Breeding Fish With The Maximum Sized Tank A 10 Gallon 10 Gallon Tank

Discussion in 'Breeding Fish' started by Wendigoblue, Jul 23, 2015.

  1. WendigoblueWell Known MemberMember

    So, Ive been looking at all the different fish that can be bred in =/- 10 gallons. This is for a breeding project I would like to start.

    So far the fish I've found:

    ~ Pygmy Sunfish
    (1) 10 gallon - Adult tank
    (3 - 6) 1 gallon - Spawn tanks (fry will be removed very quickly)
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Fry tank (fry will be transferred to the 10 after they're big enough)

    ~ Betta albimarginata
    (1) 10 gallon with removable divider - Male/Female/Breeding tank
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Fry tank (as I've read fry don't move much, thus the 2.5 gallon is best for maximum survival rate)
    (1) 10 gallon - Growout tank (for the fry once they start to move around more and will hunt down food)
    (2) Pond Pots - Male tank and Female tank (removing the males from the growout as soon as they are noticed)

    ~ Dwarf Shell Cichlid
    (1) 10 gallon - Adult tank
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Fry tank
    (1) 10 gallon - Growout tank

    ~ Small Killifish Species
    (1) 10 gallon - Pair tank
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Spawn tank (with peat and/or spawn mops)
    (1) 10 gallon - Growout

    ~ Endler's Livebearers
    (1) 10 gallon - Adult tank
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Fry tank
    (1) Pond Pot - Growout

    ~Celestial Pearl Danios
    (1) 10 gallon - Adult tank
    (1) 2.5 gallon - Spawn tank/Fry tank
    (1) Pond Pot - Growout

    Certain hardier/wilder species will be housed outside in warmer months. If the weather is too cold the pond pots will be replaced with 10 gallons.
    Anything to add?
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
  2. The Red SeverumValued MemberMember

    Great list!

    I have been successful with a pair of German Blue Rams in a 10gal tank before!
  3. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    I could give you a list of species that I have bred in 10 gallon tanks; it would number well over 100.

    No reason to separate the male and female of Betta albimarginata in a 10 gallon breeding tank. These are not aggressive fish like Betta splendens (most Betta species aren't). Not necessary to isolate males when they sex out, either; just provide enough space, food, and water changes for the fish to grow. When a male is observed holding eggs, however, it is necessary to either isolate him until he releases, or make him spit the eggs and hatch them artificially.

    You appear to have the wrong idea about colonies. The term "Colony tank" refers to a tank where the adults breed and young are allowed to grow up with them. Contrary to popular belief, for example, a colony tank of CPD, with Java Moss and Najas(Guppy Grass) or Water Sprite, will eventually grow as a population with multiple age groups co-existing. I had a colony of CPD in a 10, they were rather prolific; usually the number of fry is initially low, but survival rates increase as more generations are born. Because of the tight spaces provided by the plants, the adults are not able to chase down fry. Eventually they get used to seeing them, and so long as they are well fed, they will ignore them. I have had colony tanks of only 5 gallons for some fairly small species, such as Boraras maculatus.

    The "breeder net" is a waste of money and is more likely to kill fish than save them. Better to put fry in their own tank. This is a pet peeve of mine for many decades, and I will always tell people to throw them away and buy another tank. Most female livebearers do not chase their young right away. There are ways to make livebearer breeding traps out of a tank that will separate her from the fry before she recovers. This is not my preferred way, but they work better and are safer than nets.
  4. WendigoblueWell Known MemberMember

    Thanks of the information! If you don't mind listing some of your favorite fish to breed in 10 gallons I would love to hear them!

    My thing for separating the male and female betta albimarginata, was that I read a thread by a breeder. S/He stated that the females could breed the male to death. For the health of the male s/he separated the male for one week, so he would stay in top condition for breeding. My other thing for separating the babies was that I also read from the same thread that the males will sometimes not color up due to the fact that the alpha betta is still in the tank. Is this true? Also keeping the male and female pair together would help a lot, is it okay to do right after spitting his last batch?

    Thats interesting about the term colony. I never knew that, but I guess I still have a lot to learn about breeding terms. Thank you for correcting me. I did correct the first post after reading your comment.

    Thank you for the info on breeder nets. I've never heard of that before, but it does make sense as in the net won't allow enough circulation or something like that. I have heard that endlers won't eat their fry as much as other fish species, but having a huge clump of moss or naja grass I would think would work to protect the fry.

    I know betta splendens can't really be easily raised in 10s unless you have a lot, but I remember you had some experience with them. I hope you don't mind me asking, if 86oF is too high for them. I've tried to find out, but it says some conflicting stuff about higher temps for bettas. I was looking, because my extra heater stays at 86oF and if thats an okay temp I was wanting to raise fry with that temp. Plus a pot pond would stay at that temp in my area.
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
  5. chromedome52Fishlore VIPMember

    I think B. splendens can survive 86, but I don't think they would thrive. Too warm for fry raising.

    Right now I have a starting colony of Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon" in a 10. I bought six adults last November, and moved them to this tank about 6 weeks ago. At last count there were 3-4 half grown young, and several very tiny recently hatched fry. There is a large raft of Riccia/Crystalwort on the surface, a great plant for fish with fry that go to the surface. I've used it with several species of Killifish and Oryzias, with great success.

    I have a pair of Peacock Gudgeons in a 10, more than adequate space. They previously shared a 10 with some Pseudomugil gertrudae females. With this species, however, I keep a 5 gallon tank and a half gallon drum bowl to pull eggs. The male has a 3 inch flower pot with a notch or a hole in the side for breeding. When I see eggs the pot is moved into the drum bowl and an airline added. (I have two or three pots to switch out whenever I pull one.) When the eggs hatch and the fry start swimming, they are moved into the 5 initially, so they don't have to go so far to chase down food. I currently have a batch born on July 15, they are already eating live bbs.

    CPD has been mentioned, but a lot of people haven't seen their little green cousin, Celestichthys erythromicron (or Danio, depending on who you believe). Similar shape, different pattern. I had a group of those going at one time, lost them to a dead mouse (great disaster story I will tell here some day).

    I've also spawned many Apistogramma in 10 gallon tanks, but again, fry have to be removed to encourage additional spawns. Most of the time they were young pairs, and were not in the 10 long enough to grow to the oversize individuals we often see in aquaria.

    Ten is adequate to condition Checker, Cherry, and Gold Barbs. Also did the dwarf Gold Barb, Pethia gelius. in a 10. Breeding groups are selected and moved to another 10 for spawning. All three can be quite prolific, and larger tanks will be required to raise any numbers of fry. Many barbs can be conditioned with both sexes together if there is no spawning substrate. The spawning tank will have mops, Java Moss, or some type of artificial spawning grass.

    Panda Corys can be spawned in a 5; I know a few Killifish hobbyists who keep them with their killies. Both species spawn in the same mops!
  6. WendigoblueWell Known MemberMember

    Thanks for all the amazing information!

    I will definitely be trying for:
    Peacock gudgeons
    Celestichthys erythromicron
    Pseudomugil furcatus (a favorite of mine)
    Microrasbora kubotai
    Boraras brigittae
    Panda cory cats
    Sundadanio axelrodi Pygmy sunfish
    Betta albimarginata
    Dwarf shell cichlid (still not sure on the species)
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  7. aquaman86Valued MemberMember

    Cherry barbs and black widow tetras are also a good choice in a 10 gal.
  8. WendigoblueWell Known MemberMember

    I've got a ten and all the other stuff already set up, just now I have to go get some fish!

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