Can't get ammonia down

fishessed

I'm trying to cycle a new 20 gallon aquarium with one small goldfish that my son won at a carnival. It's been a few weeks and no matter what I do, I cannot get the ammonia to come down or the tank to cycle. I was doing 2.5 to 3 gallon water changes every day to every other day and ammonia just kept going up. Finally it got so high and the fish was not well so I decided to vacuum the gravel and changed between 50 to 75% of the water. Norman, the fish, finally started swimming and coming out of his house after I cleaned it and the ammonia was down to .25. But then within 2 days it was back up past 4 or even higher, then today the water got really cloudy which i know is just a bacterial bloom from the big water change. I've been adding ammo lock every couple days but I'm still concerned because he has more and more black burn spots from the ammonia. prior to the big change change there was little to no nitrites and same for nitrates. What am I doing wrong? I really don't want this poor fish to suffer. I want him to thrive and I'm just so worried about him. What do I do?
 

Dunk2

I'm trying to cycle a new 20 gallon aquarium with one small goldfish that my son won at a carnival. It's been a few weeks and no matter what I do, I cannot get the ammonia to come down or the tank to cycle. I was doing 2.5 to 3 gallon water changes every day to every other day and ammonia just kept going up. Finally it got so high and the fish was not well so I decided to vacuum the gravel and changed between 50 to 75% of the water. Norman, the fish, finally started swimming and coming out of his house after I cleaned it and the ammonia was down to .25. But then within 2 days it was back up past 4 or even higher, then today the water got really cloudy which i know is just a bacterial bloom from the big water change. I've been adding ammo lock every couple days but I'm still concerned because he has more and more black burn spots from the ammonia. prior to the big change change there was little to no nitrites and same for nitrates. What am I doing wrong? I really don't want this poor fish to suffer. I want him to thrive and I'm just so worried about him. What do I do?

Welcome to FL!

The Ammo Lock is preventing your tank from cycling.

I’d suggest that you stop using it and use Seachem Prime instead.

What are you using to test your water parameters?
 

fishessed

Welcome to FL!

The Ammo Lock is preventing your tank from cycling.

I’d suggest that you stop using it and use Seachem Prime instead.
I just ordered some today. Do I need to do a big water change to get all the ammo lock out before I start using Prime instead?
 

Dunk2

What are you using to test and what are your water parameters now?
 

fishessed

What are you using to test and what are your water parameters now?
I'm using the API master test kit with the little glass tubes. I even tested my tap water to see if it had ammonia in it or if the test wasn't working properly. It seems to be fairly accurate for everything. But I'm also new at this, I haven't had an aquarium in many years and never had problems with my old aquariums.
 

Dunk2

I'm using the API master test kit with the little glass tubes. I even tested my tap water to see if it had ammonia in it or if the test wasn't working properly. It seems to be fairly accurate for everything. But I'm also new at this, I haven't had an aquarium in many years and never had problems with my old aquariums.

The API kit is good! So your tap water was 0 ammonia?

When did you last use Ammo Lock and what is the ammonia level now?
 

fishessed

What are you using to test and what are your water parameters now?
ph is around 7.2, no nitrites, I can't tell the color for nitrates but it's either none or just above, ammonia is very dark green between the 4 and 8 on the color chart included with the kit.
 

Dunk2

I’d suggest another large water change. Until you get Prime, you’re going to need to continue to use the Ammo Lock to protect your fish.

When you get Prime, a lot of water changes are still likely going to be necessary. Prime is only effective up to a combined level of ammonia and nitrites of 1 ppm.
 

fishessed

The API kit is good! So your tap water was 0 ammonia?

When did you last use Ammo Lock and what is the ammonia level now?
Ammonia is between 4 to 8, very dark green, and I just used ammo lock this evening. He was doing so much better but now the water is cloudy and he's back to hiding in his little house.
Ammonia is between 4 to 8, very dark green, and I just used ammo lock this evening. He was doing so much better but now the water is cloudy and he's back to hiding in his little house.
and yes, tap water has 0 ammonia
 

Dunk2

If it was my tank, I’d do another large water change. Again, you’ll need to continue to use Ammo Lock until you get Prime.

Make sense?
 

fishessed

I’d suggest another large water change. Until you get Prime, you’re going to need to continue to use the Ammo Lock to protect your fish.

