Betta Is Floating. Swim Bladder?

Discussion in 'Betta Fish' started by Reybetta, Apr 9, 2017.

  1. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    My betta that I have had for 6 months now is having bloating/floating problems after I feed him. I will only feed him one pellet and he will start floating within the day. What could be causing this? I usually give him part of a pea and then he will be better later on that day or the next day. Yesterday I fed him a soaked betta pellet and again he started to float. I decided I would fast him before giving him a pea again. This morning before feeding him the pea I saw in his tank that there was feces (normal red colored but there was some darker brown blobs) in the bottom but he is still floating. I will post a photo of him. His tank is heated to 80 degrees and due to me recycling my 5 gallon tank that he is normally in he is in a smaller one that I do 50% water changes on daily. I really have no clue what is happening to him since his floating has been recurring for about a week now.

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  2. saketValued MemberMember

    his fins look shreeded to me. is that bowl? does his belly appear to be swollen up?
    i think you should fast him for a day and give him peas. you can do a fish in cycle with the betta because they are hardy fishes and can go through it. i am doing it the same and so for no problem.
    try posting a photo of his belly.
  3. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    His fins are shredded due to a plant I had introduced to his tank which has now been removed but his fins are just taking a long time to heal. He was in the bowl temporarily until I had gotten my levels in the 5 gallon tank closer to zero. I transferred him back into it when I got home. Here are some more photos that I got this morning

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  4. saketValued MemberMember

    i think that he is stressed and his fins are realy in a very bad position. i suggest you to do a 50% water change every alternative day and try feeding him him 2 or 3 bloodworms and if he get bloated feed him peas amd fast him for a day. you realy need to pay attension to his fins use a stress coat for him.
  5. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I have been trying to get his fins under control for the past 2-3 weeks with increased water changes every other day while checking parameters but I am having no luck. They have not been getting worse since I took out the artificial plant but just have not seen any progress in the regrowth.

    unfortunately when I first noticed his fins getting a ripped appearance I looked for advice from my LFS and they told me he had fin rot. I had begun treating him for this by increasing water changes for a week with his fins only getting worse. I went back and tried to explain the situation and showed them photos which then they gave me a medication to use. I ended up using this and once I had finished the round with zero improvements that is when I actually joined this forum to try and find help and was informed it most likely was his decor which since being removed his fins have not gotten any worse. I have been doing 25% changes daily as I was advised to do. it has almost been a week and no improvements. Not really sure what I am supposed to do from here about his fins and now he has this bloating problem. Does stress coat really help for his fins and making him more comfortable?
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017
  6. saketValued MemberMember

    yes the stress coat can make him feel relieved. only watet change can help him heal what is the temperature?
  7. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I picked up the stress coat and have added it. His tank is at 80-82.
    Thanks for your help I am just hoping I can get his fins healing
  8. iamclaireValued MemberMember

    Fast him till he stops floating, and for the fins do 100% water change every other day. Do not put any kind of lighting on him. Give him a soft, hollow prefilter sponge to hide in. Use prime everyday just in case and stress coat as directed for fin regrowth. If his fins continue to disappear, especially at a rapid rate, try to put a snail, or a new decoration in there. When they get stressed or even bored some of them bite their own tails. Even a new rock will give them something to keep them busy.
  9. VortexedValued MemberMember

    I dont think stress causes him to float e.e...

    There are many reasons why he could be floating. Not enough oxygen.. internal disease.. whats your water parameters?
  10. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I fasted him for 2 days until he stopped floating and I bought flake food instead of pellets and I fed them to him today and he has not floated or even look bloated so I think the new food might have helped. So I can use prime and stress coat together? I actually have put a new live plant in and he just figured out today that he is able to lay on them and swim between the leaves. He does have a rock hiding spot that he uses in times of stress. Do I need more than one thing for him to hide in when he is stressed? I have not noticed him biting at his tail although I am at school most of the day but I will keep an eye out for that. Thank you
    Before my 50% water change this morning ammonia .25, nitrite .25 and nitrate 5

    I really think the floating may have been caused by his old food due to the fact that within 5 minutes of feeding he would be bloated and float and once fasted and there were feces present he would be fine again and then it just continued to repeat until today when I fed him the flakes.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017
  11. CindiLFishlore LegendMember

    Hi, welcome to the forum :)

    I would medicate him for his fin rot since it is not getting better. You mentioned that you treated him with something, what was it?

    Stress coat won't really help his fins much, and many people think the aloe vera isn't great for a bettas labrynth organ which I agree with. Seachem Stress Guard which is very different from API Stress coat would be a better option in the future.

