10 Gallon Tank Betta was Lethargic and now Floating Vertically

SquidBones
  • #1
Recently my betta has become lethargic, refusing to move much or eat, and now he is floating at the top of the tank vertically and refuses to move, I’m not sure what to do for him. I’ve tried giving him a epsom salt bath to see if that would help him with pontential constipation but it had no effect on his behavior, and he’s been floating like this for about a day now. I feed him a pea but he refuses to eat, he hasn’t eaten properly in a few days now. I’m not sure what else it could be, I cleaned the tank and checked/changed the water, nothing appeared out of normal with the quality. I’ve also placed a betta leaf in the tank, not sure if it’ll help him but I’m trying anything at this rate.
Any recommendations on further steps I can do? I hate just waiting and watching.
 

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BigManAquatics
  • #2
Is he still breathing? The eyes almost have that dead look to them.
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Is he still breathing? The eyes almost have that dead look to them.
Yes, he is still alive. He always gets the dead eyes when he’s sleeping. A gentle poke to the nose and he goes back to wiggling his fins and breathing. But he refuses to not be upright or eat.
 
BigManAquatics
  • #4
Can you get a pic from a different angle? Does look kind of bloated.
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
Can you get a pic from a different angle? Does look kind of bloated.
No, he doesn’t look bloated personally.
 

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BigManAquatics
  • #6
Agreed. Must have been the original angle.
 
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deacs
  • #7
What are the water parameters looking like? And what's the water temp (can you raise it)? How long ago did you try the salt bath, and did he seem to get worse or better or stay the same with that?

I've never had luck with peas, but he doesn't look very bloated, so maybe that's not the issue. Floating vertically screams "swim bladder" but overfeeding isn't the only cause. I wonder if there's a bacterial infection going on here. Maybe (if you want to be aggressive) treat for that next, just to rule it out.
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
The water quality is good with ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite all bellow .20ppm. The water has been good like this for weeks before he started showing symptoms and there has been no sudden spike. temp wise the water is kept around or just above 80°F.
The salt bath was also about 24 hours ago by this time, and it seemed to have absolutely no effect on him, though he was certainly peaved for a half hour afterwards.
He's now resting under his rocks/plane, why'll I'm happy he can still somewhat move it doesn't really make me feel better as he's still lethargic and shows no appetite. I've also already began treating for a possible bacteria infection since the bath was a no go.
 
deacs
  • #9
The water quality is good with ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite all bellow 20ppm. The water has been good like this for weeks before he started showing symptoms and there has been no sudden spike. temp wise the water is kept around or just above 80°F.
The salt bath was also about 24 hours ago by this time, and it seemed to have absolutely no effect on him, though he was certainly peaved for a half hour afterwards.
He's now resting under his rocks/plane, why'll I'm happy he can still somewhat move it doesn't really make me feel better as he's still lethargic and shows no appetite. I've also already began treating for a possible bacteria infection since the bath was a no go.

So, ammonia should definitely be 0. When you say it's under 20ppm, do you mean a non-zero number?

When you change the water, what are you treating the water with?

Edit: Is it possible you mean ammonia is below .20ppm?
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
I treat the tank with Deer Park water treated with TopFin water conditioner, I often change about 20 percent once every two weeks, or more if the water quality readings are off. Also yes, I mean .20ppm, my ammonia test only gives me one color representing 0ppm - .20ppm so I have no way of know the precise number.
 
deacs
  • #11
Oh okay, that makes much more sense! That's probably OK then though obviously 0 is ideal. But you should continue with water changes, and maybe step them up to once a week.

It sounds like you're doing the right things. He could just be an older guy and starting to struggle. Hopefully treating for bacterial infection will help but if not maybe move on to parasite treatment next.
 
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SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Oh okay, that makes much more sense! That's probably OK then though obviously 0 is ideal. But you should continue with water changes, and maybe step them up to once a week.

It sounds like you're doing the right things. He could just be an older guy and starting to struggle. Hopefully treating for bacterial infection will help but if not maybe move on to parasite treatment next.
I certainly hope he gets better soon, I have yet to raise a betta to even two years old, despite everything I do they always seem to get sick and die. :/
 
FoldedCheese
  • #13
edit: so sorry I thought I was responding to another thread
 
evonner
  • #14
What size tank is he in? Is he alone or have tank mates? What kind of water tests do you use/brand/strips or solutions? Ammonia should always be zero and Nitrites too. Nitrates less than 20 ppm.
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
What size tank is he in? Is he alone or have tank mates? What kind of water tests do you use/brand/strips or solutions? Ammonia should always be zero and Nitrites too. Nitrates less than 20 ppm.
10 gallon (US), and he has been sharing the tank with four Corydoras, they’ve gotten along well since they’ve been adopted, no aggression towards each other.
 
evonner
  • #16
10 gallon (US), and he has been sharing the tank with four Corydoras, they’ve gotten along well since they’ve been adopted, no aggression towards each other.
ok tell me about your water testing supplies
 
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SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
ok tell me about your water testing supplies
I use a combination of strip and solution tests.
 
evonner
  • #18
I use a combination of strip and solution tests.
Do you have the API Fresh Water Master Test Kit? Strips are not a reliable source. Test solutions as I mentioned above are most accurate. And your ammonia and nitrites need to be at zero. Nitrates less than 20. Accurate testing in so important.
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
Do you have the API Fresh Water Master Test Kit? Strips are not a reliable source. Test solutions as I mentioned above are most accurate. And your ammonia and nitrites need to be at zero. Nitrates less than 20. Accurate testing in so important.
No, I use API kits but I don’t own the Master Test Kit.
 