When you get Prime, a lot of water changes are still likely going to be necessary. Prime is only effective up to a combined level of ammonia and nitrites of 1 ppm.
so would a 75% water change do, then use Prime for new water, then change maybe 3 gallons a day? Does that sound right? for how long should I do that? Thanks for your help
 

Dunk2

so would a 75% water change do, then use Prime for new water, then change maybe 3 gallons a day? Does that sound right? for how long should I do that? Thanks for your help

If the ammonia is above 4, yes. . . I’d do a 75% change.

The amount of water you change depends on your daily test result. Because Prime is only effective up to a combined level of ammonia and nitrites of 1 ppm, I’d suggest you target keeping the combined level below 0.50 ppm.

So if your test shows 1 ppm, a 50% change will bring it to 0.50 ppm and a 75% change will bring it to 0.25 ppm.

Test daily and very likely do daily partial water changes.
 

fishessed

If the ammonia is above 4, yes. . . I’d do a 75% change.

The amount of water you change depends on your daily test result. Because Prime is only effective up to a combined level of ammonia and nitrites of 1 ppm, I’d suggest you target keeping the combined level below 0.50 ppm.

So if your test shows 1 ppm, a 50% change will bring it to 0.50 ppm and a 75% change will bring it to 0.25 ppm.

Test daily and very like do daily partial water changes.
That makes sense, thank you. How long do you think it will take to get it cycled and to a point where I don't need to do the daily changes?
 

Dunk2

That makes sense, thank you. How long do you think it will take to get it cycled and to a point where I don't need to do the daily changes?

A full cycle typically takes between 4 - 6 weeks, so unfortunately you have a fair amount of work ahead.

Although some folks have had luck using bottled bacteria to speed up the cycling process a bit, I personally have not seen much of a benefit from using it.
 

fishessed

A full cycle typically takes between 4 - 6 weeks, so unfortunately you have a fair amount of work ahead.

Although some folks have had luck using bottled bacteria to speed up the cycling process a bit, I personally have not seen much of a benefit from using it.
yeah I've been using Quick Start and it doesn't seem to do anything. I thought about getting a used filter from someone to seed it but I'm worried about introducing parasites or something.
 

Dunk2

yeah I've been using Quick Start and it doesn't seem to do anything. I thought about getting a used filter from someone to seed it but I'm worried about introducing parasites or something.

Getting used filter media or even substrate from a fully established tank would be a great option, but I understand the concern for introducing something nasty to your tank.

In fairness though, the Quick Start wouldn’t have done anything given the Ammo Lock you’re using.
 

fishessed

Getting used filter media or even substrate from a fully established tank would be a great option, but I understand the concern for introducing something nasty to your tank.

In fairness though, the Quick Start wouldn’t have done anything given the Ammo Lock you’re using.
I had no idea the Ammo Lock was preventing the cycling. Maybe I'll see if I can get a used filter from the supply store. I just want this poor fish to live a good life after being a carnival goldfish. Thanks so much for your help and advice.
 

Dunk2

I had no idea the Ammo Lock was preventing the cycling. Maybe I'll see if I can get a used filter from the supply store. I just want this poor fish to live a good life after being a carnival goldfish. Thanks so much for your help and advice.

Here’s another option.
Filter - Active Sponge Filter
 

jdhef

I've never used Ammo Lock, but I read on the forum in the past, that Ammo Lock will cause the API test to read higher for ammonia than what is really in the tank, so it is possible your ammonia level isn't as high as your results are telling you. But with that said, you no doubt have elevated ammonia levels. Until you get Prime and can be 100% what your level are, if it were me, I would be performing daily 50% water changes.

Once you feel like you are getting accurate ammonia readings, you can test daily. If ammonia+nitrites are less than 1ppm, add enough Prime to the tank to treat all 20 gallons. If ammonia+nitrites are 1ppm or higher, perform a 50% water change using enough Prime to treat all 20 gallons. Keep this up until fully cycled. This can take 6 weeks or more.

I'm a huge fan of using Tetra SafeStart+ (TSS+) to cycle a tank. If you want to use TSS+ here's what you need to do:
1) Do a huge water change (even back to back water changes to get the ammonia level as close to 0ppm as possible.
2) Wait 24 hours. This is very important since using TSS+ within 24 hours of using a water conditioner can cause TSS+ to fail
3) After 24 hours add an entire, well shaken bottle of TSS+ that will treat a minimum of 20 gallons. Don't worry if the bottle will treat a larger tank, you can't over dose.
4) For the next 14 day, do nothing but lightly feed your fish. No water changes, no adding any chemicals to the tank...nothing
5) On day 14 test your water and if all worked correctly...congrats, your cycled.

