lower causes molting issues.
2. KH (calcium carbonate) matters little, besides for buffering ph
3. Fluval stratum does lower ph to about 6.5 at most, but is weaker than other active substrates in terms of buffering and nutrient capacity
4. Active substrates strip KH, so do not add KH to a tank with buffered substrate, or you'll wear out the substrate quicker
5. Eco complete and flourite are not active, are neutral for ph and do not contain macronutrients for plants. They are not soil like active substrates are. They are far more porous than sand and gravel, therefore can house more bacteria.
6. Cuttlebone, egg shells, other animal products etc add KH
7. GH boosters like seachem equilibrium add GH
8. If you have really hard tap water, fluval stratum, being weaker than other active substrates, will be okay for cherry shrimp
9. Amano shrimp are peaceful and don't kill other shrimp. I've seen maybe one case of an amano killing a cherry, but nobody else has reported anything like it.
I personally don't have any issues keeping shrimp, I don't test my water, I do large water changes, I don't drip acclimate and technically do everything wrong according to most people, but I have no problem keeping them alive and healthy
One thing I did find though, was when a shrimp had a problem with a molt and had a 'split' section in it's shell I started added calcium (in my overhead filter), which seemed to help as I haven't had that problem since -I also often find the young ones in the filter snacking on the calcium, so while it isn't 'necessary' it does seem to help, especially if there's not a lot of calcium in their food source.
I've heard of other people saying their shrimp were dying from spits in their shells from lack of calcium, so just thought I'd mention it as it could be a factor.
 

HairyCatFish

Well Known
Aquarius if your in the city your on the same water as me. My cherry shrimp are doing fine started with 7 about 6 months ago and I’ve got close to 200 now. Took about 2 months and the removal of a fish that came with the moss balls to get it going. Are there other fish in your tank? If looking for more shrimp I’ve got a lot to give away.

Dorothy I’ve got eco complete in my 90. Not happy with it waste of money. Debating taking it out. But I have added cherry shrimp about a month ago and there still doing good. Want to see if they will eat the algae associated with eco complete (green slime).
Op sorry don’t have an answer for you. I just got lucky here. I have no idea of gh or kh. Been feeding fish food and algae wafers. But since I have so many now I’m going to look into shrimp food.
Yes I'm in the city (North BX) so we should be on the same Croton Reservoir water system. I have everything from Amazon sword, to Anubias, to java fern and water Sprite in both my shrimp tanks. Both tanks are community tanks, shared with neon and ember tetras. I started with 6 in my 20 gallon. I noticed they were berried a few weeks ago. But I've lost about 2 or 3 in the last week. The one that died yesterday still has eggs under her belly so I didn't remove her from the tank, she is on the sponge filter and I'm hoping those babies will live?
Last week I went and bought another 6 RCS, 4 yellow, and 6 red and white shrimp for my other shrimp tank that has Amano and ghost shrimp. Just to see if I have better luck in that tank.
So yeah I'm guessing I may only have about 2 or 3 left in my 20 gallon and I'm really, really wanting to add more RCS to the 20 gallon, but it is getting expensive so if you have any I'd love to have them.
 

Mazeus

Well Known
I know I'm super late to the party here, but to the OP I thought I should mention your gourami. Sparkling gourami are renowned for killing shrimp (especially after a molt) they hunt in packs to take them down and they will almost certain eat shrimplets. They probably won't get all the shrimp, but they aren't an ideal tank mate if you want to grow your shrimp colony.
 

Dorothy B.

Active Member
Dorothy B. I second EcoComplete being terrible. It's basically a bunch of finely crushed lava rock. Plants do poorly in it in my experience. It is basically inert so unless you use root tabs and fertilize regularly it's not great. They put it in both of the freshwater 55 gallon tanks at work and I hate it. If it were up to me the bottom one (blackwater) would use plain sand and the top one (planted community) would have Fluval Stratum.
Have you considered a dirted tank? I have a glorious tank with little fuss. It's been established for 8 years and I've never fertilized. I can't say enough good about a dirted tank.
 

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Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Yes I'm in the city (North BX) so we should be on the same Croton Reservoir water system. I have everything from Amazon sword, to Anubias, to java fern and water Sprite in both my shrimp tanks. Both tanks are community tanks, shared with neon and ember tetras. I started with 6 in my 20 gallon. I noticed they were berried a few weeks ago. But I've lost about 2 or 3 in the last week. The one that died yesterday still has eggs under her belly so I didn't remove her from the tank, she is on the sponge filter and I'm hoping those babies will live?
Last week I went and bought another 6 RCS, 4 yellow, and 6 red and white shrimp for my other shrimp tank that has Amano and ghost shrimp. Just to see if I have better luck in that tank.
So yeah I'm guessing I may only have about 2 or 3 left in my 20 gallon and I'm really, really wanting to add more RCS to the 20 gallon, but it is getting expensive so if you have any I'd love to have them.
New born shrimp may be eaten by fish?
I know I'm super late to the party here, but to the OP I thought I should mention your gourami. Sparkling gourami are renowned for killing shrimp (especially after a molt) they hunt in packs to take them down and they will almost certain eat shrimplets. They probably won't get all the shrimp, but they aren't an ideal tank mate if you want to grow your shrimp colony.
Wow how did I miss that? A gourami in a shrimp tank is a big no no.
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
Have you considered a dirted tank? I have a glorious tank with little fuss. It's been established for 8 years and I've never fertilized. I can't say enough good about a dirted tank.
I use aquasoil in all my tanks, though I had a dirted 3 gallon bowl for a while
 