JuDom
  • #20
We all know how stressful it can be when our fish starts acting unwell. When there isn’t an obvious answer, ruling out all possible issues is key. He doesn’t look bloated at all, your water parameters seem to be good. I think treating for potential illness is a good idea as long as you take the proper steps with WCs and filter media.

What do you have in the tank for stimulation or entertainment? Does he have a perch to rest on at the top of his tank? Are the cory’s all acting normal? How old is your betta?
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #21
We all know how stressful it can be when our fish starts acting unwell. When there isn’t an obvious answer, ruling out all possible issues is key. He doesn’t look bloated at all, your water parameters seem to be good. I think treating for potential illness is a good idea as long as you take the proper steps with WCs and filter media.

What do you have in the tank for stimulation or entertainment? Does he have a perch to rest on at the top of his tank? Are the cory’s all acting normal? How old is your betta?
I actually put aside some bobbers and lures from my fishing equipment as “toys”. Of course I cleaned them and removed the hooks from the lures. Every now and then I have them bob around and watch him observe and nip at them for a bit before I remove them. More often though I place a mirror by the wall so he can flare at his reflection for an hour or so, just so he isn’t doing nothing every day.
in regards to a perch, he really just rests anywhere, usually it’s under one of the plastic plants or in his cave, though sometimes he used the suction cups that connect the heater to the tank wall.
He was only adopted a couple months ago, I don’t know how old he was when I bought him. The corydoras are all behaving fine and show no ill signs, though I’m watching them closely for any bad signs.
Sadly my betta’s condition has worsened, I don’t believe he’ll survive the night as he’s now to weak to even fight the current of the filter, but I’m still trying. The most upsetting part is not knowing why he’s ill, one day he’s behaving fine, the next…
 
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JuDom
  • #22
I actually put aside some bobbers and lures from my fishing equipment as “toys”. Of course I cleaned them and removed the hooks from the lures. Every now and then I have them bob around and watch him observe and nip at them for a bit before I remove them. More often though I place a mirror by the wall so he can flare at his reflection for an hour or so, just so he isn’t doing nothing every day.
in regards to a perch, he really just rests anywhere, usually it’s under one of the plastic plants or in his cave, though sometimes he used the suction cups that connect the heater to the tank wall.
He was only adopted a couple months ago, I don’t know how old he was when I bought him. The corydoras are all behaving fine and show no ill signs, though I’m watching them closely for any bad signs.
Sadly my betta’s condition has worsened, I don’t believe he’ll survive the night as he’s now to weak to even fight the current of the filter, but I’m still trying. The most upsetting part is not knowing why he’s ill, one day he’s behaving fine, the next…
I understand that this is a stressful situation for both you and your betta unfortunately.
I find having a perch at the top, (they sell artificial leaves with suction cups on them designed for bettas) really helps them take a rest at the surface so they can breathe without having to support themselves.
This would be a good idea for a future betta, if this guy doesn’t make it ;(, especially if they have very long fins.
You can also adjust the flow on your filter if the current is too strong..or place something below it in the tank to cut the intensity of the flow.
I am very sorry to hear his condition has worsened however..
 
SquidBones
  • Thread Starter
  • #23
Sadly my blue marbled betta SilverSides has passed on around 3am last night, his suffering is over. I wish I was able to figure out why he was ill and save him. Thank-you to everyone who offered ideas as to how to help him. After I clean my tank I'll adopt another betta, hopefully with better luck. Though I'm open to any further ideas as to what I might of been able to do to save him, and what caused his demise.
 
JuDom
  • #24
Sadly my blue marbled betta SilverSides has passed on around 3am last night, his suffering is over. I wish I was able to figure out why he was ill and save him. Thank-you to everyone who offered ideas as to how to help him. After I clean my tank I'll adopt another betta, hopefully with better luck. Though I'm open to any further ideas as to what I might of been able to do to save him, and what caused his demise.
I’m so sorry to hear that. I’m honestly really not certain what happened with Silversides. I feel like sometimes with fish, things take a sudden turn and are out of our control..I hope your next Betta lives a long life for you. They really are such lovely fish, so easy to build a relationship with. And hard to lose. Again, I am so sorry for your loss. Good luck.
 

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