Lastly, as a guy who got started in fishkeeping when my daughter won a goldfish at a school fair, I regret to have to tell you that your tank too small for a common goldfish (i.e. a single tail). They can grow to be over a foot long and really belong in ponds. With a fancy goldfish (fantail) you can get away with one ion a 20 gallon tank. The rule of thumb for fancy goldfish is 20g for the first one and 10g for each additional, but that is really the absolute minumum.

Actually my daughter had won two goldfish, so I went to PetSmart to get a tank for them and was sold a 1 1/2g tank. It became quite obvious that the tank was too small after a couple of week, so I went back to PetSmart and was sold a 2.5 gallon tank. Well one of the goldfish died and the other lost all it's fins to fin rot (I was not aware of the nitrogen cycle yet). So I went back to PetSmart and was sold a 5g tank and bought the smallest fantail they had to replace the one that died. It was about that time I learned about the nitrogen cycle. But the goldfish quickly out grew the 5g tank so I got a 15gallon tank. It took then several months to outgrow the 15 gallon tank, so I bought a 25 gallon tank. And that is where I stopped buying tanks for the goldfish. But I will say that the common goldfish live 5 years and the fantail lived another 3 years.

Goldfish are great fish with a lot of personality. Best of luck!
 

fishessed

I've never used Ammo Lock, but I read on the forum in the past, that Ammo Lock will cause the API test to read higher for ammonia than what is really in the tank, so it is possible your ammonia level isn't as high as your results are telling you. But with that said, you no doubt have elevated ammonia levels. Until you get Prime and can be 100% what your level are, if it were me, I would be performing daily 50% water changes.

Once you feel like you are getting accurate ammonia readings, you can test daily. If ammonia+nitrites are less than 1ppm, add enough Prime to the tank to treat all 20 gallons. If ammonia+nitrites are 1ppm or higher, perform a 50% water change using enough Prime to treat all 20 gallons. Keep this up until fully cycled. This can take 6 weeks or more.

I'm a huge fan of using Tetra SafeStart+ (TSS+) to cycle a tank. If you want to use TSS+ here's what you need to do:
1) Do a huge water change (even back to back water changes to get the ammonia level as close to 0ppm as possible.
2) Wait 24 hours. This is very important since using TSS+ within 24 hours of using a water conditioner can cause TSS+ to fail
3) After 24 hours add an entire, well shaken bottle of TSS+ that will treat a minimum of 20 gallons. Don't worry if the bottle will treat a larger tank, you can't over dose.
4) For the next 14 day, do nothing but lightly feed your fish. No water changes, no adding any chemicals to the tank...nothing
5) On day 14 test your water and if all worked correctly...congrats, your cycled.

Lastly, as a guy who got started in fishkeeping when my daughter won a goldfish at a school fair, I regret to have to tell you that your tank too small for a common goldfish (i.e. a single tail). They can grow to be over a foot long and really belong in ponds. With a fancy goldfish (fantail) you can get away with one ion a 20 gallon tank. The rule of thumb for fancy goldfish is 20g for the first one and 10g for each additional, but that is really the absolute minumum.

Actually my daughter had won two goldfish, so I went to PetSmart to get a tank for them and was sold a 1 1/2g tank. It became quite obvious that the tank was too small after a couple of week, so I went back to PetSmart and was sold a 2.5 gallon tank. Well one of the goldfish died and the other lost all it's fins to fin rot (I was not aware of the nitrogen cycle yet). So I went back to PetSmart and was sold a 5g tank and bought the smallest fantail they had to replace the one that died. It was about that time I learned about the nitrogen cycle. But the goldfish quickly out grew the 5g tank so I got a 15gallon tank. It took then several months to outgrow the 15 gallon tank, so I bought a 25 gallon tank. And that is where I stopped buying tanks for the goldfish. But I will say that the common goldfish live 5 years and the fantail lived another 3 years.

Goldfish are great fish with a lot of personality. Best of luck!
thanks for the detailed info. I just went to petco and got prime and TSS. I'm going to do a 50 to 75% water change today and go from there. i asked them for used filter media but they said they didn't have any available to give out. I know the tank will be too small, I just figured I'd have a few months to get started. I had to run to petco after the carnival and just grab whatever I could setup fast. I actually got started with aquariums when I won 2 little goldfish at a carnival when I was a kid. I didn't know what I doing as a little 9 year old girl but I somehow managed to keep them alive for 5 years and they got huge, I think I ended up with a 50 gallon the last couple years. I just don't remember having all that issues back then. Hopefully I'm on the right track this time.
 

jdhef

I'm sure you'll do fine. Goldfish are great fish and easy to get attached to. Hopefully I will start keeping them again at some point.