HairyCatFish

Well Known
Man which is correct? Lol
Lol, oops I did it again and corrected again, so sorry..
It is KH3 and GH 10-13

And yes I thought it might be the fish eating them but was told they were too fast and tiny to even see. And I have hiding places for them.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Lol, oops I did it again and corrected again, so sorry..
It is KH3 and GH 10-13

And yes I thought it might be the fish eating them but was told they were too fast and tiny to even see. And I have hiding places for them.
I hope there just hiding.
 

EbiAqua

Fishlore VIP
Lol, oops I did it again and corrected again, so sorry..
It is KH3 and GH 10-13

And yes I thought it might be the fish eating them but was told they were too fast and tiny to even see. And I have hiding places for them.

In my experience the shrimp will hide all day and only come out after hours so they can forage in peace. During the day the fish harass them to the point they can't come out in the open.
 

86 ssinit

Fishlore Legend
Lol, oops I did it again and corrected again, so sorry..
It is KH3 and GH 10-13

And yes I thought it might be the fish eating them but was told they were too fast and tiny to even see. And I have hiding places for them.
I think for the first months till you can see the babies the tank needs to be fish free. I think most fish will eat the shrimplets. Hey they all eat brine shrimp. I found once they get to about 1/2 inch most fish stop eating them. I’ve introduced them to both my other tanks and there living just not reproduceing.
Aquarius pm me for shrimp.
 

New fishes

Active Member
I know I'm super late to the party here, but to the OP I thought I should mention your gourami. Sparkling gourami are renowned for killing shrimp (especially after a molt) they hunt in packs to take them down and they will almost certain eat shrimplets. They probably won't get all the shrimp, but they aren't an ideal tank mate if you want to grow your shrimp colony.
Ah shoot. Perhaps I will separate them then. Would they not munch on the Shrimp if they were Killing them? I'm finding full bodies each time. I do have lots io moss and fun hiding spots and the gourami seem so shy. I will update tomorrow or next day once my gh/kh and tds stuff arrives
 

MRxMIYAGI

Active Member
Copper sulfate kills shrimp, which is in most all fish food
 

Aquariaddict

Active Member
I acclimated them over seveeal hours adding a small amount of tank water every 15 minutes. I'm wondering if I should get more next time and just hope a few hang on? I don't I feel bad because I am trying to care for them but I don't know if something I'm doing is causing this
Not sure if this was mentioned before, but what is your kH?
 

New fishes

Active Member
Copper sulfate kills shrimp, which is in most all fish food
Thanks I double checked I don't think my foods have it. I primarily feed new life spectrum and a weekly frozen treat. Hoping my test stuff comes today
 

New fishes

Active Member
Yes OP has test kit on the way.
Don't know how to respond to everyone but my kh seems to be 4 and gh 7-8 I'm guessing I need to raise the kh.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Not necessarily. I'm thinking your gouramis had something to do with the deaths. 4 is borderline in my opinion. You can try to buffer it a bit, but it may not help.
 

New fishes

Active Member
Not necessarily. I'm thinking your gouramis had something to do with the deaths. 4 is borderline in my opinion. You can try to buffer it a bit, but it may not help.
Ok so I don't need to add coral or bone? Even just the two sparkling could take them down and still not try to eat them? So sad I saw them all bumping together and swimming about but I'm totally at a loss as to what else could have done it unless they were just all Ill to begin with :/ the only thing I'm waiting on is my tds meter. Everything else seems good.
 

Dave125g

Fishlore Legend
Ok so I don't need to add coral or bone? Even just the two sparkling could take them down and still not try to eat them? So sad I saw them all bumping together and swimming about but I'm totally at a loss as to what else could have done it unless they were just all Ill to begin with :/ the only thing I'm waiting on is my tds meter. Everything else seems good.
The shrimp will need a calcium source. Bone works. Shrimp are sensitive. Ghost shrimp are sometimes sold as feeders. Those are weaker stock.
 

-Mak-

Fishlore VIP
Some calcium comes from diet too, not just the water.
Note that shrimp exoskeletons are made of chitin, a complex sugar. Not calcium. There is a calcium deposited on the outside. The general consensus is GH affects shrimp more than KH does.
 

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