    For medicine I would look for one of the following medicines that contains nitrofurazone, a great antibiotic that works well for external infections and fin rot. You can find it in API Furan 2, or Tetra Fungus Guard or Jungle Fungus Clear tabs (walmart). Ignore the names, they all have the same medicine in them.

    You mentioned you are recycling your tank, what happened to your cycle?
    I would pick up some Tetra Safe Start Plus and once your done medicating an doing tons of water changes add it to his tank to seed it with the necessary bacteria.

    Lastly, alternate his meals with frozen blood worms, you can find them in the freezer at petsmart etc. This should also help prevent floating and swim bladder issues if its due to constipation.
  12. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I used fungus cure for the fin rot before but I left the filter on and I think the medications messed up my cycle. I did not find that it helped much though. I thought it could have been the plant that was inside his tank which has now been removed. Do you know if any of the products you mentioned above are available in Canada?
  13. CindiLFishlore LegendMember

    I don't know honestly though API products are commonly available in most places (I think). Maybe check online to see what stores carry it before going out?

    What brand of fungus cure did you use?
  14. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I used API fungus cure, I have not seen furan 2 before though.

    But you do think it is fin rot for sure?
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017
  15. CindiLFishlore LegendMember

    Yeah definitely I do. I would not expect Fungus Cure to have hurt your biological cycle. Are you rinsing filter pads in tap water or throwing them out?

    You can also find nitrofurazone besides in those 3 products also in Hikari Bifuran. Its really the best medicine for fin rot.

    You could try aquarium salt first if you'd rather and then look around for nitrofurazone while trying that. You would use 1 tsp dissolved aquarium salt per (actual) gallon of water he's in. Leave him in this mixture for a good week or two, its a low level of salt and will not hurt him.

    Salt is removed with water changes so make sure when you do a 50% water change you replace the removed salt.
  16. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    I rinse the filter pads. I had tried to cure it with aquarium salt for a week before moving to medicine and it did not seem to have an effect at all as it continued to get worse. I will look for a medication that has nitrofurazone in it. Will the medicine hurt my plants? also do I need to take the filter out this time when I add the medicine?

    I have found a store that carries furan 2 but I won't be able to get it until thursday. It is not in my town and would have to get shipped to me.

    Maybe I will just do the salt until I receive the furan 2.
    Right now all the water has in it is prime and only 1ml of stress coat. Should I do a water change before adding in the salt?
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017
  17. iamclaireValued MemberMember

    No salt. And yes, stress coat and prime can be used together. As long as he has a hiding place, switch something around in his tank every now and then, that should prevent any bored biting. Mine never bit his tail when I was within view. You are very interesting to your betta. If you want to view the little guy without him realizing in, leave a single light on in his tank, darken the rest of the room. He won't be able to see you, but you will be able to watch him. Give it 20-30 minutes, and you should find out if it is trauma or bacteria causing the damage.
  18. VortexedValued MemberMember

    Stress coat may not heal him as effieciently but I think it relieves the betta so its not in as much pain.
  19. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    What are some alternatives that I can use since I do not have Furan 2 near me at the moment.
  20. iamclaireValued MemberMember

    My best advice is to leave the filter in unless you have another tank to keep uneducated water flowing through it and keeping the BB alive, it will die either way. My opinion is based on several bettas I have adopted with fin rot and trying antibiotic after antibiotic. The one thing that worked was getting King Louie his own 5.5 gallon, learning that live and frozen food, and most of all constantly clean water immediately cleared up fin rot I had been fighting for weeks. These are not brackish fish, Aquarium salt only provides relief in that is irritated the skin of the fish, stimulating it to produce more slime coat which is the fish's primary defense against pathogens. OR you can try and nurse your fish and provide him with a SUPER clean environment. This renders the salt unnecessary and considering the stress having another irritant in his tank, this is perhaps, while effective, is not the best solution. Keep him calm, don't worry about him going hungry. They can go WEEKS without eating. I also added a bag of ceramic filter media to the inside of the filter pad, and if you do go the medication route remember to replace your CARBON, not the filter. Medicating for too long, from personal experience can lead to stress, and then death.

    Also, if you are worried about the plants, they don't need running water, you can stuff them in a clear glass and place them on a windowsill. Just pick the North, West, East, or south based on how much light they need. Generally southern side of the house gets baked. North or easy get morning sun and should provide shelter from the afternoon sun, which will cook em here in Missouri in the summer.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017
  21. ReybettaValued MemberMember

    Ok thanks I will try this our for a week or so and see if I see any improvements since I do not have access to medication at the moment
  22. iamclaireValued MemberMember

    Not uneducated!!!! UNMEDICATED!

    I'm so glad you knew what I meant!
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2017