Hopefully it goes without saying, that if you have any further questions, feel free to ask away.
 

fishessed

Okay so I just did a 70% water change and used Prime with the new water, treating for all 20 gallons. This is where my levels are afterwards. I used ammo lock two days. Is that what's causing the ammonia to test so high? How much water do I change daily from here, or should I do another big change right now? what do I doooo?! I feel so bad for poor Norman. He seems okay but he's getting more black spots.
 

jdhef

If it were me, I would do another large water change.
 

fishessed

so I've been doing daily 50% water changes and using Prime and the ammonia is hovering between 1 and 2ppm, maybe closer to 2. I know ammonia needs to be present to cycle the tank, but where should I aim to keep it while it cycles? Should I keep doing the 50% water changes to get it lower, and at what point can I start doing smaller daily water changes?
 

jdhef

You want to keep ammonoa+nitrite under 1ppm. Since a standard dose of Prime will detox up to 1ppm of ammonia and/or nitrites for 24 hours, you fish will never be exposed to toxic ammonia/nitrites.
 

fishessed

any idea why I'm having a hard time getting it under 1ppm? I'm doing 50% water changes daily and by morning it's still between 1 to 2ppm. Do I need to vacuum the gravel more?
 

jdhef

Goldfish are huge ammonia producers. Doing a thorough vacuuming as well as being sure not to over feed will help a lot.
 

fishessed

so I've been doing everything everyone said, vacuuming, daily water changes, using prime. It's been a couple weeks and the nitrates have gone up, which I thought indicated that the tank had cycled, but the ammonia is still present, never going down below 0.5 to 1. No nitrites. Shouldn't the ammonia have gone down by now if nitrates are present?
 

jdhef

From what you are saying it looks like you don't quite have enough ammonia converting bacteria yet. But your nitrite converting bacteria colonly is large enough to convert all the nitrites that your ammonia converting bacteria is converting.

BTW...what's your pH reading?
 

fishessed

I'm attaching a picture of the ph tests because I have a terrible time figuring out which color they match closest. I want to say somewhere between 7.6 to 8.0
What makes the ph go up? 2 weeks ago the ph was definitely lower, closer to 7.0. I've been doing daily water changes or every other day depending on where the ammonia is, usually between 4 to 8 gallon changes. Should I try to adjust the ph?
 

mattgirl

Okay so I just did a 70% water change and used Prime with the new water, treating for all 20 gallons. This is where my levels are afterwards. I used ammo lock two days. Is that what's causing the ammonia to test so high? How much water do I change daily from here, or should I do another big change right now? what do I doooo?! I feel so bad for poor Norman. He seems okay but he's getting more black spots.
Are you still using ammo-lock? If you are STOP using it. Ammo-lock locks up ammonia. Bacteria can't eat locked up ammonia. In my humble opinion ammo-lock should NEVER be used when trying to cycle a tank. Prime yes, ammo-lock absolutely not.

If you've not added it for a while then i have to ask. What kind of filtration do you have running in this tank? Your pH is fine. you really don't need to do anything to attempt to change it.
 

fishessed

Are you still using ammo-lock? If you are STOP using it. Ammo-lock locks up ammonia. Bacteria can't eat locked up ammonia. In my humble opinion ammo-lock should NEVER be used when trying to cycle a tank. Prime yes, ammo-lock absolutely not.

If you've not added it for a while then i have to ask. What kind of filtration do you have running in this tank? Your pH is fine. you really don't need to do anything to attempt to change it.
no, I stopped using that a couple weeks ago after I did the 70% water change. I haven't used it since. I haven't been putting anything in the water except prime and a little bit of aquarium salt, whatever the directionssay for freshwater. I haven't changed the filter media either.
the filter is just whatever filter came with the 20 gallon tank kit I bought at petco. It's just a standard little filter that hangs on the back of the tank and has a little filter insert thing. Sorry, I don't know much about filters. It has the main filter cartridge with the carbon in it then a little white spongey thing that sits right where the water flows back out into the tank.
 

mattgirl

no, I stopped using that a couple weeks ago after I did the 70% water change. I haven't used it since. I haven't been putting anything in the water except prime and a little bit of aquarium salt, whatever the directionssay for freshwater. I haven't changed the filter media either.
That is very good. The ammo-lock may have slowed the cycling process down at first but you would think by now there would be enough bacteria to keep the ammonia from steadily rising.

I was wondering what kind of filter you are running. Is it possible it isn't big enough to handle the bio-load of a goldfish? If HOB, what size is it? Underfiltration can cause issues/
 

fishessed

That is very good. The ammo-lock may have slowed the cycling process down at first but you would think by now there would be enough bacteria to keep the ammonia from steadily rising.

I was wondering what kind of filter you are running. Is it possible it isn't big enough to handle the bio-load of a goldfish? If HOB, what size is it? Underfiltration can cause issues/
Can you recommend a better filter i can use? But shouldn't i keep the filter cartridge since that's where all the bacteria is?
 

mattgirl

Can you recommend a better filter i can use? But shouldn't i keep the filter cartridge since that's where all the bacteria is?
Sadly the filters that come in the kits are not as good as they should be. Since this is a 20 gallon tank with a goldfish in it you may want to look into getting an AquaClear either 50 or 70. Such as this one. https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-F...624893898&sprefix=aquaclear+70,aps,209&sr=8-2

I've never used this brand of filter but a lot of folks do recommend them. I would probably go with the 70. You can never have too much filtration. Too much water movement is possible but never too much filtration. When you get it you can run both it and the one you have now or just move all the media from to small one over to the new one.
 

fishessed

so I would just take the old cartridge from the one I gave now and insert it into the new filter? Do I use a new cartridge with the new filter too?
 

mattgirl

so I would just take the old cartridge from the one I gave now and insert it into the new filter? Do I use a new cartridge with the new filter too?
If you get the filter I linked to it comes with all the media it needs. It doesn't use actual cartridges. It has more permanent media that can be rinsed and used for years. Yes, you would take the cartridge and sponge from the filter you have right now and put it in the new filter along with the new media as long as there is enough space for all of it. You may have to cut the fiber off the plastic cartridge frame and toss the frame. The majority of the bacteria in going to be on the piece of fiber and the small sponge you have in your filter right now.
 

fishessed

Got it, thanks for your help. I'll order the new filter now.
 

mattgirl

Got it, thanks for your help. I'll order the new filter now.
I really do expect things to start moving in the right directions quickly once the filtration is upgraded.
 

jdhef

I love those AquaClear filters. Back when I had my last goldfish tank, the tank came with a filter with a cartridge (I can remember the brand, but I think it was "Whisper" something. Anyway, I added an AquaClear 50 and ran both. I took the carbon out of the cartridge of the other filter and just left the floss. Without having carbon inside the cartridge, I was able to run it until it fell apart. Then I would take a new cartridge, remove carbon stick it in, and rip what was left of the old cartridge off the frame and stuff it behind the cartridge and leave it there for a few weeks to help seed the new cartridge.
 

mattgirl

I love those AquaClear filters. Back when I had my last goldfish tank, the tank came with a filter with a cartridge (I can remember the brand, but I think it was "Whisper" something. Anyway, I added an AquaClear 50 and ran both. I took the carbon out of the cartridge of the other filter and just left the floss. Without having carbon inside the cartridge, I was able to run it until it fell apart. Then I would take a new cartridge, remove carbon stick it in, and rip what was left of the old cartridge off the frame and stuff it behind the cartridge and leave it there for a few weeks to help seed the new cartridge.
I was reading some recent bad reviews on them but I have to wonder if some of the issues wouldn't have happened if the filter had been cleaned from time to time like is recommended. I know I've read a lot of good words about them here on the forum. Unfortunately I can't speak from personal experience since I've never had one.
 

fishessed

I love those AquaClear filters. Back when I had my last goldfish tank, the tank came with a filter with a cartridge (I can remember the brand, but I think it was "Whisper" something. Anyway, I added an AquaClear 50 and ran both. I took the carbon out of the cartridge of the other filter and just left the floss. Without having carbon inside the cartridge, I was able to run it until it fell apart. Then I would take a new cartridge, remove carbon stick it in, and rip what was left of the old cartridge off the frame and stuff it behind the cartridge and leave it there for a few weeks to help seed the new cartridge.
so I ordered the aquaclear 70 and it just arrived. I dont think there is room on the tank to hang both the old cartridge filter and the aquaclear and still have the lid on the tank, so I'm just going to use the aquaclear filter. Do I just cut the floss off the plastic cartridge frame and shove it somewhere inside the aquaclear? It looks like there are 3 levels of filtration, the mechanical, chemical, and bio. Does it matter where I put the old floss from the old filter?

I'm really hoping this helps with the ammonia levels because I desperately want to get him a companion. He's still pretty small, and I know I'll have to get him and his companion(s) a bigger tank at some point but I figure they should be fine in 20 gallons for a while.

That being said, when I do finally upgrade to maybe a 50 gallon, can I just transfer the water from the 20 gallon tank to the new one and attach the same filter? Or is it best to get the new tank setup and cycled first?

Thanks for everyone's help here, you guys have been great.
 

mattgirl

so I ordered the aquaclear 70 and it just arrived. I dont think there is room on the tank to hang both the old cartridge filter and the aquaclear and still have the lid on the tank, so I'm just going to use the aquaclear filter. Do I just cut the floss off the plastic cartridge frame and shove it somewhere inside the aquaclear? It looks like there are 3 levels of filtration, the mechanical, chemical, and bio. Does it matter where I put the old floss from the old filter?

I'm really hoping this helps with the ammonia levels because I desperately want to get him a companion. He's still pretty small, and I know I'll have to get him and his companion(s) a bigger tank at some point but I figure they should be fine in 20 gallons for a while.

That being said, when I do finally upgrade to maybe a 50 gallon, can I just transfer the water from the 20 gallon tank to the new one and attach the same filter? Or is it best to get the new tank setup and cycled first?

Thanks for everyone's help here, you guys have been great.
Yes, just cut to fabric off the plastic frame. Toss the frame and carbon. Put that piece of fabric in the new filter. I'm not sure it matters a great deal but I would situate it where it is the first thing the water hits when pulled through the filter.

When you upgrade your tank to a bigger one you can simply move this cycle over to the bigger tank. Since bacteria grows on everything in your tank you want to move everything from the smaller one over to the bigger one. There is no bacteria in the water but since it is the water your fish are used to move enough over to the bigger tank to fill it half way or as much as you can of the 50%. Finish filling with fresh temp matched dechlorinated water. Your water pets will just feel like they've had a big water change.
 

fishessed

thank you. any recommendations for a 50 gallon tank and stand setup? I might as well go ahead and get the bigger tank as soon as this one cycles.
 

mattgirl

thank you. any recommendations for a 50 gallon tank and stand setup? I might as well go ahead and get the bigger tank as soon as this one cycles.
I agree, go with the biggest you can. I really can't give any recommendations. I haven't bought a new tank in many years so have no idea as to what is available.

I do recommend you give this tank time to get not only cycled but also firmly established. I wouldn't want to make the move sooner than 3 or more months after the cycle is complete. If you do it sooner I suspect you will experience at least a mini-cycle in the new tank.
 

fishessed

So I installed the new aquaclear 70 about 7 hours ago. I tested the ammonia right before and it was at 1ppm. I just tested again and it's at 0, none. Is that really possible, that quickly after using the new filter?

Also, I'm a little concerned about the current. He seems okay but I can tell he has to fight the current more than he's used to. The plants are waving in the current more. He's just a little guy, maybe 2.5 inches long or less. Should I have gone with the 50 instead of the 70?
 

mattgirl

So I installed the new aquaclear 70 about 7 hours ago. I tested the ammonia right before and it was at 1ppm. I just tested again and it's at 0, none. Is that really possible, that quickly after using the new filter?

Also, I'm a little concerned about the current. He seems okay but I can tell he has to fight the current more than he's used to. The plants are waving in the current more. He's just a little guy, maybe 2.5 inches long or less. Should I have gone with the 50 instead of the 70?
Yes, it is very possible. Instead of the ammonia just hanging out in the water it is now being pulled through the filter allowing the bacteria to clean it up. I am thinking the flow can be reduced with this particular filter. If it is still a bit too much the flow can be baffled.
 

fishessed

I have it on the lowest setting and it still seems too strong. I'll not sure what you mean by baffle. How do I dothat exactly? I tried cutting a piece of just regular white filter and stuffing it in the outflow of water but it just ran right through and didn't slow the water down at all.
 

mattgirl

I have it on the lowest setting and it still seems too strong. I'll not sure what you mean by baffle. How do I dothat exactly? I tried cutting a piece of just regular white filter and stuffing it in the outflow of water but it just ran right through and didn't slow the water down at all.
Sometimes using a pre-filter sponge will help restrict the flow and it is also a good place for more bacteria. I bet you could do a site search and come up with some good ways to baffle the flow if the pre-filter sponge doesn't slow it down as much as you want it to.
 

fishessed

will do, thank your so much for so your help!
 

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